Finally got the car back last week from having the tranny go out on me during the cars maiden trip after the engen swap (only took ANOTHER 3 weeks!). Just needed a good flushing and new filter. The 7th one finally fit! But, the cel is still on for the vvt valve, P1349 code. It's the same one that was in the old engine and never had any problems with it. Same engine harness. too. Last weekend I checked the ocv filter, it's right underthe vvt valve solinoid, both are RIGHT behind the s/c and alternator. Got the filter out and it was clean and dry!? So I'm thinking that the oil tube going to the filter and the vvt valve is blocked by some dirt or something.What's the best way to clear that out? Use a oil cleaner like Auto-Rx or something? I want to try that before I have to remove the s/c just to get to the vvt valve.Car still runs great, a few power surges I'm sure is from the vvt not changing. Idles a litle rough due to the stage 2 cams and larger injectors;) . But the power is awesome on the highway! Don't have to go into boost to pass, unless I want to . In boost the car just keeps pulling. Haven't ran it all the way to redline yet. Still needs a tune. I think I've only driven it maybe 3 weeks total this summer! My mechanic is slow, but cheap and doest favors for me for free, so I can't say too much about it.
18" Enkei's & Kumho Ecsta's-------UNICHIP Eibach Sport springs----------Morroso oil pan Injen CAI & Oil cap----------Stage 2 FI cams Custom Exhaust-----------TRD Supercharger AEM alt. pulley -------JSP Carbon Fiber hood 380cc injectors----DC Sports ceramic header
Well, if it's not flowing Auto-Rx isn't going to do anything for you.... I would say try some compressed air... Get into one of the ports and blow, You just don't know where the garbage is going to go...
I don't know those internals, but in general, it's odd to replace the entire engine and have the same internal problem, when nobody else is having it. Could it be a problem with an external control? Is there some component that, if it never got the signal from the computer, would never activate and open up to let the oil flow through the dry passage?
Quote, originally posted by joatmon »I don't know those internals, but in general, it's odd to replace the entire engine and have the same internal problem, when nobody else is having it. not sure what you mean? I never had any problem like this before with the old engine. And the vvt valve in the new engine is from the old one. AND the harness is the same one that's always been in the car. I'm not sure which way the oil is flowing so it could be held up by the valve. I was looking for options I could try before I have to take off the s/c and change out hard to reach parts.
18" Enkei's & Kumho Ecsta's-------UNICHIP Eibach Sport springs----------Morroso oil pan Injen CAI & Oil cap----------Stage 2 FI cams Custom Exhaust-----------TRD Supercharger AEM alt. pulley -------JSP Carbon Fiber hood 380cc injectors----DC Sports ceramic header
Sounds like you may have an oil pressure problem.It could also be a bad solenoid,it's hard to tell.Are you getting any odd noises?You said the filter was totally dry?There is a Toyota TSB for the po1349,might be worth a look.It also may have something to do with the cam sprocket,as it notes in the TSB.
June '07 VOTM Sept '07 MOTM HCVO /HCMO The Red Devil
Quote, originally posted by Lancer »But, the cel is still on for the vvt valve, P1349 code. It's the same one that was in the old engine and never had any problems with it. Same engine harness. too. Quote, originally posted by Lancer »not sure what you mean? I never had any problem like this before with the old engine. And the vvt valve in the new engine is from the old one. AND the harness is the same one that's always been in the car. when you said you had the same CEL issue with the new engine that you had in the old engine, I thought maybe there might be some external electrical signal coming from the computer that is not correct. I thought it would be fortunate if you could find a bad wire, or a bad connection somewhere, so you wouldn't have to tear the engine apart and blow crud around the internals of the engine.