Oil change

ullbergm · Post by **ullbergm** » Fri Sep 13, 2002 9:24 pm

Could someone write up a howto on how to change your oil. I've never changed my oil by myself before..Update:Found some websites on how to change your oil:http://www.kolias.com/automotive/oil.ht ... _gn.htmAre those any good?
[Modified by ullbergm, 7:52 AM 9/14/2002]

d_m_kolb · Post by **d_m_kolb** » Sat Sep 14, 2002 1:18 am

hmm well here goes if some one can explain it better please do.First off let the engine cool down and be cool to the touch. That way you wont burn yourself off any hot engine part or from the hot filter that will have to be removed or from the hot oil. You don't have to wait if you don't want to but it's up to you.Jack the vehicle up and it would be wise to use some kind of jack stand but it's not required. DO NOT USE THE JACK THAT COMES WITH THE VEHICLE!Once the car is secure on the jack and or jack stands, slide under the vehicle with a oil filter wrench and the correc t size wrench for the oil pan. The oil filter maybe loose enough to take off with your hand but if not you'll need a oil filter wrench. There are other ways to get the oil filter off if it still wont come of with the wrench but they are very messing and I wont go into detail unless someone needs this extra info. Once the filter is off turn it upside down so the oil will drain out in the catch pan you are using.Then take loose the oil pan nut and drain the oil out of the oil pan. Once it's all drained reinstalled the nut and hand tighten. Then tighten ONLY a 1/4 turn with a wrench. You don't want to strip this.Get your new filter and apply with your finger a thin layer of fresh oil on the rubber seal that's on the filter. Make sure the old filters rubber seal is still with the old fliter. If it's not pul it off the engine block. Make sure not to cross thread the filter when installing the new one. Hand tighten. Once it's kinda snug with your hand, turn the filter 1/4 to 1/2 turns more with your hand. Your done with the filter install from there. Never use a oil filter wrench to install a new filter. The next time you go to take the filter off it wont come off. Onlt tighten oil filters with your hand. DON"T OVER TIGHTEN.Now find out how many quarts of oil your engine takes. If it takes 4 to be toitally full add 3 then check it and see where it's at. Realize the oil filter is still empty and once the engine starts it will fill the oil filter and your level will come down.Now start the engine and let it idle for about 10 seconds. Shut it off and check the level again. You'll then be able to add the remaining oil by what you read when you check the level on your dip stick wiping the dip stick everytime you take the dip stick out then putting it back in all the way and taking it out again for the reading.Start the vehicle and look under the vehicle for leaks. If no leaks and there probably wont be your all done.If I missed something or your confused about anything just ask.

NovaResource · Post by **NovaResource** » Sat Sep 14, 2002 1:31 am

quote:First off let the engine cool down and be cool to the touch. That way you wont burn yourself off any hot engine part or from the hot filter that will have to be removed or from the hot oil.Actually, it's better to change the oil when hot. Engine fully warmed uped. 2 reasons; first the oil drains quicker when warm and second, the engine when hot will better remove any contaminants in the engine. Just be careful of the hot oil when doing this.quote:Jack the vehicle up and it would be wise to use some kind of jack stand but it's not required. DO NOT USE THE JACK THAT COMES WITH THE VEHICLE!Always use good jack stands and not just a floor jack and especially not cinder blocks. Ramps are another good option. However, I've found I don't need to jack up the Vibe to get under it.

d_m_kolb · Post by **d_m_kolb** » Sat Sep 14, 2002 2:38 am

NovaResource is very right about doing the oil change when the vehicle is warm. I do it when the engine has been fully warmed up but it very easy to burn yourself on a hot engine part (Exhaust, or Cat) so be careful.

bh357 · Post by **bh357** » Tue Sep 17, 2002 12:17 am

I've changed the oil on my Vibe twice, and have never had to use a jack/stands. There is enough clearance for me to slither underneath.The oil capacities are as follows:Base/AWD (Code 8) 3.9 quartsGT (Code L) 4.8 quarts

ullbergm · Post by **ullbergm** » Mon Sep 30, 2002 12:56 am

what type of oil is it supposed to be?I've got a base vibe and im looking at the amsoil syntetic oil..Which one should i get? (??W-??)thanks,magnus

Hawke · Post by **Hawke** » Mon Sep 30, 2002 1:00 am

Check the cap or read the manual. They'll both tell you 5W-30

ullbergm · Post by **ullbergm** » Mon Sep 30, 2002 1:03 am

thanks, wife stole the Vibe for the day..

d_m_kolb · Post by **d_m_kolb** » Mon Sep 30, 2002 1:09 am

Everyones reply will be different. Research everything before you buy something. Look at different websites and try to finding testing that has been done on that product then buy what you personally feel is best and what you can afford. Also look at what it will save you money wise in the long run.Good luck with what ever you decide to go with. If you go with a synthetic oil make sure to use a oil filter that is made for synthetic oil. Don't buy a cheap filter just because it's cheap. Synthetic oil is great but if it gets contaminated from lack of good filtration it isn't doing you much good. Synthetic will last for 25,000 miles or longer if it's clean and stays clean but if you use a cheap filter it wont matter. The AMSOIL Super Duty Oil Filter (SDF) is designed to provide maximum filtration while meeting the high flow demands of modern automobiles. The AMSOIL SDF contains a special cellulose, synthetic and glass blend media that offers the best possible balance of long life, high capacity and overall efficiency.Traps Dirt Throughout Media ThicknessThe AMSOIL SDF has a lofted fiber depth-type media that traps dirt throughout its entire thickness for exceptional filtering efficiency. It keeps oil clean and free of wear-causing contaminants. The AMSOIL SDF Oil Filter provides up to 100 percent more capacity and up to 20 percent greater efficiency than other filters provide. It is ideal for use with extended oil drain intervals.Built for Rugged PerformanceThe AMSOIL SDF has a heavy-duty case of drawn steel. The case is double-crimped at the base with rolled-under seaming to withstand extreme pressure surges and road shocks.Assures Oil Flow with Relief ValveOn most filters a relief valve is provided to assure ample oil flow. It prevents oil starvation in the engine in the event the media becomes saturated.Prevents Oil Drainage During Engine ShutdownOn filter installations where the mounting is sideways or upright, dirty oil could drain out of the filter when the engine is shut off. The AMSOIL SDF has an anti-drainback valve that keeps trapped contaminants in the filter when the engine is not running.APPLICATIONAMSOIL INC. recommends changing the AMSOIL SDF according to the following guidelines.In gasoline-fueled engines using any AMSOIL motor oil except AMSOIL XL-7500 Synthetic Motor Oil, change the filter at 12,500-mile or six-month intervals. In gasoline-fueled engines using AMSOIL XL-7500 Synthetic Motor Oil, change the filter at 7,500-mile or six-month intervals.Mobile 1 makes a good synthetic oil filter and it sells for around $11 at Auto zone but in tests I have seen the Amsoil filter beats it in it's filtering ability.

Vibe Rater · Post by **Vibe Rater** » Tue Oct 01, 2002 10:20 am

quote:I've changed the oil on my Vibe twice, and have never had to use a jack/stands. There is enough clearance for me to slither underneath.Do your friends call you 'Snake'?The oil capacities are as follows:Base/AWD (Code 8) 3.9 quartsGT (Code L) 4.8 quarts

ragingfish · Post by **ragingfish** » Tue Jun 03, 2003 7:20 am

Derek:Thanks for the writeup, helped a lot!But I ran into a situation: the old filter didn't have a gasket on it. I even checked in the engine socket, nothing there. The new filter gasket was too small, and wouldn't go on.I installed the filter without a gasket, as the previous one had been.I ran the car for about 5 minutes, no leaks.Should I be concerned?

ragingfish · Post by **ragingfish** » Tue Jun 03, 2003 9:44 am

I swear I checked the filter socket...nothing was there...went in with a screwdriver in case it got pushed into a recess...nothing there but solid metal everywhere. There was without a doubt no gasket on the original filter, and now nothing on the new one.Has anyone else experienced this when changing filters?Also, greenfire said I should be changing out the drain plug each time too...anyone have the part # for that by chance?

PBFlash · Post by **PBFlash** » Tue Jun 03, 2003 11:06 am

My gasket is always stuck to the drain pan when I take my filter off. I pop it off with a screwdriver and put the new one on. quote:Also, greenfire said I should be changing out the drain plug each time too...anyone have the part # for that by chance?I have never heard of this before. Why would you change the drain plug if there's nothing wrong with it. My last car had approximately 40 oil changes before I got rid of it and it still had the original drain plug.

ragingfish · Post by **ragingfish** » Tue Jun 03, 2003 11:35 am

Ok, so now I am completely 100% confused!Some say there is no filter gasket, others say there are.Some say no need to change the drain plug, some say there is.Who can set the record straight?!?!?!?

PBFlash · Post by **PBFlash** » Tue Jun 03, 2003 12:00 pm

I bought my filters from Toyota and they all came with a new crush washer. Why not change them? If I don't change them what would I use them for?

ragingfish · Post by **ragingfish** » Tue Jun 03, 2003 12:02 pm

I didn't get a crush washer

joatmon · Post by **joatmon** » Tue Jun 03, 2003 12:12 pm

The filters I have used on the Vibe have a rubber ring that is attached to the filter, on the open side. Maybe those that thought there was no gasket are looking for some other kind of material, or some extra, separate type of gasket that must be put between the filter and the engine. If's not the same kind of gasket you would find on other engine assemblies, like for the head, oil pan, water pump, etc. More like a very thick rubber band sealing ring. It comes as part of the filter, and if you get a filter without one, take it back. It's incomplete. Every automotive oil filter I've ever used has had this rubber ring. Most references say to install the filter until you feel the gasket contact the engine, and then tighten it some more (1/4 to 3/4 turn) The filter mount thread is very coarse, and if there was no rubber ring to compress and the contact was metal on metal, you'd have to really torque that filter on to get it another half turn after contact. Would probably leak unless the metal surfaces were really well machined and matched. Sometimes, when you take the old filter off, this rubber ring will stick better to the engine than it does to the filter.. After you take off the old filter, compare it with the new filter. They should both have the rubber rings. If the old filter does not, then be sure to check where the rubber ring gasket would be when the filter is installed and if the old one is stuck there, take it off. Should pry off easily. If you leave the old rubber gasket there and put a new filter with gasket on, you'll be more likely to have it leak. Might not, but designed to be only one between the engine and the filter. The oil pan drain plug is 14 mm. I haven't noticed the crush washer that some people say you need to replace. I haven't replaced it. Would probably only worry about it if the drain plug starts to leak. Luckily, I have a garage so it's easy to tell when there are fluid leaks. When you put the drain plug back in, be sure to tighten it up enough. If it falls out, then you lose all your oil, and then maybe your engine if you don't stop in time, and you'd be SOL However, don't tighten it up so much that you strip the threads on the oil pan, then it's either a new pan or pull the old one, cut new threads and use an oversize plug. No fun either way.For oil choice, a lot of folks here will say to use synthetic oil, especially the best, which is Amsoil I haven't gone that route yet. I've heard that among the regular (fossil) oils, there are petroleum based and paraffin based oils. My recommendation is to use the same kind, regardless of what it is. My first car I didn't pay attention, bought what was on sale and when I replaced a head gasket, the block was full of big chuncks of black crusty crap. Next car I only used the same kind of oil, and when I installed a new cam, there was no crusty crap inside. Don't know if it's cause/effect, but I picked a brand of oil and will only use that one in this engine. Might not be the best, but I don't want to mix types.

PBFlash · Post by **PBFlash** » Tue Jun 03, 2003 12:13 pm

There was no gasket for the filter. It's built in. There's a rubber seal around the edge of the filter. When I bought the filters from Toyota, the guy pulled 5 new crush washers our and put one in each of the filter boxes.

ragingfish · Post by **ragingfish** » Tue Jun 03, 2003 12:17 pm

quote:There was no gasket for the filter. It's built in. There's a rubber seal around the edge of the filter. I dunno...the filter looked all metal on top...but it's definitely not leaking. I ran it for 10 minutes and not a single drop. I guess it's there. *shrug*quote:When I bought the filters from Toyota, the guy pulled 5 new crush washers our and put one in each of the filter boxes. OOOOOH...wonder if THAT'S what that washer he gave me was...cause i tried uusing that on top of the oil filter, and the center "rod" that pokes out of the engine and into the center hole of the oil filter wouldn't fit through, so i just threw it out, figuring the toyota guy didn't know what he was doing...Must've been for the DRAIN plug! ARGH!Hope I make it to the next oil change...

PBFlash · Post by **PBFlash** » Tue Jun 03, 2003 12:38 pm

Here's a pic of the filters I have. Hopefully you can see the rubber gasket.

Attached files

PBFlash · Post by **PBFlash** » Tue Jun 03, 2003 12:41 pm

Not sure if raging got the same filters I did. There are filters for the base and the XRS. They would both fit the base and GT but the XRS filters are a little longer. He should still have the rubber gasket though.

ragingfish · Post by **ragingfish** » Tue Jun 03, 2003 12:49 pm

OHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!I don't even know, it must've been there. The guy gave me a little rubber washer about a 3/4 of an inch in diameter, with a hole in the middle. I thought that sit on the center of the filter where the inlet hole is, and that's this mysterious gasket i didn't have...i didn't even look for a rubber gasket that large...guess it came out though... so he must've given me a crush washer...that has to be what that is...but, i still can't replace the old one...man, i hope to hell the old one doesn't give out on me!!!

PBFlash · Post by **PBFlash** » Tue Jun 03, 2003 12:51 pm

Now you know the little washer is for the drain plug. Maybe that is what greenfire said you should be changing everytime. I wouldn't worry about not changing it, if it's not leaking then all should be OK.

ragingfish · Post by **ragingfish** » Tue Jun 03, 2003 12:54 pm

quote:Maybe that is what greenfire said you should be changing everytime.Must be. And the kicker is, all this confusion is because I was totally wrong about that stinking washer! ROFL!Who says I can't create chaos...

ragingfish · Post by **ragingfish** » Tue Jun 03, 2003 1:17 pm

As a result of this thread, I hearby nominate myself as King of asking enough questions to create thread chaos

ragingfish · Post by **ragingfish** » Tue Jun 03, 2003 1:20 pm

Hey, why not.I was feeling left out...

ragingfish · Post by **ragingfish** » Tue Jun 03, 2003 2:06 pm

I change my mind.My title is too long.I hereby shorten it to: King of Creating Thread Chaos Much better.

joatmon · Post by **joatmon** » Tue Jun 03, 2003 9:31 pm

quote: King of Creating Thread Chaos Maybe it's because you're on Genvibe all night. Get some sleep! 8^}

ragingfish · Post by **ragingfish** » Wed Jun 04, 2003 2:21 am

Sleep?CRAP! I KNEW I was forgetting to do something!

vibenorth · Post by **vibenorth** » Thu Jun 05, 2003 2:33 am

I just wanted to add my 2 cents. I use a pair of those rubber dishwashing gloves to loosen and tighten the oil filter. The rubber gives great gripping power especially when your hands are in an awkward position.

ragingfish · Post by **ragingfish** » Thu Jun 05, 2003 3:11 am

I got a filter wrench...works like a charm...just trying to avoid the niagara oil falls as you remove the filter seems near to impossible

ragingfish · Post by **ragingfish** » Thu Jun 05, 2003 5:44 am

Mine bites down harder as I unscrew it..but then I can't get it to let go!!!

scherry2 · Post by **scherry2** » Thu Jun 05, 2003 5:56 am

I never knew changing oil could be such an ordeal.Oh No maybe I've been doing it wrong for all these years. I've changes oil in the vibe 2 times and have never received a crush washer must be a toyota thing.

ColonelPanic · Post by **ColonelPanic** » Fri Jun 06, 2003 10:07 am

quote:I've changes oil in the vibe 2 times and have never received a crush washer must be a toyota thing.Done three myself and never did anything in regards to the washer... Does anyone have a pic of one, possibly off the plug, and one on? I really don't remember seeing anything removable on my drain plug... I have heard of these mysterious washers on a number of import makes, so I know they exist...I've gotta say, the oil changes on the Vibe are far easier than anything else I've owned... Really love where they put the filter. First car I've had where I don't have to dump a ton of oil-dry on the garage floor when I'm done.

joatmon · Post by **joatmon** » Fri Jun 06, 2003 10:51 am

I like how the filter is vertical, and away from the engine block. I think every other car I've had, when you loosen the oil filter, the oil runs down the side of the engine. On this car, it just runs down the filter, and keeps the engine clean.

jlynam · Post by **jlynam** » Sat Jun 07, 2003 6:49 pm

For just over 20 bucks the dealer will change my oil, no disposal, I stay clean and it is done faster than I can do it myself, considering I have to go out buy oil and filter and take my time (worth something to me) I used to do my oil changes...back in '79 My hat is off to those who still do it themselves..just can't imagine why.

Yoda · Post by **Yoda** » Sun Jun 08, 2003 12:40 am

Regular price for an oil change is $29.99 at the dealer. Since you're comparing a "sale price" for an oil change here's some numbers from Murray this week : 4 qts oil at $0.99/quart : $3.961 oil filter at $2.99 each : $2.99Total : $6.95Also, yours doesn't include the "environmental disposal fee", which I do not pay, since Murray takes my used oil back when I buy my next case of oil. I could get full synthetic oil, a 5 micron filter, a can of fuel injector cleaner, or top off a tank of gas for the "cheap price" you're paying. Yeah, I have to get a little dirty and set aside time for it, but maybe that comes out of the time I have budgeted to post my opinion online. Don't even start with independent oil change places that say they'll do it for $12.99. They install junk and often just guess at the amount of oil that your car needs. I went to a belle tire 8 years ago and the guy put 5 quarts of oil into my 1.6L Toyota. Never been back there since. Hope that helps you understand why we "waste our time" changing our own oil.

scherry2 · Post by **scherry2** » Mon Jun 09, 2003 9:12 am

quote: My hat is off to those who still do it themselves..just can't imagine why. The same reason people buy the car and put all the accessories on themselves, the pride of ownership and the knowledge that its done right

joatmon · Post by **joatmon** » Mon Jun 09, 2003 8:30 pm

I change my own oil for a couple of reasons- I can see for myself what condition the old oil is in. Has helped me catch some problems early before in other cars.- I can make sure it's done right, and I don't have to worry about things like having the drain plug work itself out because some newbie didn't tighten it up enough. - I can be sure what type of oil and filter are used.- It makes me take the time to inspect other things in the car.- It's easier for me to work it into the schedule if I don't have to coordinate with when the oil change place is open.- It saves me a couple of bucksThe important thing is that you change it or have it changed enough to keep your engine running for a long, long time.

d_m_kolb · Post by **d_m_kolb** » Tue Jun 10, 2003 12:11 am

Just so everyone knows, looking at your oil tell you practically nothing about whats going on inside your engine or how the oil is holding up.Just because oil is dark or black doesn't all ways mean it needs to be changed.If you can see metal shavings in your oil when changing it your probably way to late to fix the problem. If you find a white milky substance in your oil it's water that's probably leaking in from the cooling system. You'll probably be to late in this case as well.If you want to know how your engine is wearing (bearings, pistons rings, cylinder walls, how your oil filter is working, how your air filter is working, how the oil additives are working or if they are depleted, what levels of corrosives and acids are at and if the additives that help combat these 2 things are holding up.) It will tell you it the oil can be left in or needs to be changed.I get my oil analysis done for $14. It's well worth the cost of knowing exactly what's going on in my engine.

joatmon · Post by **joatmon** » Tue Jun 10, 2003 2:02 am

Whatever. My first car had an oil leak, but the oil level wasn't dropping. I was, however, losing AT fluid somewhere. On that model trans, there was a vacuum downshift mechanism and the diaphram ruptured (bad not just in cars) and the engine vacuum was sucking trans fluid, and was somehow getting into the crankcase. Seeing reddish oil come out clued me in. I still look at the oil for bad things. Even if it's too late to save the engine, I want to know if the car is going to die on me. I don't claim t be able to visually analyze my oil for the things you mentioned, but for me it's still one reason I change my own oil.8^O I'm using standard (non-synthetic) oil, so for me the oil's not in there long enough to warrant an oil analysis. Need to change it about every six weeks as it is anyway.

ragingfish · Post by **ragingfish** » Tue Jun 10, 2003 3:17 am

quote:I've changes oil in the vibe 2 times and have never received a crush washer must be a toyota thing. They handed me the washer when I bought the oil filter from the Toyota dealer, but I had no idea what it was for, so I threw it out...Haven't had any leaks or any problems at all yet. My guess is it's no biggie. Just a CYA policy kinda thing, ya know?

MadBill · Post by **MadBill** » Tue Jun 10, 2003 9:41 am

Quote >Could someone write up a howto on how to change your oil. I've never changed my oil by myself before..How a woman changes the oil:1) Pull up to Jiffy Lube when the mileage reaches 3000 miles sincethe last oil change.2) Drink a cup of coffee.3) 15 minutes later, write a check and leave with a properlymaintained vehicle, keep receipt for proof.Money spent:Oil Change $20.00Coffee FreeTotal $20.00~~~~~~~~~~How a (real) man changes the oil:1) Wait until Saturday, drive to auto parts store and buy a case ofoil, filter, kitty litter, hand cleaner and a scented tree, write acheck for $50.00.2) Stop by 7-11 and buy a case of beer, write a check for 20.00, drivehome.3) Open a beer and drink it.4) Jack car up. Spend 30 minutes looking for jack stands.5) Find jack stands under kid's pedal car.6) In frustration, open another beer and drink it.7) Place drain pan under engine.8) Look for box end wrench.9) Give up and use crescent wrench.10) Unscrew drain plug.11) Drop drain plug in pan of hot oil: splash hot oil on your skin inprocess. Cuss.12) Crawl out from under car to wipe hot oil off of face and arms.Throw kitty litter on spilled oil.13) Have another beer while watching oil drain.14) Spend 30 minutes looking for oil filter wrench.15) Give up; crawl under car and hammer a screwdriver through oilfilter and twist off.16) Crawl out from under car with dripping oil filter splashing oileverywhere from holes. Cleverly hide old oil filter intrash can to avoid environmental penalties. Drink a beer.17) Buddy shows up; finish case of beer with him. Decide to finishoil change tomorrow so you can go see his new garage door opener.18) Sunday: Skip church because "I gotta finish the oil change." Dragpan full of old oil out from underneath car. Cleverly dump oil inhole in backyard instead of taking it back to Kragen to recycle.19) Throw kitty litter on oil spilled during step 18.20) Beer? No, drank it all yesterday.21) Walk to 7-11; buy beer.22) Install new oil filter making sure to apply a thin coat of oil togasket surface.23) Dump first quart of fresh oil into engine.24) Remember drain plug from step 11.25) Hurry to find drain plug in drain pan.26) Remember that the used oil is buried in a hole in the back yard,along with drain plug.27) Drink beer.28) Shovel out hole and sift oily mud for drain plug. Re-shovel oilydirt into hole. Steal sand from kids sandbox to cleverly coveroily patch of ground and avoid environmental penalties. Wash drain plugin lawnmower gas.29) Discover that first quart of fresh oil is now on the floor. Throwkitty litter on oil spill.30) Drink beer.31) Crawl under car getting kitty litter into eyes. Wipe eyes withoily rag used to clean drain plug. Slip with stupid crescentwrench tightening drain plug and bang knuckles on frame.32) Bang head on floorboards in reaction to step 31.33) Begin cussing fit.34) Throw stupid crescent wrench.35) Cuss for additional 10 minutes because wrench hit Miss December(1992) in the left (removed).36) Beer.37) Clean up hands and forehead and bandage as required to stop bloodflow.38) Beer.39) Beer.40) Dump in five fresh quarts of oil.41) Beer.42) Lower car from jack stands.43) Accidentally crush remaining case of new motor oil.44) Move car back to apply more kitty litter to fresh oil spilled duringsteps 23 - 43.45) Beer.46) Test drive car.47) Get pulled over: arrested for driving under the influence.48) Car gets impounded.49) Call loving wife, make bail.50) 12 hours later, get car from impound yard.Money spent:Parts $50.00DUI $2500.00Impound fee $75.00Bail $1500.00Beer $40.00Total-- $4165.00-- But you know the job was done right!

jlynam · Post by **jlynam** » Thu Jun 12, 2003 6:25 am

ROFLMAO!!! How true. Look at all those hidden costs !!! Just another reason to let the dealer or shop change my oil.!!

jlynam · Post by **jlynam** » Thu Jun 12, 2003 6:38 am

Like I said, my hat is off to those who do it themselves. I agree that a DIY is less money out of my wallet, but for me it is really not "cheaper" My out the door cost from the dealer is $25.95. In addition to the oil/lube, my car is inspected for any potential problems, vacuumed and washed and back on the road with me in it in 30 minutes. For the time it would take me to go buy everything, and spend an hour or more doing the job I am personally better off getting it done quickly.

johnsoax · Post by **johnsoax** » Thu Jun 12, 2003 6:49 am

To tell you the truth, the majority of the time that it takes to change my oil is how long the oil takes to come out of the car. When I change oil in my car (or the wifes) I just drive home a different way that takes 5-10 min. longer than the normal way. It takes 5 min at autozone to grab the stuff. I already have ramps, tools, oil pan, rags and such. For my car, I come home, leave the engine running, set up the ramps, drive the car up, shut the engine off, put on some coveralls, climb under the car, take out the drain plug and then walk away for about 10-15 min. Then I come back, reposition the oil pan (I have a big one) so that it is under the drain pan and the oil filter, and remove the oil filter. Then I usually go eat dinner and wait for the oil to all completely drain. After dinner I come back out, wipe down the drain pan, install the drain plug, then install the new filter. Then I put 4 qts of oil in the car. Then I drive the car off the ramps and let it sit for a few min, then I add the ~.8 qts of oil to fill'r up. Then I put all the tools away and and pour the oil into milk jugs. It costs me about 30 min including buying the oil and, and 12.95 to buy all the stuff. The thing that you give up when you have someone else do your oil change is that you really can't pick the oil and filter without the cost going up considerably.

ragingfish · Post by **ragingfish** » Thu Jun 12, 2003 7:18 am

quote:Like I said, my hat is off to those who do it themselves. I agree that a DIY is less money out of my wallet, but for me it is really not "cheaper" My out the door cost from the dealer is $25.95. In addition to the oil/lube, my car is inspected for any potential problems, vacuumed and washed and back on the road with me in it in 30 minutes. For the time it would take me to go buy everything, and spend an hour or more doing the job I am personally better off getting it done quickly. If MY dealer did all that for me, I'd let them do it too! But I just prefer knowing what's going in my car, what quality parts are getting used, and the satsifaction of knowing that either (A) it's done right, or (2) if it's done wrong, it's my damn fault. LOL!

joatmon · Post by **joatmon** » Thu Jun 12, 2003 8:32 am

quote:Then I put 4 qts of oil in the car. Then I drive the car off the ramps and let it sit for a few min, then I add the ~.8 qts of oil to fill'r up. My base model takes just under 4 qts. Does the GT take just under 5, or do you use a really big filter?

joatmon · Post by **joatmon** » Thu Jun 12, 2003 11:00 pm

I looked in the owners manual, and it says the base engine, (same for AWD) takes 3.9 qts (3.7 L) and the GT engine takes 4.8 qts (4.4L)I didn't realize (obviously, from my last post) that the GT engine took an extra quart Next time, someone just tell me to RTFM

joatmon · Post by **joatmon** » Thu Jun 12, 2003 11:05 pm

Check the dipstick, if it looks like the right level then they probably told you wrong and only put in about 4. If it's a quart high, either drain some out or go back to dealer and hurt someone.