"Dynamatting" my Doors

[skylinedrifter]

I am planning on adding some material to my doors to improve sound and minimize rattle and am looking for some advice from those of you who have done this.What I Have:I have a moderate head pushing 25 watts per channel with Pioneer speakers up front and Insignia speakers in the rear. The front channels play the full range while the rear channels are bass-heavy. I have no subs.The Plan:I will add the material to the inside of the outer door skin, the bottom of the inside of the door and on the outside of inner door frame. I will also be wrapping and securing any loose wiring I find. What I would like to know, is whether I should use Dynamat or if there is a cost-effective alternative that won't compromise quality. I'd also like to know how much material to purchase.Can anyone offer some assistance?Thanks!!

[keithvibe]

fattmat"rattle trap"80mill thick as aposed to the 50mil the dynamatis and RAAMat Ensolitei bout two rolls of the rattle trap cuz i plan on doing the entire car. the foam i bout 3yards.. should have gotten 4 to do the entire car... but 3 will be close to do most of the cars roof and doorshalf the cost I plan on doing the same thinghttp://forums.genvibe.com/zerothread?id=33904

[Sublimewind]

Something to look through.... http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/There are a lot of "depends" that go into this... Depends on how much you want to spendDepends on how much work you are willing to doDepends on the product you chose I've used Dynamat (lite, original and extreme) RAAMat BXT, Cascade Vmax, and Second Skin Daplifier ProIf I had to rate them.....1. SS Damplifier Pro2. Cascade Vmax3. RAAMat BXT4.5.6.7. DynamatThe new tech is Butyl based products, the old asphalt based product (Dynamat) can't compare to the butyl anymore... the backing plays a BIG roll, I really like the SS D-Pro because of the 4mil aluminum backing (considered a constraining layer) same goes for the Vmax (4mil) the RAAMat used a 2mil backing and I didn't like that much, didn't seem nearly as solid... The backing layer plays a key roll in keeping the "mass" from acting like a jello mold under application of sound energy, it holds it in place. My advice, buy the best you can afford, place it key areas, all of which you already mentioned, there are more, but the inner and outer skin of the door in the area of the speaker IS the best place to start... it gives the speakers something to work against.. otherwise, it's like installing a speaker into a empty coffee can... if you catch my drift... I've never worked on the Vibe with it, others her have and will be (Keithvibe) but I've done PLENTY in my Subie.... (and other cars)

[skylinedrifter]

I ordered 50 square feet of the Fatmat and got it for only $100 w/ shipping. Not a bad price at all. Now all I need to do is install the crap which looks like it is going to be a pain in the (removed). Does anyone have any installation tips? I want to apply it to all of the inside of the outer skin as well as the outside of the inner frame.Help is appreciated!

[Sublimewind]

You could have gotten 135sqft of RAAMat for just over 100$ IIRC... not 100% on that but close.. As far as install, you want to make sure the panels are CLEAN... go buy a few bottles of 99% IPA and get a "box" of paper shop towels (sams club has them cheap) and make sure you clean the surfaces really well... Some areas like the outter door skins may have a thick grease-like substance on them, you might want a few cans of carb cleaner for that... Once you have it clean, it would be a good idea if you had a roller, they sell deadener specific rolers for the job, but you might find something at Home Depot that would suffice... You can also use a dry rag and rub over the whole surface to make sure it's down... The more it sticks, the better it works.. Then in tight places like the outer door skin, cut it into 4" wide strips, makes a tons easier to get into the doors... Double it up near the speaker mount, if you have enough... both inner and outer skin, again, if you have enough... do the bulk of it, and if you have leftovers, go back and double it up in places.. A long sleve shirt will help keep the forearm cuts to a minium... You should have seen the cuts and bruses I had after doing my doors.... A good razor knife and a TON of razor blades.. buy a 100 pack.. trust me.. A nice thick sheet (or 2) of cardboard to cut on.. And watch the aluminum top layer, it can be sharp... !!! I'm not sure if that stuff is butyl based or ashfalt based, but if it's ashfalt based, you'll need a heat gun to make good and sure it sticks... (by basically melting it)