I think my '03 is dead :(

[Zeromus-X]

The other night I was heading out to a gig and the engine started knocking. I didn't notice it so much until I was almost there, at which point it was constant and sounded like you had a bicycle tire with a card in its spokes. Drove it home after the gig (probably dumb), to the shop the next day. After a $120 diagnostic I was basically told that they need to open the head because it sounds like there's a piston hitting the head, but they can't diagnose it anymore without opening it up -- which will be about $800 labor to open and seal it. And that's not counting the cost to fix whatever's wrong; that's the diagnostic. The fix could be "you need a new engine" or it could be something smaller, but that's an (removed)-ton of money.I've got about 148,000 miles on it, always used synthetic (Mobil 1), all preventative maintenance, etc... this one pretty much came out of the middle of nowhere and hit hard.Anyone had anything similar happen with theirs? It's tough to search for because usually the answer to engine knock is to use higher-grade fuel and/or keep up with oil changes... but that's definitely not the case here!

[WaveAction]

probably one of the rod connectors becoming loose..either that or you snapped a rod somehow and it's just getting worse..imo it's worth the $800 for the labour..cause it comes down to either that or..$1500 or whatever it is for a new engine

[coldmm803]

i dont know what to say cause you could end up spending the 800 and then find out you do need a new engine and be out 3k (engine + labor for putting a new one in). since you got 128k miles on it, it sounds like it served you well.do you always fill up with gas from the same place and get 87octane? when was the last time you got gas? maybe it could have been bad

[joatmon]

I don't remember anyone posting a similar issue. 150K miles isn't so much you should be expecting engine death, at least I hope not (I'm at 166K) Without taking it apart, it is hard to know what the problem might be, and $800 is at least two (removed)-tons of money just to find out, and then only as an investment into an unknown repair bill on top of that after finding out what the problem is. Too bad they can't do some sort of fiber optic plugoscopy thing to look in without having to take it all apartTough call. If you knew what the problem was, then you could decide if it was worth the cost to repair, or to be able to price out viable repair alternatives, but having to pay ATs of money just to find out enough to make the decision, that's suckage

[Zeromus-X]

Yeah, that's my biggest problem. $800 to fix? Sucks, but that's fine if it fixes it. I just don't want to dump $800 to find out it'll be another $2,000.Right now it's at my usual mechanic's place, who has really high recommendations, but I'm considering having it towed to the dealer tomorrow, figuring they'll have at least a little more experience with this particular engine. That adds on another $60 to tow it and $79 diagnostic, on top of the $120 I owe for the "diagnostic" done so far (heh).

[northvibe]

mmm timing chain? or valves clicking. is it a GT 2zz or a base model 1zz?

[Zeromus-X]

Base model. I don't think it's the chain. The knocking increases with acceleration, and if it were the chain, it'd be more of a "ticking" from what I've read at another place, whereas this is definitely a "knock".

[chris777]

How loud is the knock?I had a 4 runner throw a rod bearing and is sounded like a hammer beating on the engine.As for driving it, I think everyone that didn't already know better has ruined some vehicle or another that way, some of us more than one, but no more.I park them now if their is anything Isuspect might do harm to the engine, particularly overheating, which is what killed the 4 runner, and caused a civic to start burning oil.

[damronjr]

Quote, originally posted by Zeromus-X »Base model. I don't think it's the chain. The knocking increases with acceleration, and if it were the chain, it'd be more of a "ticking" from what I've read at another place, whereas this is definitely a "knock".Had a similar sound when my 1zz snapped a rod. Everyone thought it was top-end, ended up being a snapped rod, finally lodged in the side of the engine about 2 days later.

[ToolGuy]

Depending on how loud it is, that would determine the severity of it and how tight your cash is. If it is not too load I would do a top engine clean using the GM fluid from any GM dealer, of have it done to the engine. I would also follow it up with a bottle of Chevron Techron concentrated fuel system cleaner. Again, this all depends on the noise, I cannot hear it but sticking valves can cause a knock that increases as the engine does. A top engine clean usually fixes that. It can even be done twice if really gummed up...It may go away and buy you some more time. If your tech does not know what a top engine clean is, you can go to the dealer buy the fluid and take it to him. It is easy to do and the directions are on the can, I have done this... No special tools needed. It is called GM Top Engine Cleaner at the parts counter.

[blue_can]

About the description of the sound - do you mean it sounds like a paper card hitting the spokes. I had a similar noise on my chevy metro about 2 years ago (more like a chugging/ticking noise) and after carefully listening with a mechanics stethescope and also with paper rolled up to form a noise collection tube I concluded it was bad alternator bearings which turned out to be the case.Have you tried listening to see where the noise appears to be coming from.

[Zeromus-X]

Using a stethoscope, the mechanic I brought it to and I determined it appears to be coming primarily from the third cylinder. Looks like either the engine is coming apart, being replaced, or I'm getting a new car and selling this one for whatever I can get.

[chris777]

have you gotten a second opinion on it?or is it too bad off to drive?I had 2 or three look at my 4 runner when it threw the rod bearing. (and considering the jackhammering likely the rod)but it might give you a better idea on which option would be the most prudent choice.

[Zeromus-X]

I don't want to drive it and make things worse, but I'm gonna tow it to the Pontiac dealer (about 30 miles away...). I called the Toyota place and they said they wouldn't look at Pontiacs, even though it's a Toyota engine. Rude about it, too.