Ok, So my brother wants me to clean his car, but he will give me $100 to just get off these black spots. I really need help with this.I got pictures.1)2)3)4)5)Basically what it is, is black spots that stick out. Really really small and there are a lot of them.
Really? I didn't think claybar would get rid of it. I will try it out. But not now, It is so cold out right now. Thanks for the advice. I will take more advice.
I would try acetone......But seriously,(chant)Whelan,Whelan,Whelan(end of chant)He would tell you to use the clay bar.True fact BTW,what type of car uses that ugly yellow paint.
June '07 VOTM Sept '07 MOTM HCVO /HCMO The Red Devil
chevy cavalier. Ya, it is REALLY ugly. That is the color he wanted though... idiot... at least I will get 100 dollars out of something I was going to do to the car anyways =p
You'll need more than a claybar to get that out.... I would wash really well, then clay bar it THEN use a "pre-wax" cleaner... Then a polish, and a wax... Here is but one of the "paint cleaners" avalible... http://www.meguiars.com/?auto-...eanerThe clay will remove the physical surface contaminants the pre-wax cleaker will remove the chemical contaminants..
LOL you ready for the lesson. Gather round children it's time for class.What you have here is what appears to be spores. Is this car parked under trees most of the time? If so then that would explain it. You can pick them off with your nail but you run into the issue of leaving small scratches and like a barnacle on a boat hull, you still will have the ring of where it was.First thing is first. Wash it down with some Dawn dish detergent. This will remove the loose ones and also help to breakdown the harder more stubborn spores for easier removal. Don't use a lot of Dawn, a few drops work fine. Next, you will want to get a clay bar system. Either Clay Magic or Meguiar's sells good kits for around $10 with a lubricant spray and special fine clay. Like everyone said you will be amazed what comes off. You will work hard at it too, and when you do this you will notice a brownish green tint start to appear on the clay bar. You may want to consider two bars if the whole car is as bad as the hood. You may still have some leftover after that as well. You can do this a few ways. Either go around and get each one by hand with an applicator pad and some Meguiar's Scratch X, or Meguiar's Step 1 Paint Cleaner. Those two will work the best at removing the spore and its leftover parts. I would actually recommend doing the whole car with a Step 1 as the paint looks like it's been dulled and swirled. FYI, I am assuming you do not have a polisher wheel or are very much into detailing so I'm giving you the basic regular consumer products that work well when done by hand application and need little expertise to work with. Not flaming you, just giving you the right information for the job.At this point you can move onto a Step 2 and polish that car up, get the paint a nice deep wet look and remove the rest of the swirls. Then cover it with a Meg's Gold Class Mirror Glaze or #26 NXT Gen Tech Wax coating.Again I gave a very basic description of the process, but if you are just looking to remove the spores, then you def. need to wash, bar, and use either Scratch X on the leftovers, or Step 1 on the whole car to remove everything. And I figure once you've gone that far why not finish the process, so I added a few others.If you need anymore help, let me know, I'd be glad to give you more info. Spores are a ***** to work with, but if you remove them and put the proper coatings on the paint, they won't have any surface tension to grab onto. P.S. - most of the wax products are not meant for temps below the 40's so if you use them, be sure to be in a garage.
Thank you whelan, you are the god of detailing. I will probably do this, this weekend. But umm, while we are here, I do have a polisher wheel, but I heard I wasn't supposed to use those, because it will cause more damage due to scratches. Is this true? And what stores can I get the Meguiar's 3 step? I looked all over and couldn't find it, so my dad took me to some over priced shop and get me some like transmate. I don't really like it. =
Check out the following links of other posts I made. If you still have questions, let me know, I'll be around later tonight, may even hit up the chat later on too.Work with a G100 polisherhttp://forums.genvibe.com/zerothread?id=268555 step cyclehttp://forums.genvibe.com/zerothread?id=28821Listing of Meguiar's productshttp://forums.genvibe.com/zerothread?id=29375Fall Car Carehttp://forums.genvibe.com/zerothread?id=30331
Quote, originally posted by Kevzaz »Thank you whelan, you are the god of detailing. I will probably do this, this weekend. But umm, while we are here, I do have a polisher wheel, but I heard I wasn't supposed to use those, because it will cause more damage due to scratches. Is this true? And what stores can I get the Meguiar's 3 step? I looked all over and couldn't find it, so my dad took me to some over priced shop and get me some like transmate. I don't really like it. =Autozone, Advanced auto, Pep Boys, ect... you might not get the "full" system from one place, but if you know what you are looking for, you can mix brands... I would say that the pre-wax cleaner is going to do you the most good on that project, would you agree Whelan?
I would def. say that the Step 1 Paint Cleaner is the one that is necessary.Hit me up with whatever you got buddy, glad to help.On a side note, the 3 Step by Meguiar's is available at the places that Sub mentioned. Step 1 is the Paint Cleaner, Step 2 is the Paint Polish and Step 3 would either be the wax in the steps or Mirror Glaze or NXT Gen Tech.A comparison to these that I use are from the professional line and they go by their #'s. So #83 for scratches, swirls, and paint replenshing. #80 for light swirling and paint polishing, then the NXT #26 for wax. The thing with polishes and waxes is that you may not get rid of everything with one magical product, it just doesn't exist. Think of it like sanding. You don't just use a 1000 grit and go through 10 piece to smooth out some wood. You start with a rougher 500 or less and get all the roughness off the wood and work your way up to create a smooth finish. Same for polishes and cleaners. The first ones are typically more abrassive to remove deeper imperfections in the paint and clear coat. The next ones up are there to remove the fine swirls and defects and give the car a deep wet clean look.When I use #83, it means it is pretty serious. The first time I did the Trix I used 83 on the whole thing, then 80, then #26. Took me 21 hours just on paint, not counting all the other parts I did (glass, engine, interior, wheels, etc.) This winter I am working on getting the little things done on the car and then giving it another #83 workout.
Nah just on the side and for my fiance and me and parents occasionally.But I do charge others. Typically anywhere from $200-$500 depending on the car and what needs to be done.
It can be tough work to do it right, I used to do the same thing. Worked full time and detailed on the side. Makes my arms sore again just thinking about it.Whelan did a great job explaining everything and for what it's worth I have to agree completely with his advice.
Former owner of a 2003 Vibe GT---Great car that gave me 8 years and 83,000 miles of trouble-free service.Current owner of a 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe Limited AWD.
that looks like the stuff that comes out the paint filters at work when they don't change the filters soon enough. GM has had to pay many people for car cleaning. the stuff is like pitch.