I just got the oil changed on the car and the inspection said that there is only 4/32" left in the tread with only 28000 km on the car. Has anyone else experieced this with there car or is it just me.Before anyone questions it:Yes I drive it like it is stolen but I have had a set of BFG radial TA's on two previous vehicles and had them last 50000-80000 km.Thanks
If God didn’t want us to eat meat, why did he make the cow so slow? (Ever eaten a cheetah-burger? Nope. And you never will.)
It's a cost thingy. Most new cars come with economy-level tires from whatever tire manufacturer. The tread wear number on the sidewall is the key. A 400 will last longer than a 300, as an example, if driven the same. The BFG's may have a higher number than the Goodyear's. Our Goodyear TripleTreds have a 740 rating, 80K miles. Have 17K on them now and they look new. Rotate every 5K miles.
Quote, originally posted by djb383 »It's a cost thingy. Most new cars come with economy-level tires from whatever tire manufacturer. The tread wear number on the sidewall is the key. A 400 will last longer than a 300, as an example, if driven the same. The BFG's may have a higher number than the Goodyear's. Our Goodyear TripleTreds have a 740 rating, 80K miles. Have 17K on them now and they look new. Rotate every 5K miles. the biggest issue with the Vibe's OEM tires (GY Eagle RS-A & Contis') is that they are only lasting a 1/4 to 1/2 of their rated tread life.
I am looking at the BFG g-force sport or the Cooper Zeon 2xs. I have BFG's before on my Cavalier, Blazer and Impala and was really happy with the performance. I put them on my Cavalier and it was like driving another vehicle compared to the Michelins that were on it. The Coopers I have heard good things but have never tried them yet
If God didn’t want us to eat meat, why did he make the cow so slow? (Ever eaten a cheetah-burger? Nope. And you never will.)
I do drive hard but its not like I am spinning the tires every stop light and locking up the brakes. Powerslides are almost impossible. I just expected the tires to make it through the warranty part of the ownership. My wifes car (04 Cavalier) has the origonal tires on it. She drives just as hard as I do but the tires probably have another 3 or four years before they have to be replaced and she is at 35000 km on her car. Although I am considering putting off buying the tires until the fall since I am looking at a set of aftermarket rims. Fortunately, Newstalgia wheel has a part that you can veiw the rims before you buy them. If I do the factory rims will be winter only.
If God didn’t want us to eat meat, why did he make the cow so slow? (Ever eaten a cheetah-burger? Nope. And you never will.)
Ours have about 23000 miles on them and are less than half worn. When this topic came up before there was a pretty wide range of mileage from under 20 kmiles to over 55 kmiles.
Tire life is VERY subjective.... the ratings are even more subjective... do you feel that your car covers all of the parameters use for the tire life test they did to "baseline" there treadwear rating... most likely not.... just to many factors.... Some tires simply SUCK... nuff said.... I know money and getting value for your dollor is important, but tires are the biggest wear item on a car.... they are also, some of the cheapest wear items on your car... You can do one of 2 things, A. be concerned about crappy tire giving you less than rated performance or B. not worry about it and replace them with better when it's time, revel in the better tires performance and STILL not worry about getting rated treadwear out of them.... In short, don't fret over it to much.... Your in Sarnia (which i'll be passing through soon, going to pick up my Vibe) do you get much snow? Prolly a bunch of lake effect eh? Do you run winter tires? If not, you should consider it... I run a summer/winter combo and would never go back to No-seasion tires.... Is that a consideration?
I just noticed today that the wear bars are dangerously close to showing the tops through the tread. This means that in August when my wife and I go to MIS for the Cup race then instead of parts of the Chevelle its going to be tires for the car. Such as life. I have decided that the BFGs are going to go on the car and this should last a fairly long time based on my results with them in the past. I have considered getting winter tires but the amount of snow Sarnia gets is not enough to fork out $600 for the tires and another $1000 for summer rims. Thanks guys for your help.
If God didn’t want us to eat meat, why did he make the cow so slow? (Ever eaten a cheetah-burger? Nope. And you never will.)
Quote, originally posted by chevelle_lover »I just noticed today that the wear bars are dangerously close to showing the tops through the tread. This means that in August when my wife and I go to MIS for the Cup race then instead of parts of the Chevelle its going to be tires for the car. Such as life. I have decided that the BFGs are going to go on the car and this should last a fairly long time based on my results with them in the past. I have considered getting winter tires but the amount of snow Sarnia gets is not enough to fork out $600 for the tires and another $1000 for summer rims. Thanks guys for your help.Chevelle_lover, Why not put summer tires on your stock wheels and get steelies for winter tires? you would easily stay under 1000$ that way... I bet you could get steels local real cheap, being in Sarina, you have many different options and places to look...
Does the base vibe come with the same Eagle RS-A's the Matrix comes with, if so, check out tireracks ratings and reviews. For the cost of the tire you can save $15-20 and get something else like a Fuzion HRi. I am going with the Kumho Ecsta ASX all season tire!
I was thinking about the steelies for the winter but if I end up getting custom wheels in the future I don't want to store two sets of tires in the garage until I sell one of the sets. I already have to store a set that I have bought for the truck, the chevelle and the wifes car. You would think I own a tire store in a 24 x 24 garage. I just talked to a buddy of mine last night and he checked out the price of a set of Michelins rain guard (i think) tires for less than $80 per tire. He owns a parts store and this would be cost of the tires and balanced. We'll still see how I will go since its not the winter yet.
If God didn’t want us to eat meat, why did he make the cow so slow? (Ever eaten a cheetah-burger? Nope. And you never will.)
I went to Goodyear about the Eagle tires. The wear rating for the tires is 40000-50000 km for the tires. I am at 30000 km with 25% tread depth left meaning that the tires are wearing according to the manufacturer. I am picking up a set of five spoke rims from a dealer this month and setting them in the garage so the factory aluminum will become winter tires and the new ones will be summer but I will not have to worry about rubber till March. Thanks for your input.
If God didn’t want us to eat meat, why did he make the cow so slow? (Ever eaten a cheetah-burger? Nope. And you never will.)
Sweet deal... So your moving on to summer and winter combos... You'll be very happy you did....I would consider the Kumho SPT for a good, cheap summer tire, depending on what you want to spend... they run ~77 each for a 205/55-16 fitment and are just a great tire from all the ACTUAL reviews i read on NASIOC.com Winter tire are subjective as well, i've owned Dunlop Graspic, Bridgestone Blizzak, and Wintermaster WinterForce tires for the winters. Blizzaks were the best by far, but dry pavement performance was SCARY to say the least... best in snow, but soft like butter in warmer drier weather...and the technology used wears fast. They use a super high density closed cell FOAM for the first 3/32 of thread (I think that's the thickness) as the foam wears it opens each "cell" and that cupped edge of the open cell grips the snow... and i mean GRIPS... when i first got the tires i would take anyone out for a drive and just do a 20mph panic stop to show them HOW WELL a car COULD stop in the winter... They also make models of Blizzak that are more "performance" driven... The Wintermasters were a bigger step up in dry performance, not even close to the Blizzak in terms of snow traction (i doubt anything compairs, but there are many winter tires i haven't owned) BUT still very good in the snow, don't get me wrong. (they are "studable" if you live in a area that allows studs...Big plus)The Graspic was the worst of the bunch, using a micro nylon cord technology, they had small cord in the tread and as they would wear the cord would be exposed, increasing traction... They did "good" but not great, the tread compound was harder and slicker in the snow... more for light snow areas...
The rims that I got were origonally 190 a piece but since they were painted black and one of the rims slid out of the box and spun like a quarter there are 5 or 6 stone chips on the lip of the rim. I got them for $100 a piece. The one rim I have a buddy that knows how to buff those out. They will still be there but less noticable. I was looking at the blizzaks and probably will go with them. Since it is summer I am just going to wait until late november to purchase the tires. I will wait until March before I worry about the summer rubber.
If God didn’t want us to eat meat, why did he make the cow so slow? (Ever eaten a cheetah-burger? Nope. And you never will.)