First off, sorry if this has been covered already...but I just saw this on BITOG and it makes a lot of sense.A while back there were some discussion about the oil pan/sump size on '06 Toyota's with the 1ZZFE engine; compounding the confusion was the new, "shorter" dipstick on these engines. Well just recently somebody posted the actual Toyota TSB (03/06) referrencing the change to 5w20 oil. This makes a lot of sense now...that is, that the larger oil pan/capacity helps to cool the 20 weight oil. Thanks to Blue Goose and Friendly_Jacek for the Matrix/Corolla related comments in the before mentioned discussion.Cougar Vibe
5W20 means that there is less viscosity at warm temperatures. Should mean less resistance for motion. I would actually doubt less protection, as most oils have additives and smaller particle sizes. Also, being a little thinner, it is less likely to break down by residual stress (shear).Compensating for the temperature by providing a larger oil pan will allow the soaps and additives to remain in the oil for longer periods of time.
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Anybody here use 5w20 or a Synthetic 5w20 with positive results? AKA more MPG ??If you get more MPG with same protection as a 5w30 it might be worth it..
Thanks for the replies. I'd be interested too to see if anyone has tried it in the 03-05, and if the smaller oil pan means it's not a good idea in those years.
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Quote, originally posted by kcorona »Bump and x2 GMJAP. Interested to know if anyone's run 5w20 in their 03 or 04 and what the experience was. Just a unsubstaniated surmise but I bet 5W20 would protect our 03-05 1zzfe just fine.
I ran 5W-20 by mistake. I have a bunch of it left over from my Civic and so without checking I put it in the Trix. It drove fine for the first 1,000 miles. But I changed it after 2k cause the car seemed to be struggling a bit more. It just felt rough. When I let the oil drain is was pretty darn dark, typically when I do 5W-30 at 3k it comes out with a hint of amber but still clean. The car did not like the 20W one bit. Especially when it would get warmed up and driven for awhile, it really ran like crap. Not to mention I lost mileage. Went from 220 to 200ish. That was with the intake on. I swtiched back to stock with the extra tube removed from the airbox and am now sitting comfortably at a consistent 290+ per tank on an 05 AWD.P.S. - I use Castrol GTX dino juice non synthetic 5W-30.
Quote, originally posted by Whelan »I ran 5W-20 by mistake. I have a bunch of it left over from my Civic and so without checking I put it in the Trix. It drove fine for the first 1,000 miles. But I changed it after 2k cause the car seemed to be struggling a bit more. It just felt rough. The car did not like the 20W one bit. Especially when it would get warmed up and driven for awhile, it really ran like crap. Not to mention I lost mileage.My I ask your reasoning as to why a light weight synthetic oil would cause decreased fuel mileage and rough running vs a heavier weight dino oil? Thanks.
Im not entirely sure of the chemistry involved but if the engine is running harsher it will use more fuel.Other than that, 20W oil is thinner and lighter so it flows better at colder temperatures. The hotter it gets, the less effective it becomes in certain engines and it does not lubricate as well. A thicker 30W oil will maintain lubricity at higher temps and much better flow for smoother operation.
did a 5w20 Mobil 1 Synthetic change, these were my instant resultsCleaner startingMore PowerMaybe more MPGAdvanced Ignition Timing from high 20s to low 30sLouder engine
I'd stay with the thicker oil on a Turbo. It runs hotter and the oil is already going to be effectively thinner than in a stock vehicle. I'd probably keep a 30w for a 2zz also if you use the revs. The 20 weight gains most of its mileage during warm up which takes a lot longer than the coolant to get to temp. You're actually better protected and will see better mileage during warm up with the 20 wt. which takes 15-20 min. That's within the normal trip time or at least the greater portion of it for most drivers most of the time.
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Quote, originally posted by engineertwin2 »A good practice would be to start with a thinner oil and gradually change to thicker oil. This will compensate for worn piston seals, etc...Hummmmm, I've never seen that recommended in any owners manual or shop manual. Isn't oil a lubricant/coolant vs a sealer?