Crazy electrical issues!! HELP!

[damronjr]

OK, been having a problem here lately and was looking for some knowledge or even just guesses if that's all you got. I have been having a problem lately with my Vibe. As I had stated before, when I was driving from SD to Dallas, I noticed that when I would be on a steep incline and turned off the O/D to keep the S/C in lower boost, that after a couple of seconds the battery light would start to flicker off and on. Then after being here and driving around I noticed that 1 time when I tried to auto shift it to redline on a launch that it also did this at higher RPMs. Then, to top it all off, I was out with a guy that I met up with from MO and we were leaving his bro-in-laws place and heading back to his. The compressors came on to charge the bags from just having filled them after start-up, and the battery light came on hard. A few seconds after the compressors kicked off it went away. I have also been having problems with interference in my sub from the compressors, switches, and valves. Then to complicate things even more my mids/highs amp cuts off for no reason under varying conditions and won't come back on until it feels like it no matter what I do (i.e. turn off/on HU, remove and replace face-plate, turn off/on car, etc...)! No connections seem to be loose and the sub amp still works fine and they branch from the same power distribution block. I know for this 1 grounds and remote are givens, but can't find any problems there either. I took my car to Autozone figuring with the battery light thing that the battery was no good or going out or not fuly charging. They checked and said it was better than AOK as it is a NAPA yellow-top. They also checked the alternator as it is aftermarket and I thought might be a logical cause, and the guy said, "That is a bad-@$$ alternator!"As some of you may remember, I also had a problem with my TRD ECM when something caused a couple of wire runs on the circuit board inside the ECU-ECM adapter to fry off the board for no apparent reason. Any assistance/advice/opinions would be greatly appreciated!

[Shadow-Vibe]

I know this may sound dumb, but do you think with all the extra electrical parts that maybe you need to run another battery?

[joatmon]

looking at the electrical diagram (attachment from a 03 trix, expect it to be the same) there's not much in the circuit for the light in the combination meter. Don't know what would cause all the symptoms you have, or if they are all related to a common cause, but maybe the diagram will help. I assume that the alternator puts out a non-ground when it is charging, so either the DRL module is pulling that line low, or the alternator is, if the light comes on. or there is a short in the wire or cluster somehow. I suppose it is possible that the alternator could still be working plenty fine but have a problem with the circuit that generates the output to the light in the cluster. Only other thing I can think of is if the alternator is putting out a 12V on that signal line, but charging hte battery up high enough to get the LED to light. That could be bad. Do you have a voltmetter you can use to watch battery voltage at high RPMs?Do you see any effect on the auto headlights when the battery light starts coming on? Maybe you're pulling too many g's for the car

Attached files 015cs.pdf (36 KB) 

[damronjr]

Quote, originally posted by joatmon »Maybe you're pulling too many g's for the car This part I'm doubting! Yikes, lot here! You mentioned DRL which caught my attention first as I have disabled them using the snip method in the steering column! According to the guy at Autozone the alternator is putting out 14.3V if I recall correctly at 2k rpms. I do have a voltmeter. Might have to see what's going on there throughout the rpm range with both the alt and battery. The headlights also dim a lot when I am driving if I am not accelarating. Once I hit the gas pedal they light up quite a bit. That was another reason I thought maybe it was a battery issue. Also, when I hit my switches for the bags, a lot of times they won't work unless I hold the gas pedal down and get the rpms up a little from idle. Yet another reason I was thinking battery, but he said the battery was holding a normal charge just fine. As for needing an extra battery, I suppose it is possible, but I would think the battery would be having more issues than it is if that is the case.

[jimincalif]

A few questions:Are these symptoms consistent? IOW, can you recreate the same symptoms in the same conditions, or are they intermittent?You have an aftermarket alternator. Does it have an internal voltage regulator, or does it have a separate external voltage regulator?Do you have the specs for your alternator, something that tells you how much power it can put out at a given alternator RPM? Is the size of the alternator pulley about the same as the stock pulley?Your mid/high amp cuts out. Do you have the specs for it? Is it designed to cut out when voltage drops below a preset level? Same question for your compressor.I'm not familiar with the S/C, is it driven by the same belt that drives the alternator?Is there any evidence of belt slippage? Look for fine black dust near the pulleys.

[damronjr]

1. Are these symptoms consistent? IOW, can you recreate the same symptoms in the same conditions, or are they intermittent?NO. All appear pretty much random.2. You have an aftermarket alternator. Does it have an internal voltage regulator, or does it have a separate external voltage regulator?Not sure, I can see if I can get the info on it. It's just a rebuilt stock alternator with more coils as far as I know.3. Do you have the specs for your alternator, something that tells you how much power it can put out at a given alternator RPM? Is the size of the alternator pulley about the same as the stock pulley?The alternator pulley is the same as OEM.4. Your mid/high amp cuts out. Do you have the specs for it? Is it designed to cut out when voltage drops below a preset level? Same question for your compressor.The amp that cuts out is a JL 300.4. Not sure on the specs on it off-hand. The compressors(2) are Vaiar compressors, have to check on the size and specs.5. I'm not familiar with the S/C, is it driven by the same belt that drives the alternator?The S/C is driven by the same belt that drives everything else.6. Is there any evidence of belt slippage? Look for fine black dust near the pulleys.No evidence of slippage, no black dust crap in the engine bay.

[Petrucci914]

I'd unhook all your subs and stuff and run it for a week and see if you have the same issues. I also probably wouldn't autoshift your auto tranny.

[damronjr]

Quote, originally posted by Petrucci914 »I'd unhook all your subs and stuff and run it for a week and see if you have the same issues. I also probably wouldn't autoshift your auto tranny.Why and why?

[BlueCrush]

You have the Optima battery don't you. Could it be the deep cycle battery isn't liking the sudden surge in the electrical draws and demands of your accessories while still working fine during normal driving?

[Petrucci914]

Well, if you're having electrical issues and you have a ****load of devices that suck a ****load of electricity then it would make sense to disconnect them to see if that is the source of your problem. And autoshifting your tranny will eventually lead to you dropping your tranny. It wasn't made for it.

[jimincalif]

1. Random would imply a lose connection or something flakey in a component. 2. If you installed the alternator, you'd know if it was externally regulated, as you would have to install a regulator, so most likely internal.I think someone suggested a voltmeter. I suggest hooking one up, maybe thru the cigarette lighter outlet and keeping it in place while you drive. When you experience symtoms, hopefully it would give you an idea what is going on. Very unlikely any issues with the deep cycle battery, nothing you have would put a load on it like the starter. I'd suspect a flakey connection someplace. Note the flakey connection could be inside the alternator, though unlikely. The flickering light when driving and down-shifting doesn't make a lot of sense.Get the voltmeter going, watch what happens and post back. Good luck.

[SuperSpeedWagon]

Im with Petrucci914 Quote, originally posted by Petrucci914 »Well, if you're having electrical issues and you have a ****load of devices that suck a ****load of electricity then it would make sense to disconnect them to see if that is the source of your problem. And autoshifting your tranny will eventually lead to you dropping your tranny. It wasn't made for it.and if it is the problem I say get a diffrent battery for you compressors. Those probably suck more juice out of you battery.

[ColonelPanic]

You should be able to find a plug-in voltmeter for less than $20. Here's a pic of the one I have, disregard the iPod. That's the only pic I can think of that has the thing in it, if that gives you any idea of what to look for. LOL! I found that one at Pep Boys several years ago.http://img.photobucket.com/alb...1.jpg

[damronjr]

Quote, originally posted by BlueCrush »You have the Optima battery don't you. Could it be the deep cycle battery isn't liking the sudden surge in the electrical draws and demands of your accessories while still working fine during normal driving?No, but I have NAPA's deep cycle battery, I think it's an Orbital or something.Quote, originally posted by Petrucci914 »Well, if you're having electrical issues and you have a ****load of devices that suck a ****load of electricity then it would make sense to disconnect them to see if that is the source of your problem. And autoshifting your tranny will eventually lead to you dropping your tranny. It wasn't made for it.Well of course I know those additions are probably a cause of the problems, but being as how they are random anyways, I wouldn't know if something was still wrong or not even after unhooking them. As for the auto-tranny being manually shifted, it is made to be manually shifted or there wouldn't be an option to do that. Many people I know manually shift their auto tranny's from time to time. Quote, originally posted by jimincalif »1. Random would imply a lose connection or something flakey in a component. 2. If you installed the alternator, you'd know if it was externally regulated, as you would have to install a regulator, so most likely internal.I think someone suggested a voltmeter. I suggest hooking one up, maybe thru the cigarette lighter outlet and keeping it in place while you drive. When you experience symtoms, hopefully it would give you an idea what is going on. Very unlikely any issues with the deep cycle battery, nothing you have would put a load on it like the starter. I'd suspect a flakey connection someplace. Note the flakey connection could be inside the alternator, though unlikely. The flickering light when driving and down-shifting doesn't make a lot of sense.Get the voltmeter going, watch what happens and post back. Good luck.I have def thought about it most likely being a loose connection, just wondering where it could be. I also gave thought to the possibility of something shortinh to ground as well, especially with the amp, but couldn't find anything. If you are right about the alt (which I am thinking you are), then it is internally regulated. I have a voltmeter in the car now.Quote, originally posted by SuperSpeedWagon »Im with Petrucci914 and if it is the problem I say get a diffrent battery for you compressors. Those probably suck more juice out of you battery.This is def. being considered as well.