brake shake

[03frostygt]

I've got 53,000miles on and the steering wheel shakes when you brake. There is slight squeal as well so I plan to do the pads but what does the shake mean?

[sbaker]

Probably need to get the rotors refinished or replaced while you're at it. That should smooth out the problem.

[zionzr2]

sounds like warped rotors to meneed to replace the rotors...Nowadays the cost of resurfacing the rotors can cost as fuch as replacing them and a resurfacing will make you a little more susecptable(sp?) to warping them again.

[03frostygt]

Thats kinda what I thought. I've done pads before but never messed with rotors. Is that something I can handle or should I just take it in and have them do it all.

[nygiantzz1]

Hey, new Vibe owner here. This is one subject I can help you with, been doing my own brakes for 20+ years. If you can handle replacing the pads, you can replace the rotor. Remember to compress the piston fully before you remove the caliper. You will need every bit of space to fit the new rotor and 2 new pads. After the caliper has been removed, slide the rotor off the wheel lugs and put the new one in it's place. I have not had mine apart yet, but there might be retaining clips holding the rotors in place (look like star washers on 2 or 3 lugs) break them off w/ a flat head screwdriver and get new ones. Once the rotor is on, reinstall the caliper and pads. if you compressed the piston properly, you should not need to bleed the lines. I usually loosen the caliper bolts a few turns, slide a flat head screwdriver between the pad and piston and (gently) apply pressure toward the piston to seat it. Make sure master cylinder cap is off. If you compress it too fast, you will spit brake fluid all over the engine compartment. You will save hundreds in labor costs doing it yourself and it'e easy. Good Luck.

[binary]

Welcome to the site - that's exactly how I do it too... good write up!

[sbaker]

Just a couple other notes when you're doing this yourself.-In order to remove the brake rotor you will need to remove the bracket that the caliper mounts on to [just two additional bolts and they're easy to spot]. That was the only thing holding my caliper [no retaining clips, but I'm also not sure that I'm the first to work on the brakes on my vibe... However, it had 79,000 mi on them, the pads were only half gone, and they said Toyota on them; so my guess is that they were the originals].-Don't for get to put the cap back on the master cylinder reservoir. Pumped the brakes up after working on brakes with the cap off and ran brake fluid everywhere. Good Luck! Hope you don't have any problems!

[Atomb]

i find a good sized C clamp works perfectly for seating the piston....it applies even force so that the cylinder slides evenly.good luck!

[nygiantzz1]

You are right, a c clamp is the proper method. The screwdriver method has worked for me on every car I've done, except one. My ex wife's 1985 Dodge Daytona, I was bottoming the piston and got resistance about halfway into it. I applied a little more pressure and "crack" split the piston. Dodge used a cheap a*s plastic piston in the caliper. I went back to the parts store and bought a new caliper. The replacement had a stainless steel piston. That is why I emphasized to apply gentle pressure. I learn from my mistakes.

[TRDman]

Referencing the original post; my wheel did the same thing when new and went away after two or so weeks. I just chalked it up to a break-in problem and didn't think about it. Within the last month or so, however, it's started to do it again. I have nowhere near 53,000 miles, but is it the same sort of problem?