Possible new fix for drl and HID's. Has anyone installed a real Bi-Xenon HID kit yet?

[spyder]

Hey folks. I just received my HID kit last night and I ended up buying a 4300K Bi-Xenon kit. This is a kit with real tilting lights, not Xenon Bulb and a halogen for the hi-beams. Well, I opened it up and to my surprise the wiring setup for this kit is different from the "normal kits" that power up from the H4 wire harness. This kit only connects to one H4 wire harness. This kit has a lighting control box as well as it needs to have a direct connection to the Positive terminal on the battery and have a clean ground on the Negative terminal/grounding point. I will scan the schematic of the installation later when I get a chance but I would like to know if anyone here has installed a Bi-Xenon kit and if they have hand any problems with drl's and/or have you disabled them or not.I would appreciate anyones info on this stuff.Spyder

[mcgusto82]

what's the name of the manufacturer?

[spyder]

Hi. The manufacturer is McCulloch and the ebay seller that I bought them from was zgperformance. He is very fair and shipped quickly. packaging was great and my duties were very fair. I will most likely install the kit this weekend but I did test it and the hi beam is great and you can't hear the mechanism click from the inside of the car. as for the drl I tried it and the light comes on solid the ballast was not even warm, and the light in the was about half as warm in the headlight as compared to the silverstars on my other headlight.Spyder

[ragingfish]

Been there done that with the bi-xenon install.YOU MUST disable the DRL's. The reduced voltage of DRL mode is slowly frying your ballasts. They may act normal, and you may not see any signs of failure, but trust me, you will destroy the system if you don't disable those running lights.

[spyder]

Hey Raging. So you had the Bi-xenons with the tilt mechanism? and your kit only connnected to one harness? cuz this kit only connects to one of the two 3 pin h4 harnesses....that is why I really wonder if it is getting full power off the battery and not the h4 harness. I am just trying to make sure. And I thought that drl power will make your lights flicker, did yours show no signs of that?

[ragingfish]

Quote, originally posted by spyder »Hey Raging. So you had the Bi-xenons with the tilt mechanism? and your kit only connnected to one harness? cuz this kit only connects to one of the two 3 pin h4 harnesses....that is why I really wonder if it is getting full power off the battery and not the h4 harness. I am just trying to make sure. And I thought that drl power will make your lights flicker, did yours show no signs of that?Yes, it will only use one of the two harnesses. It only uses the stock wiring for signal power, not actual supply power. The actual runnign power comes off the battery. But still, the reduced power of DRL can screw with the relays and the ballasts. It's just smarter to disable the DRL and not take the risk.

[spyder]

Ok I hate to bug anyone again about this but here is the schematic install of my kit. I have shown and spoken with an electronics tech and he said that the ballasts and the ignitors would not be stressed or underpowered in this setup based on the schematic because of the control box which only detects on and off from the factory H4 harness. But what I would really appreciate is if there are any other Electrical guru's could varify what I have just referenced based on the pic below.Spyder

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[spyder]

Installed my HID 4300k Bi-Xenon headlights and 3000k HID fogs. Work great.Here are some pics

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[spyder]

Another Pic

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[spyder]

And another

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[spyder]

Yep again

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[spyder]

Last one

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[Mr. Poopypants]

Looks good, I will most likely be ordering my HIDs (8000K) for heads and fogs today.

[Mase]

Sorry to ressurect this topic, but there are already enough HID threads as is.With my experience, I'm leaning towards supporting spyder's theory on the drl fix via the relays. I'm gonna do some probing with the multimeter later to test this out.First I'll probe the stock harness for voltage & amperage then I'll probe the HID ballast input harness (the one coming from the battery and relay) with the drl on and connected to the relay.I'm predicting that the stock harness will read ~8v while the relayed harness will read ~12-13v even with the drl on. This is because the 8v drl input will close the relay and the relay will provide the 12v to the ballast.Quote, originally posted by spyder »Ok I hate to bug anyone again about this but here is the schematic install of my kit. I have shown and spoken with an electronics tech and he said that the ballasts and the ignitors would not be stressed or underpowered in this setup based on the schematic because of the control box which only detects on and off from the factory H4 harness. But what I would really appreciate is if there are any other Electrical guru's could varify what I have just referenced based on the pic below.Spyder

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[mcgusto82]

if the DRL has a seperate trigger wire. why not send that trigger to the fog lights. it's better than to completely loose DRL. i know i like it.then again. i don't know if this possible. i do think the light harness has a 3 wires.

[Mase]

my lights have only 2 wires...i guess vibes may have 3 since they have hi/lo in the same bulb, right?I finished the testing and the drl reads between 8.5v-9.2v. With the headlights on, it reads between 13v-14v.I tried activating the relay with the drl current but it wasn't powerful enough to flip the relay. The relay just spazzed out.I guess it really doesn't work even with the provided relays. I wonder if there are any relays with a higher tolerance for current drops. I bet one of those would work.

[spyder]

Hey folks. Well I have had my Bi-Xenons installed for over a month now and I have not had any problems. Again I think because the bi-xenon harness is different to the hi-lo harness setup, it is possible to just leave the drl wires alone. Remember, that in my setup, you only connect the factory h4 harness on the battery-side to the HID kit. The other harness is left disconnected. Therefore if the one harness is really powering the hid it would defininetly be underpowers. I have not had any flickering or any funny activity with my hid at all. I have let them run for over an hour while driving. I have felt the headlight housing, the ignitors and the ballasts for increase heat and they all run cool. Matter of fact the headlights run cooler than my silverstars did.So if any of you are interested in HID's and you don't want to fiddle with the drl wires. Get a real Bi-xenon kit where only uses on bulb and gives hi and low.Cheers!Spyder

[Pawel]

spyder...i just checked their zgperformance ebay store and they only offer the hid low/halogen high kits. where did you see your kit?

[spyder]

Just contact Pete directly and he will give sell you the Bi-xenons. I told him about that I belong to a car owners group and he said it was fine to post his email address for it so there you go.His name is Peteemail: pliao33@hotmail.comhope this helps and as for the shipping...he uses ups so if you are in Canada (like me) you will be hit with duties and brokerage fees I still found his stuff to be a good deal.Hope this helpsAlfredaka Spyder