AC/Recirc backlight mod

[GMJAP]

This was one of the first things I did with the Vibe after I got it. (So I thought it might be appropriate to finally post for my 1000th post. (Holy Cow!)- as my first post was inquiring about changing the dash light colors) I found the "redness" of the dash backlighting a bit overwhelming, and I originally wanted to change most of the center dash backlighting to blue. However, after messing around with the HVAC controls backlighting for a while, I realized that was difficult enough to be practically impossible. So I settled for changing the AC and ReCirc buttons' backlight to blue, using a couple blue LEDs.I'm actually glad the HVAC thing didn't work out; I really like the way it is now. The blue buttons break up the red enough to make it interesting, but it still keeps the red theme. I wasn't diligent enough at the time to take pictures of the process, and I finally just got around to taking a pic of the results. Hard to get a good pic, but here it is:

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[northvibe]

did u just replace the red ones or totally redo it?

[ragingfish]

Dude, that looks awesome!

[mcgusto82]

what exactly was the reason you gave up on the HVAC lighting?

[GMJAP]

Quote, originally posted by northvibe »did u just replace the red ones or totally redo it?The switches have an incandescent bulb with an orange-red sleeve over it to give it the color. I replaced that with a couple blue LEDs. (The switches get light from either side of the bulb, and LEDs don't give off much light on the side. So I had one facing the AC switch and one facing the Recirc)Quote, originally posted by ragingfish »Dude, that looks awesome!Thanks!Quote, originally posted by mcgusto82 »what exactly was the reason you gave up on the HVAC lighting?The HVAC panel is a clear plastic "sticker". It is painted on the back side with an opaque silver paint, except for the graphics. A translucent white paint is then painted over the graphics areas (so they look white from the front in daylight) and then a transparent red paint is painted over the back of that. This is what makes it red when lit from behind. Then there is more white over the red in some parts, to even out the light (some parts get lit brighter by the bulbs than others.) The bulbs themselves are plain white.There is also a thick layer of adhesive over the whole back, so it sticks to the platic trim behind it.To try to change the color involves removing the adhesive behind the graphics and attempting to sand off the red paint without removing the layer of white and silver underneath. This is especially difficult since the silver paint is pretty thick, so the graphics are shallow "grooves" filled with white and red paint. Then you'd have to put some blue (or other color) translucent paint on, or change the bulb color.I was never able to get all the red out of the grooves without scratching or over-thinning the white/silver paint coats. If you are exceedingly patient and meticulous, you might possibly succeed but it is extremely difficult.

[ZubenElGenubi]

That looks really nice.Now, OT: What the heck does "D1 T1" mean on your radio?

[drunkenmaxx]

Quote, originally posted by ZubenElGenubi »That looks really nice.Now, OT: What the heck does "D1 T1" mean on your radio?prob has the 6 disk changer; disk 1, track 1(only a guess, i don't know for sure)

[GMJAP]

Quote, originally posted by ZubenElGenubi »That looks really nice.Now, OT: What the heck does "D1 T1" mean on your radio?Good guess from Drunken, but I don't have the changer. It's from the AUX2CAR - it pretends to be a changer on the radio bus to allow it to be selected and input the audio. "D1 T1" is what the display shows when it's selected. That's also why it has the changer icon next to the disc icon above the 'T1'.

[NascarXprt]

how hard was it to get it all installed? and how much was the lights.

[GMJAP]

Quote, originally posted by NascarXprt »how hard was it to get it all installed? and how much was the lights.It wasn't very hard, but handiness with a soldering iron makes it much better. It's a lot of working with small parts, which can be difficult.I used two blue LEDs and 2 resistors. The parts are dirt cheap, you'll pay more for shipping them. (Although you could probably find something similar at Radio Shack)The LEDs are size T1-3/4 5mm and can be gotten here:http://www.mouser.com/index.cf...63804The resistors are 1/4 Watt (don't get less!), 450 to 500 Ohms range. You can get them from the same place:http://www.mouser.com/index.cf...66006You have to remove the radio trim plate, remove the switch block from it (no screws, just tabs), then pop off the "circuit" side of the switch block (again, tabs. Use a small thin screwdriver to pry it.)Be CAREFUL when you pop the block apart. The little metal contacts that are part of the switch aren't attached to anything and can fall off. There is a lubricant goo stuff inside too, so be careful not to touch this much or get crap in it. If the contacts fall off just put them back on the moving switch part.There is a single bulb with an orange sleeve inside. It has a bayonet-style plastic base - just remove it. Then you have to put in the resistors and LEDs to the two contacts (12V and GND) that the bulb connected to. Below is a wiring diagram.Since LEDs are designed to focus the light forward, you need two facing to the sides to get enough light for each switch. There's not enough light coming off each side of a single LED. When the switch block is together the bulb/LEDs are in a little channel that goes off on either side to each button. See below.Sorry I don't have any pics, esp to show which bulb contact is + and which is -. If you hook the LEDs up backwards they won't light. Maybe one of these days.

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[NascarXprt]

where did you ground it?and where did you get the 12v from?

[NascarXprt]

I'll try to post pics of the install if at all possible.

[ColonelPanic]

That's pretty cool looking. If I would have known those lights were replacable, I would have taken matters into my own hands last year when the lights in mine went out. They ended up replacing the whole switch assembly for lack of illumination.I wish I could have had some luck with LED's down around the HVAC knobs themselves, as I have absotively no lighting there now. Very cool project. We forgive you for going a year or whatever without showing us.

[GMJAP]

Quote, originally posted by NascarXprt »where did you ground it?and where did you get the 12v from?The bulb is (was) connected between ground and a switched +12V (Actually the output of the dimmer switch - nominally around 12V)This is the "Bulb 12V" and "Bulb Ground" I was talking about. The LED circuit is connected between these connections where the bulb used to be.Quote, originally posted by ColonelPanic »Very cool project. We forgive you for going a year or whatever without showing us. Thanks! You guys are all

[NascarXprt]

if you used any wire what size wasit?

[GMJAP]

Quote, originally posted by NascarXprt »if you used any wire what size wasit?It's so small and tight quarters I didn't need any wire - the leads on the resistors and LEDs were more than long enough. I would suggest that you either get some small diameter shrink wrap tubing or some insulation stripped off a larger diameter wire to cover either the power or ground leads so they don't accidently short together.If you do use wire, any size will do. It doesn't use enough current to dictate any particular size. (The resistors need to be 1/4 Watt though cause they drop a lot of voltage)

[NascarXprt]

sorry for aking all of those ?'s. but when i asked those ?'s i had the part infront of me all apart trying to figure out how you did it. and im slowly figuring it out but still not 100% sure how you got there.

[GMJAP]

Okay - Since at least NascarXprt is going to try this, I redid it taking pictures to put together a step-by-step.Since I prefer all my mods to be "reversible", I re-used the plastic base of the original light bulb and hooked up the LEDs through that. However, you might find this easier if you just solder wires to the +12V and GND metal areas (see how-to) where the bulb base goes.Also, I said I didn't use any wire above, but I did this time as it made it somewhat easier.I broke up the How-To into three parts: (PS- I should add that I originally did this mod on a junkyard switch block. I was nervous about tearing up my original block since I was figuring it all out at the time. I've been wanting to do the mod on my original switch block and put that back in Vibe, cause the take-out one has a broken recirc cable clip and is a little banged up from my repeatedly taking it apart I as tried several things before settling on the method below.So, with this, my original is now modded and back in the Vibe. )PPS - Sorry some of the pics are crappy. they looked okay on the 1" camera screen PART I

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[GMJAP]

PART II

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[GMJAP]

PART III

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[NascarXprt]

thank you very much it helps trumendously. i think i am more of a visual person than text. oh and sorry bout all of those guestions, it was just a very cool little mod and i really love it. Great job on the how-to GMJAP.

[binary]

Freakin' cool mod - thanks for the how-tos!

[NascarXprt]

with the rear defroster lights all they are is just plasic sleves to so you can do the same thing to em to just about.