Need electrical info for Defroster switch and wires for remote starter

[the_nite_owl]

Hi All,First, does anyone have a schematic of the electrical for the defroster switch? I am about to begin wiring in heated mirrors.I figured I would tie a relay into the dash switch to run another power line to the mirrors.It sounds though as if the switch is already triggering a relay for the rear defroster as I can hear it click somewhere behind the instrument cluster.Also, I am about to install my remote starter/alarm system.Any hints from you experts out there on the best location in the Vibe to pick up some of the wires?Any shortcuts for connecting to things like the horn, lights, etc so that they can be connected under the dash rather than having to run lines out to the front of the car?Any hint where the tach line is at the ECU? I have the wire colors but no hint on an AWD 2005 where on the ECU it would be coming from.For wires that DO need to be run through to the engine compartment where is the best place to feed them through?Any suggestions on best place to mount the control box?Best place to mount the siren?Hopefully those who have done and learned can give me the pointers to make the job easier. The less of the car I have to pull apart to get to what I need the better the project will go. Thanks in advance and I will be putting together a How-To for converting to heated mirrors. All I have to do now is figure out where to pull power from and where to hook up the relay for that power line and run it to the mirrors.

[satur9]

i didnt installed my alarm myself but i watch the guy. my alarm is behind the driver side vent, mirror controls.just pop that piece off.most of thewires were near there and the driver side kick panel theres a big harness under there.. and you can poke through the rubber around the harness under the steering wheel with a cut piece of wire hanger with the wires taped to it. thats how ive seen it done many times.i did it for my amp wires also.

[joatmon]

Quote, originally posted by the_nite_owl »Hi All,First, does anyone have a schematic of the electrical for the defroster switch? here is one from a 2003, I expect the 2005 is identical or at least identical enough.Interesting, it looks like there is a relay in line to prevent using the rear wiper or rear window defroster if the hatch glass is open. Makes sense I guess, but since the connections are in the bottom of the glass and it would all be disconnected if the glass was open, I don't see why you'd need a "disable on glass open" relay.

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[the_nite_owl]

Yes, an intersting setup. I think they made it a bit more complex than it needed to be though. Too many points of failure.HEY!On the starter kill/anti-grind I assume what has to happen is that the ignition wire is cut with one side running into the relay and the other side of the relay going back to the other cut side of the igniton?The problem with systems that are supposed to be dealer installed is they do not contain a lot of detail in the instructions. I assume that the pre-wired relay is a NC setup that breaks connection when it gets a signal from the brain module.Yeah, I am sure that's it. Articulating it always makes it clearer in my mind though. Necessary thought process. Quote, originally posted by joatmon »here is one from a 2003, I expect the 2005 is identical or at least identical enough.Interesting, it looks like there is a relay in line to prevent using the rear wiper or rear window defroster if the hatch glass is open. Makes sense I guess, but since the connections are in the bottom of the glass and it would all be disconnected if the glass was open, I don't see why you'd need a "disable on glass open" relay.

[the_nite_owl]

Took me a while to figure out what you meant but it makes sense now. For some reason I always picture the mirror controls on the door panel cause all my previous cars had them there. Until I was actually LOOKING at it I did not get the idea of where it was. Looks to be a lot of space there. I am quite pleased with the layout of the Vibe to be able to get in and wire stuff. There is ROOM to put the box and ROOM to work. And under the hood is just so cleanly laid out I can do what needs to be done without being a circus contortionist.Quote, originally posted by satur9 »i didnt installed my alarm myself but i watch the guy. my alarm is behind the driver side vent, mirror controls.just pop that piece off.most of thewires were near there and the driver side kick panel theres a big harness under there.. and you can poke through the rubber around the harness under the steering wheel with a cut piece of wire hanger with the wires taped to it. thats how ive seen it done many times.i did it for my amp wires also.

[the_nite_owl]

Can anyone give me a clue where to find the tach wire on the ECU? Or even what the ECU box looks like? There appear to be a number of possibilities behind the glove box and lots of bundles of wires. I can start looking for the right color wire but with so many wires I worry there might be duplicates and I get the wrong one. We need to put together an alarm/remote starter How-To that shows the best locations to pick up every possible wire needed, where to run wires through the firewall, where to place the siren and how to route it's wires under the hood, etc.

[the_nite_owl]

I could not tell for certain from that diagram what the polarity was for the wiring. Guess I will just pop the switch and test it.Any idea where the relay it goes to is located? I could not find anyting definitive. I would like to tie my own relay into the switched side of the existing relay and use that to drive another 12v line for the heated mirrors.Any suggestions on where to pick up power for the mirrors?It looks like I am going to need a 30amp fuse and it's not likely I can use the same 12v line the defroster is using without blowing fuses.Any room on the fuse panel to add a line? Safe to tap a line from the battery to the fuse box? Or will I need to run a new line from the battery just for this purpose?I have not looked everything over yet so I may answer some of these questions myself as I go but there is a lot to do and if anyone has helpful info they can give I would appreciate it. Quote, originally posted by joatmon »here is one from a 2003, I expect the 2005 is identical or at least identical enough.Interesting, it looks like there is a relay in line to prevent using the rear wiper or rear window defroster if the hatch glass is open. Makes sense I guess, but since the connections are in the bottom of the glass and it would all be disconnected if the glass was open, I don't see why you'd need a "disable on glass open" relay.

[joatmon]

The diagram shows three wires on the defogger switchPin 2 is blue, and it is +12V (when the hatch is closed and the ignition is on) THis is power into the defogger switchPin 3 is White with a black stripe. This is ground. or 0VPin 6 is Black, this is the switch output. When the switch is on, it provides a ground as output. When the switch is off, it either provides 12V or an open circuit, not sure, but my guess is that when that transistor is turned off, no current flows that way, an none is going to flow the wrong way through the diode, and the light bulb acts a a resistor, so I'd guess you would measure 12V on pin 6 when the switch is off, and something less than a volt when the switch was on.So the existing defogger relay is normally open with a reasonable steady 12V on one side of the coil. The switch puts out a ground to energize the relay and apply 12V to the defoggerIf I were going to hook up another relay to control the mirror heaters, I would do something similar to what they did with the defogger relay. Connect the relay coil to the wires coming off pins 2 and 6 of the defogger switch. The defogger relay is on the fuse block under the left sid of the dash, on the fuse side, there should be three relays in a row, it is the one in the middle. There are relays on the top side of that fuse block also, but the defogger relay is facing the floor of the car. That is a tough place to access and do work, that's why I'd pick up the on/off signal from the wires at the defogger switch.I do not know where to tie in another 30A circuit. Do you know how much current the mirror heaters will draw?As far as the ECU goes, there is a metal box more or less beneath the glove compartment. http://forums.genvibe.com/zerothread?id=1156 has links to a downloadable matrix service manual, but I am not sure how exactly the 2003 matrix matches the 2005 vibe. Does a really good match to my 2003 Vibe.

[the_nite_owl]

Joatman, did I read in another thread that you do professional installs of alarms/remote starters?I am having an odd problem with this install and wondered if you had insight to it.First, I have not completed the entire installation. I have connections all of the power/ground ignition wires so and plugged in the brain to test if everything was fine so far.All that is not connected are the alarm portions, power locks, door and brake sensors.This is the Compustar 2WSSA two way remote starter/alarm.The relevant pinouts are as follows:1

[joatmon]

Quote, originally posted by the_nite_owl »Joatman, did I read in another thread that you do professional installs of alarms/remote starters?not me, I have actually never had a car with an alarm, and it's pretty rural where I live, no real need for one. There have been a few times where I have come home to find I left the garage door open, nothing missing, even though you can see it from the road. It's one of the reasons why I keep living where I do, and put up with a long commute.I suspect you are thinking of Jahntassa. I don't rememberr if he installs them professionally, but a search for posts (not threads) created by Jahntassa containing the word " alarm" yields lots of posts.

[the_nite_owl]

Any insight into this wiring problem?I have connected up the ignition wires, ground and Parking Light wire.I have not hooked up any of the sensors, alarm wiring, brake sensor or power locks yet. I figured these wires alone should be enough to test and ensure things are working correctly right now.When I plug in the brain module the parking lights come on and all accessories are engaged though I seem to have everything setup correctly.Question: There are two 12v constants sources on the ignition switch, one on a 30amp fuse one on a 10amp fuse. Is it necessary to pull one ignition voltage from one of those constants and the second igntion from the other or can they both be combined on the 30amp?Any reason why they MUST be separate? And if they must be separated, should the 30amp be igntion 1 or igntion 2?As far as the brain module, it pulls both the modules power and igntion 1's power from one line and the second ignition from the other.Could pulling power for the module, igntion 1 and igniton2 (which is sent through a relay) cause the problems I am having?Time to quit for the night and try again in the morning. *Sigh*

[the_nite_owl]

Sorry, while typing that post I hit a wrong key causing it to post before I finished.Yes, it probably was Jahntassa I was thinking of.Quote, originally posted by joatmon »not me, I have actually never had a car with an alarm, and it's pretty rural where I live, no real need for one. There have been a few times where I have come home to find I left the garage door open, nothing missing, even though you can see it from the road. It's one of the reasons why I keep living where I do, and put up with a long commute.I suspect you are thinking of Jahntassa. I don't rememberr if he installs them professionally, but a search for posts (not threads) created by Jahntassa containing the word " alarm" yields lots of posts.

[Jahntassa]

Was it you I sent the instructions to the other day? Hm..Tach is easy. Don't bother with the ECU, way too much of a pain. Run the tach wire into the engine bay and hook it up to one of your fuel injectors. Every injector has two wires on it, and one of the wires matches colors with the other injectors. Pick the wire that is DIFFERENT on each injector and hook up your tach sense wire to that. You only need to hook it up to one. Then make sure you 'teach' the remote start the tach.If you have the hoodpin hooked up, it won't start. And I'd reccomend hooking up at least one of the safties (At least the brake switch) before you try starting it, just so you can shut it down quickly.You probably have two 12v constants going into the remote start, right? If so, you can either split them up on the 30a and 10a, or combine them both on the 30a. The RS doesn't pull much power, but it -does- substitute for the keyswitch, and who knows how much current is going through that thing.If it has an alarm, it's probably going off as soon as you apply power, make sure the remotes are programmed and disarm it.Best place to run wires through is the main wiring gromit up above the gas pedal.Mount the siren anywhere you can find space. Up on the front passenger side is usually pretty empty.Anti-grind has to do with the tach wire. If it senses the car is running, it won't try to start.Starter kill will cut the starter wire so you can't start with the key. Do NOT CUT the ignition wire, only the starter wire in the ignition harness! Then one side of the relay goes one way, and the other goes the other way. Make sure the starter wire coming off the remote start is on the side of the starter-kill going toward the engine. The starter-kill will be engaged during remote start, and it'd be kinda pointless to kill the remote start feed.Any specific questions feel free to IM or email me. I haven't been checking genvibe a lot recently..

[the_nite_owl]

Sorry, while typing that post I hit a wrong key causing it to post before I finished.Yes, it probably was Jahntassa I was thinking of.Quote, originally posted by joatmon »not me, I have actually never had a car with an alarm, and it's pretty rural where I live, no real need for one. There have been a few times where I have come home to find I left the garage door open, nothing missing, even though you can see it from the road. It's one of the reasons why I keep living where I do, and put up with a long commute.I suspect you are thinking of Jahntassa. I don't rememberr if he installs them professionally, but a search for posts (not threads) created by Jahntassa containing the word " alarm" yields lots of posts.

[the_nite_owl]

Instructions for what?I just bought this Compustar on eBay and have been fighting to get it installed. It turns out I had gotten the wiring hooked up correctly but the brain unit is hung up. As soon as power is applied to the brain it immediately opens up output to the Ignition 1 line so lights on the dash come on. I have to send it back in for reprogramming.The tech guy mentioned something about them hosing up if the power was hooked up before the ground wire and also said something about a bug in the chip and they sometimes had to be reprogrammed.Since I had the whole ignition harness hooked up including power and ground when I plugged it in I lean towards the problem being the brain.Hopefully I will get a replacement or this one re-programmed and back in a few days so I can complete the install this weekend.Is the wire on the ECU too difficult to get to or something? I have the glove box out already and will scout out the wire. If it's better off connected to the injector I will run it out there prefer to keep extra wiring under the hood to a minimum unless absolutely necessary.Of course I am not going to jump through hoops to make it work at the ECU if I can save a lot of effort going to the injector. In this case anti-grind and starter lockout are the same thing. They just referenced it with two different phrases but it is just the normally closed relay connected to the starter line and when the car starts and is running the brain sends out a ground signal to throw the relay and prevent any attempts to crank it over.I split the two 12v constants up, the one that drives the accessories is on the 30amp and the other is on the 10. I metered out ignition switch to see which way it was breaking up the connections and that is how they have it set up so I followed that same thought with the compustar.I have not hooked up any of the alarm wiring yet or any sensors.Once I hooked up the ignition wiring I wanted to test functionality and then found that the brain was powering up the ignition constantly instead of just after receiving a signal to start. I went over the wiring many times trying to figure out what I had done wrong and finally just disconnected the brain and gave it a power and ground with no other connections and I could hear the relay click sending power out the ingition 1 wire and confirmed with my meter. So the whole time I was banging my head it was actually the module misbehaving.Thanks for all the info. I guess I should start hooking up the rest of the wires while waiting for the brain replacement so I will be ahead of the game.I have to run a wire from the battery to power the heated mirrors I am putting in but have not figured out how much current draw they have yet. I know my meter can do it but I have not seen the manual for it in about 20 years. Unfortunately I think my meter only reads up to 10amps though. I will test each mirror separately and determine how heavy a wire and fuse I need and then hook it all up to a relay off the defroster switch.Quote, originally posted by Jahntassa »Was it you I sent the instructions to the other day? Hm..Tach is easy. Don't bother with the ECU, way too much of a pain. Run the tach wire into the engine bay and hook it up to one of your fuel injectors. Every injector has two wires on it, and one of the wires matches colors with the other injectors. Pick the wire that is DIFFERENT on each injector and hook up your tach sense wire to that. You only need to hook it up to one. Then make sure you 'teach' the remote start the tach.If you have the hoodpin hooked up, it won't start. And I'd reccomend hooking up at least one of the safties (At least the brake switch) before you try starting it, just so you can shut it down quickly.You probably have two 12v constants going into the remote start, right? If so, you can either split them up on the 30a and 10a, or combine them both on the 30a. The RS doesn't pull much power, but it -does- substitute for the keyswitch, and who knows how much current is going through that thing.If it has an alarm, it's probably going off as soon as you apply power, make sure the remotes are programmed and disarm it.Best place to run wires through is the main wiring gromit up above the gas pedal.Mount the siren anywhere you can find space. Up on the front passenger side is usually pretty empty.Anti-grind has to do with the tach wire. If it senses the car is running, it won't try to start.Starter kill will cut the starter wire so you can't start with the key. Do NOT CUT the ignition wire, only the starter wire in the ignition harness! Then one side of the relay goes one way, and the other goes the other way. Make sure the starter wire coming off the remote start is on the side of the starter-kill going toward the engine. The starter-kill will be engaged during remote start, and it'd be kinda pointless to kill the remote start feed.Any specific questions feel free to IM or email me. I haven't been checking genvibe a lot recently..

[the_nite_owl]

Instructions for what?I just bought this Compustar on eBay and have been fighting to get it installed. It turns out I had gotten the wiring hooked up correctly but the brain unit is hung up. As soon as power is applied to the brain it immediately opens up output to the Ignition 1 line so lights on the dash come on. I have to send it back in for reprogramming.The tech guy mentioned something about them hosing up if the power was hooked up before the ground wire and also said something about a bug in the chip and they sometimes had to be reprogrammed.Since I had the whole ignition harness hooked up including power and ground when I plugged it in I lean towards the problem being the brain.Hopefully I will get a replacement or this one re-programmed and back in a few days so I can complete the install this weekend.Is the wire on the ECU too difficult to get to or something? I have the glove box out already and will scout out the wire. If it's better off connected to the injector I will run it out there prefer to keep extra wiring under the hood to a minimum unless absolutely necessary.Of course I am not going to jump through hoops to make it work at the ECU if I can save a lot of effort going to the injector. In this case anti-grind and starter lockout are the same thing. They just referenced it with two different phrases but it is just the normally closed relay connected to the starter line and when the car starts and is running the brain sends out a ground signal to throw the relay and prevent any attempts to crank it over.I split the two 12v constants up, the one that drives the accessories is on the 30amp and the other is on the 10. I metered out ignition switch to see which way it was breaking up the connections and that is how they have it set up so I followed that same thought with the compustar.I have not hooked up any of the alarm wiring yet or any sensors.Once I hooked up the ignition wiring I wanted to test functionality and then found that the brain was powering up the ignition constantly instead of just after receiving a signal to start. I went over the wiring many times trying to figure out what I had done wrong and finally just disconnected the brain and gave it a power and ground with no other connections and I could hear the relay click sending power out the ingition 1 wire and confirmed with my meter. So the whole time I was banging my head it was actually the module misbehaving.Thanks for all the info. I guess I should start hooking up the rest of the wires while waiting for the brain replacement so I will be ahead of the game.I have to run a wire from the battery to power the heated mirrors I am putting in but have not figured out how much current draw they have yet. I know my meter can do it but I have not seen the manual for it in about 20 years. Unfortunately I think my meter only reads up to 10amps though. I will test each mirror separately and determine how heavy a wire and fuse I need and then hook it all up to a relay off the defroster switch.Quote, originally posted by Jahntassa »Was it you I sent the instructions to the other day? Hm..Tach is easy. Don't bother with the ECU, way too much of a pain. Run the tach wire into the engine bay and hook it up to one of your fuel injectors. Every injector has two wires on it, and one of the wires matches colors with the other injectors. Pick the wire that is DIFFERENT on each injector and hook up your tach sense wire to that. You only need to hook it up to one. Then make sure you 'teach' the remote start the tach.If you have the hoodpin hooked up, it won't start. And I'd reccomend hooking up at least one of the safties (At least the brake switch) before you try starting it, just so you can shut it down quickly.You probably have two 12v constants going into the remote start, right? If so, you can either split them up on the 30a and 10a, or combine them both on the 30a. The RS doesn't pull much power, but it -does- substitute for the keyswitch, and who knows how much current is going through that thing.If it has an alarm, it's probably going off as soon as you apply power, make sure the remotes are programmed and disarm it.Best place to run wires through is the main wiring gromit up above the gas pedal.Mount the siren anywhere you can find space. Up on the front passenger side is usually pretty empty.Anti-grind has to do with the tach wire. If it senses the car is running, it won't try to start.Starter kill will cut the starter wire so you can't start with the key. Do NOT CUT the ignition wire, only the starter wire in the ignition harness! Then one side of the relay goes one way, and the other goes the other way. Make sure the starter wire coming off the remote start is on the side of the starter-kill going toward the engine. The starter-kill will be engaged during remote start, and it'd be kinda pointless to kill the remote start feed.Any specific questions feel free to IM or email me. I haven't been checking genvibe a lot recently..

[the_nite_owl]

Any insight into this wiring problem?I have connected up the ignition wires, ground and Parking Light wire.I have not hooked up any of the sensors, alarm wiring, brake sensor or power locks yet. I figured these wires alone should be enough to test and ensure things are working correctly right now.When I plug in the brain module the parking lights come on and all accessories are engaged though I seem to have everything setup correctly.Question: There are two 12v constants sources on the ignition switch, one on a 30amp fuse one on a 10amp fuse. Is it necessary to pull one ignition voltage from one of those constants and the second igntion from the other or can they both be combined on the 30amp?Any reason why they MUST be separate? And if they must be separated, should the 30amp be igntion 1 or igntion 2?As far as the brain module, it pulls both the modules power and igntion 1's power from one line and the second ignition from the other.Could pulling power for the module, igntion 1 and igniton2 (which is sent through a relay) cause the problems I am having?Time to quit for the night and try again in the morning. *Sigh*