Replace Head Unit or Install Aux2Car?

[mpalmer]

Like a lot of people I would like an aux input on my vibe factory radio. I have 2005 vibe with single CD and M&T. Should I install an aux2car or replace the head unit with a one that has an aux input. I was told by a local installer that a replacing a class 2 radio would require a special module (separate from the wiring harness) to enable the aftermarket radio to work. Is this true? Seems like it may be easier to just install the aux2car – all I really want is an aux input. Are there any issues to watch for when unplugging the radio from the power source? I know that the radio has an anti-theft device and I don't want to have to take it to the dealer for reprogramming.Does the aux2car require any separate grounding or power, or does it simply plug in between the radio and factory wiring harness?

[GMJAP]

Quote, originally posted by mpalmer »Like a lot of people I would like an aux input on my vibe factory radio. I have 2005 vibe with single CD and M&T. Should I install an aux2car or replace the head unit with a one that has an aux input. I was told by a local installer that a replacing a class 2 radio would require a special module (separate from the wiring harness) to enable the aftermarket radio to work. Is this true? Seems like it may be easier to just install the aux2car – all I really want is an aux input. Are there any issues to watch for when unplugging the radio from the power source? I know that the radio has an anti-theft device and I don't want to have to take it to the dealer for reprogramming.Does the aux2car require any separate grounding or power, or does it simply plug in between the radio and factory wiring harness?#1) The Vibe radio does not connect to the car over the cass2 bus, since the car is really a Toyota. Thus, no special module is required if you get an aftermarket head unit on the Vibe. (However, for this reason you also cannot use a factory head unit from another GM vehicle in the Vibe.)#2) There are no special issues with removing the radio from the power supply. The single CD head unit does not have a theftlock feature (at least not one that's activated by removing and reconnecting power).#3) Because you have M&Ts, there is a factory amplifier under the passenger seat that runs off the speaker outputs of the factory head unit. Depending on the aftermarket head unit that you buy, you may need some kind of level converter to use the amplifier. (But you might not). If you remove the amplifier, you will probably need to replace the factory speakers as well since they are 2 Ohms instead of the standard 4 Ohms.#3) If you have factory XM radio, then the AUX2CAR may not work. Otherwise, it'll be fine.#4) The AUX2CAR installation is fairly easy. It connects between the 12-pin connector on the back of the radio, and the 12-pin harness. It has a yellow wire that must be attached to the Blue/Yellow wire on the corner of the 24-pin radio harness to get power.#5) AUX2CAR allows you to select between the internal CD and the AUX source by pressing the CD/AUX button to toggle between them. (When configured for Class2). Alternatively, you can select the AUX source by pressing the BAND button until XM1 is selected (When configured as XM). Personally, I find the former much more convenient.As to whether or not to replace the head unit versus AUX2CAR, that's your call. Either way you should be able to get good sound from an AUX source.

[mpalmer]

Thanks for the info. From what you are saying seems like inistalling an aftermarket radio should be pretty simple - that may be the best solution. Aftermarket units with an aux input are pretty cheap. I mainly just want to listen to XM (via the roady2) and a portable mp3 player. As far as removing the dash goes, is the silver trim around the radio the only piece that has to be removed? Seems too simple.

[GMJAP]

Quote, originally posted by mpalmer »As far as removing the dash goes, is the silver trim around the radio the only piece that has to be removed? Seems too simple.Yes, that's the only trim piece that needs to be removed. However, what makes it not so simple is trying to disconnect all the switch connectors from the back. Make sure to press the tabs when trying to remove them.The stock radio is held in by 4 hex screws.By the time you get a harness, dual-DIN plate, etc. AUX2CAR might be cheaper, but an A/M might get you other features you want. Let's us know what you decide on and how it works out!

[mpalmer]

That is my delimma - I really don't need any other features offered by an A/M I just want to listen to XM and my mp3. You have a good point about the price adding up for the the "extras" needed to install the A/M. You mentioned that the aux2car has a yellow wire that must be attached to to the 24-pin harness to get power. Is this difficult to do? Does it require some splicing? Once I pull the radio out will it be obvious where the wire needs to be connected?

[GMJAP]

It does require splicing, which is not terribly difficult but might be intimidating if you're not used to wiring stuff. I used a T-splice on the radio wire (just clips around it) but they are hard to find.A standard screw-cap splice should work (like the kind you find in your house wiring) - cut the radio power wire in the middle, strip the ends, strip the AUX2CAR yellow wire, put the 3 ends together and screw on the splice cap.I wouldn't say it's obvious which wire you need to splice into. However, knowing the color (Blue with yellow stripe) and that it's on one of the ends of the 24-pin connector should make it fairly easy to locate.A few of the forum members (including myself) have run the aux input cable down behind the console and into the little drawer under the shifter, where it's hidden from view but easily accessible. This requires more trim removal, however, but I wouldn't say it's very difficult.You might also check out the PAC AAI-GM24, I think it is. This unit has 2 AUX inputs: One selectable by the CD/AUX button, the other by the BAND button as XM1. If I'm just confusing things by bringing up more options, then forget I mentioned it

[mpalmer]

This might be a stupid question but I am assumming that I need to disconnect the battery before doing all of this.Does the PAC AAI-GM24 connect the same way the aux2car does (plug in with seperate power wire)? Thanks for all of the great info!

[ragingfish]

Quote, originally posted by mpalmer »This might be a stupid question but I am assumming that I need to disconnect the battery before doing all of this.Not required but HIGHLY recommended! You only need disconnect the negative terminal and cover the battery terminal so the wire doesn't shift and touch it accidentally...I usually take the cover of the fuse box and put it over the battery terminal, works perfectly.

[GMJAP]

Raging is right, though an alternative is to pull the radio fuse.PS: AAI-GM24: couldn't tell ya. You could try asking the guys at http://www.pac-audio.com. They're usually good about answering email.PPS- I just looked at the instructions on the PAC site and it looks like you not only have to connect a separate power wire but a ground wire as well.

[mpalmer]

Any suggestions as to where the ground wire should be connected? What would be the issues associated with a bad ground (road noise)?

[ragingfish]

You can tap into both +12 and ground via the radio harness. +12 is gray, pin B2. Ground is pin A12, brown.GMJAP: in a former post, you mentioned he should use the blue/yellow wire. Are you sure about that? In the 03/04 models, blue/yellow was battery positive, not ignition positive. That could very well have changed in 05, but I figured I should just make sure...mpalmer: brief explanation. You obviously don't want to use battery positive voltage to power this. Battery positive voltage is ALWAYS on. Even if they car is off and key is out. If you hook up a device to battery positive that is always on when it has power (for example, a radio), the device would eventually drain your battery. Hence the reason I'm asking GMJAP to verify his colors. We don't want you to drain your battery. To locate the pins I mentioned above, use this as a reference: Theoretically, you should not have issues with bad grounds if you access both ground and +12 at the radio. Bad grounds tend to happen if you use two separate ground points, and voltage "leaks" across the chassis, creating interference between the two ground points. If you have one ground point, this is far less likely to occur.

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[GMJAP]

Quote, originally posted by ragingfish »GMJAP: in a former post, you mentioned he should use the blue/yellow wire. Are you sure about that? In the 03/04 models, blue/yellow was battery positive, not ignition positive. That could very well have changed in 05, but I figured I should just make sure...mpalmer: brief explanation. You obviously don't want to use battery positive voltage to power this. Battery positive voltage is ALWAYS on. Even if they car is off and key is out. If you hook up a device to battery positive that is always on when it has power (for example, a radio), the device would eventually drain your battery. Hence the reason I'm asking GMJAP to verify his colors. We don't want you to drain your battery. I did mean the Blue/Yellow, which is battery positive. (It looks Blue/White to some). This is where you want to connect the AUX unit positive, not to the gray ignition wire. The AUX2CAR takes very little current - in the noise of what the rest of the car takes when it's off. It won't drain your battery.It is important to use the Blue/Yellow wire to prevent noise (alternator whine) on the AUX audio.See these threads:http://forums.genvibe.com/zerothread?id ... 35Raging's suggestion for the ground should work.

[mpalmer]

Here is a link to one on Ebay:http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISA...=WDVWWould this one be comptable? It says it is version 2 - no hardwiring, cutting, splicing, or soldering required.

[GMJAP]

That looks like the latest version, however the instructions on PACs website still show it needing to connect power and ground. While I haven't actually seen or done an install with this interface, I would tend to trust the info in PACs instructions over the Ebay seller.That's not to say it isn't worth getting it off Ebay, but you'll probably still need to connect (splice) those 2 wires.

[mpalmer]

Just to confirm...the ground should be spliced with the brown wire (a12) on the harness.

[GMJAP]

Quote, originally posted by mpalmer »Just to confirm...the ground should be spliced with the brown wire (a12) on the harness.Correct. And the power wire is B1 (Bu/Ye)PS- Note that the instructions (at least the ones I saw) show different wire colors, but those listed here are correct for the Vibe.

[mpalmer]

I have seen some posts about people hardwiring power behind the dash for their XM units. Where do you borrow power from? What knid of connector do you use?

[GMJAP]

The easiest place would be the cig lighter.

[mpalmer]

Just splice in the power wire with the wire going to the cig lighter? Do you have to consider pos(+) or neg(-) connections when splicing the wires? With my luck I would connect them incorrectly and burn up something.

[GMJAP]

Quote, originally posted by mpalmer »Just splice in the power wire with the wire going to the cig lighter? Do you have to consider pos(+) or neg(-) connections when splicing the wires? With my luck I would connect them incorrectly and burn up something.Yes, you would have to be sure 12 volts and ground were connected correctly or you might damage your XM and possibly blow the cig fuse. Also be sure to do the splicing and verify there are no shorts with car off.

[mpalmer]

I don't have my xm unit handy, but does the power wire have a stripe or something to differentiate between 12v and ground?