Remote starter question

tothebone · Post by **tothebone** » Mon Dec 27, 2004 10:14 pm

I was thinking about a remote starter. I noticed that Jahntassa and others recomended the Rattler 369d for ease of installation and reliabilty, etc... These are on ebay as opened boxes and looks like they are the older ones before DEI started using the internal relays. The question is, is the BOA 265b as good/easy as the rattler? Its the same company and all.... I also saw a viper valet 561r on ebay for 69 bucks. This is the same as the rattler but it doesnt come with the DIY instructions..... damn I'm confused. Any help, suggestions, install instructions, anything would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Jahntassa · Post by **Jahntassa** » Mon Dec 27, 2004 11:34 pm

Boa is just a lower version on the totem pole from Rattler. As long as you can get a wiring diagram from the unit itself, that's all you need. I need to tweak the 369D guide I made before I send it to you..If you do decide on something, all I need is a scan of the wiring diagram from the manual, then I can tweak the directions specifically to your unit.

tothebone · Post by **tothebone** » Mon Dec 27, 2004 11:46 pm

Is there anything you don't know? Although the boa is lower on the scale, do you think it is adequate? Thanks again. I'll keep you posted as to which one I get. Maybe I'll post pictures of the install.

4X4CHICHI · Post by **4X4CHICHI** » Tue Dec 28, 2004 7:31 am

Has anyone tried to install one on a GT?

tothebone · Post by **tothebone** » Tue Dec 28, 2004 7:44 am

Jahntassa has. A Viper if I'm not mistaken.

ragingfish · Post by **ragingfish** » Tue Dec 28, 2004 8:28 am

I have the Rattler...I believe Boa is the brand found in Target...Simple is the best way to describe it. If all you want is turn on, turn off, then it should be fine. Anything made by DEI seems quality.

tothebone · Post by **tothebone** » Tue Dec 28, 2004 9:14 am

Heres The one from target.... looks like a no name brand. http://images.amazon.com/image..._.jpgI saw the boa on cardomain http://www.cardomain.com/item/DEI265BI seem to be winning one of the auctions on ebay for a rattler.... Lets see what happens!

Jahntassa · Post by **Jahntassa** » Tue Dec 28, 2004 11:02 am

Quote, originally posted by tothebone Â»Jahntassa has. A Viper if I'm not mistaken.Correct, Viper 791XV. On a GT. Potentially very unsafe, but okay if you usually park in neutral.

ragingfish · Post by **ragingfish** » Tue Dec 28, 2004 1:28 pm

Around here they sell Boa in Target...Could be a regional thing...

Jahntassa · Post by **Jahntassa** » Tue Dec 28, 2004 2:02 pm

I can't believe they're selling these things in Target... I guess only really fearless people buy them to install themselves...I mean, seriously...there's a lot you could potentially screw up.Of course, the instructions I made for Mike are now proved twice-over. Go me for using my car as an experiment!

ragingfish · Post by **ragingfish** » Tue Dec 28, 2004 2:18 pm

Jahntassa's directions are flawless and simple!I still thank him to this day for his bountiful information!

tothebone · Post by **tothebone** » Tue Dec 28, 2004 6:50 pm

That's good to hear. I just won a rattler of my own on ebay! Jahntassa, wanna try for 3 out of 3?

Jahntassa · Post by **Jahntassa** » Tue Dec 28, 2004 11:31 pm

Sure'n! Still gotta tweek 'em a bit, and you need to tell me if you'd rather have the third button control the glass hatch, or the defroster. The defroster I still need to figure out, i've been a little lazy.

tothebone · Post by **tothebone** » Wed Dec 29, 2004 12:06 am

so the buttons are start /stop, lock/unlock and an Aux? is the lock unlock staged like the factory remote? Driver door then all doors including trunk? If the 3rd could do the defrost, that would be cool, but dont kill yourself. What ever is easier for you, I'm not that pressed. Thanks again! I'll keep you posted as to when I get the thing in the mail. Any suggestions on where to get a 2nd remote fer cheap? I see em for 30-40 bucks (i got the whole system for 50) .

ragingfish · Post by **ragingfish** » Wed Dec 29, 2004 8:45 am

Actually, the third button isn't a pulse on/off, it's momentary. Won't work with defrost, but will for the hatch. You need to connect the defrost to the secondary output, remember Jahntassa?Also, I believe you need a second module with the 369d to interface with the power locks, don't you?

Jahntassa · Post by **Jahntassa** » Wed Dec 29, 2004 8:51 am

Quote, originally posted by tothebone Â»so the buttons are start /stop, lock/unlock and an Aux? is the lock unlock staged like the factory remote? Driver door then all doors including trunk? If the 3rd could do the defrost, that would be cool, but dont kill yourself. What ever is easier for you, I'm not that pressed. Thanks again! I'll keep you posted as to when I get the thing in the mail. Any suggestions on where to get a 2nd remote fer cheap? I see em for 30-40 bucks (i got the whole system for 50) . Er, I forget the buttons.. I guess it's like that. The two-stage unlock is built into the power locks. Tap it once, it does the driver, tap it again, it does the rest (including hatch, but not the glass). As for the defrost, if I can ever get coherent enough to test, it should be simple enough to trigger the rear defrost. I think it's a momentary switch anyway that just triggers on/off, but I haven't had time to test it yet..

tothebone · Post by **tothebone** » Thu Jan 06, 2005 3:25 am

Ok, the starter SHOULD be delivered today. Any word on the install instructions? Are there any other specialty tools I will need beyond the obvious?

Jahntassa · Post by **Jahntassa** » Thu Jan 06, 2005 3:51 am

Yeah, i'll try prepping them later today. Just got preoccupied.Wire strippers, a small knife, a soldiering iron, electrical tape.. You can potentially use T-Taps instead of soldier, but I don't reccomend it.

tothebone · Post by **tothebone** » Thu Jan 06, 2005 3:56 am

Thats cool. Solder huh? Always fun. How much of a pain is it going to be to solder in the car? Do I need a multimeter?

Jahntassa · Post by **Jahntassa** » Thu Jan 06, 2005 5:59 am

Depends on how comfortable you are, and what kinda Iron you have. Multimeters are always good, but you potentially shouldn't need it, since both Mike and I have done it via the instructions which i'm re-writing.

ragingfish · Post by **ragingfish** » Thu Jan 06, 2005 6:12 am

Even though I didn't NEED the multimeter, I used it to verify that the wire he told me to use was the wire I was supposed to be using...Can never be too careful!

Jahntassa · Post by **Jahntassa** » Thu Jan 06, 2005 6:53 am

Alright, wrote up the guide (which I think is complete). Email addresses will let you recieve a wonderful Word document (or HTML if required) that gives step-by-step directions. You can send me a Private Message if you feel like hiding your email, or email me at jahntassa@vidrenlabs.com These instructions should work for the Matrix, too. At least '03-'04. I haven't verified for '05, but it should be the same.

tothebone · Post by **tothebone** » Sat Jan 15, 2005 2:58 am

Alright, Im a puss. I wimped out and had the starter put in by a local car shop.... So I suck. I have the worlds worst luck and I didnt want it to ruin the integrity of my cars electronics. The cool thing is I have to take it back on Monday as the hoodpin switch doesnt work.... that is kinda important. Luckily the shop has a lifetime warranty on thier work. They also didnt install the valet switch and told me that was only necessary if I had an alarm installed. Does that make sense? AND there is a wire coming from under the engince cover. IS that supposed to be there? The remote lock/unlock does them all on the first push as well.... BUT It works, so I guess I should be happy, but I always wonder about these things.... Any thoughts, comments or dirty jokes? Thanks again to all who offerred advice, instructions, etc... This forum RULES!

ragingfish · Post by **ragingfish** » Sat Jan 15, 2005 4:04 am

Quote, originally posted by tothebone Â»Alright, Im a puss. I wimped out and had the starter put in by a local car shop.... So I suck. I have the worlds worst luck and I didnt want it to ruin the integrity of my cars electronics. The cool thing is I have to take it back on Monday as the hoodpin switch doesnt work.... that is kinda important. Luckily the shop has a lifetime warranty on thier work. They also didnt install the valet switch and told me that was only necessary if I had an alarm installed. Does that make sense?If you have the same one as me, then that's bunk. The valet switch is used to program and customize the system. You can change features such as having just one door unlock, or having all doors unlock, how long it runs when you remote start it, whether lights flash or stay on, etc.Quote Â»AND there is a wire coming from under the engince cover. IS that supposed to be there?Not that I'm aware of!! I certainly don't have that...

tothebone · Post by **tothebone** » Sat Jan 15, 2005 6:28 am

I meant the on/off toggle switch.... but then again they might not have installed the valet/program switch either as I cant find it! But I am going back on monday so I will bi-tch (it edited the real word the first time) much then and ask then what the hell that wire is.... maybe I SHOULD have tried it myself.......

ragingfish · Post by **ragingfish** » Sat Jan 15, 2005 6:40 am

The toggle switch is a good safety thing...I disable the RS whenever I go in for service, and sometimes I turn it off if I'm parking in a garage, as we all know that could be deadly...I'd ask for it to be installed, better to have it and not need i then not have it and need it...

tothebone · Post by **tothebone** » Sat Jan 15, 2005 8:11 am

I'll do that. I even have the toyota fog lamp switch. I asked them to use that as the toggle switch and like i said before...they said I didnt need it. Let me ask you this.... If I have the toggle switch on the dask, all my spots are used up...(i have the trunk release, coin thing and security) where do I put the momentary, valet/ program button? I just noticed that when I start the car using the starter, the parking lights switch on and off ( I noticed the dash lights bliking on and off) Im assuming that thats not sposed to happen.....

ragingfish · Post by **ragingfish** » Sat Jan 15, 2005 8:27 am

Quote, originally posted by tothebone Â»I'll do that. I even have the toyota fog lamp switch. I asked them to use that as the toggle switch and like i said before...they said I didnt need it. Let me ask you this.... If I have the toggle switch on the dask, all my spots are used up...(i have the trunk release, coin thing and security) where do I put the momentary, valet/ program button?Wherever you want. I don't leave mine connected, I only plug it in if I want to make programming changes. Keep in mind you need to be able to see the brain to program the unit because it has an LED that flashes to give you feedback...I don't know where the put it in your car...in mine, I put it right behind the gauges...Quote Â»I just noticed that when I start the car using the starter, the parking lights switch on and off ( I noticed the dash lights bliking on and off) Im assuming that thats not sposed to happen.....That's normal. You can reprogram it to leave them on constantly, but that requires the valet button.

tothebone · Post by **tothebone** » Sat Jan 15, 2005 8:50 am

I noticed the wires for the brain, but it seems that they placed it ontop of the fuse box. You cant really see the darned thing. Looks like I may have to pull the steering colum cover off to see the LED. Either that or make the installed reprogram it for me... Ha! You said that it can be programmed to do the one button unlock for the driver door and two button for the rest of the doors? I miss that already...... Thanks for the advice.

ragingfish · Post by **ragingfish** » Sat Jan 15, 2005 10:11 am

Here are the programmable options for the 369D: Ones you might adjust are:3 - run time -- how long the car runs in remote start mode before shutting down.4 - Parking light output. If set to constant, stops parking lights from flashing.8 - Dictates how many presses of the star button it takes to remote start the car.12 - determines if the remote unlock auto unlocks just one door (1 pulse), or all 4 (2 pulses).13 - Sets whether the doors auto lock when the key is "ON" and car is NOT in remote start mode.14 - Sets whether the doors auto unlock when the car is turned off.

Attached files

tothebone · Post by **tothebone** » Sat Jan 15, 2005 11:24 am

I was just going over those in the manual. I reckon I could just have the install guy set things the way I want them since I cant see the unit and hope I like it that way..... I definately want the driver door first (one pulse) and the parking lights to stay on.... blinky things bug me sometimes. I hope they didnt throw out the momentary switch.....

Jahntassa · Post by **Jahntassa** » Sat Jan 15, 2005 11:29 am

If you need a switch, I can probably provide one.The wire going underneath the valve cover is the Tach Sense wire. It gives a better reading to the RS if the car is started than voltage sense. It's normal, and a good thing.They should've left the valet/programming button. And typically shops will not install the bypass toggle switch as it adds a step that's not really neccesary. But..if you request..they can install it.

tothebone · Post by **tothebone** » Sat Jan 15, 2005 12:30 pm

Cool. Its a reputable shop, Im thinking I am just being paranoid...but they should have at least confirmed that the hoodpin worked. I have switches up the wazoo now. I originally got the toyota one for the auto headlight bypass trick, but I may use it for the starter instead, or maybe not at all. What do you think? As far as the valet/programming button... it may be there, I just cant see it. Should I have them do all the programming so once its set, I can forget about it? Sheesh, and I thought taking it to a shopwould be EASIER!

ragingfish · Post by **ragingfish** » Sat Jan 15, 2005 12:36 pm

I had a problem develop with my hood pin over time. It slowly stopped working, develop some sorta crud on it that kept the contacts from ever making a connection.Jahntassa sprayed some miracle stuff on it, worked fine ever since.Could be what happened in your case, though unlikely it would happen in just a few days...

tothebone · Post by **tothebone** » Sat Jan 15, 2005 12:41 pm

few days, nuthin, it was installed TODAY!

Jahntassa · Post by **Jahntassa** » Sat Jan 15, 2005 10:24 pm

Probably just a bad grounding point..they need to strip away some paint from wherever they screwed it in so it'll catch good ground. But yeah, take it back and say "Hey..this ain't right"

tothebone · Post by **tothebone** » Sun Jan 16, 2005 7:21 am

They attached it to the bracket in the front of the engine compartment that looks like it holds a AC line. Would you also suggest to have them install the on/off switch? Would the toyota fog lamp switch work? An on off is an on off right?

Jahntassa · Post by **Jahntassa** » Sun Jan 16, 2005 12:47 pm

Any switch will do, just needs to be grounded on the other side. And anywhere is good, as long as the switch can actually press down and the end of the connector not touch something metal.

glassman · Post by **glassman** » Sun Jan 16, 2005 1:24 pm

a little off topic but i will ask any wayjantassa do you have a wiring diagram for an 03 silverodo extra cab with door locks and fact alarm to be able to hook up a remote start ?

Jahntassa · Post by **Jahntassa** » Sun Jan 16, 2005 11:19 pm

Quote, originally posted by glassman Â»a little off topic but i will ask any wayjantassa do you have a wiring diagram for an 03 silverodo extra cab with door locks and fact alarm to be able to hook up a remote start ?That is not as simple. Depending on the remote start, you're going to need several expensive parts.If you get these parts from Circuit City, they are models:CSA PLXRCSA GMLROr something to that effect. Basically, a Passlock II bypass module, as well as a GM Doorlock interface module. You need the passlock interface to be able to remote start the vehicle, and there's no way to directly interface with the doorlocks in the vehicle, so you need the GMLR to do it for you, because the doorlocks are controlled by the car's computer.But beyond that, I can grab the rest of the wiring stuff for you. You need a RS unit capable of turning on two accesory wires, as well as two ignition wires. PM me if you need the specifics.

tothebone · Post by **tothebone** » Mon Jan 17, 2005 3:48 am

OK. Back from the shop. Got the hood pin switch fixed. They just remounted it. It was on a bracket that had a little ledge on it and it wasnt making good ground. Now it is. I also noticed that when the starter was running, the vents didnt blow, no climate control. That kinda defeats the purpose of the whole damn thing so I made them fix that too. I found the valet switch...it was tucked up underneath out of view. I cant see the LED without taking apart the dash so I made them program it the way I wanted. EXCEPT... they said that the door locks can only be set to open ALL 4 doors with one pulse or two, not the 1 pulse drivers door, 2 pulses the others....is this correct? They tried to tell me that if the remote have the 4th button it could do that, but since mine doesnt, it has to be all or nuthing, one pulse or two to activate. Maybe when it gets warmer, I'll pull apart the dash and try the 2 pulse thing to see if that works.... I opted not to install the on/off switch (actually, they didnt give me the option....) anyone think Im getting the shaft for all this?

Jahntassa · Post by **Jahntassa** » Mon Jan 17, 2005 4:20 am

On/off is optional, but not required, it's not too hard to modify it in there, though.And Mike has the same unit, which is basically the same as mine. By -default- it should be able to do one door then the rest. Unless they tapped it into some wire that I don't know about, that defeats that. It sounds like they didn't have all the info for the car...but at least they got it closer to where it should be.

tothebone · Post by **tothebone** » Mon Jan 17, 2005 6:09 am

Im assuming that if I disconnect the battery to work on something and then re connect it--- with the hoodpin switch, it shouldnt start right? As far as the door thingy, you dont think that is something that the configuration could fix? Im not TOO worried about it, but it was kinda nice doing the staged thing.... but like i said, it works and the labor has a lifetime warranty....

Jahntassa · Post by **Jahntassa** » Mon Jan 17, 2005 10:33 am

Depends on where they hooked it up. If it's a programming feature, you would see the driver door unlock, and the rest of the doors unlock a second later. If they all unlock as soon as you hit the button, they tapped into the doorlocks somewhere else.And yes, the hood being open will prevent the remote start from operating.

tothebone · Post by **tothebone** » Mon Jan 17, 2005 7:21 pm

it appears that there is a delay from the press of a button, click, then the all four door thunk. I will have to check again and see. So if that IS the case, it can be switched to the two pulse thing and we're good?

Jahntassa · Post by **Jahntassa** » Tue Jan 18, 2005 12:55 am

Then that'd be option 12 on the features menu that Mike provided, you'd want it on Single pulse.

tothebone · Post by **tothebone** » Tue Jan 18, 2005 2:35 am

I friggin told em to do that but they launched into a tirade about this wonderful 4th button that is required for the single door/all door thing...... looks like Imma pop the dash off to see if I can see the LED for some reprogramming... Thanks... AGAIN!

HamiltonAudio · Post by **HamiltonAudio** » Sun Jan 23, 2005 5:43 am

Quote, originally posted by tothebone Â»I friggin told em to do that but they launched into a tirade about this wonderful 4th button that is required for the single door/all door thing...... looks like Imma pop the dash off to see if I can see the LED for some reprogramming... Thanks... AGAIN!I'm a little confused. You guys are saying that just by "programming" a feature in your particular brand of remote start, that driver door priority unluck will work?Without going through some serious installation changes, or using a specific dataline-module that supports priority door unlock, this is impossible. Driver door priority unlock is possible on ANY vehicle given the right parts and labour. It just seems like its "too easy" here. I can't remember the last vibe I did, but in looking through my resources, I don't see any dataline modules for this vehicle or the Matrix. None of the GMDL products show compatibilty either. I've scoured all my reference material for this car as well, and the only reference is to the factory security arming with lock, and disarming with unlock. Nothing about one/two pulse for OEM priority door....I'm interested to learn something here..... unfortunately I don't think its as easy as this...bmoney

HamiltonAudio · Post by **HamiltonAudio** » Sun Jan 23, 2005 5:47 am

Quote, originally posted by Jahntassa Â»Correct, Viper 791XV. On a GT. Potentially very unsafe, but okay if you usually park in neutral.also wondering about this one - there are serious liability issues for installing a product not SOLEY INTENDED for installation on a manual transmission car. There are safeguards built in to ensure you are in neutral before leaving the vehicle, and a "programming sequence" in order to make it work. If the doors are opened, park brake touched, etc, the programming is deleted and the car won't start.just "make sure its in neutral" is not only dangerous as hell, but stupid. A lawsuit waiting to happen by the person injured or killed by a leaping Vibe as it cranks in gear....did I miss something??bmoney

HamiltonAudio · Post by **HamiltonAudio** » Sun Jan 23, 2005 5:49 am

Quote, originally posted by tothebone Â»OK. Back from the shop. Got the hood pin switch fixed. They just remounted it. It was on a bracket that had a little ledge on it and it wasnt making good ground. Now it is. I also noticed that when the starter was running, the vents didnt blow, no climate control. That kinda defeats the purpose of the whole damn thing so I made them fix that too. I found the valet switch...it was tucked up underneath out of view. I cant see the LED without taking apart the dash so I made them program it the way I wanted. EXCEPT... they said that the door locks can only be set to open ALL 4 doors with one pulse or two, not the 1 pulse drivers door, 2 pulses the others....is this correct? They tried to tell me that if the remote have the 4th button it could do that, but since mine doesnt, it has to be all or nuthing, one pulse or two to activate. Maybe when it gets warmer, I'll pull apart the dash and try the 2 pulse thing to see if that works.... I opted not to install the on/off switch (actually, they didnt give me the option....) anyone think Im getting the shaft for all this?also seriously wondering about this one. sorry guys!!!! as I read thru this thread I get more and more worried How did a professional shop NOT have the hvac working under remote start? this is not something to be "fixed" but rather get beaten up for. Same goes for the pinswitch. If it wasn't working, it should have been noticed during the overall-test the shop SHOULD have done, and never gone out the door like that....what shop was this? a place to avoid by the sound of things!!Bmoney

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