Car stereo questions--please help--

[cspmeinkc]

Ok, i have car stereo install questions that i need clarified...............please help!I have looked around on here for the answers, but i have not had any luck. Or maybe just blind............lolI have a new head unit for my 2005 GT.I have the moon and tunes package.I have the cool mount for the radio with the cd holder slot in it. Can the slot be on the top of the radio instead of the bottom?If i just install the head unit with the tunes package, (just a head unit swap) will i have sound issues?Will i loose some power options with this install, due to the radio is tied into the cars computer?(i.e.. windows, locks, moonroof)Speakers are 6-1/2 all the way around? What is the mounting depth of the door speakers?I am having problems finding the wiring harness for this, any one have a part number and vendor for this? I want quality, i am a purist.This is what i wanted to do........Install new head unit, install amp for sub box, and install sub box powered off of that amp.other speakers will be powered from the head unit and the moon and tunes package.(door speakers will be replaced soon but for now i will install a capacitor on them).If there is anything else i need to know PLEASE tell me!Thanks a lot!

[ebslopp]

Quote »Will i loose some power options with this install, due to the radio is tied into the cars computer?(i.e.. windows, locks, moonroof)No, the radio is not tied to the cars computer.

[cspmeinkc]

i was told by a few people i may have a problem with that?Knd of strange that they would be tied together?

[ebslopp]

I think the Sunfire has the chimes built into the radio. So if you want to put an aftermarket radio in a Sunfire, you have to hide the radio somewhere in the dash. But the Vibe is not like that.

[Jahntassa]

You would not have to hide the radio in the dash for the Sunfire, or any other GM Databus vehicle. You can get a box that will simulate the doorchime instead.The Vibe, as well as we know, does not have the Databus II system in it, so it does not "talk" to the cars computer. Most newer GM/Chevy vehicles do, and it's a security thing.The front door speakers have less of a mounting depth than the rear, because of the front windows. As long as you gut the front speakers, or buy the correct spacers, you won't have a problem with mounting depth.You might have less issues if you can bypass the M&T amp, there've been a few successful ways discussed. Try it just the way it is now, and see how you like it. You never know until you try..You shouldn't need caps for the door speakers neccessarily, I tend to hate the sound produced by them. You might want to try to find an active crossover, or if your headunit has a built-in hi-pass filter, use that instead.Harness is Metra part 70-2003, or 80-2003 if you buy from Circuit City

[cspmeinkc]

thanks for all of the good info.I just didnt want to tear it apart to find out it was going to be a pain in the a$$!I have done a lot of reading on here about the install, and should be doing it next week.

[Jakerooni]

Good advise. Yes almost every new GM vehicle comes with this databus (which I find to be a pain in the (removed)) security system. Basically what I've seen done when people go to upgrade their HU's is they take the stocker and place it somewhere out of site out of mind still connected to the databus. (the sunfires usually end up in the trunk) The only thing I would like to add is never buy a cap... Caps' are a huge waste of money. If your electrical system can't handle your audio system you need to Upgrade your electrical system not slap a band-aid (cap) on it. Do it right or don't do it at all is what I've always said. Get a bigger battery (possibly even a deep cell for some of the more outrageous systems) and bigger Alternator. Upgrade to Bigger AWG wiring. Don't get fooled into misconceptions and gimmiky hypes out there.

[Jahntassa]

Hiding the factory radio in the car is no longer the best way to do it, as i've said. There are several add-on boxes to bypass the Databus. Not that it matters for the Vibe.I disagree about the cap. Highly. I added a 1 farad cap to my system which is two 10" Sony Subs and a 350w Lightning Audio amp, and I could barely turn it on without the headlights severely dimming. This is with 4 AWG wiring to the amp, both ground and positive, and new ground wires under the hood. With a $70 capacitor, I managed to fix the headlight dimming, and it does hit harder. That's $70, versus $100 for an Optima battery, or a good $200 or more for an upgraded alternator. Yes, it's a bandaid. But most people would rather spend $70-$100 to simply make it work rather than rebuild 70% of their electrical system.Caps are not gimmiks. They are not the ideal solution, i'll agree, but often times most people cannot afford or want to deal with the ideal solution.