Well, it has officially been done. I bypassed the M&T amp using the Metra 70-2056, which I special ordered from my local shop for $35. It was pretty easy. The 70-2056 comes with really long wires, as it's meant to run new speaker wires directly from the receiver to the speaker outputs under the seat. Since the factory harnesses are illogically designed (from an aftermarket viewpoint, at least), you need two harnesses since there are speaker outputs contained on both. Keep in mind that it's also designed to be used with vehicles other than just the Vibe/Matrix, so it's not ready-made to bypass the amp under the seat like I did. There is no doubt, however, that it can be done much easier as described below rather than how Metra intended.Here are some pictures of it:The question is, why run new speaker wires all the way from the dash to under the seat when you can just use the speaker wires that are already there? I didn't see why not, so I tried it and it worked perfectly. Here's how to do it:Looking at the Metra kit, the 8-pin harness has 6 pins in positions A, B, C, D, G, & H (no pins in E or F), just as needed, but the 24-pin harness' pins are incorrectly placed. It comes with pins in positions A1-4, A9-12, B1-4, & B9-12 (no pins in A5-8 or B5-8). You'll have to pull out all the pins and put them back in where they are needed (see link below). Not a big deal, but annoying nonetheless. I attempted, as best as was possible, to match the Metra's wire colors to the factory wire colors. Don't even bother trying to use them as they are labeled, just go by color. Of course, the configuration of the factory harnesses makes absolutely no sense. Here's how I ended up doing it (thanks to ragingfish for the original pinout info):Pin Layout w/ Metra wire colors (Be aware that some of the wires are the same color, and obviously you can wire yours however you see fit if you don't like the way I did it. )Here's how it looks spliced together, with the wires shortened considerably.You'll end up with two wires that you don't need at all from the 24-pin harness. And a TON of extra wire:Note that in these pictures I haven't hooked up the tweeters (the wires for them are just laying there unattached). The M&T amp has built-in crossovers for them, but since it's being bypassed, you'll need to get some component speakers with crossovers (and new tweeters) or bass blockers (and keep the factory tweeters).If you've been trying to figure out a way to bypass the M&T amp without altering the factory harnesses or running new wires, this is the solution! Easy!I've attached the instructions for the 70-2056 as a PDF file.
I spoke with a Metra tech support person today about what I did. His interest was piqued by my installation. What I got out of it was that he would look into having that 8-pin harness available for purchase separately. That harness is the only reason to buy the 70-2056 - you don't need all that wire, and the other harness is the same as the 70-2003. Therefore, if the other harness was made available by itself, you could do what I did by buying it and the 70-2003 (the same harness used to connect your aftermarket receiver to the factory harness in the dash), presumably for less money than the 70-2056.
Hey bud --I'm "drafting plans" for a new speaker and amp install, and want to do as little rewiring as possible.Do you still have contact info for that tech at Metra? Do you know if they have the 8 pin harness available on it's own yet?If not, I'll get the combo kit, but hey, anywhere I can save money, I'm game!
YES!I still visit GenVibe periodically. I have not forgotten about my "original" family over here!
Where can we get the Metra 70-2056?? Priced it at lafayetteradio.com, they wanted 49.95 for it. Called Crutchfield, Best Buy, and Circuit City for a special order, they couldn't even help. Even tried calling Scosche to see if they have anything similar.........NO SUCH LUCK.........So if I don't hear anything soon, will be paying the 50 bucks.
Try going to a local audio store - that's where I got mine. It has to be special ordered from Metra, but that shouldn't be a big deal. I don't understand why the big guys you mentioned couldn't help you, but oh well. I guess their customer service is lacking. That's why I suggest going to a local shop. Their customer service should be better, at least in theory. I didn't even have to pay for shipping because the store just included it with their normal order from Metra.
Well, will have to try looking locally. But another question, did u remove the amp from under the seat, or just left it there, and if u did take it out, how simple was it to remove?? I really don't feel like removing the entire seat to get it out. Haven't had the chance to get a good look at it for I have no space or the best weather to get out there.My plan before was to just use the 70-2056 and redo the entire wiring, but I'm growing on your method. My one friend has an idea to just wire it up and then just put bass blockers on the wires to the tweeters. Any thoughts??
2003 Base Neptune , Monotone, Moon & Tunes , Debadged , Sony MP3 Head unit, Sony 6 1/2 Components (fronts), Sony 6 1/2 (rears), bypassed M&T amp, 50% tint front, 20% rear, Cosmo CAI, Megan Racing strut tower brace bar, 140k miles, top bra section, crossbars removed, genvibe decalshttp://www.cardomain.com/ride/684787
Yeah, the ones that I called had no idea. The guy at circuit city said that one harness that he found was 20 bucks, but he was saying how you just hook it up the factory harness and then a set of RCAs hook up to the amp. At that point I had to cut him off because he had NO clue. Usually I'm a big circuit city advocator, but now.....I think I'm just gonna stick with best buy.
2003 Base Neptune , Monotone, Moon & Tunes , Debadged , Sony MP3 Head unit, Sony 6 1/2 Components (fronts), Sony 6 1/2 (rears), bypassed M&T amp, 50% tint front, 20% rear, Cosmo CAI, Megan Racing strut tower brace bar, 140k miles, top bra section, crossbars removed, genvibe decalshttp://www.cardomain.com/ride/684787
well, the place I got mine from is Elston U.S. Electronics. Their number is (773) 283-8286. You can call them if you want; they probably would get it for you for $35 plus shipping to your door. I can't remember the guy's name that I was talking to, unfortunately. If you're talking to the right guy, he might remember ordering it for me. Give it a shot.I have not removed the amp, and I have no intention of doing so unless I eventually put a new 4-channel amp under there in its place.-jeff
I bypassed the amp on my wife's Vibe this weekend. Instead of using the harness I cut the input and output wires off the factory plugs and crimped them together. Most of the input wires matched the colors that LazyTiger posted in the chart above. Pin B7 was blue rather than grey, otherwise the same.The output wires all matched the colors of the input wires. None of them matched the colors on the metra chart. That made it all pretty easy to match the wires that needed to be crimped. I've got coax speakers, so I didn't worry about the tweets.
That works too, if that's your prerogative. Personally, I like to make every modification un-doable. When I eventually sell the car, I want it as much back-to-stock as possible, since the dealer will not likely take my mods into account when pricing out trade-in value.I'm better off IMO parting it out and selling the stuff individually.
YES!I still visit GenVibe periodically. I have not forgotten about my "original" family over here!
Update, if anyone cares... Several weeks ago I did go ahead and take the factory amp out and put in an Alpine MRP-F240 amp under the seat. Made a world of difference with my system. I've stuck with all my Alpine gear (CDA-9827 head unit, MRP-350 sub amp, Type-S components in front, 2-ways in rear, Type-E 12" woofer) just because I'm kind of OCD about having my equipment match. I had an opportunity to put in some Infinity Reference 2-ways, but that would have led me down a slippery slope of replacing other pieces too. I figured I should live with what I've got for at least a year or two before doing anything rash. It's not like my system is bad - far from it - but if I had it to do over again, I don't think I'd go with Alpine. Infinity definitely makes better speakers for the same price, and Pioneer's head units are looking better and better to me. Amps? Eh, I don't know... Alpine's amps seem fine, but then again, I don't know if I could tell a good amp from an average amp.It's a little frustrating because I can tell that I'm right on the cusp of getting into some really incredible sound systems, but I can't justify spending any more money. My system is probably 90% there, and that last 10% would have a huge premium. I think I'll live with what I've got. I've included a picture of my install. Looks pretty messy! I went to a lot of trouble to run the RCAs and power wire neatly, but it all went to crap under the seat! One of these days, I need to fabricate some sort of mount for it. FYI, the passenger seat is removed in this picture, if you're trying to figure out what seems strange.
Ok, I did this bypass after obtaining the 70-2056 harness kit. Here's the thing...I get no audio from the rear speakers. Zip. Nada. Not even static or other such noises. 2004 Vibe, rear speakers work when hooked up to the amp (these are new speakers).What gives?K.
Holy crap, I figured it out!Yes, I did have rear speakers with the amp. No, no sound from them with the diagrams here and in the metra kit.Why?My amp wiring didn't follow those diagrams for the rear speakers! Oddly enough, all the input channel wiring matched. The right and left front speaker wiring matched. But ultimately, here's what I ended up with, in case anyone else has a similar issue.A1A2A3A4 Left Rear Input -A5 Left Rear Input +A6 Left Front Input -A7 Left Front Input +A8A9 Right Rear Speaker +A10 Right Rear Speaker -A11 Left Rear Speaker +A12 Left Rear Speaker -B1B2B3B4 Right Rear Input -B5 Right Rear Input +B6 Right Front Input +B7 Right Front Input -B8B9 (tweeter output unused)B10 (tweeter output unused)B11 (tweeter output unused)B12 (tweeter output unused)For the 8-pin connector, only pins A, B, C, D are used as listed in the diagrams at the head of this thread. However, I should note my amp then uses pins E and F, whereas the Metra kit and the diagrams above use G and H.So there you have it. Took me a while to figure this one out. But at least now my work is (hopefully) done!K.
So there is actually an amp in there? Thank god my idiotic dealer was trying to tell my dad its 200 watts is coming from the head unit and i told him he was full of sheet and naturally my dad knocked me across the head and beleived teh damn dealer. If there is an amp in there then replacing the system that was totalled in my accident is gonna come alot easier. but i still have to buy 2 more kicker 2200w amps and those are $1500 each and that part le'blowz.
04 Fusion Orange Base Vibe auto Now no longer with us thanks to ignorant drivers...
Umm, if you'd like I can drive out there and show them how there is actually an amp there on my car. Of course there's an amp under there, mine went whacko and fried the speakers. Tried to replace that with a different stock m&t amp but that only works w/ the tweeters... lolSo anyway, hell yeah there's an amp under there!
03 Vibe base. Born 10/14/2002 06:07 AM
Auto, Moon & Tunes, power package. 143k
Neptune/dying clearcoat/primer grey.
Call the number at Elston Electronics.....chicago I think....it's been so long since I bypassed, but the guys that I talked to where kinda hard to understand....but they were able to help. They were able to order and ship it to me....took a couple weeks I guess by the time they ordered it from their supplier.Good luck(773) 283-8286
2003 Base Neptune , Monotone, Moon & Tunes , Debadged , Sony MP3 Head unit, Sony 6 1/2 Components (fronts), Sony 6 1/2 (rears), bypassed M&T amp, 50% tint front, 20% rear, Cosmo CAI, Megan Racing strut tower brace bar, 140k miles, top bra section, crossbars removed, genvibe decalshttp://www.cardomain.com/ride/684787
Quote, originally posted by djnewm »...the guys that I talked to where kinda hard to understand....Ha... well, they're all Mexican, as is pretty common in Chicago. But they're all really nice guys. I haven't been by that place in a long time because I don't take the same route to work anymore. Don't know if they're still alive and kickin' or not, but I would assume so. Good luck; glad I could point some business to them.