GenVibe - Community for Pontiac Vibe Enthusiasts

I replaced the clutch with LUK clutch set. Everything went well. Now, the clutch seems to engage as soon as I release the pedal (less than 1" of the floor). I'll bleed the clutch, but any adjustment in the clutch cable for this issue?

It’s a hydraulic clutch, no cable. That being said, if it’s anything like my 03 there’s an adjustment rod up under the dash between the pedal and the master cylinder

See adjustment here, or use the search on this forum:

https://forums.genvibe.com/phpBB3/viewt ... nt#p522254

If the locknut is so tight, don't force it because you could break the plastic coupling. Detach the master clutch cylinder from the pedal and spin the plastic coupling counter-clockwise by hand then you will able to turn the locknut.

I had the free play reduced by spinning the plastic coupling (on master cylinder) counterclockwise, attach it to the clutch pedal then tighten the locknut. Clutch engagement is OK now.

Uhm really old post, but I'm basically having this exact problem. 2009 5 speed vibe, and my clutch doesn't engage until the pedal hits the floor. Starting, 1st gear, and reverse are semi impossible to get into without grinding because the pedal has to be 98% depressed

How the hell did you get the plastic assembly off without cracking the lock nut? I'm 99% sure mine has yellow locktite on it (as do multiple other nuts under the dash), and the plastic coupling is definitely flexing hard even for the quarter turn it will go. I see it's supposed to have a cotter pin bolt on the coupler, but mine seems to have a metal bolt with nothing (I can feel) holding it in on the opposite side facing the wheel. I assume if you could remove the cotter pinned coupler, you could simply twist the cylinder and reattach to the pedal.

Do we even know if it's clockwise or CCW to loosen the lock nut? Mine seems to just stop no matter which way I turn it.

I can't help out here but wanted to point out that I am having the same problem BUT on my 2004 Vibe GT. Bought it over six years ago and was shocked that I had to press the clutch pedal ALL THE WAY down to the floor in order for 100% disengagement to happen. To this day I still have minor "grinding" due to not pressing it all the way down. On my 2009 Vibe GT, the opposite is true. Still factory clutch (just over 40k original miles) but it disengages almost immediately after touching the clutch pedal, which I don't like. Never bothered with either of these two yet BUT will definitely do at some point on the 2004 one. Keep us posted on how your adjustment goes.

I had a similar issue after replacing my clutch with a LUK set. It ended up being air in the system, so bleeding the clutch definitely helped. If you're working with a cable setup, you might want to check if it's adjustable—tightening it a bit could shift the engagement point. But honestly, if the issue's still there after bleeding, it could be something like the master or slave cylinder acting up. Keep an eye on those if the pedal's still acting funny.

Yeah, bleeding the clutch is step one. If that doesn't fix it, check your clutch cable adjustment – it might be too tight. There's usually a way to loosen it slightly at the transmission end or the pedal end (depending on your car).

After a solid 3 weeks of driving, I mostly got used to the clutch as is. I actually now would like to adjust the bite point further down on the pedal. That being, I learned that the engagement ends at around 50% in the travel. So when shifting up, I tend to accelerate early and pull off the clutch too slowly. By the time I hit the end of the bite, my revs have dropped and I have to give more gas even my mom, being a commercial truck driver/instructor, said the clutch is heavy and long.

My bigger issue now is lack of smooth shifting by the vehicle. I have the 3rd gear grind that most 5 speeds have (presumably from the cold), so I'm going to get a Trans fluid change soon. Heard good things about redline mt-lv 70-75, gonna ask my shop to use it.