GenVibe - Community for Pontiac Vibe Enthusiasts

I'm buying this harness to add a single din to a 2009 vibe base model. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001JT ... ailpages00

In my 2010 I remember there was a loose red wire you had to run. I was wondering if anyone knows where you need to run it to or if there is an easier way to get the 12v.

Thanks

wow, was just about to post the same question

I did find these older posts on the topic, but they didn't quite answer this question (or maybe it did and I'm too dense to understand)
viewtopic.php?t=27792
viewtopic.php?t=37163

viewtopic.php?t=41754

The Metra 70-2105 wiring harness works fine. You need to move the red pin to position 12 (bottom row, 4th from the right when looking straight on) for ACC power and there is no orange (dimmer) wire. I had to splice directly from the head unit wiring harness orange wire to a small green wire in the middle of the same plug that gave you ACC. Use a test light or voltmeter to confirm this.

Scosche also makes the GM18B, which appears to include the orange wire. You should confirm its placement. You will also need to move the red wire on this harness as well.

Thanks that was what I thought but I wanted to make sure.

So if I move the red wire in the Metra harness to position 12, I won't need to run the extra red wire to another power source?

That's what i'm thinking.

This is the wiring diagram for the GM18B. Looks like the orange wire is there. So I move the 12V from P1-16 to P1-12? Is there a wiring diagram for the stock/car-side connector?

It looks like I may have meant position 13. It's still 4th from the right on the 16-pin connector. The wiring you list for the 14-pin connector looks fine, though they count differently (7 on the GM diagram is 1 on yours). Check the colors in the car harness to make sure things line up correctly.

The dimmer and antenna control seem to be in the right place. The Vibe has a stubby antenna and employs an amplifier powered by the head unit, so the antenna control from the head unit has to be connected.

Great, I'll go with the GM18B since it has the dimmer/orange line and move the 12V. Thanks for your help!

whyteryce wrote:Great, I'll go with the GM18B since it has the dimmer/orange line and move the 12V. Thanks for your help!

No problem. Use a multimeter or test light to check what you're connecting the red wire to before you actually connect it, though. You should get +12V with the key in Run and 0V with the key out of the ignition.

I ended up not being able to move the wire, so I ended up using the loose red wire.

I tapped into the cigarette lighter by removing the cupholder, which then allowed the change tray to pop out.

I hope this helps.

One question, the harness I got with the new stereo has a connector at the end of the blue wire (power antenna). What should I do here? Do I need to use something that fits into the connector or snip it and use a (removed) connector?

Also the ground that came with the stereo looks like it wants to be installed directly to the vehicle chassis. Should I still just use the (removed) connector to connect to ground on the other end of the harness? Or should I screw it down and leave the vehicle harness side unconnected to the radio?

I just matched up the wires out of the harness except for the red wire. The red wire I spliced into the cigarette lighter.

I ended up getting 3 of the metra 70-2105. I pulled the pinned wires from the extra 2 and used them to fill one so that my new radio would have all wires connected correctly. Factory amp and subwoofer are working as well with doing the wiring harness that way. Luckily, the radio i installed had programmable sterring wheel control options so i didnt need to use the expensive universal axxess controller.

Moving the pins/receptacles in the connector shell was challenging for me on the 70-2105. I did not want to lose this battle and I wondered why the harness was not configured better?! Maybe it fits more applications configured the way it is.
There are tools you can buy to do this but I ended up taking an already tiny screwdriver and grinding it narrower and thinner to remove the "pin"... the tool ended up being frighteningly thin. I also lubed the "tool" with some "wire pulling lubricant" but WD-40 would have done. Push your tool in the flat side of the opening where the wire goes into the connector. The thing you are apparently trying to accomplish is push a plastic flap of the shell connector out of the way so the "pin/connector" can slide free (pull on wire).

I ended up winning this minor war - off to at least a few more battles to finish my installation.

I hate jobs like that, spend hours trying to find what tool I have that I can use or modify to do some task that procedures make seem like a trivial step.

Glad you got that done, good luck finishing the install