GenVibe - Community for Pontiac Vibe Enthusiasts

Hey guys, been searching around on here trying to gather info on installing aftermarket speakers in the doors. The more I read the more confused I'm starting to get. I have a pair of Alpine 6.5" components and a pair of Alpine 6.5" 2way coaxial's sitting in my garage I'd love to put in the Vibe. I gathered that the stock amp is 2ohm. What kind of issues am I going to run into hooking my speakers up with current amp and wiring? If I remember correctly my Alpines are 4 ohm. I' have an Alpine headunit installed already. I've seen some posts on bypassing the factory amp; is that what I'm going to have to do to make this work out? Thanks in advance for any help in helping me straighten this all out. I just want to have a clear plan before I go taking the door panels out and yanking the stock speakers.

An amp capable of 2 ohms (like the one in the Vibe) can easily handle a smaller (4 ohm) load & not have any issues. You won't have as much power, but it won't hurt the amp or speakers.

The other way around, IE 4 ohm capable amp running a 2 ohm load, will shorten the life expectancy of the amp.

Thanks Vibebear for clearing that up. I've never been big into audio and definitely do not fully understand the whole 2,4,8 ohm. Looks like I need to order some Metra wiring harness adapters for the speakers and I'll have me a weekend project. Already read through the post on door panel removal a few times so should be ready to go. Only hang up I'm thinking I'll have will be getting the Alpine 1" tweeters fit into the sail panels in place of the oem tweeters properly.

Maybe later on I'll look further into the amp bypass for more power to the speakers from my Headunit. For now I need to get some speakers in place of the non functioning speaker in the drivers door.

Any other tips for this install would be greatly appreciated.

Depending on mounting hardware you have for your speakers, if you have to drill new holes for the screws, the door metal is soft. Drill the holes as small as possible. While you have your door panels off check the inside the door for rust along the bottom drip edge. When you put the door back together having some single side foam tape or similar, you can shim the door panel or speaker mount. Make everything nice and tight, keep any mystery noises to a minimum.

Sonders wrote:Thanks Vibebear for clearing that up. I've never been big into audio and definitely do not fully understand the whole 2,4,8 ohm. Looks like I need to order some Metra wiring harness adapters for the speakers and I'll have me a weekend project. Already read through the post on door panel removal a few times so should be ready to go. Only hang up I'm thinking I'll have will be getting the Alpine 1" tweeters fit into the sail panels in place of the oem tweeters properly.

Maybe later on I'll look further into the amp bypass for more power to the speakers from my Headunit. For now I need to get some speakers in place of the non functioning speaker in the drivers door.

Any other tips for this install would be greatly appreciated.

There is video on Youtube on the door panel removal on a Toyota Matrix. While you have the door panels removed you have an opportunity to deaden the sound on the door skins with Peel and Seal roofing membrane (Lowe's, Home Depot). It will improve the clarity of the sound.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yYfq-_lURjQ" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Thanks for that info Derf and vibrologist. I plan on picking up some sound deadening material to put in door while I'm in there. Also have some foam tape already to use as a pad behind the speaker mount; didn't think about using it for actual door panel as well though.

Another question that I just brought up in thread above mine. I ordered metra connectors for the actual 6.5 door speakers; so have that connection. However what about the tweeters? Do they get connected to factory wiring for the oem tweeters, or will I still run my crossovers and wiring to the nee tweeters instead? The levels are being filtered at the amp already before going to the seperate speakers right?

Can anybody verify my last post about the correct wiring of the front components? Or do I just try wiring it both ways to see which is best?

Sonders wrote: About the tweeters? Do they get connected to factory wiring for the oem tweeters, or will I still run my crossovers and wiring to the nee tweeters instead? The levels are being filtered at the amp already before going to the separate speakers right?

I have read that the door woofer and tweeter leads are both full range, the OEM tweeter used an inline filter to cut the lower frequencies. I bypassed the factory lead to the doors and installed an aftermarket crossover, so I am not able to verify.

My 03 was wired with a full range input for the fronts (4 wires) from the OEM head unit to the amp, then the OEM amp output had 4 full range outputs (8 wires), front woofer (2) and front tweeter (2) with the filter built into the tweeter (as Derf indicated). What I did was take the 2 output channels from the new amp for the fronts and used a crossover to split the tweeter and woofer. Pretty simple and sounds good. The crossovers came with the component speakers I bought.

I got started on this project yesterday. The mids are in the doors no problem. Got them put in pretty quick. I ran out of time while messing with trying to figure out how to mount the new tweeters. So for now I'm still rolling with the stock tweeters. I found a roll of carpet padding at my parents so used some of it in the door cavity's. When I have time to do the tweeters I think I'll put a layer of the padding behind the door panels as well.

I noticed the filter is built onto the stock tweeters, so I guess I do need to install the crossovers that came with the components.