GenVibe - Community for Pontiac Vibe Enthusiasts

This is a very common problem and I just did it. I only replaced the O- Ring. If you have an oil leak and cant figure out where it is start with this fix.
Super easy repair, just did it in like 15 minutes I was done. Two GM Dealers in Kamloops BC , Smith Chevrolet Cadillac Ltd and Zimmer Wheaton, one wanted 27 dollars and the other wanted 25 dollars! What a rip off and they complain people shop online! I ended up getting it at Toyota for 8 bucks.

http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/Toyo ... e-022.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ScZOYH_I5kk" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
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Can you post up the part no for the o ring? Sheesh I remember when it cost 2 bucks for the o ring. For 25 you can change the whole tensioner.

O-RING 9030122013 $2.76
http://www.villagetoyotaparts.com/produ ... 22013.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

TENSIONER $29.31 135400D010
http://www.villagetoyotaparts.com/produ ... 22020.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Awesome thanks.

Good post. I need to do the same.

Really easy job, even if you're short and cannot see what you're doing. It took me 30 minutes total on a hot-hot engine (and I'm short enough I can't avoid occasionally pressing against the engine). I rotated the engine about 30 degrees with a ratchet on the alternator going anticlockwise and it turned very easily.

Should engine be hot ?

anybody know why by rotating the crankshaft, time chain tensioner will be released ?

Engine does not need to be hot. I did it on mine cold a few months ago.

The tensioner has a little hook that holds it (almost) fully retracted for easy re-installation.
When the engine is turned backwards (by hand) the chain is pulled tight against the tensioner, which releases the hook, then the tensioner plunger comes out to keep tension on the chain when the engine turns forward.
It becomes obvious what's happening when you remove the tensioner.

Thank you Circuitsmith

Now I got the point. it will be released because of pressure of the chain.
I will do it hopefully in the next weekend
I was wondering why some people reported 3 or 4 clicks sound instead of one !
Today I just tried to rotate the alternator to see what will happen and what I can hear
(without installing a new Timing chain tensioner) I could not heat any click
so after release there should not be second or third click sound !

The tensioner has a ratchet mechanism that can click more than once. How far the plunger comes out depends on how much the chain has stretched from use.

I replaced it this afternoon.
I heard one click then I didn't rotate the alternator anymore. it was loud enough. I rotated about 60 degree counter clockwise.
it seems ok !

Thank you Circuitsmith and all the other members !

Kamloops, thanks for the great info. Did this today, and it needed it

When I put the toyota part number 90301-22013 in google, the first result was "68288"

Looked on line, couldn't find a better price after shipping than what the dealer had, so I ran up to the toyota dealer and bought the O-ring for $4.98 after tax.

Didn't have any trouble getting the tensioner out, it just slid right out. The old O-ring was thinner than the new one, on the tensioner, it didn't stick out beyond the diameter of the tensioner. The new one did and was a lot snugger going back into the engine.

The only trouble I had was that the pin that holds the ratcheitng part in place was offset, it stuck out of the side of the tensioner far enough that I couldn't move the hook into position to hook the pin on the plunger, so I had to set it against a solid object and drive it back in.

FYI, the job is not nearly this simple on the 2zz. I created another post to indicate that this should not be attempted on a 2zz without knowing beforehand.

Make sure you use engine sealant or RTV around the O-ring. The O-ring does a terrible job of sealing. Mine blew out about 150 miles from home and dumped out almost 4 quarts of oil like four days after I changed it : / Went to a local GM dealer and they let me reseal it (while praising me and saying they wished more customers were like my). I used some AC Delco engine sealant and it's held up for about 4k miles, despite the fact I immediately continued home after putting it on the tensioner O-ring.

(2X). Replaced my tensioner last year without using RVT .... Started leaking again about 6 months later!

Duly noted on the sealant. Is this the stuff I could use for this purpose? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-8 ... gQodSgMJzw

Probably need to do this at some point, it's been seeping forever but still isn't too bad.

It's been a year and a half since I changed the o-ring, without using a sealant; and there's no seepage.
Others have said using sealant doesn't last forever and makes it harder to change it next time.

I don't recommend counting on the O-ring alone. When I replaced my tensioner after previously sealing it (timing chain was rattling), I had no trouble popping it off. The sealant can mean the difference between suddenly having a massive leak, or springing a leak slowly. Mind you, I just overhauled this engine myself about a year ago and almost had a catastrophic failure because of that POS O-ring suddenly no longer sealing effectively. O-ring was completely intact when I pulled the tensioner out to reseal it, too, just wasn't keeping oil in at all.

Hm, I gotta do this on mine. It's lost about 1/2 a qt (a bit higher than mid way between add and full) in about 3300 miles. While that's not too terrible, it still needs to be fixed. I used a white tissue to dab at the area directly below the tensioner and it pulled back fresh oil, among the caked on grime. So yeah, that's the source of the leak. There is caked on grime on the front (radiator) side but I haven't looked into that yet. It may just be gravity moving it from the back to the front somehow, or the serpentine belt flinging it somehow. It could stand to have a new serpentine belt as well, now that I mention it.

I am going to do a Mobil 1 High Mileage oil (5w30) and Mobil 1 filter oil change soon. I am aiming for an annual oil change interval since I don't drive much generally, so I want to fix the leak first. Plus I need a new air filter.

I pulled up a nearby Toyota dealer's site and I can order the O-ring for about $4 (incl. tax) and the OEM air filter for about $17 (incl. tax) with free pickup. I'm now broke until Friday, so I'll order the parts then. At $68, the OEM serpentine belt is overpriced, so I'll get one from Napa, O'Reilly. or maybe even RockAuto. I might do the belt in February since that has nothing to do with the oil leak or change and doesn't involve any labor related to them.

Completed the o-ring swap today. Almost had a mishap, while resetting the tensioner the catch pin fell out
The tensioner was otherwise fine, took pin over to the vise flattened the shaft a bit, then used the vise to gently press the pin back into the end of the tensioner. Worth checking the part before reinstalling the tensioner. It could have fallen out into the timing chain causing damage on its way to the oil pan.

Derf wrote: Almost had a mishap, while resetting the tensioner the catch pin fell out ..... Worth checking the part before reinstalling the tensioner.

WOW, Close call! Do you suggest just "wiggling" the catch pin to insure it is more than finger tight? Nice repair, gives new meaning to the term "press-fit".

I would suggest wiggling the pin. The pin fell out while I was cleaning the tensioner. Was going to set the latch and the pin was missing. This appears to be the 2rd or 3rd time the tensioner was installed, previous mechanic could have knocked it loose, allowing it to fall the rest of the way out while I was scrubbing the tensioner.

Just did this on our base Vibes in about 15-20 minutes. Very easy and straightforward with the 1ZZ. HOWEVER, I wouldn't suggest doing it on a 2ZZ unless absolutely necessary. I found out, as noted by tinyfrogs, the job is not as simple on the 2ZZ. We ended up having to get the dremel tool out and grind part of the belt tensioner bracket as it sits smack dab in the middle of the way when you try to pull the timing chain tensioner out. Now, eventually, I'll end up replacing the belt tensioner bracket, and before installing the new one, grind the back side of it down for future jobs. A little bit of info about doing this on the 2ZZ can be found here.