GenVibe - Community for Pontiac Vibe Enthusiasts

I posted in this forum because of the greater amount of traffic. I have a bid on ebay for some TRD lowering springs. Are the springs in the base model and GT model the same or different? Will I notice a difference with the TRD springs on my Vibe GT? I want a firmer ride, not necessarily lower, though that wouldn't bother especially the 1.25 inch drop as advertised.Also, is there a specific set of TRD springs for the GT or are the TRD springs the same for both base and GT? What about shocks between base and GT? Any links for info?The auction is over in about 6 hours. Any information would be greatly appreciated!

I believe that the suspensions on the base and GT are identical. The TRD springs are basically rebadged Eibach Pro-kits. You will probably be happy with the ride on the TRD's, but realize 1.25 is not going to look too much different from stock, as you are starting out with nearly 3 inches of fenderwell gap! Pete

I'm not too concerned about lowering the ride height too much because of my cold air intake. I don't want a slammed car to injest water at the first sign of a rainstorm. I was happy with some Eibach Pro-Kits on my old Prelude, so I'm sure I'll like them on the Vibe. Thanks!!

Well, I won the auction, I'll tell you how I like my springs when I get them here and installed. Thanks!!

The install on these cars goes fairly smooth (the front is easier than the back), so just take your time and I'm sure you'll be satisfied with the new stance... oh, and don't forget pics! Pete

You got it! I have a buddy who is very mechanically inclined. All's he normally asks for his services is lunch, so I'll make sure to enlist him to help install the springs and strut bar I won on Ebay.

I just installed mine today and I can tell a big difference. Most is when making a hard 1-2 or 2-3 shift. Before the upgrade, the car would lift a lot in the front compared to the new springs. The same is also true on hard braking. The car doesn't seem to have the same nose dive properties. Not that much of a difference in car height but I do notice as well.

How hard was the install? Any special tools needed? Are the instructions good? My springs are set to arrive via UPS today.

Honestly, I payed to have mine installed. Mine did not come with instructions but basically the short ones go up front and the tall ones are for the back. Just make sure you install them with the wording facing up.

Well, they're installed and they kind of a pain the (removed). Doing it over again, it would take quite a bit less time, but it took a bit over 3 hours with my buddy and myself with my roommate occasionally helping. Finally, with less than 1 MINUTE remaining, I'm torquing down the lug nuts and I break a lug! Ugh, I had thr torque wrench on 85lb/ft as the manual indicates, but it would click and turn a bit more and I would turn, it would click and keep turning, so I kept cranking, finally pop there goes the lug. Try to get that fixed in the next day or two...

You're not the first to pop a lug nut. They seem to be pretty fragile at that high torque. I think if I ever do any wheel work, I may be setting it down to perhaps 70 ft-lb, depending on how it "feels".... I know, I know "that may not be safe...." I am sitting here wondering how easy it will be to undo lugs put on that tight with the standard jack kit if I ever experience a flat.

Quote> Finally, with less than 1 MINUTE remaining, I'm torquing down the lug nuts and I break a lug! Ugh, I had thr torque wrench on 85lb/ft as the manual indicates, but it would click and turn a bit more and I would turn, it would click and keep turning, so I kept cranking, finally pop there goes the lug. Try to get that fixed in the next day or two...Err.., couple of things, QUIKAG:1. Per page 6-77 of the Vibe Owner's Manual, the torque spec is 76 lb-ft, not 85.2. When my torque wrench clicks, that's when it's time to stop; if I keep pulling, it keeps tightening...3. Even still, it shouldn't break a stud at just over 85; I would expect it would take 100 +.4. You didn't use any lube on the threads or nut seats did you? Lube is a no-no. (P. 5-25), and will give the effect of way too much torque.5. I think our studs are a little on the feeble side; I've heard of a LOT of breakage..

Apparently I made several mistakes on this one. Well, the stud is going to be replaced today at the dealer and I'll start using lube and the 76 ft/lb of torque per the manual. I guess I didn't recall correctly the spec as I read it a few months back. Thanks again for the great information!!

Hope this isn't too late, but:Sorry, I guess I wasn't as clear as I thought! The manual states that you should NOT use any lube on the wheel nuts.(I've reworded my previous post just to be sure.)

quote:3. Even still, it shouldn't break a stud at just over 85; I would expect it would take 100 +.All 20 lugs on mine survived 100lb tq by a bonehead at Discount Tire.

I know I overtorqued it. I was using an unfamiliar torque wrench (my buddies) and when it clicked it only clicked once and then continued to turn, so I kept turning...big mistake...Anyway, the dealership fixed the stud and I'm back in business. Concerning the handling differences between the stock springs and the TRD springs, I really don't notice much of a difference at all. I do like the lower stance and I do notice less dive during moderate to heavy braking, acceleration doesn't seem to 'bob' as much either. Overall, it's worth it, but make sure you have someone install the springs for you that knows what they're doing or that you have a lot of free time on your hands. You have to take apart a good portion of the rear trunk area to access the bolts for the rear spring/shocks.Thanks for all the info, guys!!