GenVibe - Community for Pontiac Vibe Enthusiasts

I have an 05 Vibe and started to get some squeeling from the front passenger side so decided to put on some new pads. Noise went away then came back after about 5k miles even with the lifetime ceramics. The pads were actually showing signs of chipping. Took it to a shop and asked them to take care of it and they put new pads and cut the rotors. They said the rotors were glazed over. Brought the car home sounding much better but now only a couple of weeks later it is worse than ever. Its now making a Creaking sound on rotation when the brake is applied and occasionally gets a chirp when driving. I checked them again and only found that the brass clips had broken tabs and had alot of side to side play(as far as hitting the rotor) which lead me to believe that that was the only problem. Bought new clips, installed. Still have the Creaking while breaking and it is on rotation....help. Dont know what to do next. I am thinking new rotor or bleed brakes. before i do any more hoped to get some input. Thanks in advance.Vibe Raider

When you did the work, did you remve the slide pins, clean and re-lube them?? Or did you just replace the pads and go? I had a noise VERY similar (which you could search for the post, but ultimately what I did/found below, fixed it)If I were you, I would do a FULL tear down, inspection and clean up... Take a look at this.. http://forums.genvibe.com/zerothread?id=30457Pads sometimes chip, espically if you pick up a rock or something... Would a lodged rock be a possibility? Lifetime pads are not the best idea, to be honest, they are HARD, they may last forever, but they also chew through rotors faster and make NOISE... lol.

think i may also bleed the brakes is there a special method here with the ABS. Someone was telling me you have to unhook the Battery. Any ideas, thanks

Quote, originally posted by Vibe Raider »think i may also bleed the brakes is there a special method here with the ABS. Someone was telling me you have to unhook the Battery. Any ideas, thanksNope, no special method... What are you going to use to bleed the brakes? I use a pop bottle and about 2' of tubing, I can do it by myself that way.. You usually want to start with the corner farthest away from the master cylinder and work to the corner closest, I guess that would be the only "special method" involved... If you are going to bleed, you might as well flush to, consider Valvoliene Synpower fluid, it's a good "better than stock" fluid... http://www.valvoline.com/pages...ct=51You would want to buy the quart size for a flush....

I havent even had a chance to check it yet. I recall seeing a post on here about someone getting a weird noise and they found that there wasnt even pressure in the line. they also mentioned that they could hand push the caliper back flush. I am assuming they were talking about the spot where you would normally use a c-clamp. I am going to have to check it asap. I thought there was only 1 line on each side that you had to bleed. Hope I dont sound like an idiot here but are there any post with pics on the job. I will have to search it. Thanks.

Quote, originally posted by Vibe Raider »I havent even had a chance to check it yet. I recall seeing a post on here about someone getting a weird noise and they found that there wasnt even pressure in the line. they also mentioned that they could hand push the caliper back flush. I am assuming they were talking about the spot where you would normally use a c-clamp. I am going to have to check it asap. I thought there was only 1 line on each side that you had to bleed. Hope I dont sound like an idiot here but are there any post with pics on the job. I will have to search it. Thanks.There is one bleeder per CORNER... Or 2 lines per side...If you find there isn't pressure at a corner, it's likely that a bleeder came lose and you lost the fluid and had/have been moving air insted of fluid. I've found lose bleeders before.. but, if you had a pressure lose, you would definitly notice in braking performance.. As far as compressing the caliper, I didn't need to use a C-clamp when I did the fronts on my Vibe, just good steady pressure, pulling the caliper towards me while it was still bolted to the car..... The piston in the caliper pushes the caliper AWAY from the rotor (looking at it's overall movement on the slide pins) and at the same time pressed the inside pad aginst the rotor, and PULLING the outside pad aginst the rotor... No, no idoits here, just people learning....

I don't know if this has been mentioned, but you might want to take out a bit of the brake fluid from the reservoir with a turkey baster before pushing in the calipers to avoid any overflow (depending on how full the reservoir is).

Quote, originally posted by NibCrom »I don't know if this has been mentioned, but you might want to take out a bit of the brake fluid from the reservoir with a turkey baster before pushing in the calipers to avoid any overflow (depending on how full the reservoir is).good point... that I forgot to mention...

Just curious. I am about to bleed the brakes finally. If i find that there was air in the lines wouldnt that affect all the brakes?Cant figure why it would just be the front passenger side acting up. just an idea. This brake thing is killing me. The slide pins move freely btw. Ev erything from what i can see is normal. Any extra thoughts on this.... Thanks

Ok. so I jacked up the front and put it in drive...I know, not the safest thing to do. Anyways, looking at the caliper while the wheels spinning. There is a noticable shifting happening. The caliper is sliding back and forth on the slide pins roughly an 1/8". Dont know if there should be any movement like that but checked the other side and only notice a slight movement while spinning. Any thoughts?....... I would think this means the rotor may be warped a little. But not sure. When i take the tire off. The caliper comes off pretty simple. Thought it would be a little more secure...???

Quote, originally posted by Vibe Raider »Took it to a shop and asked them to take care of it and they put new pads and cut the rotors. They said the rotors were glazed over. Brought the car home sounding much better but now only a couple of weeks later it is worse than ever.Perhaps take it back to the professionals that were paid to "take care of it". They may be able to diagnose it, if not warranty it.

Im on my own and its no better yet...........

I bled the brakes and no difference. I was still thinking maybe the rotor. Because of the way the caliper moves back and forth while tire is spinning. I got new rotors and replaced the creaking one first and noticed right away that it got rid of all the back and forth movement in the caliper, But still think there is a slight sign of that noise still. Not sure will have to drive it a little more. i will reply back after a day of driving. Im crossing my fingers One more thing i did notice I do not hear it when jacked up in drive while applying the brakes. Only when its actually stopping the weight of the car I guess. More Strain.?

Warped rotor? causeing the side to side motion... Do you feel it in the pedal? also, do you torque your lugnuts? If not you should be.. it's can actually extend the life of your rotors, due to warping. 75-80ft/lbs for lugs on a vibe, and only a 20$ TW needed...

Good news and bad news Bad news is the noise has not stopped Good news is I Have a completely new Brake job.HEEELLPPPPPPPPP???????????????.If this wer back in the ole days I would simply just hear my Dad say "go Get me a Hammer". Some how whatever it was got fixed with a Hammer.

Is this the same noise you guys had?

I fixed it. I did get new pads and the rotors lathed down about 3 months ago. I greased up the pads and pad holders today and the noise has gone away. Where the pads contacted the pad holders it was bare. Here are some pictures.

I've always cleaned and lubed all pad contacting points. I don't like having to go back into a job.