Keeping A List Of Parts and How-To's For The 2003-2008 Pontiac Vibe

[nerdydaddyo]

I'm trying to keep a master list of all parts and how-to procedures that I've utilized on my 2003 Pontiac Vibe base model with six speed manual transmission coversion. I will edit as I have new updates. Hopefully this is useful to others!



Parts used for my six speed manual transmission conversion:

Exedy Clutch Kit KTY14 (remember, you're going to a six speed manual transmission from a five speed manual transmission, so you need the clutch kit for the GT even though you have a base model)

NAPA Flywheel 88244 (the only thing that matters here is the motor, not the transmission, so select base model when purchasing)

Manual Transmission Output Shaft Seal Left (Driver Side) NAPA SKF 13616 (it is IDENTICAL to what is in both the five speed and six speed manual transmission; I do NOT recommend the one that National Oil Seals offers)

Manual Transmission Output Shaft Seal Right (Passenger Side) National Oil Seal 710110 ( I chose this because again the one they listed looked nothing like what was in it before; specs match up)

Rear Main Oil Seal NAPA Altrom Imports Brand ATM 2112404 (says KD as manufacturer, Japanese made, much nicer than original)

CV Axle Left (Driver Side) NAPA 954230 (keep in mind that the five speed manual transmission CV axle on the left side is too LONG by millimeters for a six speed conversion; you MUST purchase this CV axle for the six speed manual transmission); if NAPA does not have it. it's simply a reboxed Cardone A1 Reman, part number 60-5229. A longer axle is worse than a shorter one as it is adding extra pressure against the transmission and wheels.

5 speed manual transmission axle length: 25 1/2"
6 speed manual transmission axle length: 25 5/16"

CV Axle Right (Passenger Side) NAPA 954231 (make sure you have ABS as these are intended for ABS models, both sides); if NAPA does not have it. it's simply a reboxed Cardone A1 Reman, part number 60-5230 ***hold off on this one; looks like it needs a special bracket specific to the GT engine***
In this case, the five speed manual transmission CV axle on the right side is too SHORT by 1/2". This may not be a major concern provided you have the correct CV axle for the left side. It is 1/2" of play, but unfortunately the six speed manual transmission CV axle on the right side is specific to the GT engine 2ZZ-GE due to a bracket located on the back of the engine block that bolts into a bearing on the axle. The bolt holes needed to add the bracket are NOT on the 1ZZ-FE engine and therefore the right side 6 speed axle cannot be used on it. Best advice is to reuse the 5 speed axle on the right side.

5 speed manual transmission axle length: 36 1/16"
6 speed manual transmission axle length: 36 9/16"

Redline Mt-90 Synthetic Manual Transmission fluid (I bought 3 quarts, the transmission holds a little over 2 quarts)

Doorman 963-010 front underside splash guard rivets (these are a more solid replacement for the original rivets)


Other parts not related to the transmission conversion:

GM Pontaic Vibe Front Premium All Weather Floor Mats Graphite part number 12498520 (these are a MUST if you want both awesome look and excellent floor coverage)

Philips VisionPlus 9003 headlight bulbs (set of two; you always want to have matching bulbs and change both left and right at the same time, even if one is still good)

AC Delco 15-4851 factory OEM AC Compressor Clutch Kit GM part number 88972204

Autocraft AC3270 AC Clutch Spanner Wrench (you absolutely need this to remove the AC Compressor Clutch plate: there is no other way)

Craftsman Professional Retaining Snap Ring Pliers 47412 (again, you will need something like this for the AC Compressor Clutch Kit replacement)

Denso Radiator 221-0514

NAPA Cabin Air Filter 224871

NAPA Gold Oil Filter 1394 (at least the Gold version, but there is also a more expensive Platinum too. The important thing about these filters is that they are made by WIX. WIX makes the best filters PERIOD.)

NAPA Gates Upper and Lower Radiator Hoses

Zerex Asian Vehicle coolant

Carquest branded 12 oz can of R134a (straight stuff, no stop-leak)

IDQ GBM-3CS EZ Chill Trigger Dispenser (reusable and very well made; I already owned this prior to the Vibe but thought I'd list it for those in the market for one)

Bosch Icon Wiper Blades: 21A driver side, 18A passenger side

NGK Iriduim IX Spark Plugs 5464 (BKR5EIX-11)

Moto-Gate Mini Cargo Net MTO-05-200 (optional but much better than the factory net; VERY heavy duty and works with the factory D rings) with instructions:

viewtopic.php?f=29&t=44670&p=507767#p507767

Cargo Mat Installation Instructions:

viewtopic.php?f=29&t=44221

[123Vibe]

Great list of information nerdydaddyo......thank you! Can you tell me what the symptoms were for your compressor clutch repair? My 05 has what I describe as a "rattley growl" noise when the AC is on. Was it a reasonable job with the right tools?

[nerdydaddyo]

The symptoms I experienced were the clutch not engaging at all (even with the jumper test). The other way to check is to take the serpentine belt off and use your hand to check for a worn bearing by trying to tilt the AC Compressor pulley in all directions. Any play is indication of a bad bearing. Grinding noise is also a bad bearing. You can hear this by turning the pulley. Given the age of our Vibes and the common issues the AC Compressor Clutch seems to exhibit on all models, it's worth it just to replace the clutch, but ONLY if you can turn the clutch plate by hand. If it doesn't turn freely, you need a new complete compressor. The clutch kit is easy to do provided you have the two tools I listed above (snap ring pliers and spanner wrench). All access is done from passenger wheel side (you do not need to remove the wheel, but removing the splash guard helps). When using that specific snap ring plier set, you want the brass colored straight pins because their tips fit perfectly. In order to disassemble the clutch easily, you will need to remove the three compressor mounting bolts (one on top, two on bottom). However, leave the bottom bolt closest to the drivers side loosely installed when taking out the clutch plate center bolt to keep the compressor steady (IMPORTANT: get the air shims that will either be inside the shaft of the clutch plate or on the compressor shaft: you need to match it/them up with the new ones). When using the snap ring pliers, you want to change the setting to External so you are squeezing the pliers to open the ring. And finally, when reassembling the new kit, make sure the snap rings are completely seated. Walk the snap rings with a flat head screwdriver and tap it all around the face of the snap ring toward the compressor. Use a flashlight to verify seating. And before installing the new clutch plate and bolt, make CERTAIN you have the correct amount of air shims and correct thickness installed in the shaft of the clutch plate (I only had one air shim on mine: some may be different). Let me know if any more info is needed.

[123Vibe]

Thanks again for the information, it is a big help. I will do the checks with the belt removed. It could be a good reason to pick up some new tools!

[nerdydaddyo]

No problem. I did notice over the course of the few weeks after replacing my AC Compressor Clutch kit that the air began to get warm on the passenger side of the car until it slowly worked its way to the driver's side as well until only one vent by the driver's door had any cold air at all coming out of it. That indicates a leak (as did the pressure check using gauges), so I most likely will take it to a shop to find out where the leak is and let them fix it if not too expensive. But for sure do the compressor clutch first so that you know the compressor works and the system CAN cool before taking it to a repair shop, because the shop will charge an arm and a leg to do the compressor clutch kit for you. Best to only be out 130 dollars and a few hours of your time if the system needs more than just a compressor clutch replacement than to be out 1000 dollars which could have been used to fix those extra leaks or replace the drier or condenser. My two cents.

[nerdydaddyo]

Just wanted to give an update on my 2003 Salsamobile. I'm at 209k miles, and am JUST now changing the following Driver's Side parts: Wheel Hub Assembly (Moog LK071), CV Axle (Cardone 60-5229), Axle Seal (SKF 13616), Lower Ball Joint (so easy to replace with the "finger" bolt on design, Beck Arnley 1015320), Outer Tie Rod (Beck Arnley 1015432), and for the first time EVER, I'm giving Raybestos a go; it's the Element 3 series- Rotors, 96934FZN, Calipers FRC11385 N (Left) and FRC11386N (Right), and Front Brake Pads (EHT923H). Rock Auto had all but the Axle Seal; that came from Amazon. The car still runs like a new car, AC still works (I only had to replace the cabin air filter and the known damper door motor awhile back); asides from all of that, I am putting the same brand Redline MT-90 fluid back in the transmission (brand new bottles of it) that I haven't had to change once since my original post (and it never leaked!) and my next job will be the headlights (replace them versus waste money to have them "defogged" again). It's a fantastic car if you take care of it, and it still can clear 30 to 33 mpg. Glad to have been a part of this community all this time!

[tpollauf]

Thanks for the update. It's nice to see members chime in here every now & then (9 years for you on this post) to show the reliability and ease of repairs these vehicles offer. Keep on driving it for another 10-15 years. I'll likely hang onto both of mine till I leave this earth That should translate to 25+ years if I'm lucky

[nerdydaddyo]

I am seriously considering picking up another Vibe and having a set of them myself. It's a toss up between the AWD 2003-2008 or the 2009-2010 final years with the updated design. If anyone has any feedback on either of those options I'd love to hear it. I have enough room left in my driveway for one more.

[nerdydaddyo]

Update: do NOT get rid of your factory headlight assemblies. Have them restored; Walmart does it for 40 bucks using Cerakote. You are going to have the worst time trying to replace them. ANYTHING out there aftermarket is a gamble. I bought a set of two "Eagle Eyes" branded headlight assemblies and failed my state inspection because they were pointed straight down and the adjuster screws did nothing. Also, the rubber boot that seals around the headlight bulb and plug, you absolutely need the original because it locks on there. After tons of research, Stanley of Japan was the original manufacturer of the headlight assemblies on the Pontiac Vibe. They also made the rubber boots. So what I did was some online digging and I found a PERFECT replacement rubber boot and I have it in my head to order a second as a backup. It is a Toyota part 90075-65002. I have no idea what vehicle it went to, but it fits our factory headlight assemblies and I have it installed as we speak. If you try to find that Stanley of Japan original boot, you won't. And if you need headlight assemblies, go to a salvage yard or online and make them own VERIFY that the word Stanley appears in the bottom inside corner of the lens (it may also appear on the black plastic area of the rear of the housing too). Should be Stanley 01-13 R for right/passenger side and 01-13 L for left/driver side. I threw my headlights away and there was nothing wrong with them except needing refinishing. It took a lot of work to find GENUINE replacements. Hopefully this helps someone not make the same mistake. Also, SAE number is on the top of the lens. I will post photos when I get time to resize them so they meet the 1mb limit.