TOPIC: Installing an Auto Dimming MirrorDIFFICULTY LEVEL: (1 hammer = easy - 5 hammers = pro)TIME REQUIRED: 25-45 minutesTOOLS REQUIRED: #15 Torx Driver, 10mm socket and driverPARTS REQUIRED: Toyota AutoDimming Mirror, P/N# PT374-0C020*As of February 2004, the mirror used in this install is no longer available on the primary market. You can instead get an auto-dimming mirror with integrated compass from BrandSport Inc. for about $239.
http://www.brandsport.com/toy-pt374-120 ... ======STEP 1: REMOVE OEM MIRROR* Using a #15 Torx Bit: remove the screw securing the OEM mirror to the mirror button. The screw is directly underneath the mirror, right on the front of the mount: * With the screw loosened (no need to remove it entirely), slide the mirror off the button, towards the roof of the car. You'll now see this: STEP 2: MOUNT REPLACEMENT MIRROR * Take the replacement mirror, and slide it down, starting at the top, until it won't slide any more. Using the torx nut provided with the mirror, tighten it to the mirror button. DO NOT, however, overtighten. Tighten just enough to keep the mirror from moving when you adjust it. * Now the mirror is mounted. * That was the easy part. Now, wiring the mirror up. STEP 3: WIRING THE MIRROR * I opted to start my wire run at the mirror itself. That way, any slack could be hidden under the dash, rather than trying to shove it above the headliner. Start by plugging the harness into the rear of the mirror: * Then I used the provided clip to hold the wire against the mounting shaft of the mirror: * From there, I loosely ran the wire up into the headliner. I just tucked it under the edge of it, and ran it left over to the A-pillar.* I pulled the A-pillar trim piece off (just snaps on, snaps off!) and followed the existing wire harness running through there, and ran down into the dash. Here's a little factoid: The wire harness traveling down the driver-side A-pillar runs to the moonroof controls (if equipped), and the map light. The harness traveling down the passenger A-pillar is for the antenna.* Now that the wire is in the dash, i had to get on my back, grab a flashlight, and shake the wire (shake it like a Polaroid picture! ), find it, and pull it down.* There were several possible ways to wire this into the system. First thing to keep in mind is that an auto-dim mirror MUST be wired into a switched power source. Wiring it to an always-on source can, and will, eventually drain your battery. I considered the following: - Tap into the already over-tapped radio harnesses - Tap into another circuit using T-taps - Run a new circuit direct off the battery/fuse blockI decided to run a new circuit, but it's MUCH easier than it sound! For just $9 at Pep Boys, I picked up a gadget called "Add-A-Circuit" made by Littelfuse. Here's what it looks like: Now, here's how it works. You remove a fuse from an existing circuit, and replace it with this gadge. Note how the Add-A-Circuit (from now on I'll refer to it as AAC) has two fuses on it. One fuse protects the existing circuit, while the second fuse protects this new circuit. Now, the lead coming out of it is my new power source. The wire from the new mirror has a quick-connect male end, so I crimped another short cable into the AAC, and put a quick-connect female end on it, as you can see here: * Now that I crimped in my new connector for the AAC, I installed it in the fuse block. As already mentioned, I opted not to go with the radio circuit. Yes, it's ignition-controlled, but it's pretty tapped out, which the new radio, the XM radio, and the antenna booster. Granted, they don't draw tons of power, but still, why bother. I opted to go with the circuit for the moonroof, as I know it is ignition controlled, but also, my original plan was to just splice into the moonroof control buttons, before I realized they provide such a long cable with the mirror. The sunroof circuit is on the fuse labeled GAUGE, which includes Gauges and Meters, Back-Up Lamps, Charging System, Power Door Locks, Power Windows, Sunroof, Air Conditioning, and Cruise Control. But I'm confident there's enough power there, because this doesn't draw much, and other members have wired their radar detectors into the same circuit.So, installed, the AAC is very low profile! Very cool IMHO. A worthy investment! Notice the two sideways red 10 amp fuses. That's the AAC. And yes, it's STILL low profile enough to let me snap the cover on! Ok. Now I've got my power, I just need my ground. I considered using the same ground point I did for my turn signals, but opted not to. It was far away, and the ring that's attached to the ground wire seemed to small. So I decided to go behind the kickplate for a ground source. To remove the kickplate, just unscrew the little black plastic nut hiding behind the dead pedal: Now, behind the dead pedal, quite conveniently I might add, there was a screw I used as the ground: Also note the switched power lead right next to it. STEP 4: FINISHING TOUCHES * Reinstall the kickplate* Reinstall the A-pillar trim.* The mirror also came with a handy doodad that snaps on to the top of the mount point, to hide the wire in it: * The wire runs up the shaft of the mirror, into the channel, and up into the headliner. The channel is adjustable and slides to expand to compensate for various sized windshields, and higher or lower mount points in relation to the headliner.* And finally, my installed auto-dim mirror! Note the green LED that indicates the mirror has power and the auto-dim feature is activated (it can be turned off if it starts to dim automatically, but you don't want it to.)
YES!I still visit GenVibe periodically. I have not forgotten about my "original" family over here!
2009 PONTIAC G8
3.6L V6 (256 HP @ 6300 rpm, 248 ft-lbs. @ 2100 rpm)