From the "Why not?" department, decided to add a remote start (for the cold winters). Surprised how easy the steering column was to work on. Wanted to share for those considering the same.
For the remote start, the wiring matched the posted diagram. Best advice, take the wiring harness off the bottom of the key lock cylinder, connections will be a lot easier to make. The most annoying part was hooking up the hood disable switch, mostly due to extra modifications that either need made to the switch or Vibe. Overall if you have a sharp drill bit and paint the hole to prevent rust, the hood switch is not a big task. While running the hood switch wire through the fire wall wiring boot, I ran spare wires for other accessories I may add down the road. Thought about getting a T harness, but the Vibe wiring is pretty straightforward.
Derf wrote:For the remote start, the wiring matched the posted diagram. Best advice, take the wiring harness off the bottom of the key lock cylinder, connections will be a lot easier to make. The most annoying part was hooking up the hood disable switch, mostly due to extra modifications that either need made to the switch or Vibe. Overall if you have a sharp drill bit and paint the hole to prevent rust, the hood switch is not a big task. While running the hood switch wire through the fire wall wiring boot, I ran spare wires for other accessories I may add down the road. Thought about getting a T harness, but the Vibe wiring is pretty straightforward.
Do you remember hooking up the door lock wire in the driver's kick panel? It's supposed to be blue, but there are TWO blue wires.
*edit - oops! It's supposed to be green!
Well how did you test the lock-unlock wires?
Last edited by ken99287 on Fri Jan 24, 2014 7:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.
ken99287 wrote:Well how did you test the lock-unlock wires?
I put my test light's ground clip on one of the bolts under the footrest, stabbed the business end of it into the wire and pressed either lock or unlock. Whichever one lit up when pressing unlock was for unlock, etc. It's best if your test light's probe is needle-sharp so the hole will be tiny.
The wiring diagram he linked to is correct and the one I used for my PKE system, but I checked anyway because it's always possible a mistake was made with the wire colors during assembly.
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The kit I used came with wire ties, I used those plus a few more to tie up the module to a wiring harness coming off the fuse panel above the driver side kick panel. I then tied the wiring out of the way of the brake pedal. The taps off the ignition harness are the hardest to make. I removed a section of insulation of the required wires then soldered the remote start wires were needed. The trick to keep the wires parallel while making connections, this will allow the plug to easily snap in place. Staggering the connections slightly will reduce the wiring bulge, allowing the steering column trim panel to be easily remounted.