'05 M&T overhaul

[vibeance]

Hey everybody, first post here .I got my '05 vibe back in HS and have loved every second behind it. After starting my junior year of college I'm now interested in tweaking some things. My to-do list:Upgrade HU: DONERemove/Upgrade stock amp: DONERemove/Upgrade existing 6.5" sub: DONE*IF you want to skip the details skip to summary at the end:First things first though. As noted I've already installed my new HU and it's fully functional but I want more . First question, I've been looking into harnesses for amp bypass but haven't found one for the '05. All I've found are ones that go to '04. Does anyone now of one? Second I want to trash the existing amp and replace it with an after market just for powering my sub which I'm planning on getting a shallow pioneer 10". (Any thoughts on these?). I'm not planning on waking the neighbors but I deff want more presence then the 6" stock one. I may even consider doing 8". That being said any recommendations on an amp? The reason behind the amp only powering the sub is b/c my HU *should* be able to power my speakers just fine.I plan on removing the cargo trap door that covers the spare tire and making a carpet particle board door where the sub would mount. Similar to this...http://forums.genvibe.com/zerothread?id=38669. Although the location is L5K's idea I want to enhance it by not covering up the sub. So in theory I would make the door that would double as my enclosure. It may be hard to picture but just roll w/ me lol.Lastly I want to remove the stock monsoon sub and its enclosure and replace the panneling w/ a non M&T panneling. Hopefully doing this will make it look like a sub never was there which will give i a niiice clean look. (if you're considering adding a 6" sub in that area I may be willing to trade you the sub/enclosure/panneling for your "unharmed" panneling.) SOOO in summary, I would like to know how to remove and replace the '05 M&T amp. Remove the stock 6" sub and replacing the panneling w/ stock panneling. And then I will make a door/enclosure to mount a new sub in replace of the cargo spare tire door. Also if you skipped the above, recomendations on a *college student's budget* for a sub and amp to power the sub.Bluecrush, Sublimewind, and audiovibe I could really use your help on this one.

[vibeance]

PS: I've been lurking here for the past month so I've read up on alot of threads but w/ how Vibe's vary from year to year not alot has been said on the '05 M&T package and I reeealllly want a good foundation when going into this project.

[audiovibe]

Quote, originally posted by vibeance »I plan on removing the cargo trap door that covers the spare tire and making a carpet particle board door where the sub would mount. Similar to this...http://forums.genvibe.com/zerothread?id=38669. Although the location is L5K's idea I want to enhance it by not covering up the sub. So in theory I would make the door that would double as my enclosure. It may be hard to picture but just roll w/ me lol.Bluecrush, Sublimewind, and audiovibe I could really use your help on this one.Instead of building the enclosure into the spare tire cover you could just make a beauty board with a cutout for the grill.Bypassing the stock amp is fairly easy if you just want to do away with it.Houseofbugs (Tim) had the bypass harness for sale a while ago, I cant remember the part number but it is mostly a PnP solution to bypassing the amp. You will need to repin 4 wires for the rear speakers but that is it. I would be cautious, if you are going to bypass the stock amp replace the stock speakers with 4ohm speakers of you could shorten the life of your radio.The rear panels remove pretty easily, remove the 2 push clips in the panel at the rear most or the floor and pop the panel up. Remove the 4-10mm bolts holding each side panel on and then just pop the panel loose. you will have to open the rear doors and remove the weather stripping on the back edge of the doors. Rotate the side panel up toward the roof and your good to go.

[BlueCrush]

Quote, originally posted by vibeance »Bluecrush, Sublimewind, and audiovibe I could really use your help on this one.Welcome to GenVibe, Garrett! I am honored that you included me with the same sentence as Sublimwind & Audiovibe. They are both Audio Gods. I'm just and audio noob, but I like taking things apart even if I can't them back together again..lol. As you know I am working on my sub project. I plan on taking out the rear sub panel and enclosure this weekend and testing out the new sub. I'll take plenty of pics.

[vibeance]

Quote, originally posted by audiovibe »Instead of building the enclosure into the spare tire cover you could just make a beauty board with a cutout for the grill.Yea I saw that build and it looks freaking awesome! The only thing that's stopping me from doing that, is that I want to retain as much "usability" as possible. (For lack of a better word) the spare compartment door is only held on by a couple bolts to the hinges so swapping it out shouldn't be too hard. The only thing to consider by doing this is to add enough cable slack to be able to open the door and not yank the cables out of the sub.I'm hoping building that wont be too hard, so long as I keep my dimensions right.PS: Can't wait to start the build and upload the pics here and become a full member of genvibe.com

[vibeance]

Quote, originally posted by BlueCrush »Welcome to GenVibe, Garrett! I am honored that you included me with the same sentence as Sublimwind & Audiovibe. They are both Audio Gods. I'm just and audio noob, but I like taking things apart even if I can't them back together again..lol. As you know I am working on my sub project. I plan on taking out the rear sub panel and enclosure this weekend and testing out the new sub. I'll take plenty of pics.Haha imho you're build (if done successfull) is pretty noteworthy. Not to mention somewhat similar to mine .

[vibeance]

UPDATE:Just picked up my MDF board. My hinge idea isn't going to work because of the gap so I will be doing what you did (sort of). Also have my amp installation kit, I'll be putting that in tomorrow and the amp and sub should be here next tues./thurs. when hopefully I'll have the enclosure and wiring done so all I have to do is drop them in. Don't expect pictures until this weekend. It will be the first time I'm unavailing my babe so I want to do so correctly .

[SlammedNiss]

Quote, originally posted by vibeance »Lastly I want to remove the stock monsoon sub and its enclosure and replace the panneling w/ a non M&T panneling.Dibs on the M&T sub panel.

[vibeance]

Quote, originally posted by SlammedNiss »Dibs on the M&T sub panel. :-)Ahh sorry but I couldn't find a harness to bypass the stock amp so what I am doing now is leaving the existing sub and amp as is and just adding another amp to power the sub I'm installing. If I can get my hands on the harness, and some free time, I *may* consider re-wiring it to remove the M&T sub but at the moment it's really not worth the time/money to remove it.

[SlammedNiss]

Quote, originally posted by vibeance »Ahh sorry but I couldn't find a harness to bypass the stock amp so what I am doing now is leaving the existing sub and amp as is and just adding another amp to power the sub I'm installing. If I can get my hands on the harness, and some free time, I *may* consider re-wiring it to remove the M&T sub but at the moment it's really not worth the time/money to remove it.Well, if you ever decide to sell it, lemme know. Would like a little more low end, but don't need to shake my windows. Been there, done that. And I can't utilize the spare tire well, as that's where the suspension setup will go.

[Sublimewind]

Quote, originally posted by vibeance »Yea I saw that build and it looks freaking awesome! The only thing that's stopping me from doing that, is that I want to retain as much "usability" as possible. (For lack of a better word) the spare compartment door is only held on by a couple bolts to the hinges so swapping it out shouldn't be too hard. The only thing to consider by doing this is to add enough cable slack to be able to open the door and not yank the cables out of the sub.I'm hoping building that wont be too hard, so long as I keep my dimensions right.PS: Can't wait to start the build and upload the pics here and become a full member of genvibe.com Idea... mount an amp under the passenger seat, have a small box in the back on a "banana plug" and just unplug it and set it in the garage.. simple.. or get a "truck" box and place it behind your seat in the passenger rear floorboard.. when needed, just toss it in the back, or in the garage/house.. so simple..

[vibeance]

Hey sublime, I've already made my box for the back, i got a shallow sub so it wont be a problem and i can still get to the spare easily. I am waiting for the sub and amp to come in. While waiting I wanted to run the cables so all I would have to do is plug in the amp and sub when they arrive. I only had a short time this morning so I only got the power and aux cables. I've tapped off the ends (for obvious reasons) and rolled them up separate from each other but when I start the car I get a loud buzzing from the speakers from what sounds to be on the right side only, I'm almost positive this is b/c of the proximity of the power cable and that it's not actually plugged into anything but I can't unplug and check at this time as I'm a little busy. I'll post back with results but I was hoping I could get some further explanations before I start checking.

[vibeance]

Update: Apparently the harness came out of my HU a little bit and this was leading to the buzzing. But it's all good now. Just waiting on the amp and sub. Will post with pictures once I get them installed.

[Sublimewind]

yep, beware, MOST noise in systems are the product of poor connections, usually grounds... If you hear a whine in the system when done you most likely would have a bad ground.. A LOT of people put weight on routing RCA's away from power cables, total hogwash.. Some RCAs these days aren't even shielded, just twisted.. lol.. I have some Kicker RCA's that came with an amp wiring kits (they make some of the BEST pre-packaged amp wiring kits BTW) that are just like that..

[vibeance]

*heavy sigh* So i've installed the amp and sub and it the install went perfect. There were no hiccups and it seemed weird that for the first time everything was going right...until it came time to turn it on. The amp has a blue LED that turns on when I turn the car on but it turns off a second or two after. I'll post pics later but here's how I have it set up.The power line comes off my battery and has a 60amp in line fuse.The remote comes off my HU and into the amp.The ground is screwed into the body.

[Sublimewind]

Any fuses blown? Any wires pinched? Disconnect the speakers from the amp and see if it turns on.. These things are usually something simple..

[SlammedNiss]

If your ysing an aftermarket HU, confirm you're using the amp turn-on lead and not the pwr. antenna lead. Also, you can jump 12v from your +battery to your turn-on lead and see if the amp stays on then.

[vibeance]

No fuses are blown. I'll check if disconnecting the sub keeps it on, I've also double checked I'm using the remote and I'll check to jump it if that is the last thing I can do. Any chance my battery isn't strong enough w/ the other amp already connected to it? Or do I need a relay?

[vibeance]

Here is a copy of the useless information I received while talking online to sony's tech support:Quote »Jerry_ > Hi Garrett. Welcome to Sony Online Support. I'm Jerry. Please allow me a moment to review your concern.garrett > Okay it is a little vague. I'm not certain if the model number I entered was correct but here is the link: http://www.sonystyle.com/webap...tionsgarrett > I am using this subwoofer: http://www.sonystyle.com/webap...86659garrett > and this head unit: http://esupport.sony.com/US/pe...LOC=3garrett > I took my set-up to an audio store and had everything confirmed that my wirings are correctgarrett > the in line fuse I use is 60 ampsgarrett > Oh and I'm using the amplifier as bridged and it is only powering my sub so there aren't any other speaker running from itJerry_ > Thank you for waiting, Garrett. I'm sorry that the Car Stereo is turning OFF automatically when the Car is started. I'll be glad to assist you with this.garrett > Thank you, just to confirm it is the amp that is turning off not the head unit.Jerry_ > Thanks for providing the details.garrett > Oh and the amp is not going into a power alert state, and none of the fuses on the outside are blown from what I can seegarrett > No problem Jerry_ > May I know when it last worked as expected?garrett > It hasn't, I installed it this weekend and it never worked.Jerry_ > Okay, Garrett.Jerry_ > It's recommended to contact a professional installer in order to install the Car Stereo.Jerry_ > Since the conenctions may differ from Car to Car, it's recommended to contact them.garrett > I have gone to professionals and the work and wiring I have done has been approved by them.Jerry_ > Okay, Garrett.Jerry_ > I understand that the Amplifier is turning OFF. Not the Head unit. Is that correct?garrett > yesgarrett > The head unit I am using is the sony xplod cdx-gt35UWJerry_ > Thanks for the confirmation.Jerry_ > Does it turn ON when the Car is turned OFF?garrett > it does notJerry_ > Thanks for providing the information.garrett > you're welcomeJerry_ > I would like to forward a link to a page where you can view the information that should resolve the issue.

[SlammedNiss]

Most tech-support I've ever dealt with is pretty useless. I tend to over-think problems, so by the time I contact tech support, I've already done everything they ask me to do.

[audiovibe]

Do you have a multi-meter? Is your power, ground, and remote pulling from the other amp? Are you using the same ground point? Where are you grounded?Did you try the jumper idea SlammedNiss threw out? if you do just remember to unhook the remote wire going into the amp.Did you test your fuse? After visual inspection a fuse can still appear to be good, you really need to test them to make sure.Try removing the RCAs not likely the issue but doesn't hurt to try.Where is the amp mounted?

[vibeance]

Quote, originally posted by audiovibe »Do you have a multi-meter? Is your power, ground, and remote pulling from the other amp? Are you using the same ground point? Where are you grounded?Did you try the jumper idea SlammedNiss threw out? if you do just remember to unhook the remote wire going into the amp.Did you test your fuse? After visual inspection a fuse can still appear to be good, you really need to test them to make sure.Try removing the RCAs not likely the issue but doesn't hurt to try.Where is the amp mounted?1) I do not have a multi-meter.2) I am not grounded at the same point.3) On my vibe there is an open point where I was able to bolt it down directly to the chasis under the driver's seat.4) I haven't tried jumping it. Since this is my first install I'm afraid I'm not sure what that means . 5) What is the best way to about testing the fuses.6) I will test removing the RCA's.I'll post pics of how I have the amp installed as I'm sure it's kind of hard to visualize it.

[vibeance]

Here is a picture of where I have it ground, it looks like its not touching metal but it is. And the connections from left to right are, ground, power, remote, speaker and RCA. I will get a multi-meter and test tomorrow the connections on the amp.Is this a good guide to troubleshoot?http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PxqQC_VHtYc

[vibeance]

I just realized how ****ty quality these pictures are...POS camera.

[SlammedNiss]

To "jump" the wire, just take a small piece of wire and touch both the red wire and blue wire at the same time. Amp should turn on.

[Sublimewind]

Quote, originally posted by vibeance »No fuses are blown. I'll check if disconnecting the sub keeps it on, I've also double checked I'm using the remote and I'll check to jump it if that is the last thing I can do. Any chance my battery isn't strong enough w/ the other amp already connected to it? Or do I need a relay?Did you ever disconnect the sub and try? The remote wire for th amp is simply looking for a 12v signal, which tells the amp to turn on... You can take a short piece of wire and jump from the red power wire, to the blue remote lead and turn the amp on manually What sort of fuse do you have under the hood? Glass Tube? Blade? You need 3 things to turn on an amp, power, ground and remote.. If you satisfy this, it should be on.. IF the speaker(s) are blown or shorted, the amp will b in protect mode.. which is why I asked for you to try with the speakers disconnected..

[vibeance]

BAHHHHWell it has been entirely way too long genvibe!When we last left off the amp wasn't working and I was down on confidence and patience. Then life happened. I got sick, school started to catch up with me and time just slipped away. I eventually returned my amp but couldn't get a replacement until last week. I finally got it wired up earlier this week and tested it out, everything worked! It sounded like utter garbage but it worked. If you remember I was putting the sub in the cargo area floorboard. I had built the floorboard but not an enclosure so I went by home depot and picked up a 12" concrete form tubing and cut out some mdf for the bottom and voila, beauty! Granted I wont win any shows but I consider this a job well done! Sorry for the long post but I thought it necessary to update and say hello to my old friends! I'm going to be starting another thread showing detailed (quality) pictures of my installation. (COMING SOON, i promise).