GenVibe - Community for Pontiac Vibe Enthusiasts

Alright, here's a quick how-to on re-wiring the existing foglamp switch to do what YOU want. (Yes, the one on the turn-signal stalk)There're several ways you can do it.1) The fog-lamp switch is completely independant, on/off irregardless of anything else.2) The fog-lamp switch will control the fogs, but only be active when the parking lights are on.3) The fog-lamp switch will be active only when the car is in IGN or ACC on the key.4) The fog-lamp switch will do any of the above, and be able to be set to factory with the flick of a switch (Good in NJ, or any state where annual inspections check your foglamp operation)First off:You need to get to the wiring harness for the fog-lamp switch, to do this, you need to remove three screws. One on the bottom of the steering column, and two behind the steering wheel itself. To remove the two behind the steering wheel, you'll have to turn it slightly so you can access them. Then, carefully pull the bottom of the steering column off, you may have to drop it down a bit to do this, but it shouldn't be too hard to come off.On the bottom left-handside of the steering column, there's a white connector. On that white connector are two Green/Orange wires. I believe you want Pin 4 (Mike, please go through this and fix wherever I'm unclear!) This wire feeds signal to the foglamp switch, and is fed by the DRL module. We're going to interrupt that!Leaving enough room to do wiring with either side, cut that wire in half. Now, here's where things get optional.Option #1If you want the foglights to run WHENEVER...meaning irregardless of if the key is on, off, or if any other lights are on/off. (NOT RECCOMENDED), then simply ground the wire heading to the steering column. Boom. Fogs whenever.Option #2 The side of the Green/Orange from the steering column gets matched up with the parking lights wire. Mike or I will update this later with the correct wire, as my documentation is not right in front of me. It all gets done at the harness, though.Option #3For this, you will need a SPST relay. You can get an automotive relay at a car-parts store fairly cheap. There should be either four or five pins on the bottom (or wires, if you got it with the matching wiring harness). On the bottom of the relay, as you're holding it, you will see three pins facing the same way, with either one, or two facing at a 90 degree angle. Don't worry, each pin will be labelled on the bottom of the relay.The connections are as follows:30 - Ground86 - Tie in with 3085 - Run to switched power *87 - Run to Green/Orange heading to steering column.* Switched power can be any 12v source. It can be gotten from the ignition harness itself, or from behind the radio, or from the defroster switch (which isn't ALWAYS constant). Once again, i'm away from wiring diagrams, so either myself or Mike will fill this in.Basically, you're using the relay to create a switched ground in a car that otherwise wouldn't have one. Option #4See Option #3, with differences. You will need a SPDT relay, which has five pins, and is numbered 30, 85, 86, 87, 87a. You'll still need the SPST relay, or can use two SPDT relays, as long as one of them has a Normally Open and a normally Closed pin. You'll also need a toggle switch, any on/off will do.What we did on Mikes was wire in a simple on/off toggle switch and placed it in the center console under the shifter, where you could get to it with the pocket open, but it's mostly hidden.So, here goes.Relay #1 (SPDT)30 - Green/Orange in the steering column87 - Green/Orange heading to the dash87a - To 87 of Relay #286 - Tied in with 87a85 - To switchRelay #230 - Ground86 - Tied in with 3087 - To 87a / 86 of Relay #185 - To any 12v source (Ignition/ACC)SwitchPin 1 - To pin 85 of Relay #1Pin 2 - To any constant 12v sourceThis setup will allow you to have the fogs come on with ACC or IGN, and return to factory operation with the flick of a switch. I'll see if Mike can clean up my post and put up some pictures, but i'll also include a diagram of Option #4. Please excuse the crudeness..- Jahntassa

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My fogs operate fine for me unlike a lot of vehicles today in that the switch has to be pressed every time you want them, the Vibes stay on. The only gripe I have and most vehicles do this is when using the brights the fogs go off. My Z24 had this and a simple wire cut and double up on another going to the relay solved this.

The fogs on the Vibe operate the way they should. That's not the issue. Some people want to have the foglights on when the headlights AREN'T on, which is what this addresses. This will also address the fogs turning off with the hi-beams.The reason ALL cars have the foglamps turn off with the high-beams is that in most states you can only have (2) pairs of lights active at any given time. When the hi-beams are on, the foglamps must be off. Granted, you can work around that and nobody will probably care unless you go for annual inspections, in which case they'll check for proper functionality (see option #4)The -easiest- way to solve the problem would be what I posted as Option #2. I'm out of state at the moment, so once I get back to my documentation, I will update the missing wiring colors.

that's exactly what i was looking for! awesome!!!! looks like a great father-daughter project this winter.

I'm gonna go with option #1. Inder Singh

I'm currently wired for option 4 and LOVING IT!

Quote, originally posted by Jahntassa » I believe you want Pin 4 (Mike, please go through this and fix wherever I'm unclear!) Hmmnn....Which wire are we dealing w/ here. I tried a green/orange wire that looked like it could be "PIN 4" ? and it was the right hand turn signal. oops. Which wire do I ground for option 1....i'd rather not butcher up any more trying to do it trying one by one.

Quote, originally posted by Jahntassa »On the bottom left-handside of the steering column, there's a white connector. On that white connector are two Green/Orange wires. I believe you want Pin 4 (Mike, please go through this and fix wherever I'm unclear!) Correct. There are two wires that feed the headlamp circuit. One, Pin 2, is Red/Yellow. That's the output. The second one: Pin 4, is Green/Orange, and that's the input. This is the wire that gets cut. Pin 4 is on an end. If you look at the connector, the top row has only 4 pins, the botom row has 9. Pin 4 is the only Grn/Orn wire on the upper row. As philndz unfortunately discovered, the other Grn/Orn wire controls the RH signal.Quote »* Switched power can be any 12v source. It can be gotten from the ignition harness itself, or from behind the radio, or from the defroster switch (which isn't ALWAYS constant). Once again, i'm away from wiring diagrams, so either myself or Mike will fill this in.I opted to use the power supply for my dimming mirror. Because you only need a very small amount of current to close the coil, you can pull from just about anywhere. If you don't feel like splicing into a circuit, pick up an Add-A-Circuit at pep boys and pull from the fuse block directly.

i didnt think that that'd be a good idea, especially that mom drives the vibie sometimes so when i started doing trd4reel's (my brother's) fog light rewire, i had decided from the start that option 1 wasnt for us... what i found was that the green/orange cut and then spliced in parallel with the green/white wire (the pin directly below the G/O) gave results equivalent to option 2... this G/W wire gave me a "ground" reading when i had the light switch in anywhere but the OFF position... if there is a potential problem with doing it this way that anyone here knows about, please make us aware of it ASAP btw, heres a pic...

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Quote, originally posted by theimportscene »i didnt think that that'd be a good idea, especially that mom drives the vibie sometimes so when i started doing trd4reel's (my brother's) fog light rewire, i had decided from the start that option 1 wasnt for us... what i found was that the green/orange cut and then spliced in parallel with the green/white wire (the pin directly below the G/O) gave results equivalent to option 2... this G/W wire gave me a "ground" reading when i had the light switch in anywhere but the OFF position... if there is a potential problem with doing it this way that anyone here knows about, please make us aware of it ASAP btw, heres a pic...I would solder that connection...

yeah, i took that pic as the solder gun was warmin up

Ahh I see, you will be good to go!

Quote, originally posted by theimportscene »i didnt think that that'd be a good idea, especially that mom drives the vibie sometimes so when i started doing trd4reel's (my brother's) fog light rewire, i had decided from the start that option 1 wasnt for us... what i found was that the green/orange cut and then spliced in parallel with the green/white wire (the pin directly below the G/O) gave results equivalent to option 2... this G/W wire gave me a "ground" reading when i had the light switch in anywhere but the OFF position... if there is a potential problem with doing it this way that anyone here knows about, please make us aware of it ASAP btw, heres a pic...ok, so when you did this, it allows you to swith the fogs on and off at the steering column, but only when there's power to the ignition? is this correct? because that's what i want to do. and this looks relatively simple to do if that's what you're talking about.

Quote, originally posted by trdvibe »ok, so when you did this, it allows you to swith the fogs on and off at the steering column, but only when there's power to the ignition? is this correct? because that's what i want to do. and this looks relatively simple to do if that's what you're talking about. THat's how I'm wired hope...go with option 3 or 4

ok, thanks mike! so i don't need it to go back to factory so #3 looks like the best bet for me!

Quote, originally posted by theimportscene »what i found was that the green/orange cut and then spliced in parallel with the green/white wire (the pin directly below the G/O) gave results equivalent to option 2... this G/W wire gave me a "ground" reading when i had the light switch in anywhere but the OFF position... if there is a potential problem with doing it this way that anyone here knows about, please make us aware of it ASAP I believe you found the correct wire! I think you tapped into the parking-light wire, which is EXACTLY what Option 2 is, I just didn't remember the exact color/placement of the wire. So congrats!

Yeah. It took us a while and we didn't have a repair manual, which tells you what all the wires do, but we did it farely easily.Inder

I have a question reguarding Option 1. If I leave them on and the ignition is off will it CHIME when the door is open? like the regular lights do?

There should a loud piercing sound yes.Inder

Quote, originally posted by zionzr2 »I have a question reguarding Option 1. If I leave them on and the ignition is off will it CHIME when the door is open? like the regular lights do?No, it won't.Because these are now running independent of the headlight system, they aren't tied into the light warning module.The chime only goes off if the headlight switch is on (not the fog). Normally, the DRL module kills the fogs when you kill the heads. Because you've bypassed the DRL module, you've also bypassed that safety net.

Good point. Scratch my theory.Inder

I'm thinking I'll go with option #2.Which wire is the parking light. So, If I understand I cut the green/Orange wire and tap the parking wire?? Which side of the G/O wire i use to tap?

Parking lights should be green/white. There are two green/orange's in that harness. I believe you want the one that's four pins out from the steering column. When you look, you'll see what I mean... You want the side of the wire going to the harness.

I only have a question or two. Based on the image below:Attachment: http://forums.genvibe.com/zero...1.jpgwhat happened to the other ends of the green/white and green/orange wires? How are they spliced? The image, which is a GREAT help, being one dimensional doesn't show where the rest of the wires go. Any help would be greatly appreciated as this is definitely the option I want to go with.

Umm, yeah, I did the stupidest thing, either I deleted all the pics or my dad erased em off the digicam. You may want to PM my brother about this one. His sn on here is "theimportscene"Inder

The green/white wire does NOT get cut. You have to strip back some insulation on that one. The green/orange coming from the dashboard gets taped off and tucked to the side. The green/orange from the harness gets attatched to the stripped back green/white.

great now i know what to do! Now if it will just stop rainin.

Hey Thanks!!!! That's just what I needed to know. Now I've gotta wait three days until Saturday before I can try this out. Anyway, thanks again.

thanks jahntassa! did the easy #2 w/ your directions and importscene's pic! i got some add'l pics too just in case any one wants to see, i'll post those up later.

YES!!!! Just finaly got around to doing this mod and it was so easy I cant believe i waited this long.... (stupid Winters).Went with option #2 and simply cut the G/O wire and used a red(22#-18#) wire tap to tap the slightly larger G/W wire right next to the G/O as shown in the picture. Now Presto I have Fogs when i at least have the Parks on only as well as the highs. Just like I wanted....Took longer to type this than to do the mod WOW!!

I couldn't believe how easy it was myself! I thought it was some big deal, but when I finally realized what to do, it was nothing! Wish I would have done it a long time ago.

Here is a Night shot.

so what i need to do for the fogs to be on while i put the high beams on?

I thought option 2 would work for you, gives you the ability to turn on the fogs whenever the parking lights were on, that would include regular headlights and high beams. Do you want to wire it up so that the fogs come on automatically whenever the high beams are on, or to have the ability to turn the fogs on and off whenever the high beams are on?

I'm all over this...coool mod

I don't mean this to sound romantic or anything, but I love you for that 5 minute mod, jahntassa. It's just as you described. I can't wait for it to get dark. excellent mod.

Also, if you use option 2, you will here the chime because the fogs come on with the parking lights.

First mod - got my screw driver, side cutters, and a wire tap... away we go!This mod is easy to justify. I had this same mod for my Contour - I do a lot of highway and interstate driving (100+ miles a day/ 4days a week) - having tail lights and fog lights on is a great thing - it makes youa lot more visable that having just DRLs - and its much neater than just having your low beams on

I remember when I had my Dodge truck with fogs, all we needed was a jumper in place of the relay. I have NOT seen a wiring diagram for the vibe yet...

If you take the org/grn wireand run it to a relay that grounds that wire when the car is in IGN or ACC on the key the fogs sould go on.Right?GRN/ORG to relayrelay to groundrelay power to ACC via fuse box under dash

I just went with op 3. works great thanks all

I dont mean to bring back the dead.....but......Thanks for the how-to.

will this wiring config. work with 2009 Vibe. 2.4 all manual. no fogs yet. question? which config will work the best? Just wondering about the switching based on no factory fogs installed. also which would be the best fogs ? to fill the factory blanks? i want yellows

I want to do option 2, but how do I know which end of the original fog wire to cut? Edit: Nevermind, I didn't see it had a picture attached until now. THAT'S INCREDIBLY EASY. Doing it first thing in the morning. GREAT SUCCESS!

Thanks to Vibenvy for sending me here. I did the fog light mod to my car this weekend and i'm loving it! I can turn them ON whenever i please regardless of whether i have my high beams on or even with parking lights on or off since i went with OPTION #1. I would like to add that when doing this, the wire that gets grounded is the Green/Orange wire on the left side of the harness when looking forward from inside the car. Basically, the g/o wire where there's only 2 wires available.

I would also like to clarify that after cutting this g/o wire, you must ground it from the harness itself NOT back to the oem wiring that goes back under the steering column as someone else mentioned above i believe. Found this out when i pulled out the whole g/o connector from that harness and grounded it and nothing happened. The g/o connector MUST STAY in the oem harness and be grounded in order for them to turn on independently. Hope this helps. I will try n upload pics of my finished product whenever i have a chance.

Here's a few pics i took when doing this on my 03' Vibe GT in case anyone is unclear. Basically i went with option #1 which seemed the easiest. Hope it helps anyone in the future. [img][IMG]http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z37 ... 163222.jpg[/img][/img]

[img][IMG]http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/z37 ... 190738.jpg[/img][/img]