GenVibe - Community for Pontiac Vibe Enthusiasts

I have an IPOD and like many people here I was not satisfied with the low audio quality of an FM transmitter. Then ^&% AUX button always staring at me. I read all of the previous posts on this forum and others and it ruled out a lot of ideas I had.I removed the radio (6 CD changer) from the car and opened up the top(only one screw). I reasoned that the CD portion of the radio must be on a different circuit board than the radio and if I could tap into the line audio then I could switch between the CD and the IPOD. I took some cheap headphones, connected the headphone ground to the chassis and started probing likely places. I found the two left and right signal wires. They are pins 1(left) and 3(right) in the attached photo. I cut the wire from my cheap headset and spliced it into those wires. I connected the ground to the chassis.It worked!!! Absolutely no noise, and a drastic difference especially in the bass and in quite sections compared to the FM modulators. I need to install a switch so that I can change between the CD input and IPOD. Here is a Picture. The whole process only took about four hours and some of that was because it was my first time removing the radio.Enjoy

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Another Pic

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Wow. Way to go!I wonder if the single CD is a similar beast in its construction. I may just have a new project. I have my older Clarion in the event that it doesn't work, I guess. Thanks for the info and welcome to the site!

My first thoughts - Good Find!But the more I think about this, a couple of questions/comments.First, you shuld look at some sort of filter/protection on your line in. Static discharge could fry the radio. Also look at some ferriod (sp?) beads on the line in to prevent feedback on the circuit.Second, it looks like you tapped into the line in for the CD into the internal amp. If so, without a CD in and spinning in the radio, how to you get the radio to switch over from radio to CD? On my unit (single disc M&T) you can't switch over unless a CD is in the deck.

Quote, originally posted by CMcGowan »First, you shuld look at some sort of filter/protection on your line in. Static discharge could fry the radio. Also look at some ferriod (sp?) beads on the line in to prevent feedback on the circuit.Maybe, I guess time will tell. I did go into this project prepared to replace the head unit if things went horribly wrong. I did my initial testing with a cheap CD player as the input source, not wanting to risk my iPOD. Quote, originally posted by CMcGowan »Second, it looks like you tapped into the line in for the CD into the internal amp. If so, without a CD in and spinning in the radio, how to you get the radio to switch over from radio to CD? On my unit (single disc M&T) you can't switch over unless a CD is in the deck.Yes you are correct it works the same way with the 6 cd one, there must be a CD in the unit when listening to the exernal input. It spins, but you cannot hear it. And yes it is tapped in before the before the amp, allowing the volume control to the head unit to work. I have the volume on the iPOD tunred up to maxium and it seems to match the CD level input.

Quote, originally posted by CMcGowan »Second, it looks like you tapped into the line in for the CD into the internal amp. If so, without a CD in and spinning in the radio, how to you get the radio to switch over from radio to CD? On my unit (single disc M&T) you can't switch over unless a CD is in the deck.Yeah, if you look carefully, you can see he cut the lines going to the output of the changer. That confused me too, at first.Definitely an interesting, simple, and fairly easy idea! Now you just need to work on that switch.. Are you thinking of like a radioshack, DPDT switch or something? (I think that's what i'm thinking of..)

Quote, originally posted by CMcGowan »First, you shuld look at some sort of filter/protection on your line in. Static discharge could fry the radio. Also look at some ferriod (sp?) beads on the line in to prevent feedback on the circuit.I wouldn't worry about static discharge in this setup. Shouldn't be a problem. I would however recommend you put a ferrite bead in series with the inputs.Nice work! I don't have the M&T package, but I might be looking into a used cd changer to see if I can get it to work on the regular single disc changer.

Great job!! Oh, and welcome!

Quote, originally posted by Jahntassa » Are you thinking of like a radioshack, DPDT switch or something? (I think that's what i'm thinking of..)Yep, that's what I had in mind, or maybe a micro relay inside the head unit, that way I would only need one control wire outside the unit.

Quote, originally posted by ebslopp »I wouldn't worry about static discharge in this setup. Shouldn't be a problem. I would however recommend you put a ferrite bead in series with the inputs. Here in South Florida it is so humid that static is rare. What would a "ferrite bead" do for me?

I did this same sort of trick on my Honda. It was an in-dash CD-player with an add-on tape deck. I figured out which wires were the analog audio outputs and soldered a set of RCA's to it. Now whenever I wanted to switch to that Aux source, I took an old CD-Tape adapter with the wire cut off and stick it in the deck. The HU, think its playing an endless tape, and the audio from the tape deck is "mixed" in with the audio from the RCA's. But the tape deck in theory should be putting out nothing.. so all we hear is the RCA aux input.not the most elegant solution, but it worked.Why didn't i use the CD/tape adapter to beign with? Because i hate wires hanging out around the Dash.

Quote, originally posted by Vibration »Here in South Florida it is so humid that static is rare. What would a "ferrite bead" do for me?The ferrite bead would prevent any type of electromagnetic interference from entering the circuit, sometimes wires tend to act like an antenna and pick up radio signals. But actually, the more I think about it, the headunit probably already has these in place. So you most likely don't need them.

I think this is the best idea I have seen on this furum in a long time I would like to used on my XM Roady satilite to get a better sound

Yeah, a little dual-throw relay would work REALLY well in that situation. Radioshack parts are fun. The little ferrite coil is definitely a good idea.. it might not seem to affect it either way..but it never hurts, either.Great mod! Now if only I can do something similar with video and my NAV screen!

you guys think this is possible in a single disc in-dash cd player. by the way. is their anyplace where i can learn HOW to take my in dash cd player out?

Quote, originally posted by hwm187 »you guys think this is possible in a single disc in-dash cd player. by the way. is their anyplace where i can learn HOW to take my in dash cd player out?Open up the top and and look inside, if you see a flat white pin 15 connector like in my pic, with a black wire connected to pin 1 then it is probably the same. If not, you can try my headphone technique to locate the wires. Also see http://forums.genvibe.com/zero...29847 for how to remove the radio (step #2).

I plan to try the above process with my single disc. I just need to remember to bring it home sometime. I hope it works. That would be really nice!

hey man, if it works, let me know all about it.

I just finished the mod. I put in a relay in back of the head unit and control it with a switch on the dash. It works very well. Now I can switch between the CD player and the auxiliary input. Here is a pic of the relay;

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Here is the switch, the top one is for CD/AUX, the bottem one is to disable the daytime running lights.

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excellent tip. My wife has been complaining that the iTrip i got for her iPod sounds like crap. Might just try this out this weekend.

Nice Job. Got any part numbers on the parts used? Looks like Rat Shack parts.

Quote, originally posted by CMcGowan »Nice Job. Got any part numbers on the parts used? Looks like Rat Shack parts.Thanks, Yes they are RS parts.Here are step-by-step instructions:1) Remove the Head Unit. See this link for a how to remove the radio; http://forums.genvibe.com/zerothread?id=8510 2) Open the top of the unit, unscrew one small screw in back and pry open.3) Locate the flat 15 pin white flat connector.4) Cut the fist wire on the left (pin 1 black wire)5) Cut the third wire from the left (pin 3 white wire)6) Strip all four of the ends about 1/4 of an inch.7) Strip the ends of two audio cables8) Solder the outside ground wires together and solder them to the chassis.9) Solder one audio cable to the ends connecting to the CD board, red to black and white to white (the wires going to the white connector on top)10) Solder the other audio cable to the lower board, red to black and white to white (the wires going down into the unit)11) Tie knots in the audio cables to keep the wire from being disconnected if they are pulled and feed it out the back of the unit.12) Attach the relay to the back of the unit. I sanded both surfaces and used foam double face tape. Epoxy glue could also be used. I used a relay similar to the one below because I had it lying around;10-Amp Plug-in Relay-12VDC $8.39Brand: RadioShackCatalog #: 275-218Model: 275-218However, if I were to it again I would buy the mini relay below, because it could fit inside the head unit, instead on mounting it externally as I did.; Mini 5A DPDT Relay $5.29 Brand: RadioShack Catalog #: 275-249 Model: 275-249 12a) Alternatively, instead of the relay both audio wires could be cut longer and connect to a double pole switch like this one:DPDT Mini Toggle Switch $4.99RadioShackCatalog #: 275-66313) Connect the relay as shown in the wiring diagram.14) Run the Aux audio cable and the power cable through the back of the head unit with a knot to keep it from being pulled loose and then down to bottom of the center console or wherever you need it.15) Run the power wire to a switch. The one I used was;SPDT Flatted Metal Level toggle Switch $3.49 RadioShackCatalog #: 275-63516) I mounted this switch to a blank plate by the coin holder.17) Connect the other terminal of the switch to a +12v supply, I used a red wire from the OBD2 PORT. For good measure I used a 1 amp in line fues like this one; Inline Fuse Holder $2.29 Radio Shack Cat # 270-1238;Replace everything and you are done. Also, tape or heat shrink all connections. The total cost for everything is around $15. Notes: I am very pleased with the way this project turned out. I was concerned that adding the relay and/or having it outside the radio enclosure would introduce engine noise. Which is why I used shielded audio cable for the entire audio path, and soldered all of the grounds to a single point. The result is that there is absolutely zero engine noise. Switching from my iPod to the 6 CD changer is as easy as flipping the switch, however, I lower the volume when switching to avoid a spike sound when the relay engages. The overall project is not that difficult although it may seem that way. I have poor soldering skills and had no problems. The hardest part was finding the correct audio path and actually trying it to see if any unexpected problems would arise.Please let me know if anyone else tries this or if anyone has a question.

Thanks for the step by step detail. When I find the time I will do this.I just wish that this forum would let you save threads like this one as a favorite. so it is easier to find next time.

Who's the Moderator for Audio/Electrical? They should be able to sticky this at the top of the list.

just to make sure, this should be possible with the 1cd unit as well right ? i believe that the same thing should be happening, theres gotta be a pre amp out from the cd heading to the radio.

Quote, originally posted by Jahntassa »Who's the Moderator for Audio/Electrical? They should be able to sticky this at the top of the list.Done...To answer the question about the single disc, yes. In theory it should be possible. I've been meaning to try it on mine, but I've been too busy. One of these days I'll get it done and I'll be sure to post here when I do.

please do, i would assume you are more experienced with this than i, but i'm thinking by this weekend i will open it up to have at it anyway

Oh, don't know about more experienced (don't know how much experience you have) but I have done work like this a bit. Good luck with it if you do try this weekend. Hope it turns out well.

Hey nice to see I'm not the only one hard wiring their Ipod into their vibe. I figure what the hell If BMW has a kit that can do it I can figure out a way to get it done as well. I'm going about mine a different using the car dock connector for it's hardwired power source. and a Monster cable line feed for signal transfer. They have universal wireless steering wheel mounted remotes that I'm looking into as well for functionality. I know Monster cable also already has a remote specifically to work with the Ipod. So we'll see how it all turns out.

Vibration--- great work. I would have attempted to do that myself, except neither of my friends has a soldering iron.. I have an iPod mini and wanted to install it in my 2005 Vibe with a single CD player with a CD/AUX button on it... i did some research and found this[http://www.discountcarstereo.com/Search ... goryID=814] website with lots of auxiliary input choices. Turns out that my all i had to do was to remove the radio and plug this thing into the 12-pin connector and use a headphone to RCA adapter for the iPod.. now it's a matter or hitting the CD/AUX button to switch between the CD and the iPod.

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Quote, originally posted by quietcoolone »Vibration--- great work. I would have attempted to do that myself, except neither of my friends has a soldering iron.. I have an iPod mini and wanted to install it in my 2005 Vibe with a single CD player with a CD/AUX button on it... i did some research and found this[http://www.discountcarstereo.com/Search ... goryID=814] website with lots of auxiliary input choices. Turns out that my all i had to do was to remove the radio and plug this thing into the 12-pin connector and use a headphone to RCA adapter for the iPod.. now it's a matter or hitting the CD/AUX button to switch between the CD and the iPod. Don't suppose you've bought one of those units and actually have it working? If you do, then that's pretty amazing. If you haven't bought one yet, don't bother. They don't work. We've been over this umpteen times, which is why the thread exists. Aux button or not, the base radio can't have an aux-input except through this method.

Quote, originally posted by Jahntassa »Don't suppose you've bought one of those units and actually have it working? If you do, then that's pretty amazing. If you haven't bought one yet, don't bother. They don't work. We've been over this umpteen times, which is why the thread exists. Aux button or not, the base radio can't have an aux-input except through this method.Any chance there was a change in the 2005 head units?

I ordered the updated GM Auxiliary input adapter and an RCA to 3.5mm plug found here and received it yesterday-- i was eager to finally get rid of the annoying FM Modulator-- 15 minutes later and voilà! my iPod sound phenomenal. Attached is a picture of the radio with a 24 and 12-pin plug on the back.. the Auxiliary input plug goes into the 12-pin connector on the left side of the radio. If anyone decides to order make sure you ask for newest version of the interface.http://www.discountcarstereo.c...D=627

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Quite,Great news that it works on your '05. I think that the 03-04' are different radios. However, there is another thread here on a devise that seems to make the 03-04 units AUX functional. If they cure all of the noise problems, it is a great alternative to my DIY method.

I just read somewhere that ALPINE has now came out with a HU that allows direct connection of the IPOD. (kind of like the BMW set up I assume) Anyone hear anything more on this?

I've heard that Alpine's solutions sucks. Apparently you can only search through 255 songs, albums, or artists.

When i first called the company from which i purchased the solution for my 2005 , they asked if i was interested in the [KCA420i][/http://www.discountcarstereo.com/detail.aspx?ID=595] I had not heard of it so i asked--- They said it would allow me to control the iPod from the radio -- unfortunately not the radio my car. Apparently you have to purchase (or already have) an alpine radio -- needless to say i did not want to change the radio unless i had no other option.

I know someone asked about the single CD unit a while ago. Here is a post from someone who used my method on a '04 stock CD/AM/FM/Cassette player. They also report zero engine noise.matrixowners.com

So has it been confirmed for sure that this MOD will work with a Single CD unit?I have a 2003 GT single CD unit and have been itching to get my ipod plugged in. I'm tired of the itrip.If it is possible, I might try to throw a document together of instructions as I MOD mine based on all the good information located in this forum, then repost it back up here.... Any objections to that?Thanks for any assistance.Rob Sullivan

Check this out. http://www.cartoys.com/cartoys...86733/

Only works with an alpine system.

Bringing this back alive... I did the modification to get my MyFi XM radio into the stock radio. All is fine as long as I do not have the MyFi plugged into the power source. I tapped power and ground in directly from behind the radio, but when connected, i get a high pitched whine that DOES NOT change with engine speeds. Infact i get the noise regardless if the car is on or off. As long as i have the MyFi plugged into power, im getting some sort of feedback.Any advice? Ground loop Isolator?

I have a couple of questions and suggestions. First the questions:Did you use a switch or relay and where did you mount it?Did you use insulated audio cables for all of the audio pathways?Do you hear the noise with your XM unplugged from the audio cable?Suggestions:Try another battery powered audio source (ipod, portable cd/tape player) to see you can get a clean signal to your head unit.Ground all of connections to the radio chassis.Check all connections to see if the somehting is touching ground that should not be.I do not like using noise suppressor, they can partially mask the symptoms, but they do not cure the source of the problem. Being that your noise is not coming from the engine, I don't know if it would even help.Can you share some pics, it might be helpful.Good Luck.

I appreciate the response.I used a switch without a relay. The swicth is located basically in the pocket below the gear shift lever. That is also where the XM plugs in.I used insulated 2 conductor wire plus ground. Its basically two 18 gauge wires, plus a ground lead, all wrapped up in a aluminum insulator. Pretty decent cable used for creating RCA's and the like. I am cutting out the idea of indced noise from the RCA/s based on the fact that the CD player signal also runs through the switch and lines. It does NOT have the same noise issue.I will test my ipod today and see what i can find. Power and ground are tapped into the stock GM radio harness right behind the radio. The ground of the line level feeds are grounded exactly to the same place in the instruction photos.Maybe I should try grounding to the chassis as well.No photos at this point, but I will see what I can do this weekend

Will,I am not clear on where you connected the foil insulation. I would recommend connecting it only to the radio chassis and nowhere else, or use it ground your xm, but not ground the xm to anything else. My idea is to eliminate multiple ground points.Since you are getting noise with the engine off, I am wondering about it coming from the xm itself. Satellite signals are pretty high frequency. If you can, I would start at the radio and make connections with the radio on and see what wire or component is causing the problem.Maybe Jahntassa can offer you some suggestions?P.S.I just reread your first post, I don't know about your particular xm unit, are you saying that you do not have the noise when it is not plugged in? Do you mean it can run on an internal battery or it just doesn't work until you plug it in. If the former is true then, I bet using the same ground as you cable will work.For what it is worth, I have absolutely zero engine noise on mine, even when I plug the Ipod in for power through the 110v plug.Lastly, the audio cable I used had each wire individually insulated with copper strand. I don't think it that would make a difference though.

Ahh, my apologies...Ok, foil insulation: Basically its wrapped around two plastic insulated 18guage strands and the wire ground. The wire ground is not contained in any plastic insulation and buts up against the foil. Around the foil is gray plastic insulation. Its basically like a heavy insulated RCA wire with a second core wire. The ground is soldered to the ground shown in the pictures beforeCorrect, i'm using a MyFi with its own battery. When i use it battery powered, it is fine. As soon as i plug it into 12v, i get the high pitched whine, regardless of whether the engine is running or not. The noise is not effected by engine rpm.The 12v ground is in the radio harness. Maybe i need to ground the 12v source to the exact same location as the signal path ground, but you would think they are close enough.

I'd bet it's a ground loop problem. Try inserting a ground loop isolator (for line level audio signals) between the MyFi and the radio. I'll bet you that this will eliminate the problem.Note that it's possible that the ground loop is caused by the (poorly designed) 12v power adapter for the MyFi.Jeff

After reading this thread I wanted to see what I could do... Except I wanted to keep all my modifications internal to the Head Unit. Including the 12Volt source.Here is how I did it...http://forums.genvibe.com/zerothread?id=14912(just cross posting so all information on this mod is in the same thread)

Anyone hooked up an iPOD to a Vibe WITH the navigation system? (direct wire - not the FM transmitter)