GenVibe - Community for Pontiac Vibe Enthusiasts

yah normally it would be cool if you hear your car zooming.... on the outside that is..... but not if its from the system! so i installed my basslink today... i ran the power on the left and then spliced into the rear speakers on the right. i was going to tap the rear speakers behind the deck... but i didn't know which wires to use.... so i tapped the right in the middle of the rail of the front passenger door.... and the left side on the rail of the driver side door... i had to run that speaker wire from the sub under the dash to the other side. now the sub bumps pretty well... but then i test drove the car again and i can hear my sub zooming whenever i accelerate or decelerate ... what the heck! anyone have any ideas? it could be the splices on the left side.... i tried to position it a few inches from the power.... im not too sure...

I do not know much about this baselink thing but what you are describing sounds like a bad ground. When you say the sub is zooming, you mean is you can hear it rev with your engine right? If it is, you need a better ground.

yes i hear it when the car increases or decreases rpms.... i thought that i used a good ground... i used a bare bolt in that area that has the clips for the child safety seats. could i be getting the interference because i ran the speaker wire for the left speaker under the accelerator pedal?

I'd agree, sounds like a ground issue.If you run the power off one circuit, and the ground off another, you run the risk of a ground loop.I had that problem with my skyfi. It was powered by the radio harness, but grounded direct to the body. Caused horrible interfernce with m AM band. Rewired it so it grounds within the radio harness, problem solved.Try getting a ground right on the body...for example, if you remove the spare wheel tray, I think there's a bolt or two under there you might be able to use.Otherwise, keep trying different ground points, or try a GLI - ground loop interceptor, which may fix the problem, available at your local radio shack.Perhaps Jahntassa can provide better info than me though. I just speak from personal experience, not from knowledge.

Your standard groundloop intercepters probably wouldn't work in that case, because it's running speaker-level and not line-level. The linelevel ones are easy to find, speakerlevel isn't. It could be a bad ground, but are you ABSOLUTELY sure you tapped the correct speaker wires? I'd try changing the ground, try getting a short self-tapping screw and ground DIRECTLY to the metal in the spare compartment. If that doesn't alleviate your problem, then it could be your remote turn-on wire (where'd you run that, or do you have it on automatic mode?), or you missed one of the speaker wires, and it's grounding out somewhere..Those're only ideas though, it's hard to tell without looking at the install..

i am pretty sure that i tapped the right wires... red-white, red-white for the rear speakers right? i don't have a remote turn on wire. i have the older basslink and only has auto model. i'll take some pictures and post tonight. maybe you'll be able to spot something wrong.

I'll check my wiring diagrams tomorrow night when I get home to see if you have the right wires (unless someone beats me to it.)Do you have the 200W amp?

yah... the basslink is a 200W....thanks!

I meant did you order the factory 200W amp (i.e. premium sound system, or Moon & Tunes)

i have the premium sound 6 speaker with the 6CD changer. no M&T for the matrix so no amp. anywho.... i took pix of my install.... please let me know if oyu see anything terribly wrong. the bumps in the trunk some wiring holes more wiring the ground wiring and routing thw power hiding the power another angle more power rear passenger rail my splices into the right rear speaker routing to the left speaker during the dash in one side... i still have to clean this up out the other the grommet the left splices another view gotta clean this up tooim going to try another one of those bolts. if you have any other suggestion... please let me know

My only suggestion: Don't use those bolts. They are NOT good grounds. Seriously, the best thing you can do is run your groundwire down into the spare compartment..use a knife or something to scrape away some paint, get a self-tapping screw and a lock-washer, and screw the groundwire directly to the metal.. Because the bolts are painted, it's not a great ground, and they don't conduct too well... As for the speakerwires..see what Mike can come up with.

no luck with the self tapping screw... here's what i did... it looks good but the sub still zooms like before. anymore ideas? the speaker wire that taps the left maybe?

Well..keeping the ground as you've done is probably a good idea, much more solid than the child-seat bolts. I have to go with the thought that they must be the wrong speaker wires somewhere..somehow I just don't think those colors are right, but as I can't verify it right now (it's 3 am afterall..) I can't really say...

Speaker wiring.LF DOOR (4 speakers):PNK - PositivePPL - NegativeLF DOOR (6 speakers):RED - PositiveWHT - NegativeLF DOOR TWEETER (6 speakers):RED/BLU - PositiveBLU - NegativeRF DOOR TWEETER (6 speakers):GRN/WHT - PositiveBRN - NegativeRF DOOR SPEAKER (All):LT GRN - PositiveBLU - NegativeLR/RR DOOR SPEAKER (All):RED - PositiveWHT - Negative

i was correct with my wiring i think.... i tapped into the red-white pairs on both sides of the car. think i may be getting interference from the path that i routed the speaker wire?

Anything's possible.. but it still seems unlikely... This one's a toughie...

go to Radio Shack, buy a .1uF ceramic capacitor. Place it inbetween your 12V and your ground. This should take care of any ground loops.If you really want to take this to the extreme, also pick up a 10uf 50V electrolytic capacitor and wire it in parallel with the .1uF cap. This will eliminate any resonance created from the .1uF cap. Just make sure you pay attention to the polarity of the electrolytic, otherwise it will explode making a sound like a gunshot!

how would i go about wiring that my system.... i remember using those in my semiconductor device classes, but we popped those on to bread boards. could those tiny ceramic discs really handle that much current without going into failure?

There will be very little current going through the caps. They will be what is known as a filter. You can just screw them onto the posts on your amp, or you can solder them inbetween the ground and 12V wires. It really doesn't matter. The closer to the amp the better the results.