GenVibe - Community for Pontiac Vibe Enthusiasts

I installed my Optima 51R Yellow top sunday, can I say it looks clean in the engine compartment now, very easy to install and the car seems to be running a lot better and the flowmaster sounds different, but better... . . . I will post pics tonight.

Cool! Looks like i'll definitely have to invest in one of those!Have you switched out your engine bay ground cables, or are you just using the factory wiring direct off the old battery?

Quote, originally posted by blk182@n7 »I installed my Optima 51R Yellow top sunday, can I say it looks clean in the engine compartment now, very easy to install and the car seems to be running a lot better and the flowmaster sounds different, but better... . . . I will post pics tonight. What is this? I'm sure I'll see when you post pics though.

Quote, originally posted by noginsk »What is this? I'm sure I'll see when you post pics though.It's an aftermarket battery Optima BatteriesVery nice, and needed mod for more cold cranking amps and high-end sound systems

Huh. How many CCAs does this have? How many does the stock battery have?

the 51r yellow top is 500 CCA. I have not changed out the batt ground wire as of yet. I also need to take the handle off if it even comes off not sure yet really don't care. but it runs perrrrrfect.

Attached files

Quote, originally posted by blk182@n7 »I installed my Optima 51R Yellow top sunday, can I say it looks clean in the engine compartment now, very easy to install and the car seems to be running a lot better and the flowmaster sounds different, but bettera new battery makes the exhaust sound better. explain this one to me?

after adding the ground wires and the new batt the exhaust seems to be a bit deeper in sound. it used to have a slight hi pitch now its lower.check out this thread he noticed the same but it was after the ground wire installhttp://forums.genvibe.com/zerothread?id=5902

I installed the Optima Yellowtop and was happy with it before it got drained beyond repair in a couple of days : I currently have an 810 CCA battery in it, and when I get the money I'll obtain a 1000 CCA Stinger battery (The best CCA that'll fir in the Vibe that I've seen, they're available for $200 or so)If you have a high end sound system, install some power capacitors as well or else you'll just ruin the battery, as I unfortunately found out

That was over half a year ago, I have no idea if I still have my receipt for it but I'll take it up there next time I go to Birmingham. Thanks for the info.

the Optima batts have a limited warranty for the amount of months indicated on the batt label, this warranty for the batt is as follows: if this batt fails to hold a charge due to a defect in material or workmenship withen the number of free replacement months but withen the warranty period as indicated on the batt label, carrus products will replace it free of charge. if this batt fails to hold a charge due to a defect in material or workmenship after the number of free replacement months indicated on the batt label, carrus products will replace it for a pro rata charge based upon the number of months of ownership of the batt.

Quote, originally posted by Fialchar »I installed the Optima Yellowtop and was happy with it before it got drained beyond repair in a couple of days : I currently have an 810 CCA battery in it, and when I get the money I'll obtain a 1000 CCA Stinger battery (The best CCA that'll fir in the Vibe that I've seen, they're available for $200 or so)If you have a high end sound system, install some power capacitors as well or else you'll just ruin the battery, as I unfortunately found out hmmm...first of all, CCA is cold cranking amps and refers only to the amount of engine cranking power available at 0 deg. F. It has NOTHING to do with putting up with a big car stereo.second, Stinger does not make their own batteries, they are a Hawker Energy product. The makers of the ill-fated Odessey drycell. Long story short, they have a POOR reputation, and from personal experience (I currently have an Odessey for sale I agree. This model had a VERY hard time with hot-starts in my Camaro (hot 355 under the hood). Upgraded to a Yellowtop and NEVER had a problem again.third, "power capacitors" are a whole other thread there's way (way way) more to it than just "adding a power cap" if you're having battery issues with a sound system.my 0.02b

caps added to a system only stop the drain on the cars electrical system when you hit low bass, you should notice your head lights and interior lights flicker when you hit low hard bass, this is due to the strain and the amount of power drawn to run the amps, adding a cap will reduce and sometimes eliminate the flicker and strain on the system.If you have a high end system the best set up is to get a larger alternator, high end batt like optima, use fusible links run them to 1 or 2, 3 farad caps and power distribution blocks to separate amps, then rebuild the grounds for the system use 4 gauge power & ground wires.

Hamilton, while I may not be an expert enough to call others out on information or any of that, I do know a fair bit about a car's electrical system. I've upgraded my battery not just because it has a larger flashy number, but because the batteries I've used int he past gave up. It's frustrating when you're out-of-state and your car refuses to crank because the current higher performance battery is toasted after only two days. That's why I got rid of my Optima. I know what power caps are, and what they do, I have 2 1 farad monster cable caps in my system, and they help. My bass was hitting low enough that it would kill the detector, headlights, radio, and the car would actually shut down. It's not a very good feeling to have your car shut off in the middle of a busy road. They're merely another step to achieving my goal for my audio system, next is a Supra alternator and an additional battery for the system. While I didn't know that Stinger didn't make their own batteries, I was planning on going with them because the performance and audio shops I've been to recommend Stinger and Optima, and I refuse to get another Optima. They're compact enough to fit in the Vibe and they have a good reputation where I've asked.

Quote, originally posted by Fialchar »Hamilton, while I may not be an expert enough to call others out on information or any of that, I do know a fair bit about a car's electrical system. I've upgraded my battery not just because it has a larger flashy number, but because the batteries I've used int he past gave up. It's frustrating when you're out-of-state and your car refuses to crank because the current higher performance battery is toasted after only two days. That's why I got rid of my Optima. I know what power caps are, and what they do, I have 2 1 farad monster cable caps in my system, and they help. My bass was hitting low enough that it would kill the detector, headlights, radio, and the car would actually shut down. It's not a very good feeling to have your car shut off in the middle of a busy road. They're merely another step to achieving my goal for my audio system, next is a Supra alternator and an additional battery for the system. While I didn't know that Stinger didn't make their own batteries, I was planning on going with them because the performance and audio shops I've been to recommend Stinger and Optima, and I refuse to get another Optima. They're compact enough to fit in the Vibe and they have a good reputation where I've asked.hey! good stuff!! if your sound system has the capacity to slow down and stop a running engine, you have a lot bigger issues to deal with than a battery!!!!! Its pretty obvious that your alternator is sorely lacking the output necessary for the kind of power you're running!! hehe (I know the feeling). I'm willing to bet that if the rest of the electrical system was up to par (large enough alternator, big 3 updated, and adequate power wiring) that ANY battery would last in your car, let alone an optima. you know what I'm saying? I'm glad that you're going with your gut. If you had a bad experience with optima, I wouldn't get it again either. but now that we know WHY you had a bad experience, maybe you'd consider it again? Hate to see you go to a lower quality product based on a bad situation.sorry if I came across strong bud, not the intent at all. Just that in the audio forums I'm on, SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO many people claim/think that a capacitor is the be-all, end-all solution for a lacking electrical system. This, by definition is wrong on several fronts, and I thought thats where you were going... IMHO (mine only), a capacitor is nothing more than supplementary power storage that buffers the big hits. It does NOTHING but stop the dimming of lights (cause as you'll come to find, even with a honkin alternator, those lights will still blink). And the age-old rule of thumb is to have one farad of capacitance for every 1000 wrms (true watts, not label watts). This means that in most cases for enthusiasts, a single 1-farad cap is more than enough. what are you running in your car? I'd love to see the install...later bud!b

Glad this turned into a clear-headed conversation, I know for a sec I felt my ego coming into play I have 2 Orion H2 12" subs and 1 Orion H2 15" Sub ran off of 2 1200 watt Visonik V3709 amps. When I get the money, those amps will be replaced with dual 3600 watt Visonik amps (Visonik doesn't have the best reputation, but I've never had a problem with them, and they've always kept the bass coming in my system ). The power caps, as stated before, are 2, 1 farad Monster Cable power caps with digi's on them, and the amp wire (Until I get the money to have a 0 ga put in) is a 4 ga Lightning Audio wire. For a HU I'm running a CDX-810X Sony HU (One of the few Sony HU's that I've been satisfied with, it's been a year or so and still running strong). I'll look for the link to the pics I took of the system.

dude that system is way to huge for this car.. with car audio bigger isn't always better...but on the other hand clean install. my system sound perfect with what i have. too much bass i had to turn the gain down. and put the bass @ -3 my rear view still wants to shake off....

I have bass and sub down, and I have the Loud option off. I reserve THAT for competitions. There's something else a ton of bass is good for, but I can't say it on the open forums, as it's mature content

lol

HOLY S**T that is one MASSIVE box back there...I feel so "inferior" being content with my stock system...lol...

Quote, originally posted by Fialchar »Glad this turned into a clear-headed conversation, I know for a sec I felt my ego coming into play I have 2 Orion H2 12" subs and 1 Orion H2 15" Sub ran off of 2 1200 watt Visonik V3709 amps. When I get the money, those amps will be replaced with dual 3600 watt Visonik amps (Visonik doesn't have the best reputation, but I've never had a problem with them, and they've always kept the bass coming in my system ). The power caps, as stated before, are 2, 1 farad Monster Cable power caps with digi's on them, and the amp wire (Until I get the money to have a 0 ga put in) is a 4 ga Lightning Audio wire. For a HU I'm running a CDX-810X Sony HU (One of the few Sony HU's that I've been satisfied with, it's been a year or so and still running strong). I'll look for the link to the pics I took of the system.it always is a clear headed conversation, you just didn't know it then I agree that for some reason (due to being a relative of MA Audio I believe) that Visonik has not had the best reputation. I am an authorized Visonik dealer btw the amp models you mention are a few years old....but nice stuff. Which 3600 watt amps are you referring to? Don't waste your money on the Class X stuff unless you can somehow provide 17 volts to em, cause they won't make the power you expect with less. They're class D monoblocks are wicked bang for the buck.You mention some serious power aspirations, but nothing about modifucations up front? Stock alternator???? 4 ga. wiring is pushing it for this system, get that 00 in there quick bud....if you run the large monoblocks you're speaking of with a stock alternator, I see it lasting about 2 minutes....Word of advice for those reading....big power is NOTHING if you can't feed it. Very similar to engines ladies and gentlemen...you wouldn't build up a 700 hp big block chevy engine and run a 4 cylinder fuel pump with 1/4" fuel line would you?? Didn't think so... Ironically (and logically) the same goes for amplifiers...which is why I keep repeating myself about wiring....latersb

The only reason the 4 ga is in is because I'm flat-broke. All of my modifications kind of came to a rather sad grinding halt : When I get my next paycheck, I'll either be putting in 0 or 00 ga wiring, and a frend of mine found a Supra alternator in salvage yard for a rather reasonable price. He tells me that Supra alternators (95 Supra) put out tons of juice, but I think I'll research it anyways I thought I mentioned the alternator somewhere, but I guess not.

[QUOTE=HamiltonAudio]a capacitor is nothing more than supplementary power storage that buffers the big hits. It does NOTHING but stop the dimming of lights (cause as you'll come to find, even with a honkin alternator, those lights will still blink).Just FYI:Capacitance- a property that opposes a change in voltage. It is basically 2 conductors seperated by a dielectric medium.A capacitor is an electric/electronic component that opposes a change in voltage (up or down). THey are connected in parallel in DC applications due to the fact that they are an open in a DC circuit. When a component is first powered up, the capacitor will oppose this change in voltage by gradually ramping up to the 12 volts of the system (charging). This takes 5 "time constants," which vary by total circuit resistance (DC Circuits), size of cap, etc. When a large bass note hits, it takes a huge power draw from the amps. WHen it does this, the cap will oppose the change in voltage by discharging to keep up line voltage.

Quote, originally posted by futseal04 »[QUOTE=HamiltonAudio]a capacitor is nothing more than supplementary power storage that buffers the big hits. It does NOTHING but stop the dimming of lights (cause as you'll come to find, even with a honkin alternator, those lights will still blink).Just FYI:Capacitance- a property that opposes a change in voltage. It is basically 2 conductors seperated by a dielectric medium.A capacitor is an electric/electronic component that opposes a change in voltage (up or down). THey are connected in parallel in DC applications due to the fact that they are an open in a DC circuit. When a component is first powered up, the capacitor will oppose this change in voltage by gradually ramping up to the 12 volts of the system (charging). This takes 5 "time constants," which vary by total circuit resistance (DC Circuits), size of cap, etc. When a large bass note hits, it takes a huge power draw from the amps. WHen it does this, the cap will oppose the change in voltage by discharging to keep up line voltage. hehehe...kinda the "smart" way to say the same thing I did in two lines, right? Thats cool....people very incorrectly assume that if they have an underpowered electrical system that they add a cap and all is well....not the case.My basic point is this (with exaggerated conditions to prove a point). Installing amplifiers that require 200 amps of current in an otherwise stock automobile with a 70 amp alternator is a BAD idea. No matter how large your power cable and no matter how many caps you install, current demand exceeds current supply and you have problemos!! Again, very cool way of understanding how a capacitor really does work in a car...lates,b