GenVibe - Community for Pontiac Vibe Enthusiasts

I am not the one installing but my buddy and I cant get it to work. (we's a stupid) I have read all the topics about this but I really cant figure it out. I have the Metra 70-2003 harnes and a sony mp70. I have a 2004 vibe with the moons and tunes. When we did the install there were two harness hook ups one for the CD player obviously and the other i guess is for the amp. Now here comes the problem, what are you sposed to do about that other "one" (amp I guess) leave her hanging or is there a way to hook it up because the harness I bought said NOT FOR USE ON MOONSOON AMPLIFIED SYSTEMS, but I read that ppl used that one with the m&t. Ohh, yeah when i hooked it up and left the other harness to hang, there was NO SOUND. help before I beat up my buddy j-k.But remember i am a computer geek and no nothing about CAR AUDIO, he knows a tiddle.GunnerP.S. Hey everyone, My name is gunner and I just got a 04 vibe with the moons and tunes. Satalite monotone color. LIKE I ALWAYS wanted. I just dont like my intrest rate on it, oh well. I finally got my vibe.

Ok, do this.If your metra harness has a blue/white wire on it, connect that to the remote turn-on lead from your head unit (also usually blue/white). If the harness DOES NOT have that wire, you need to connect that blue/white wire to pin B3 on the car harness. pin B3 has two black wires coming out of it. Connect it to either wire, by splicing the blue/white into them using a T-tap or other splice method.There should be another wire harness hanging that has just one wire coming from it. That doesn't get used.

Quote, originally posted by ragingfish »Ok, do this.If you're metra harness has a blue/white wire on it, connect that to the remote turn-on lead from your head unit (also usually blue/white). If the harness DOES NOT have that wire, you need to connect that blue/white wire to pin B3 on the car harness. pin B3 has two black wires coming out of it. Connect it to either wire, by splicing the blue/white into them using a T-tap or other splice method.There should be another wire harness hanging that has just one wire coming from it. That doesn't get used.now what you're effectively doing here is using high level (amplified signal) to provide signal to an amplifier this will result in the factory amp (the one creating the sound) reaching its limits early, being distorted, and possibly overheating it.If you take it easy and never intend to upgrade further, don't worry about it. deal with the ****ty sound....if you wanna upgrade further, consider bypassing the Monsoon amp or running better speakers and bypassing the Monsoon wiring altogether.b

I'm not one to contradict the words of someoone who's username leads me to believe he is somewhat of an aucio buff...but my experiences have led me differently. If he uses the harness to connect to the speakers via the head unit harness, that will do what you say with the clipping and distortion...unlesss he puts a level converter on, which i've done...it limits the output of the HU, and keeps it from clipping or distorting. works like a charm.He can use the RCA outs on the head unit to get a line-level feed, but M&T owners all had issues doing that (as far as i know everyone had problems)...it causes a vicious POP anytime you change radio stations or audio settings, or turn the head unit off. I don't suppose you know how to fix that?But if he wants to use the M&T system, he need to activate the external amp, which is done via the blue/white wires...

Quote, originally posted by ragingfish »I'm not one to contradict the words of someoone who's username leads me to believe he is somewhat of an aucio buff...but my experiences have led me differently. If he uses the harness to connect to the speakers via the head unit harness, that will do what you say with the clipping and distortion...unlesss he puts a level converter on, which i've done...it limits the output of the HU, and keeps it from clipping or distorting. works like a charm.He can use the RCA outs on the head unit to get a line-level feed, but M&T owners all had issues doing that (as far as i know everyone had problems)...it causes a vicious POP anytime you change radio stations or audio settings, or turn the head unit off. I don't suppose you know how to fix that?But if he wants to use the M&T system, he need to activate the external amp, which is done via the blue/white wires...you are somewhat correct sir Yes, the external amplifier needs to be turned on in order to work. But no, a level converter (more properly referred to as a line-level convertor) doesn't limit power per se. It takes the very high voltage/impedence output of an amplified output (like deck power) and converts it to very low impedance/voltage outputs in RCA format to power an amplifier. However, they generally have RCA's on one end of them...which does you no good here.Yes, I do know how to fix the popping How have you guys been connecting the RCA level signal from an aftermarket headunit to the speaker level (+ and-) intputs for the factory amp? I sell a produt by PIE, P/N PDC-LOC. Its a full differential line output converter, but works in BOTH directions. VERY high quality product. You can use it to take speaker level and output to rca's, or take RCA's and output to speaker level. Adjustable bias and gains on both channels as well. Thus, you can take the RCA signal from the amplifier and interface to the speaker level inputs. Have done this in quite a few Fords with Premium Sound (their version of your nightmare) and it works WICKED.Give it a whirl... http://www.pie.net/sec11sb6.htm look around the toronto area, I'm sure many shops have em on the shelf. I know I do!beezy.

Hamilton,The level matching PIE piece you're talking about has been used, or at least a version of it has been used, and the issue is not solved.We have reason to believe the M&T amp takes in hi-level signal, as I believe the model versions between M&T and standard stereo are the same, it just has a difference in which connectors exist behind the dash. Also, the 2005 sports a Monsoon subwoofer, but the rest of the audio system in the 03-04 is NOT a monsoon, it is merely a Toyo amplified system.I would agree, however, that you should either bypass the M&T amp, or add an aftermarket 4 channel amplifier. Bypassing the M&T amp is fairly easy, and if you ask Mike (ragingfish) nicely, he can give you the wiring diagrams for the M&T amp to bypass it at the connector to the amplifier, which lets you avoid running all new wires.

Quote, originally posted by Jahntassa »Hamilton,The level matching PIE piece you're talking about has been used, or at least a version of it has been used, and the issue is not solved.We have reason to believe the M&T amp takes in hi-level signal, as I believe the model versions between M&T and standard stereo are the same, it just has a difference in which connectors exist behind the dash. Also, the 2005 sports a Monsoon subwoofer, but the rest of the audio system in the 03-04 is NOT a monsoon, it is merely a Toyo amplified system.I would agree, however, that you should either bypass the M&T amp, or add an aftermarket 4 channel amplifier. Bypassing the M&T amp is fairly easy, and if you ask Mike (ragingfish) nicely, he can give you the wiring diagrams for the M&T amp to bypass it at the connector to the amplifier, which lets you avoid running all new wires.very surprising that the PIE piece doesn't do the trick on this system...very interesting and good to know!! also great to know someone knows the pinouts for bypassing the factory amp....saves a lot of work!! Metra and Scoshe have ready-made plugs for this exact job for many vehicles, and I'm sure they'll have one for your app soon if they don't already....has anybody tried this one: http://www.scosche.com/scosche/connecto ... splaterz,b

Quote, originally posted by HamiltonAudio »has anybody tried this one: http://www.scosche.com/scosche/connectors/TA03.aspNope. The harness in the Vibe is a GM connector, either 80(70)-2002 or 80(70)-2003. As far as I know, nobody makes an amp bypass plug-in for the M&T amp, as I don't believe any other GM car uses the same harnesses, so it's a bit of a fringe part, if it exists.

yeah, saw the metra part numbers. very strange how this car is a mix of Toyota and GM...makes me wonder.... hehehe. good luck with it all!!b

ok, first off to everyone, it helped out, now I have a new MP3/CD player. Thanx.NOW what the hell is GOING ON ! All of my interior buttons that light up, arent. (ie. a/c controls, hazard, ect. ) Gauges are tho.AND, my rear driving lights arent either, I just got Pulled over for them, DID i blow a fuse or something? I checked all the connections I messed with when Installing my CD player and all seem fine. BTW, I installed it 4 days ago and all this happened tonight. Please HelpGunner.PS, my car is 5 weeks old.

Because the gauges are backlit constantly (you can't read them unless they are), that's normal.So, curiosity, are you saying things aren't going on with the auto sensor, or even if you turn the headlights on manually?

i guess, the head lights work, they turn on automaticaly, but the tail lights dont, nor any of the interior lights. Is that connected with the auto sensor? Or have I mistakenly unplugged something or blew something. Like I said, They have been working fine untill tonight. ohh, yeah, I have tried to turn them manually but nada.

who did the wiring? you did it yourself? you very well may have popped a fuse. take a pair of needlenose pliers and PULL every single last one of those fuses out and inspect them visually. You'll find the culprit.beezy

Quote, originally posted by gunr »i guess, the head lights work, they turn on automaticaly, but the tail lights dont, nor any of the interior lights. Is that connected with the auto sensor? Or have I mistakenly unplugged something or blew something. Like I said, They have been working fine untill tonight. ohh, yeah, I have tried to turn them manually but nada.What you're seeing are not the headlights, but the daytime running lights. Sounds like a fuse for sure.Check the TAIL fuse under the dash. It's the most likely culprit; it controls parking lights, tails, instrument panel lights, LP lights, and engine control.Also, you can check the DOME fuse in the engine fuse block, but I'm pretty sure, based on what you describe, that it's the first one.

Quote, originally posted by ragingfish »What you're seeing are not the headlights, but the daytime running lights. Sounds like a fuse for sure.Check the TAIL fuse under the dash. It's the most likely culprit; it controls parking lights, tails, instrument panel lights, LP lights, and engine control.Also, you can check the DOME fuse in the engine fuse block, but I'm pretty sure, based on what you describe, that it's the first one.I Thought that might be what the deal was, but I cant find the fuse box under the dash (me sa stoopid), how do you get to that bad boy?My buddy just told me the samething happened to his grand am, he said because he had some loose wires from his radio that probally touched a metal bracket or SUMTIN, so I think thats what happened to me.Thanks ragingfish, YOUR-A-GREEAAT.Gunner

I can probably shed light on what happened. Somehow either the illumination (orange) or the dimmer (orange/white) wires behind the radio got grounded out. These are the colors in the aftermarket radio harness. If either one of these wires touch something metal (like the radio), you'll blow the fuses to your parking lights / interior lights.The fusebox is a pain to get to, it's up -in- the dash, so you kinda need to look under the dash to the left of the steering wheel, straight up. Go ahead and check the wiring behind the radio. If there are any wires that weren't connected MAKE SURE they're taped up with electrical tape so they can't short-out.-edit-If the radio is still powering, and your domelight is still working, it's most likely the TAIL fuse. I believe the radio and the domelight are on the same circuit, there's also a seperate RADIO/AUDIO fuse, in case you think i'm crazy, yes the radio uses two fuses.Anyway..check the TAIL fuse first..or the ILLUM fuse (if there is one)-editing again-Mike was right, your dashlights are gonna be the TAIL fuse.

Justin has an excellent point.Check the radio wiring BEFORE replacing the fuse. Otherwise, you'll just blow the new one.Once you tape up any loose wires, get on your back, shuffle under the driver side of the dash, and look up towards the left of the wheel. You'll see a black cover with pics of fuses on it. Unsnap that, use the guide ont he cover to locate the TAIL fuse. Pull it out, hold it up to light. You'll clearly see if it's blown. Make sure to replace the fuse with an identical one. Not bigger. Not smaller. In amps that is.

thanx, guys your helping me to not be a total idiot when it comes to car electrics. I shall do all this today, when its 110 outside so by the time its 85 degrees I will be good and going with my PIMPEDassVIBE.hey, how do I get up with my vehicles maintance when I put about 3,000 miles on it every month and a half? Does anyone else put that many miles on anything?Gunner

here she is. shes so lovely, I love Mp3 players.

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btw, I fixed the fuse, thanxhere a shot with it open.

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That's a fairly good unit. The G-Shock series of sony HUs were awesome, if only because they're nearly impossible to skip.Glad you got it working!

Quote, originally posted by Jahntassa »That's a fairly good unit. The G-Shock series of sony HUs were awesome, if only because they're nearly impossible to skip.Glad you got it working!your telling me. I had this in my truck and my brother flipped it 4x's and said it never skiped, AT ALL.