The wheel studs on both the front discs and rear drums were a sort of floating situation. I could move the studs around within the little holes they came out from. Can anyone explain exactly why that is and what the point is? I've always rotated my own tires and done my own brake jobs and never noticed it before...
I haven't noticed it on the Vibe, so I can't say for sure. I had a rear wheel dive pickup truck where the front rotor was integral to the hub, replacing the rotor meant replacing the wheel bearings too. On a front wheel drive minivan I had, the rotor was just free like you describe, really only held in place sandwiched between the hub and the wheel. It was a lot easier to replace the rotor on the minivan than on the truck, just remove the wheel and brake caliper & pads, and the rotor just pulls off, no messing with drve axles, bearings, etc. On all the cars I've hadd with drum brakes, the outer drum is only attached by bolting on the wheel. Seems like how loose it is when the wheel is removed depends on how well the brakes let go and how rusty it all is.
Quote, originally posted by Mr.D »The wheel studs on both the front discs and rear drums were a sort of floating situation. I could move the studs around within the little holes they came out from. Can anyone explain exactly why that is and what the point is? I've always rotated my own tires and done my own brake jobs and never noticed it before...That's because the studs are not mounted in the rotor (or drum). The studs are mounted in the hub that is attached to the spindle. The rotor (and drum) slide over the studs just like the wheel does.
Sure makes it sound like hubcentric rings are a must for aftermarket wheels.
Vibe GT, TRD springs, Progress bar, STB, Unichip, Borbet E 16x7.5, 225/50 Bridgestone RE750, beefed up grounds and battery bypass capacitors(had em laying around)