GenVibe - Community for Pontiac Vibe Enthusiasts

I just picked up a Polk Audio/Momo MM10 sub w/ fiberglass enclosure for $99 and am now looking for an appropriate amp to push it. Does anyone have any suggestions? Also, how difficult is it to wire annother amp to the stock 6-disc changer w/ the M&T amp? Thanks in advance for your help!

good deal looks like, howd you get it? $330 for $99, wow

I bought it at a Fry's Electronics in Manhattan Beach, CA. You can shop online from them at Outpost.com, but I'm not sure what deals they have there. I am sure they don't have the sales and/or merchandise they publish in the local papers. For example, this sale is running from 9/26-9/30 ONLY.

Get a Lightning Audio mono, either the B2.250.1 or the B2.350.1 They push 250 or 350 watts respectively... I have the B2.350.1 hooked up to a dual-bandpass box in my Vibe with two Sony P5 10" in it.

JL Audio make good stuff.JBL amps are not bad too.To drive your sub, get a mono or a stereo amp.Do not buy a 4 channels amp. for a sub

Thanks for the replies. However, shouldn't I bump up the power a bit with a 500w RMS rated woofer? Here's a link to Polk's site for more info on the woofer/enclosure combo.Thanks again!

A 500W RMS amp. will kill your alternator and destroy your ears, and dig a big hole in your wallet....All depends of teastes, but i have a 360W amp. (peak) and it is enough for me.

Ahh, ok. Well I don't want to go killing my alternator

Ben,What kind of speakers do you have? I was thinking of changing my OEM ones....

I still have stock speaker in the doors.I only added a sub, tweeters and cross-over.

How about a Rockford Fosgate Punch 501s? It's a 2-channel amp putting out 500 watts RMS x 1 @ 4 ohms in bridged mode. $179 sounds like a deal to me, but that's why I come to the experts (you guys ).

I've never been a fan of Rockfords...usually too expensive.. Although that sounds like a good deal considering my Lightning Audio was $150.If you get something like that, though...you really need to invest in a Capacator to keep from destroying your electrical system. I have a 1 farad cap on my amp, went on shop.yahoo.com and found a lightning audio 1 farad "Strike" cap with digital readout for $70.If that doesn't make sense..I can explain in english too.

No no, that was my very next question...if I needed a cap with this high-powered amp. I'm also going to have to consider a new battery and low-battery warning indicator.

Battery will only help if you're blasting tunes when the car is off. Yes, having a higher capacity battery will help slightly for when the car is running, but most of the power comes from the alternator when the car is actually running.Don't try to go all out...you can do steps at a time. Get the amp and the Cap at the same time... then just see how high you can turn it up without the headlights dimming while the car is on. Keep it below that.I am also going to get a high-output alternator, but it'll take some time to get the money for that.

quote:How about a Rockford Fosgate Punch 501s? It's a 2-channel amp putting out 500 watts RMS x 1 @ 4 ohms in bridged mode. $179 sounds like a deal to me, but that's why I come to the experts (you guys ).It sounds like a good deal. But I doubt the amp. can give you a real 500W RMS. But for the price, it looks ok.Jahntassa is wright. With an amp who take so much power (more then 125A peak) when your alternator only give you 85A for the whole car, a capacitor must be considerated.I do not have one, but my amp is 360W peak and the head light does not dime with bass, but if yours does, the alternator won't last very long.

How can you determine how many amps an amp draws? If your amp is 360W peak, what is its RMS rating? Wouldn't this sub be underpowered/distorted if I tried pushing it with a smaller amp?Sorry for the 20 questions

quote:How can you determine how many amps an amp draws? If your amp is 360W peak, what is its RMS rating? Wouldn't this sub be underpowered/distorted if I tried pushing it with a smaller amp?Sorry for the 20 questions There are no stupid questions... You're asking about a fairly good amount of cash, and you want to do it right. I spent about a month and a half researching the amp that I bought.The deal with my amp is, it's 250W peak at 4 Ohm, 350W peak at 2 Ohm. I'm running two Sony 10" P5 subs in parallel, so I get the 350W across both. Less than running my old 4-ch amp in bridged mode, but definitely stronger punch. I have no idea what the RMS is as it doesn't seem to be posted anywhere..As for running it too low... Naw. You can put a 30W amp on a sub and it'll work, it just won't give you punch. The only way you can destroy a sub with an amp is to overpower it, and blow the cone out of the coil.. I think the technical term is "over-extruding".With subs, though, you want to pretty much match Peak-to-Peak. If you can get close with the RMS, that's fine and dandy, but honestly, you want it to HIT, rather than just sorta hum all the time. Mind you...I usually keep mine at a level so it just shakes the seat, depending on my listening choice...As for the amps, there are technical ways to do it, but I usually go by the fuses. For instance, my Mono amp uses three 15 Amp fuses, so I'll guess, at max, that it can pull 40 amps before it melts. (I'm guessing, anyone that knows better, correct me!) Most likely, it'll pull much less than that in normal use.The capacitor doesn't give you more power to use for your amp, it acts as a buffer. (Just in case this wasn't pre-explained!) Capacitors are designed to store energy, and release it very quickly. That whine you hear when your flash bulb charges is a capacitor. So...you install this in-line with the power to your amplifier. This way...if the amp needs a whole lot of juice suddenly, you don't fry your alternator or voltage regulator. The Capacitor simply feeds it the power it needs, and quickly recharges. Moral of the story: Don't worry about under-power. You won't hurt anything as long as you keep the amp power rating somewhere near the speaker.

Thanks for the details, Jahntassa.I think I am considering a Rockford Fosgate 350s instead of the 501s, and then I'll add a cap anyways.

That should be good... I'd go with 8 guage wiring though.. I generally put a fuse under the hood, and a fuse just before the amp. Or in the case of the cap..just before that..