GenVibe - Community for Pontiac Vibe Enthusiasts

Posted: **Sun Jan 10, 2021 9:41 pm**

hi guys

i have 3 problems with my 2004 vibe gt

1.- when i start in the mornings it rev up up to 3000 rpm, and when is hot stays at 2000 rpm, sometime when i stop stays at 3000 need to hit the pedal to bring it back to 2000

2.- have rumbling noise when i accelerate, the faster the louder it gets, check engine no noise form it

3 .-when i hit 75-80 mph it starts to vibrate, stops when it pases 80 mph

i tried : cleaning the throttle body, replace the pcv valve, rotate balance tires and check struts no luck

thanks in advance for any help

Posted: **Mon Jan 11, 2021 2:41 am**

Is the check engine light on? If so, what are the codes?

Posted: **Tue Jan 12, 2021 5:36 am**

The rumbling noise may be a bad wheel bearing. Very common on these cars.

Posted: **Tue Jan 12, 2021 2:49 pm**

zbyers wrote: ↑Mon Jan 11, 2021 2:41 am Is the check engine light on? If so, what are the codes?

it's code P0505

also was told that the throttle position sensor is bad

Posted: **Tue Jan 12, 2021 2:50 pm**

SSizler wrote: ↑Tue Jan 12, 2021 5:36 am The rumbling noise may be a bad wheel bearing. Very common on these cars.

how can i find out which side is the bad one?

Posted: **Sat Jan 23, 2021 4:24 pm**

well i replace TPS and the IACS and solve part of my problem, when it starts it gets to 2000 but lowers to 1200, so what's next?

also still get code P0505, what can i do now?

Posted: **Sun Jan 24, 2021 9:45 am**

check for leaks and found none, still get the same code, any idea what could be wrong or am i missing something?

Posted: **Sun Jan 24, 2021 4:19 pm**

Here is link to code: https://www.autocodes.com/p0505_toyota.html

Most likely you have an air leak somewhere past the mass air flow sensor up to the cylinder head. You do have all the stock intake parts including the air filter box? PCV valve changed? PCV valve hose in good condition? Intake gasket leak?

Noise could be anything. You need to troubleshoot and provide more information before you can get good feed back about your issue. It could be anything from the belt tensioner to shields under the car. You said you checked for leaks but you do not describe how and what you actually checked.

Vibration could be out of balance tire / rim, bad shocks / struts, bent wheel / rim, or something else.

Posted: **Sat Jan 30, 2021 12:32 pm**

jolt wrote: ↑Sun Jan 24, 2021 4:19 pm Here is link to code: https://www.autocodes.com/p0505_toyota.html

Most likely you have an air leak somewhere past the mass air flow sensor up to the cylinder head. You do have all the stock intake parts including the air filter box? PCV valve changed? PCV valve hose in good condition? Intake gasket leak?

Noise could be anything. You need to troubleshoot and provide more information before you can get good feed back about your issue. It could be anything from the belt tensioner to shields under the car. You said you checked for leaks but you do not describe how and what you actually checked.

Vibration could be out of balance tire / rim, bad shocks / struts, bent wheel / rim, or something else.

already replace the PCV valve, all the hoses are ok, check integrity with a smoke machine no leaks

an update on one of my problems: replace the IACV "TWICE" and still same problem and now a little worst: when i stop the car the engine rev up to 3000 and when hit gas pedal is fluctuated between 2000 and 1000 then stop in 1200, now i do not know what else to do!
any idea what else is the problem?

Posted: **Mon Feb 01, 2021 1:45 am**

Bad wiring for throttle body, bad connections for wiring from ECM to throttle body, or bad throttle body. You did check for vacuum leaks to the evap system to gas tank and the brake booster?

Posted: **Mon Feb 01, 2021 4:30 pm**

jolt wrote: ↑Mon Feb 01, 2021 1:45 am Bad wiring for throttle body, bad connections for wiring from ECM to throttle body, or bad throttle body. You did check for vacuum leaks to the evap system to gas tank and the brake booster?

well i give up and put the car in the shop!

thanks anyway for your advice and help

Posted: **Tue Feb 02, 2021 4:31 pm**

i guess back to square one!! my mechanic did not find the cause of the malfunction!!!
he just told me to get a new throttle body, dang it!!

how to check if is bad?

so how can i check the wiring and the connectors?

how to check the evap system and the break booster?

Posted: **Thu Feb 04, 2021 10:35 pm**

salamander162 wrote: ↑Tue Feb 02, 2021 4:31 pm how to check if is bad?

You replace it. The cheapest source for a throttle body is most likely a car parts salvage yard or try RockAuto parts on-line.

salamander162 wrote: ↑Tue Feb 02, 2021 4:31 pm so how can i check the wiring and the connectors?

You use a volt/ohm meter and need to have the wiring drawing to trace out each wire that is connected to the throttle body. You check the continuity of each wire from end to end of wire and that the connector has continuity to the wire also.

salamander162 wrote: ↑Tue Feb 02, 2021 4:31 pm how to check the evap system and the break booster?

You need to check for vacuum leaks in these systems also as this can allow un-metered air into the system and cause the code. Find the hoses going to each of the systems and try to pinch the hoses closed as the engine is running. If the engine speed slows down, you may have a vacuum leak in that system.

Posted: **Sat Feb 06, 2021 6:53 pm**

went to the junk yard and they are in worst condition than mine and no many of them

rockauto does not have it

where can i get a wire diagram of my car?
anyway thanks buddy

Posted: **Fri Feb 26, 2021 4:39 pm**

hi guys, an update on my problem: not even my mechanic can find same throttle body!!!

somewhere in the forum i read that you can send it to be rebuild, does any body know a place in the houston,tx area?

Posted: **Fri Feb 26, 2021 5:11 pm**

Can’t help much with the high idle off the top of my head, but I think I can help you diagnose the noise/vibration...

To check the wheel bearings, jack the car up, grab the tire at the 12 and 6 o clock positions, and shake the tire in and out/up and down. If there’s any movement that wheel bearing is bad. If you do the same thing with the 9 and 3 o clock positions, that’ll tell ya if your inner/outer tie rods are bad.

Either test can also be used to find loose balljoints/lower control arm bushings. For those you’ll need another set of eyes watching every joint/bushing as you shake. If any are loose, they need replaced. If nothing is loose, odds are you need an alignment or have a bent wheel. Could also be a bad strut but you said you already checked those.

Back to wheel bearings though, a bearing doesn’t necessarily have to be loose to make noise, and if they’re loose they may not always make noise. But any movement at all is too much. Hopefully that helps you out there.

Another bearing to check is the passenger side CV axle bearing where the half shaft bolts to the engine block. There’s no good way to test it on the car in a home garage, usually we put the car up on the lift at work with someone in it, and someone underneath. Get the wheels spinning about 35-40 mph and listen to the bearing with a mechanic stethoscope. You’ll be able to clearly hear a roaring noise through the ‘scope. The best way to test it safely without a lift is to pull that axle, and feel the bearing by hand. Spin it a little bit and if it feels gritty/loose that would be a cause of your noise.

Hopefully SOMETHING in here is useful haha

Posted: **Fri Feb 26, 2021 5:46 pm**

CraftsmanQuad19 wrote: ↑Fri Feb 26, 2021 5:11 pm Can’t help much with the high idle off the top of my head, but I think I can help you diagnose the noise/vibration...

To check the wheel bearings, jack the car up, grab the tire at the 12 and 6 o clock positions, and shake the tire in and out/up and down. If there’s any movement that wheel bearing is bad. If you do the same thing with the 9 and 3 o clock positions, that’ll tell ya if your inner/outer tie rods are bad.

Either test can also be used to find loose balljoints/lower control arm bushings. For those you’ll need another set of eyes watching every joint/bushing as you shake. If any are loose, they need replaced. If nothing is loose, odds are you need an alignment or have a bent wheel. Could also be a bad strut but you said you already checked those.

Back to wheel bearings though, a bearing doesn’t necessarily have to be loose to make noise, and if they’re loose they may not always make noise. But any movement at all is too much. Hopefully that helps you out there.

Another bearing to check is the passenger side CV axle bearing where the half shaft bolts to the engine block. There’s no good way to test it on the car in a home garage, usually we put the car up on the lift at work with someone in it, and someone underneath. Get the wheels spinning about 35-40 mph and listen to the bearing with a mechanic stethoscope. You’ll be able to clearly hear a roaring noise through the ‘scope. The best way to test it safely without a lift is to pull that axle, and feel the bearing by hand. Spin it a little bit and if it feels gritty/loose that would be a cause of your noise.

Hopefully SOMETHING in here is useful haha

thanks for the info, will do that Sunday morning

Posted: **Wed Mar 03, 2021 8:44 pm**

one problem fixed: replace the front driver side bearing

still can not fix the high idle problem

Posted: **Fri Mar 05, 2021 2:46 pm**

Did the bearing cure your shake/noise?

Posted: **Fri Mar 05, 2021 4:34 pm**

CraftsmanQuad19 wrote: ↑Fri Mar 05, 2021 2:46 pm Did the bearing cure your shake/noise?

yes it did!!!
thank you very much!!!

Posted: **Sat Mar 06, 2021 4:13 pm**

salamander162 wrote: ↑Fri Mar 05, 2021 4:34 pm
CraftsmanQuad19 wrote: ↑Fri Mar 05, 2021 2:46 pm Did the bearing cure your shake/noise?
yes it did!!!
thank you very much!!!

Great! Glad I could help there! Still stumped on the high idle though

Posted: **Sat Mar 06, 2021 4:35 pm**

[/quote]

Great! Glad I could help there! Still stumped on the high idle though
[/quote]

still have no idea what is wrong with it

Posted: **Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:08 pm**

Throttle body:

https://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/prod ... zz-ge-new/

or go to the Toyota dealer for one.

Posted: **Thu Mar 11, 2021 9:40 pm**

yikes, that hurt my pocket but at the end i will have to do that, thanks for the link

Posted: **Fri Mar 12, 2021 6:51 am**

salamander162 wrote: ↑Thu Mar 11, 2021 9:40 pm yikes, that hurt my pocket but at the end i will have to do that, thanks for the link

You could probably pull one from a junkyard and send it to http://maxbore.com/index.html to have it bored out and redone, and use that.

Posted: **Fri Mar 12, 2021 11:26 am**

Here's the price for a new one on Conicelli's website if $130 less makes any difference:
https://parts.conicellitoyotaofconshoho ... ottle+body
Throttle Body
Part Number: 22210-22160 Browse more in Fuel System - Throttle Body
Other Names: Fuel Injection Throttle Body, Body Assembly Throttle
Description: Matrix. With xrs.

$353.82

Posted: **Thu Mar 18, 2021 7:29 pm**

zbyers wrote: ↑Fri Mar 12, 2021 6:51 am
salamander162 wrote: ↑Thu Mar 11, 2021 9:40 pm yikes, that hurt my pocket but at the end i will have to do that, thanks for the link
You could probably pull one from a junkyard and send it to http://maxbore.com/index.html to have it bored out and redone, and use that.

found me one, will get it next monday, will inspect and clean it, if looks ok will install in the car and see how it works . so let's wait and see

Posted: **Sat Mar 20, 2021 7:40 pm**

salamander162 wrote: ↑Thu Mar 18, 2021 7:29 pm
zbyers wrote: ↑Fri Mar 12, 2021 6:51 am
salamander162 wrote: ↑Thu Mar 11, 2021 9:40 pm yikes, that hurt my pocket but at the end i will have to do that, thanks for the link
You could probably pull one from a junkyard and send it to http://maxbore.com/index.html to have it bored out and redone, and use that.
found me one, will get it next monday, will inspect and clean it, if looks ok will install in the car and see how it works . so let's wait and see

got the TB today, looks better than mine, so i install it on the car, runs better but still some rpm high, so prolly i will send the other one to rebuild

Posted: **Sat Mar 27, 2021 9:08 am**

after 6 days driving still no check engine light on, that's g good, still have some high rpm

Posted: **Tue Apr 06, 2021 7:29 pm**

salamander162 wrote: ↑Sat Mar 27, 2021 9:08 am after 6 days driving still no check engine light on, that's g good, still have some high rpm

i spoke too soon,the check engine light come on last friday, so i send the TB to repair

Posted: **Tue Apr 13, 2021 3:52 pm**

got the TB yesterday, now my vibe is running fine, within normal rpm!!

but now my cruise control does not work?
i wonder why?

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