GenVibe - Community for Pontiac Vibe Enthusiasts

First off, I'll make a long story short. I got another vibe base model same color as mine current vibe at a auction and it was in the non-running category, I spent 20 mins on it before the auction and got it running. (I was thinking having my own parts car) It has a very loud knocking sound coming from the engine. Timing chain seems to be in time and the engine idles perfectly, compression test is 120psi, 130psi, 150psi, and 130psi, and I removed the oil pan and found small and large metal flakes in the oil (some the size of a quarter). There is a decent amount of sludge built up in the engine including inside the value cover. The knocking sound does not change when you remove the spark plug wires while running. Also 211,376 miles on the odometer.


My question is: What is the most likely problem? Is it worth fixing the problem to get the car is good running shape again?


Total amount into the car is $350 so far and the front end bummer covers and hood will need to been replaced since it has some damage to it.


Thanks for your input.

used engines aren't that hard to find and will turn it into a $3000 + value:
http://www.car-part.com/

I was going to say the same thing. Put a used engine in it and do some basic cosmetic work to it and you'll have a dependable daily driver for many more years! Keep us posted as to what you end up doing and seek us out here for future advise!

Is it better to buy a used engine for these cars or if the block is still is good condition, is it better to rebuild the engine? Has anyone ever rebuilt one of these engines and is there a rebuild kit that comes with the basics? I know the bearing you have to get straight from Toyota because they are stamped with a number and you have to use that number for that cylinder.

Just trying to figure out the best route for this car and what will also be most cost effective.

It is almost always more economic and less time consuming to replace the whole lump. There are way to many potential pitfalls in taking an engine apart and putting it back together. I would look for an engine with about 100K on it. If you feel like it you could still rebuilt the original engine without time pressure.

I replaced the rod bearings in an 03 1ZZ using a set from a chain auto parts store, didn't know about the match bearings to Toyota factory stamps on the original bearings. This pic is what my old bearings looked like, cylinders 1&4 were trashed. It fixed a knock, and I got about 80K more miles out of it before I let the car go for other reasons. It was under $50, and didn't need to pull the engine to do it. But mine didn't have any sludge build up. So it would be a gamble, if that's the problem, then a lot cheaper than a whole engine, if not, then a wasted $50 and some time. If it comes to a rebuild the whole engine or replace it, I vote for replace with one from a wreck.

Allen3546 wrote:I know the bearing you have to get straight from Toyota because they are stamped with a number and you have to use that number for that cylinder.

Wrong. You just need to check clearances and see if you need to oversize the bearings or stay standard.

If it is a rod bearing, the engine may be ok overall and need new bearings and maybe the rod(s) and crank, plus a thorough cleaning. If it is a spun main, the whole thing is probably scrap except maybe the head. I overhauled my engine and it was really easy. The best way to know for sure is to pull the oil pan and drop the bearing caps for the rods. They have matchmarks so you can't mix the rods themselves up. The marks are rotated U's and you can't miss them if you inspect the rod caps.

The main bearing cap is one whole piece and you have to drop the entire lower half of the crank case all the way up to the oil filter.

The rebuild would be $150 for gaskets alone, then another $60 for bearings, and connecting rods are $80 new OEM and $35 used. The crankshaft is $150-300 used. Given the state of the rest of the engine having sludge, you will need to inspect everything and probably change the fluid in the trans just to be on the safe side.