GenVibe - Community for Pontiac Vibe Enthusiasts

Question about an 04 base model with the 1.8L 1zz-fe motor: I have been having some issues with the car (burns oil, runs rough, seems to lack power at low rpms), got the code checked and had multiples: misfire on all 4 cylinders (P0301-P0304), O2 sensor (P0133) (, fuel trim lean (P0171), and engine coolant temperature (P0177). After some research online I found that the prescribed solution was to replace the intake manifold gasket.

The new gasket is in place, and now the car stalls out and the brakes don't work (brake pedal stiff). Vacuum leak, right?

I read you can find vacuum leaks by spraying some carb cleaner around, but that doesn't help me, as I can't get the car to stay running and I don't have a helper around to start the car up while I stay up front to look for leaks.

I think I probably screwed up and just forgot to do something (total newb at this stuff, never taken an intake off before today).

Any ideas? FWIW I have already completely removed the manifold a 2nd time to make sure the mating surface was 100% clean, no signs of warping. Did the same thing on the mating surface where the throttle body attaches, and used some liquid gasket on the throttle body gasket.

This may be related: I had overheating issues last year. I had a coolant system leak that I delayed repairing, and it overheated 3 different occasions. Once I replaced the radiator and flushed the system and refilled I have not had any further coolant/temp issues AFAIK.

Looks like it was a hose I missed. One of the small ones behind where the throttle body attached to the intake manifold.

Yes, you have to be careful with hoses and tightening clamps etc on the air intake stuff, it does not take much to create problems.

So do you find it is running better with the new gasket?

Did you disconnect the battery to reset the computer?

UberDemon wrote:Looks like it was a hose I missed. One of the small ones behind where the throttle body attached to the intake manifold.

When I replaced the intake manifold gasket in mine, I forgot to hook up that hose too! Was glad I found it, I thought I had trashed the car

binder wrote:Yes, you have to be careful with hoses and tightening clamps etc on the air intake stuff, it does not take much to create problems.

So do you find it is running better with the new gasket?

Did you disconnect the battery to reset the computer?

It is not running better. Still the same. At this point I have performed the following, in chronological order:

1. Installed new air filter (1 week ago)
2. Changed oil and filter (1 week ago)
3. Installed new spark plugs
4. Installed new intake manifold gasket (earlier today)
5. Installed new O2 sensor (after my last post in thread)

It has serious lack of power at idle speed and low rpm range. It's a manual, and I have to give it some gas off the line to keep it from stalling out in 1st gear. Once it gets up to about 2500/3k it starts to feel a little more normal, but still is hesitating and doesn't feel right.

Exhaust smells off too... like there's unburnt fuel in it maybe? I don't normally notice the exhaust, but now suddenly I do. Probably because I am having to give it extra gas to keep it from stalling out in 1st gear?

I disconnected the negative battery terminal yesterday (the first time I had the manifold off and replaced the gasket). I have not disconnected it today (the 2nd time I took the manifold off to clean the mating surface a 2nd time, and cleaned the throttle body/manifold mating surface a 1st time and put it all back together with some liquid gasket on the throttle body/manifold connection.

Could this be an exhaust issue? How could I troubleshoot? I'm quickly approaching the point where I may have to just take it to a shop, but I would love to avoid that.

What about valve cover gasket? I do see some seepage along the seam.

When I was changing out spark plugs I did notice oil on a couple of the plugs too, and all over the grey tube thingies (what are those called?). It look a lot like this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=pl ... rozg#t=93s" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


After watching that guy's video I'm thinking of changing that valve cover gasket tomorrow morning. Looks to be within my abilities.

Before you take it to the shop, run a compression test on the engine! Be sure you run the compression test CORRECTLY! Overheating an engine can cause damage.
Good luck,
chiadog

binder wrote:Did you disconnect the battery to reset the computer?

I did reset the computer again, and it improved things slightly. I no longer have to give it extra throttle to get moving off the line. It's still hesitating though, especially on hills.

a leaky valve cover gasket shouldn't make the engine run poorly, but if yours looks like the one in the video then it would probably be a good idea to replace the gasket.

Have you tried cleaning the MAF sensor? If its dirty and reads air flow low, then it could cause a lean condition.

I should have mentioned this earlier: Every time I take the oil fill cap off or pull out the dipstick to check oil there is smoke coming out. Pretty fair amount too.

joatmon wrote:a leaky valve cover gasket shouldn't make the engine run poorly, but if yours looks like the one in the video then it would probably be a good idea to replace the gasket.

Have you tried cleaning the MAF sensor? If its dirty and reads air flow low, then it could cause a lean condition.

I have not. I will try doing this tomorrow.

Could be clogged PCV if you are getting smoke from filler cap?

I would change that and clean throttle body and MAF.

Update:

I got everything to perform the valve cover gasket swap. Found a big problem right away that I never noticed before: one of the bolts is missing (anyone know how I go about finding a replacement?). So, I think that explains the seepage. I replaced the pcv valve as well.

Check out the (6 day old) spark plugs:

http://i.imgur.com/2fkubwD.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I did the coil test (pulled off each cylinder's electric connection 1 by 1 while engine running). The coil that corresponds to the nasty plug in the pic failed the test. I did hear a SLIGHT difference in the engine sound when reconnecting that coil, but when I unplugging it the result was nothing at all like when plugging in the 3 good ones.

Looks like I am off to buy a coil. Or should I? Compression test first? I do not own the tool to test compression yet, so I'd have to go buy one.

Haven't messed with cleaning MAF yet, but I think that can wait now. Bigger fish to fry.

Wow, that's one nasty looking plug! Did you try swapping coil positions? If the problem follows the coil that pretty much tells you it's the culprit, otherwise you're looking for the source of the plug fouling on that cylinder.

I put a new coil and plug in, it had zero effect. Unplugging the coil's connector doesn't change the engine sound at all. Guess I have a much more serious issue. Only running on 3.

The car has 220k on it, and I have to be honest here: I've really neglected it since I bought it with 180k on it. It caught up with me finally, lesson learned.

An engine for these cars (1zz Corolla/Matrix/Vibe/Celica..etc) are easy to find and cheap. If the frame and transmission are in good shape I'd replace the engine.

Someone is telling me it could be my catalytic converter is the issue now? That if I drove on it for a while with the misfire (which I did. I have been having issues the past couple months and thought it was my clutch needing replaced because I only noticed it in low rpms) that it could take out the cat?

I like the sound of that a lot better than something deep inside the engine like a piston ring, but I don't want to throw $300 or more down the tube either.

I fail to see how the cat could do anything to only one cylinder let alone make a plug look like that...

Rayven01 wrote:I fail to see how the cat could do anything to only one cylinder let alone make a plug look like that...

Any theories, or troubleshooting tips? I'm learning this as I go, but would I be correct in guessing compression test is next, dry vs wet?

UberDemon wrote:Any theories, or troubleshooting tips? I'm learning this as I go, but would I be correct in guessing compression test is next, dry vs wet?

I would agree. Assuming you do get a compression drop (very likely at this point) you're down deep in the engine and out of my comfort zone. Personally I would quit there and take the advice above about seeking out a used engine.

Your plug suggests you have a piston ring or valve issue with oil getting into the combustion mix, possible a gasket. You can try cheap band aid solutions like STP oil treatment or some kind of oil thickener and see if that helps, but the amount of fouling on the plug, I doubt it would help? I think you need to get into the engine and look at the rings and valves.

I think you earlier mentioned something about overheating? So maybe you have something warped or cracked?

If you had a problem with your cat/O2 sensors, then your plugs would all look bad.

binder wrote:Your plug suggests you have a piston ring or valve issue with oil getting into the combustion mix

^ This appears to be the right answer.

You mentioned smoke coming from the dipstick that makes me think piston ring. Unfortunately, no amount of STP is going to fix that.

Thanks for the info everyone.

Sad to say this is the 2nd Vibe I have lost under my watch First one due to running on low oil (wasn't aware of the oil loss issue with these motors and was not vigilant in checking oil level like I should have been doing).

I'll chalk this 2nd one up to overheating 3x last year, which is also my fault of course. I delayed in fixing the issue and am now paying the piper.

I still consider myself a fan of the Vibe (the body style mostly), but not really much of a fan of the 1zz-fe. I think I need something a little more forgiving. I'm not blaming the car... just saying it's not a good fit for me. I need something that can stand up to more abuse and neglect.

These are good engines but the are hard working and many have put over 200K miles on them with no issues. Don't blame your lack of maintenance and abuse on a faulty engine. Take care of your car and it will serve you well for many years and save you a lot of money!

I've put over 200K on many cars because I take care of the engine and drive train. Yea I may not care for the paint or interior the best but we check tire pressure and fluids monthly and it takes a whole 5 minutes. More often if we have a known leak.

If you want a tank go and buy an old GM RWD car with a 350 small block.

Or just grow up and take care of things. GEEZ

The 1ZZ-FE should be easy enough for anyone take care of.
Maybe you need to get a car with a maintenance plan that forces you to take it in and be serviced?