GenVibe - Community for Pontiac Vibe Enthusiasts

As such with every other specification for my Vibe, I can't seem to find a straight answer of the OEM spark plug for my Vibe. Rather than pull a plug then make the purchase, I would prefer to have the plugs ready to go on game day.

My vehicle is a 2009, 1.8, 5-speed Vibe. I believe, after reading MANY posts, Denso is the OEM plug. According to Denso's website, SC20HR11 (3444) is the OEM plug for my Vibe. Has anyone actually pulled a plug from a 2009, 1.8, and recorded the OEM plug brand and number?

Thank you - Doc Doug

The 2009 owner's manual lists the GM part number for the 1.8L spark plugs as: #19185438 and the Denso part number as: #SK20HR11.

vibenvy wrote:The 2009 owner's manual lists the GM part number for the 1.8L spark plugs as: #19185438 and the Denso part number as: #SK20HR11.

Thanks for the info... but I have no trust in the owners manual. The manual also lists Dexcool as the coolant and other incorrect specifications. This is why I am hoping that someone who has actually pulled their own original plugs can post the part number.

Doc Doug

DocDoug wrote:Thanks for the info... but I have no trust in the owners manual. The manual also lists Dexcool as the coolant and other incorrect specifications. This is why I am hoping that someone who has actually pulled their own original plugs can post the part number.

True.

I thought I would resurrect this threat for DocDoug since no one has posted the answer yet (except for the shaky owners manual). As many of our second generation Vibes have passed 100,000 miles, has no one still not pulled out their OEM plugs to see what came from NUMMI?

Also, a side question: I had read somewhere that our 2ZR engines could not have the valves adjusted, that it is just not possible for the VVTi engines. Is this true? My valves are awfully noisy again as the weather has gotten cold. Is there really no way to re-gap the intake/exhaust valves on these cars?

Caretaker wrote:I thought I would resurrect this threat for DocDoug since no one has posted the answer yet (except for the shaky owners manual). As many of our second generation Vibes have passed 100,000 miles, has no one still not pulled out their OEM plugs to see what came from NUMMI?

Also, a side question: I had read somewhere that our 2ZR engines could not have the valves adjusted, that it is just not possible for the VVTi engines. Is this true? My valves are awfully noisy again as the weather has gotten cold. Is there really no way to re-gap the intake/exhaust valves on these cars?

Did you mean to say 2zz? If so that is correct. The only proper way to do it is to change the shims. Its a very long and tedious process. If you want to know how its done shoot me your email and I'll try and send it.

The shims are also $16 apiece.

ACDelco 41-112. When you actually buy these and open the box, inside you find Denso SC20HR11 plugs.

I'm not sure exactly what's in there from the factory, but I'll be pulling mine tomorrow and I'll let you know.

90919-01253 Is the toyota part number for the Denzo SK20HR11.

I took the original plugs out of the engine and they were indeed Denso SC20HR11.

Toyota's application guide lists the SC20HR11 for the 2ZR-FE
http://www.toyota.com/toyota-owners-onl ... _final.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

ACDelco lists the 41-112 as the proper plug, which when purchased are actually Denso SC20HR11

Also, here are the plugs I took out of my 2009 1.8 last night:

kumquat wrote:Toyota's application guide lists the SC20HR11 for the 2ZR-FE
http://www.toyota.com/toyota-owners-onl ... _final.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

ACDelco lists the 41-112 as the proper plug, which when purchased are actually Denso SC20HR11

Also, here are the plugs I took out of my 2009 1.8 last night:

That's interesting, you have the same burn marks on the ceramic that I did. I heard it was caused by over tightened plugs.

kumquat: thank you very much for taking the time to do this. Did you put in new ones, and if so, what mileage are you at?

Caretaker wrote:kumquat: thank you very much for taking the time to do this. Did you put in new ones, and if so, what mileage are you at?

Just broke 120k. Put new Densos in.

DocDoug wrote: ↑Mon Jan 28, 2013 5:31 pm

vibenvy wrote:The 2009 owner's manual lists the GM part number for the 1.8L spark plugs as: #19185438 and the Denso part number as: #SK20HR11.

Thanks for the info... but I have no trust in the owners manual. The manual also lists Dexcool as the coolant and other incorrect specifications. This is why I am hoping that someone who has actually pulled their own original plugs can post the part number.

Doc Doug

Good day to everyone in the Forum.

Sorry to resurrect an old topic, but Doc Doug's post about the inaccuracy of the Owners' Manual definitely got my attention. We have an '09 Vibe FWD with the 1.8L and 120,000 on the clock. We've owned it since 30,000. I wanted to replace the coolant and water pump and saw the manual specifies Dexcool. If not Dexcool, then what type?

We just had the cold-start rattle issue (T-SB-0087-09) repaired last week and the tech recommended replacing the spark plugs. I was going to use Autolite Double Platinum APP5683 (available locally at $5.50 each) instead of the OE Denso. I thought about buying Denso's online but noticed a lot of comments about people being sold counterfeit Denso's. Any opinion on the Autolite's welcome...

https://www.autozone.com/external-engin ... 256473_0_0

The only other maintenance item I can think of is the automatic transmission. It performs just fine, but has never been serviced, and has never needed oil. I haven't checked the manual yet for recommended maintenance, but is the ATF specification in the manual also inaccurate?

Apologies in advance if these questions have already been answered elsewhere.

CARIBOU wrote: ↑Fri Feb 14, 2020 8:34 am

DocDoug wrote: ↑Mon Jan 28, 2013 5:31 pm

vibenvy wrote:The 2009 owner's manual lists the GM part number for the 1.8L spark plugs as: #19185438 and the Denso part number as: #SK20HR11.

Thanks for the info... but I have no trust in the owners manual. The manual also lists Dexcool as the coolant and other incorrect specifications. This is why I am hoping that someone who has actually pulled their own original plugs can post the part number.

Doc Doug

Good day to everyone in the Forum.

Sorry to resurrect an old topic, but Doc Doug's post about the inaccuracy of the Owners' Manual definitely got my attention. We have an '09 Vibe FWD with the 1.8L and 120,000 on the clock. We've owned it since 30,000. I wanted to replace the coolant and water pump and saw the manual specifies Dexcool. If not Dexcool, then what type?

We just had the cold-start rattle issue (T-SB-0087-09) repaired last week and the tech recommended replacing the spark plugs. I was going to use Autolite Double Platinum APP5683 (available locally at $5.50 each) instead of the OE Denso. I thought about buying Denso's online but noticed a lot of comments about people being sold counterfeit Denso's. Any opinion on the Autolite's welcome...

https://www.autozone.com/external-engin ... 256473_0_0

The only other maintenance item I can think of is the automatic transmission. It performs just fine, but has never been serviced, and has never needed oil. I haven't checked the manual yet for recommended maintenance, but is the ATF specification in the manual also inaccurate?

Apologies in advance if these questions have already been answered elsewhere.

For coolant, look for the Toyota Long Life Coolant. It's pink/red. OEM Toyota is what you want.

Plugs-- most recommend either Denso or NGK plugs.

Tranny fluid-- simply just do a drain and fill using the correct trans fluid. I believe the Castrol Multi-Vehicle is what is calls for.

zbyers wrote: ↑Fri Feb 14, 2020 8:55 am For coolant, look for the Toyota Long Life Coolant. It's pink/red. OEM Toyota is what you want.

Plugs-- most recommend either Denso or NGK plugs.

Tranny fluid-- simply just do a drain and fill using the correct trans fluid. I believe the Castrol Multi-Vehicle is what is calls for.

The coolant in the ‘03 Vibe I just purchased is green. Can I just drain and refill with the Toyota pink, or do I need to flush with distilled water first?

FrankenVibe wrote: ↑Tue Mar 03, 2020 2:14 am

zbyers wrote: ↑Fri Feb 14, 2020 8:55 am For coolant, look for the Toyota Long Life Coolant. It's pink/red. OEM Toyota is what you want.

Plugs-- most recommend either Denso or NGK plugs.

Tranny fluid-- simply just do a drain and fill using the correct trans fluid. I believe the Castrol Multi-Vehicle is what is calls for.

The coolant in the ‘03 Vibe I just purchased is green. Can I just drain and refill with the Toyota pink, or do I need to flush with distilled water first?

I have the same issue, green antifreeze from previous owners maintenance.
Now that it is getting warmer I plan to drain and flush with distilled water, then refill with Toyota Red Long Life Antifreeze.
I will probably drain and flush it twice before refilling with the new stuff.

SSizler wrote: ↑Tue Mar 03, 2020 9:24 am

FrankenVibe wrote: ↑Tue Mar 03, 2020 2:14 am

zbyers wrote: ↑Fri Feb 14, 2020 8:55 am For coolant, look for the Toyota Long Life Coolant. It's pink/red. OEM Toyota is what you want.

Plugs-- most recommend either Denso or NGK plugs.

Tranny fluid-- simply just do a drain and fill using the correct trans fluid. I believe the Castrol Multi-Vehicle is what is calls for.

The coolant in the ‘03 Vibe I just purchased is green. Can I just drain and refill with the Toyota pink, or do I need to flush with distilled water first?

I have the same issue, green antifreeze from previous owners maintenance.
Now that it is getting warmer I plan to drain and flush with distilled water, then refill with Toyota Red Long Life Antifreeze.
I will probably drain and flush it twice before refilling with the new stuff.

IF you do a hot drain, you don't have to flush it twice. The short is this - pull loose the top hose on the radiator. Extend that out with a plug and a hose to either a collection bucket or to the grass. No, it won't hurt the grass, nor any pets if you make sure it's absorbed into the dirt. flush out the overflow container with distilled water, then drain it out as much as you can. (Short cut - open the stopcock on the radiator and drain out what's in there, close the stopcock, and fill the radiator with distilled water) Pop off the radiator cap, put the heater into heat mode in the cabin, and fire up the engine. Once the fluid level starts to drop in the radiator, pour more distilled water in. Keep doing this until the water flowing out of the hose is clear. If you're using pre-diluted, shut the engine off, drain the radiator, then fill with pre-diluted, and turn the engine back on. Keep filling with the pre-diluted until it stops running clear. If concentrate, make sure you know how much you need, drain out the radiator, cork it, fill with the concentrate, then start the engine up until you've put enough concentrate.

What I tend to do, rather than do the draining - because I don't want to burp the engine - is wait until the fluid level drops pretty far in the radiator, then start pouring in water, and then later the concentrate. It may waste a bit more water/concentrate, but it means I don't have to stop and turn the engine on and off. It's also as complete of a flush as it's possible to get without dismantling the engine.

Bookworm wrote: ↑Tue Mar 03, 2020 10:32 am IF you do a hot drain, you don't have to flush it twice. The short is this - pull loose the top hose on the radiator. Extend that out with a plug and a hose to either a collection bucket or to the grass. No, it won't hurt the grass, nor any pets if you make sure it's absorbed into the dirt. flush out the overflow container with distilled water, then drain it out as much as you can. (Short cut - open the stopcock on the radiator and drain out what's in there, close the stopcock, and fill the radiator with distilled water) Pop off the radiator cap, put the heater into heat mode in the cabin, and fire up the engine. Once the fluid level starts to drop in the radiator, pour more distilled water in. Keep doing this until the water flowing out of the hose is clear. If you're using pre-diluted, shut the engine off, drain the radiator, then fill with pre-diluted, and turn the engine back on. Keep filling with the pre-diluted until it stops running clear. If concentrate, make sure you know how much you need, drain out the radiator, cork it, fill with the concentrate, then start the engine up until you've put enough concentrate.

What I tend to do, rather than do the draining - because I don't want to burp the engine - is wait until the fluid level drops pretty far in the radiator, then start pouring in water, and then later the concentrate. It may waste a bit more water/concentrate, but it means I don't have to stop and turn the engine on and off. It's also as complete of a flush as it's possible to get without dismantling the engine.

This is the first time I’ve ever heard of this procedure, very interesting! I’ll search for a video on it just so I can run through it in my head a couple of times (I’m more of a visual or tactile learner) and give it a shot. Thank you!

FrankenVibe wrote: ↑Wed Mar 04, 2020 11:38 am

Bookworm wrote: ↑Tue Mar 03, 2020 10:32 am IF you do a hot drain, you don't have to flush it twice. The short is this - pull loose the top hose on the radiator. Extend that out with a plug and a hose to either a collection bucket or to the grass. No, it won't hurt the grass, nor any pets if you make sure it's absorbed into the dirt. flush out the overflow container with distilled water, then drain it out as much as you can. (Short cut - open the stopcock on the radiator and drain out what's in there, close the stopcock, and fill the radiator with distilled water) Pop off the radiator cap, put the heater into heat mode in the cabin, and fire up the engine. Once the fluid level starts to drop in the radiator, pour more distilled water in. Keep doing this until the water flowing out of the hose is clear. If you're using pre-diluted, shut the engine off, drain the radiator, then fill with pre-diluted, and turn the engine back on. Keep filling with the pre-diluted until it stops running clear. If concentrate, make sure you know how much you need, drain out the radiator, cork it, fill with the concentrate, then start the engine up until you've put enough concentrate.

What I tend to do, rather than do the draining - because I don't want to burp the engine - is wait until the fluid level drops pretty far in the radiator, then start pouring in water, and then later the concentrate. It may waste a bit more water/concentrate, but it means I don't have to stop and turn the engine on and off. It's also as complete of a flush as it's possible to get without dismantling the engine.

This is the first time I’ve ever heard of this procedure, very interesting! I’ll search for a video on it just so I can run through it in my head a couple of times (I’m more of a visual or tactile learner) and give it a shot. Thank you!

I learned it from my father, and I've been doing it since I had a 1981 Ford Escort. Never had a problem with it. Now, I do tend to use that as a good time to replace the hoses, if they need it. Usually it's just the top hose (hot water). I've had a number of those go out, but I can't remember the last bottom hose that I had that failed.

That's roughly how the Prestone "Kits" for flushing work, as well. You can use one of those kits - I don't cut the hose, I just disconnect it from the radiator

Bookworm wrote: ↑Tue Mar 03, 2020 10:32 am IF you do a hot drain, you don't have to flush it twice. The short is this - pull loose the top hose on the radiator. Extend that out with a plug and a hose to either a collection bucket or to the grass.

Hi, I'm about to try to do a radiator flush on a '03 base Vibe and I'm wondering about this plug and extending with a hose. Could you describe this plug setup or have a picture? What do you make the plug out of? And what do you do to the port on the radiator where you removed the hose -- plug that too?

Thanks

Sorry about not responding (for anyone reading at this point, a year and change later)

Basically, they sell radiator flush kits at the parts store. You pull loose the top radiator hose at the radiator, and open the cap. Attach the flush kit 'tee' or reducer to the hose, and attach another piece of hose of some sort. If you don't care about getting your feet wet, you can drop it straight down inside the engine compartment. No, the compounds used in coolant will not hurt your grass, but I wouldn't drop them into a storm sewer or anywhere an animal might try to drink it, even diluted.

Run the engine with the heater core open until the thermostat relief valve ('thermostat') pops open, and you start seeing coolant flow out.

Wait for the coolent level to drop halfway or so, and start adding distilled water. keep adding distilled water until it runs clean. Let it then run until you've lost enough water to compensate for the full strength mix you'll be adding - add enough to hit the right mix point for your area. Shut off the engine, do a 50/50 mix in the overflow bottle, reattach the hose, and start the engine again. Leave the cap off, and let it burp itself a bit, and top off. Shut off, cool, cap engine, and you're done.

You can replace the 'add concentrate' with 'add pre-mix' if you want, and just wait until the clear water runs coloured.

I get it, you're basically using the water pump to push the old stuff out. Just wondering when you pull the top hose from the radiator what you do with that radiator port... leave it open? Or plug it somehow? Or attach the flush kit T some whay? If you only use the T as a reducer there's still one unused port on it -- cap that?

By the way, how often does one need to do this with Toyota Long Life coolant? (Not super long life). I thought 5yrs but now I'm worried it's only 2..

I left out a step that makes it fun on the 03-08 vibes.

The return hose from the engine is actually _below_ the filler neck. That means that you can actually end up pouring the new fluid out while you're trying to keep the radiator topped of for the flush.

Best thing to do - Get an adapter from the hardware store - NOT the stupid flush kids from Prestone. I have to correct my previous suggestion - They no longer fit the large hoses; you're supposed to tap into the heater hoses behind the engine. What a pain that would be. (I think the hoses are 1 1/4" internal diameter. I'll try to check my adapter later)

Anyway, get an adapter from the hardware store. Make a cork if you can for the radiator itself, so the water doesn't flow out that hole (or just have someone watch for you while you're pouring in fluid. If you have a new top radiator hose, you can whack it in half and wedge the radiator side up higher. Put the adapter in the top hose, and then into something else to run off to the side to a bucket. (You can pour it on the ground if you're on grass. Just don't make puddles that an animal can drink, and try to stay at least 15-20 feet from your well head. ) I took it over to the side of the property and poured it on the canna lilies. Nothing kills those things.

You don't have to use the Toyota Pink if you don't want to. Any of the modern 'for Asian vehicle' coolants should work fine, if you're doing a full flush out. Not sure about the number of years you'll get.

Oh - when I drained the radiator, it drained part of the engine, because of the location of the connection. (I'm used to it always being at the bottom of the engine on all previous vehicles). Once I filled the radiator with distilled water, I also poured water into the top of the engine through the top hose, to make sure it wouldn't have issues overheating until the thermostat reopened.