GenVibe - Community for Pontiac Vibe Enthusiasts

my 04 pontiac vibe is leaking oil around the timing chain tensioner i want to change it but before i do what should i do before i remove it

Don't really need to do anything.

2 10mm nuts to remove to replace it. It'll only fit in one way

I did this exact repair over the weekend. I bought the Haynes manual just to be sure I knew what I was doing and also found some advice out there regarding adding RTV to he flange.
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The old tensioner was difficult to remove but you can access a small bit of the flange from the front side of the engine. I used a small punch and was able to tap on the flange enough to get it out.

The next item was that while I was installing the new tensioner I bumped the plunger before it was assembled and it released. The spring behind it pushed the plunger completely out. I reassembled it but does anyone know if there is anything more to this than the plunger, main spring, lock pin, and small lock pin spring? Mine appears to be working but I only have 50 miles on it thus far.

It wasn't a terrible job and would have only taken me 45min if I hadn't run into the two issues above. Took me 90min and <$30 for parts.

you should be fine

i replaced mine today in about 20min

took me more time to get a wrench on the crank pulley to turn it (to unlock the tensioner) than it did to get the part replaced

Is this my problem? Er, ONE of my problems? My power steering pump is getting an oil bath for the last few weeks.

I never seen one leak that bad check any hose connections.

I wasn't losing power steering fluid, so it was down to the tensioner, which I replaced today.
Took 20 minutes the first time and 10 minutes the second time.
Why twice? I didn't hear any click upon rotating the engine (windy, noisy outside). The latch hadn't tripped - so it's good I pulled it out to check!
The second tensioner installation took place inside my quiet garage - Good thing!, that is a very tiny "click" upon release. The release was confirmed upon turning the engine clockwise wherein the "ratchet" component of the plunger was heard "clicking" repeatedly (4 times?) as the plunger extended while taking-up the cam chain slack. I started the car and it runs and sounds normal - Success!
My notes:
1. Fully torque tensioner nuts before turning engine and releasing tensioner. The tensioner ratchet stops the plunger from ever backing up - further seating the assembly (once released) would over-tighten the cam chain. A re-check, or re-do means fully removing the tensioner to ensure the plunger is locked back with the tiny hook before re-insertion.
2. I didn't use ANY gasket sealer. There is essentially no gasket surface! The flange is as narrow as 1/16" on my new tensioner. It went 150K last time with only the O-ring, so thats good enough for me. I'll still watch for any leaks.
3. I rotated the engine by turning the nut/bolt on the alternator pulley. The new tensioner released upon turning the engine backwards (counter clockwise) and the plunger then extended - clicking the ratchet, immediately upon turning the engine clockwise as viewed from the passenger side of the engine.

UPDATE: My cam chain tensioner is leaking oil again! This time, I'll will also use RTV when I replace the O-ring.

Chiadog wrote:UPDATE: My cam chain tensioner is leaking oil again! This time, I'll will also use RTV when I replace the O-ring.

The tensioner will be very hard to press in for resetting due to oil in it. A new one is easy, a used one is very hard.

I have a spare O-ring myself, as I was only going to replace it, but then I saw how low priced the whole thing was, so I replaced the tensioner itself. I had already ordered just an O-ring though, so I have a spare. I kept the old tensioner as a spare too for the heck of it.

dpetersfam wrote:what should i do before i remove it

My motto is "you can't screw up if you clean up". I'd blast the area with some degreaser and brush it clean. The job itself is pretty straight forward.

Bill

I am going to do this job this evening. After installing the new one, does it matter which way you rotate the engine to release it? Also, how does cranking the engine with no tension on the chain not cause it to jump teeth?

Yamahammer wrote:I am going to do this job this evening. After installing the new one, does it matter which way you rotate the engine to release it? Also, how does cranking the engine with no tension on the chain not cause it to jump teeth?

I will be doing this soon myself. I was planning on rotating the engine the same way it runs normally. I've read conflicting suggestions about which way to go so I'm concerned about trashing the engine.

This video of an older 1ZZ-FE Corolla at the 4:23 mark shows the engine being turned over manually to release the plunger.

I'll have the valve cover pulled at the same time so I can make sure the plunger extends as it should.