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Rear wheel bearing replacement
Posted: Tue Aug 23, 2011 9:57 pm
by hapagan
Ive been looking for the past couple of days on how to do this and i finally found a DIY so i decided to post it here just in case anybody else needs it.
http://www.diymytoyota.com/cor...ement/it seems relatively easy. im waiting for my wheel hubs to get here (got them from rock auto) and then ill start the project. i will try to post pics of how it goes. if anybody who's done this before has any tips please share. they will be greatly appreciated
Re: Rear wheel bearing replacement (hapagan)
Posted: Wed Aug 24, 2011 12:01 am
by joatmon
looks like a good write up and straightforward process.how much does the part cost?
Posted: Wed Aug 24, 2011 3:38 am
by hapagan
rock auto had the whole rear hub assy no ABS for $68 shipped. which is a great price compared to the 160 that the autoshop wanted just for the bearing + 99 labor + 30 shop supplies. i bought both sides and will do the work once they get in and i get a day off work
Posted: Wed Aug 24, 2011 4:40 am
by hapagan
the only thing is im not sure what this means " Rest the drum against the FORWARD edge of the lugs so that it doesn’t slip when braking." idk if anyone can help out but i would appreciate it.
Re: (hapagan)
Posted: Wed Aug 24, 2011 5:32 am
by joatmon
Quote, originally posted by hapagan »the only thing is im not sure what this means " Rest the drum against the FORWARD edge of the lugs so that it doesn’t slip when braking." idk if anyone can help out but i would appreciate it. I understand what they are saying, but it is convoluted to explain in unambiguous terms. Would be easier to show you, but I don't feel like a road trip or making a movie ;PThink rotational, not linear. The holes in the drum are not a tight fit around the lugs. Before you put the wheel on, if you hold the hub/lugs completely stationary, you should be able to spin the drum back and forth a small amount. they are saying take up that slack so the drum can't possibly spin relative to the lugs when you brake. If you don't have the wheel torqued on, when you hit the brakes, the drum will move in the opposite direction to the normal wheel spin direction. . It won't really move backwards, but it will move backwards relative to the direction the wheels are turning.So normal driving, the driver's side wheels turn counter clockwise, when viewed form the driver's side of the vehicle. When you put the driver's side drum on, hold the lugs stationary and rotate the drum clockwise to take up that small amount of play. That way, when it's all back together and tight, there's the edge of the lug as well as the clamping friction from the torqued on wheel to hold the drum in place relative to the wheel. No room for movement when braking. Similarly, on the passenger side, spin the drum counter clockwise relative to the lugs.At least that's how I see it. I never did that when I put my Vibe's drums on, so I can't say if it is a required step or not. Guess it makes sense, and now maybe I'll think of doing that the next time I pull a drum. Or maybe not
Posted: Wed Aug 24, 2011 5:41 am
by hapagan
still lost lol. i mean its only like what 18 hour drive down ? think about it....lol jk
Re: (hapagan)
Posted: Wed Aug 24, 2011 6:44 am
by joatmon
ok, in this drawing, there are five solid black dots. They represent the lug studs. Around each dot is a thin circle. The circles represent the holes in the drum. You see there is extra space, the lugs do not completely fill the hole.This picture represents the driver's side. When you put the drum on the driver's side, position the drum and the lugs in the holes so that the extra space is as shown. For the passenger side, use a mirror image of the picture, position the drum so that the extra space is on the other side of the lugI still don't think it really matters
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Re: (joatmon)
Posted: Wed Aug 24, 2011 11:57 am
by cj847
The statement about the drum does not make sense. When you put the drum back on it should barely fit back over the shoes. I like to spin it one or two turns to make sure it's well centered. The drum should lightly drag on the shoes, if not you need to go thru a brake adjustment process.
Posted: Wed Aug 24, 2011 11:39 pm
by hapagan
well ill try it out and let u know the outcome.... will post pics. and thnx a lot
Re: Rear wheel bearing replacement
Posted: Sat Jul 05, 2014 6:38 am
by patrickogrady
This looked easy enough, but my hub is seized into the backing plate from rust, I soaked it with penetrating fluid and whacked at it a good while, no luck. Any suggestions?
Re: Rear wheel bearing replacement
Posted: Sat Jul 05, 2014 1:09 pm
by sideshowalan
Were you able to get the 4 bolts off of the back? If so It's just a matter of hitting it hard enough from behind.
Re: Rear wheel bearing replacement
Posted: Sun Jul 06, 2014 7:15 am
by patrickogrady
Yes, no problem getting those off. The 2 lower bolts are so corroded I would not recommend reusing them, I assume dealers have them. Anyway, I let it sit overnight, and with generous amounts of Liquid Wrench and hammer blows I got nowhere. I can't keep bashing at it, or I'll likely mess up the brake line. So it's time to let a pro take over.
Re: Rear wheel bearing replacement
Posted: Sat Jul 12, 2014 4:21 am
by Kinleysman
patrickogrady wrote:Yes, no problem getting those off. The 2 lower bolts are so corroded I would not recommend reusing them, I assume dealers have them. Anyway, I let it sit overnight, and with generous amounts of Liquid Wrench and hammer blows I got nowhere. I can't keep bashing at it, or I'll likely mess up the brake line. So it's time to let a pro take over.
How did you get the bolts off??? Frustrated with them!!