GenVibe - Community for Pontiac Vibe Enthusiasts

My new Vibe is 3 months old, I'm waiting on a part to fix MY NEW CAR, it needs a new Recirculate door motor, with the fan off or on it still clunks, very loudly, it was supposed to go on vacation this week, any other new Vibe owners having this problem?

Silverawd26 is right. No one else here has had a problem like this. Take it do the dealer before you go on your trip.

Never heard of this happening before.

Wendy, One of the Vibes I own has the exact same problem, you are definately not alone on this problem. Apparently, this is a fairly common problem, as a couple of dealerships that I contacted knew of it. Also, the part takes a long time to get. I had them disconnect the motor till they received the part to do the work. That clicking sound can get annoying awful quick!In the mean time, sometimes if you toggle between fresh and recirc, the motor will get caught and temporarily not click. Also, if you hold the button in the middle between recirc and fresh ( tape or finger etc) then it also will not click. You fid out all sorts of ways to make it go away when you have to hear it on a 300 mi road trip. The best advice was from the service manager.....TURN UP THE STEREO REAL LOUD!!!good luck!-Chad

I know there are a lot of threads on this since this one, but you know how I am about such thingsAnyway, today I noticed I have joined the club. Sound goes away when I turn it to recirc, comes back when I set it to fresh air.

I know you can use the search feature, but to make life simple for you...http://forums.genvibe.com/zerothread?id=24332If you have experience pulling the dash, won't take more than an hour or two...pretty simple actually.

I have the same issue, I just unplugged it for a while. Then I came acroos this post and the link to more on it. The part number from the other thread is still good Part #88970277 Actuator Butsince the thread it has gone up a bit It is now $38.00+ 10.95 S&H= $48.95I ordered mine today. I will let you know if it can be done with out taking the top of the dash out.

It may be possible to do this without dash removal.http://forums.genvibe.com/zerothread?id=29575

Well, I finally got around to replacing my servo motor. It can be done with out removing the top of the dash! And I had serious neck surgery a couple months ago! Here is my story... I removed the glove box door. Unplugged the servo and the white connector to the left and hung it out of my way up near the round tubular support. The lower screw can be removed with a 1/4 inch drive ratchet and 7/32 short socket. The upper screw can be felt and even get socket on it but good luck turning it. I thought about it and removed my radio. You can see the top screw between the defrost plastic and the vent plastic. with about 12-15" of 1/4 inch drive extensions and a univesal at the short socket you can reach your right hand up through the glove box hole and put socket on the screw and hold it there while the left hand is in the radio hole working the ratchet. Remove old servo, making sure the shaft is turned the same way, or clock the new motor and turn into place. It only sits in there one way. start upper screw by hand and then do the left hand in radio hole and right hand in glove box and tighten the screw. reinstall the lower the same way you removed it. Remember to plug everything back in when you are putting the radio and bezel back in as well as the white connestor and servo plug. Turn key on and push max button and watch that new servo go! Put glove box back on and you should be set! In the picture, you can see the gold color top screw at about center of picture.

Attached files

I just used your idea of going through the radio opening and from start to finish i was done in under an hour. Great advice, Thanks!!

Thats great!! Glad I could help.... now about that favor you owe me.... hahahahaha! Any one think this method is worth a Sticky?

I couldn't help my self, I had to tear it apart and see what went wrong.....couldn't remember how to put picture in post so open the attachment and see the teeth missing right where the smaller black gear engages the large white gear...missing teeth!

Attached files

Same deal here. Through the radio opening, out in 20 min. 5.5 ml is a tighter fit on socket, and tape off the knuckle to limit the wobble. No problem at all. If you need a quick fix or wanr to save $50, just open up the old case, rotate the large white gear 180 degrees, and your back in business. The full travel doesn't use the whole gear. Bad design, always under load, teeth break. Oh well, ready to do it again in another 75k miles.

Glad the thru the radio hole worked for ya! And your idea to turn gear 180 degrees is great. I can't believe I didn't think of that. But, not knowing what was wrong before I took it out, I just bought a new one. So.... If you are reading this post for ideas of what is wrong with yours, and you have a bit of mechanical apttitude, take the housing apart and trun gear 180 degrees and save $40! Be sure to mark the gear so you get it the full 180 degrees! Thanks for another great tip Slaning!

BTW, what do they make these housings out of? These clips, just like the cabin filter clips, snap off like bakelite (yeah, I'm an old guy), so be careful. I'm a new poster, but have been through the belt tensioner, window bolts, dash back lights, rear wiper blade, and other deals with the wife's Vibe, and Genvibe always bats 1000!

Well, I'll be darned, you are new here!! WELCOME! (from another older guy!) I don't know what the housing is made of but I to, didn't have much luck with the clips, but realy wasn't careful because it was broken! More then likely, they made them this way so you have to buy new parts. Ah the good ole days when things screwed together and were made of metal! Hahahaha! Again Welcome aboard and glad you found us.

I do not know for sure if this would prevent this problem on the Vibe, but I know it does on other vehicles I have owned. Before shifting between outside and inside (recirc) air I lower the fan speed to the slowest position wait about 5 seconds then return the fan speed to the original setting. This way the actuaters do not have to work so hard.

I suppose the air pressure a fan can cause could stress the motor a bit... food for thought.

Yes I had this problem. Other forum on this site mentioned it probably was an actuator in the recirculate motor. Took it to my dealer and sure enough--that was the problem. Cost--$200 parts and labour.

OUCH! I think I spent $48 bucks and a coupld hours of my time. But thats ok. Glad ya got it fixed.

Um, yeah, Kari and I were talking about recirc the other day and I mentioned this flaw. Yesterday it started clicking. I tried it last night for a sec but it wasn't clicking, we'll see how long that lasts.I should change my name to IBreakVibes. Although I see no reason why I should be held accountable for what is an obvious design flaw in these vehicles.I guess I'll get the part and try the install without ripping the dash out. I'd rather not mess around with the air bag over there. I have scrawny arms and hands so with the right tools maybe it is doable.

Quote, originally posted by VibeMike »Yes I had this problem. Other forum on this site mentioned it probably was an actuator in the recirculate motor. Took it to my dealer and sure enough--that was the problem. Cost--$200 parts and labour.Ditto in Oct. '08- $191.70 including tax (got 10% discount on parts and labor). Went to dealer as my skills are limited to things like changing wiper blades, swapping out a rear view mirror with one bought on eBay, and maybe a battery install. Only second repair in nearly 6 years so not too disappointed. The mirror issue was a bad push button light switch. If I had been paying attention I would have caught that before the warranty ran out.

Well, thanks to you guys I just fixed mine. Didn't want to wait around for the new servo motor to arrive, so I just spun the main gear 180 deg. Works great. Hopefully I'll get another 7 years before the teeth break off again.

Just remember to floss and brush at least twice a day and your teeth should be just fine!! Glad we could help!! Oh yeah.. send check or cash to.....

This problem randomly cropped up today in my 2003 at 167k... Was very confusing at first but now that I know the culprit I can hopefully fix the issue this weekend when it warms up a bit outside. I've had luck switching between recirculated/non recirculated air to get the clunking to stop. It does it om both settings but if i switch it to whatever the car wasnt on at startup seems to help for whatever reason. Keeping it on A/C seems to reduce the chances of it happening too. Very weird... Any ideas why this works?

go here....http://forums.genvibe.com/zerothread?id=46444

I have a Vibe 2007 and have the stripped motor gear.

When you start the car and the fan is off you get a reading of +13V to the motor gear.
When you turn the fan on you get the same reading of +13V to the motor gear.
If you have the fan on and AC and push Re-circulate you get -13V to the motor gear.

My question is what else is wrong? I am getting power to the re-circulation motor gear all the time?
I also purchased a new motor gear and it spins all the time when plugged in.
What else do I need to check and fix to get the +13V to only go on when needed?

Thanks
Tim H.

The same problem occurred in my 2004 Vibe at 134k miles.

I liked the post about rotating the servo gear 180 degrees so went that route.

I took the glove box out and used a 7/32 socket driver to get the bottom bolt out and using latex gloves for a better grip, was able to use just the socket without the driver to get the top bolt out.

When undoing the clips on the servo, be careful not to bend them back too far as they can break off, depending on how old the plastic is. There are 6 and I broke 1 off and seriously stressed a second. I rotated the gear and was able to put everything back together easily.

The job took about 30-40 min.

You need small hands to do the job this way but it is definitely doable. You can even get two hands in when putting the bottom bolt back by having your left hand go from below the glove box near the blower motor and your right hand going through the glove box opening.

Greetings,

My 2004 has 186,000 on it and I just performed the "through the radio hole" surgery. So far so good and I was able to reuse the servo as described in earlier posts. No more clicking ! I broke one tang on the servo case but a little super glue is holding that fine. It took me more than 20 minutes and some busted knuckles but good deal Lucille. Muchas gracias to all the pioneers that posted their tips and for being able to search this on the internet.

I replaced the radio LCD backlights while the radio was out and looks great (after 50,000 miles of blank screen ... guessing what radio station I was on) .... also glad I was able to do that for a few bucks via posts on related GenVibe thread.

Kudos to all,
Bill
Laramie, Wyoming

I read this post and followed the instructions down to getting the thing out and apart. The posts were a great help but I found a few things helpful when I and my wife made our successful attempt at this:

- I placed a firm couch pillow on the passenger foot well to support my upper back and head when removing the lower screw.
- We removed the radio and my wife could get at the top bolt with her small hands, I lay under and pushed on the servo case to remove the tension on the screw (she could then very slowly back the thing out) - She is awesome
- When taking the gearbox apart, the clips were individually and very carefully held back with a screwdriver while my wife inserted some thin cardboard strips across the clip bits to hold each in place. In my case the gearing was stripped on the door gear and while I didn't necessarily need to take the case apart, I wouldn't have known how badly the gears were without doing so.
- I didn't to this at first, but learned the hard way: mark the position of the gear hub that sticks out and engages the flap door BEFORE you take it apart. That way you can get is closer to 180, and not have it rotate back to the bad spot after you have placed it back in position.
- When placing the unit back, the door is just hanging down in a mid position. Plug it in and place in position, but do not screw the thing down. If you screwed up the placement and it is difficult to get back together (easy since the flap is not going to be in the same place as you left it) have someone turn the key to the 'accesory' position. This will make the door gear-motor slowly spin. Then you can apply pressure to the hub at the stub shaft of the door until then align and hold it with your hand to visually align the thing into position. There is a boss near the lower screw position on my Vibe which aided this. In my case, I waited too long and the gear rotated back to it's original position! I was going to take the gear box apart, but then my brain kicked in. All I needed to do it mark the now obvious 'bad' section, give it a little mechanical resistance (my finger) and the gear would take off again. So with the car in ACC I got it going again past the bad bit, it caught the swing door and opened/closed it (matter of perspective and switching). The time it took me to get into position insured I was using a fresh arc of the gear teeth.

Anyway - I put everything back and even got the screws back in using all the techniques described throughout this post, high fived the wife (again, she is awesome), and now the insane clicking noise is gone.

This is a great website and my first post on it. I thought they were significant lessons learned, so...

Thought I would share.


Frappysnail - 2003 standard transmission standard Vibe

frappysnail, kudos to you and your wife for a job well done!

Great first post, welcome aboard.

I have an 04 vibe, the recirculate will not work, I am always getting air coming out of the vents while driving when the unit of off, even with the recirculate switch depressed.

This is air being forced into the car from the outside while driving because the damper it in the open position.

Before I go through this procedure do you think the servo is my issue, I am not getting any type of clicking sound from the dash.

I have another 04 vibe, I thought the issue was the switch, so I swapped the switches in both cars, and both switches are good.

just finished with the fix!!!! Thanks everyone for all the help, I was able to remove both the top and bottom screws by going in through the remove glove compartment door. I removed the radio too so there was enough room to get my hand and ratchet in there. Had trouble figuring how to disconnect the recirc wire but after I took out the screws and removed the part I was able to get a better look at it and find the clip holding the wires in.

After I got it out and took it apart it was easy to compare it to the picture and rotate the gears 180 degrees and put it back in. Did a test run and the noise is gone, YEA!!

My Vibe is a 2005 and has 248,000 miles on it. It's been very, very good to me.


be checking in again soon

Mike

I am surprised that is the largest gear (White) that is stripped since it appears to be the most substantial in size and width of the teeth. I wonder if that is the drive gear or is it the little black one beside it?

I've not had one of these apart so I don't know; but do you think a lack of lubricate is a contributing factor - like the silicone grease getting dried out where the teeth mesh together ?

WELL.... I 180 the white large gear and it still gets the pop, pop sound. I looked at all gears under magnifying glass only White large has tooth missing .darn it...! It does not do it with the recirc button pushed. But also ONE of the plastic shafts for one gear is on is floating unless pushed into "other side" and may be broken. This is for the BLUE gear. Does the matrix use the same part ? See, mine and yours does not look like the page above from the Matrix manual....it's likely cheaper from Toyota. But need to be sure it works in Vibes.>>>> UPDATE 9/8....I MADE A POST TO REPLACE THE BROKEN PLASTIC ONE. I measured the old post ...basically 3.5 mm thick 20mm long. There are CHEAP steel rods you can buy. But none were close enough to 3.5m and those rods bend easily. I found hardened 4mm bolts 70mm long. 30mm of it was smooth. Smooth section measured 3.85mm and over 25mm long. I simply cut the hex head off and "turned" it down on my drill press(aka poor man's lathe) using hardened flat chainsaw file and sandpapers 220 to 1500. The result 3.53mm fits perfect. Next> perfectly drill a hole where the original shaft broke. Assembled the cases...new shaft stuck out and was cut down so only stuck out 1mm and was glued in place from the outside. Now it's the way it should have been made. Yes all was greased with quality dielectric grease because it is safe for all plastics. Took less than an hour to make the shaft. Works perfect. Sorry I do not know how to attach pictures on this site. I guess I can fix anything mechanical...when I have to.

The Door is working with the 180 fix. Also I'm not sure how anyone was able to get at the top screw with a ratchet wrench even with the radio out. I have a stubby 1/4 drive, wobble and a flex joint and still couldn't get at it because of a vent hose in the way. I could get the socket on there but just couldn't get enough torque to turn the screw even with rubber gloves. After dorking around with it for a while, grabbed some duct tape, about 1ft long and 3/4" wide, wrapped it around the 7/32 socket one way the reversed it with the sticky side up. Got the socket on and the screw came right out. Broke one of the tabs on the Actuator. Putting it back in was a breeze with ducted taped socket.

Duct Tape FTW!!!

the trick is getting an angle past the vent tube...Do you know what a u-joint is ? Starting LEFT of the vent tube in the radio area.. I used a 1/4" u-joint and some 1/4 extensions and a wobble extension,total about 12" or so long .... to get that top screw out. Although the wobble type was not absolutely needed.

I did this job not long ago and used a screwdriver bit (the short kind that goes in the magnetic bit holder) and the matching open end wrench to get the screws out. Using the bit/wrench combo gave the space needed to start the screw loose, then I went in with a taped socket to take it all the way out. I was able to do everything only taking out the glove box.

Only thing that would have made it easier would have been a gear wrench that fit the bit... then it would have been REALLY easy (relatively speaking).

Yea I had a U-joint thingy but couldn't quite get it in there. The taped up socket worked well and used it to install the screws also. Just want to post another option just removing the Glove Box. Taking out the Radio was useless.

taking the radio out is key to doing this. FROM THE SIDE for the top screw. Yes the vent is in the way. But it gives a bit or enough to get the job done. Unless you BIG hands then you are not going to like this in any way you do it. YES, I forgot,,, so nothing just fell apart, I used electrical tape on the 7/32 socket...and other joints.

I suppose Toyota is still using this same part that is destined to fail - helps keep the dealer repair shop profitable.

I have the service manual and the toyota part picture looks different than the Vibe unit. Like the heater fan resistor design...the toyota motor part may be different-better... vs. GM. ......EX: toyota has no issues with the heater fan resistor block...but most Vibes do. Has anyone compared the flapper motor parts side by side ?

From looking at the cars side by side the AC system is different. Now as far as all the blowers, resistor packs, recirc doors and etc I don't know. However it seems the Matrix has fewer issues with these items and that would leave me to believe a lot of the HVAC system is GM

Salsa Guy wrote:Yea I had a U-joint thingy but couldn't quite get it in there. The taped up socket worked well and used it to install the screws also. Just want to post another option just removing the Glove Box. Taking out the Radio was useless.

In this link is my pic of the tools I used.

viewtopic.php?t=38246" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

THAT LINK SHOWS A LOT more than I used. for the upper screw...simply 1/4" ratchet, extension(s) a 1/4 u-joint and the 7/32 or 5.5 socket. The vent tube is plastic...it gives. The most difficult thing is you lose feel for when the screw it fully tight. So replacing the ratchet with a "nut driver" handle might help. The whole job requires BOTH hands and a light touch.

As someone mentioned elsewhere relate to this fix, the size of your hands has a lot to do with the ease of success besides the other "tools".

Glad it worked for you.

Good to know that there is useful info on this site being posted by helping members.

Confirming this can be done by removing glove box and that rotating the stripped gear works (at least until more teeth break). All-in-all same experience as Salsa Guy. Taking out radio didn't help. I used socket wrench to take out bottom screw and break loose the top on (top screw is the only hard part of the whole thing). Couldn't get top one back in all the way, but it's pretty tight at just more than halfway in so I left it. Broke some of the clips but it went back together well with remaining clips. Been working fine for a week now.

REMOVING THE radio allows you to use a 1/4 inch wobble extenstion or universal joint on an extenstion to the top screw. Any other way makes it harder than it needs to be. A good flash light also makes a difference. make sure you use the correct socket, etc. I DO NOT have large hands. Which benefits me on this.

I just did this fix after several months of tapping. I decided to go for it since I replaced my blower motor yesterday.

Well, it took me well more than an hour...more like two...but the job is done and was a success. Thanks for all the tips on this thread.

I used both glovebox and radio openings, and did the 180 degree rotation of the large gear.

Not having the appropriate tools makes it harder, obviously, but I thought I'd share the rigs I used that I hadn't seen. To get to that top screw I put the socket on the eraser end of a pencil and used that to reach back there; since it's flexible I could line it up despite the approach angle. I used the same method to start the top screw upon reassembly.

To reach the socket once placed on the top screw I used a length of 1/2" pex I had laying around as a extension for the ratchet so I could reach under the dash while shining the light and looking in the radio opening.

Tedious is an understatement for this job!