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Installing LED's
Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 1:00 am
by dimdig23
So i ordered these off of amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/produ...oductI was just wondering if i should wire them to the fusebox and if i did that which wire i would use. I was looking at it today and saw the 12 volt cig lighter. I was wondering if i could use any wire out of that and splice the positive ends together and then ground the negative end. Would i want to disconnect the battery while doing this? Thanks for any help
Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 5:42 am
by audiovibe
If it were me I would run a fused wire from the battery to a switch somewhere. with this solution you would have no extra draw on any of the currently fused circuits.
Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 11:23 pm
by dimdig23
That would probably work well and i would reduce the risk of connecting to the wrong wire. I would either wanna use the cig lighter or dome lights but i could see myself using the wrong wire and messing it up
Posted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 10:33 am
by Mariachi
thats actually how i have my lights. all my lighting has a seperate 16 gauge wire from the battery fused off with a switch. works well and not had any problems for over a year.
Re: Installing LED's (dimdig23)
Posted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 12:15 pm
by tpollauf
Quote, originally posted by dimdig23 »I was just wondering if i should wire them to the fusebox and if i did that which wire i would use.YES ... Wire them independent of any other source AND have each LED mod FUSED As some of you may know by now, I've really dug into the LED mods myself and learned (actually re-learned) a lot about modern electronics. Those under dash LED's look like 80 total LED's which should draw less than ONE amp total! By fusing everything independently you'll be assured of NOT interrupting any other electrical component in the event your mod went wrong. I personally found out the hard way just recently when my HMBL 3rd brake lt, which I mod'd to include "park lights" BLEW the 10 amp fuse because one of my components touched ground AND I was driving at night with NO park lights at all I quickly fixed the problem and now have an independent 3amp fuse going to the "park circuit" portion of the mod This way if it ever goes bad again, ONLY the 3rd brake lt will go out AND not affect existing park lights