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door speaker midbass question
Posted: Wed May 19, 2010 10:58 am
by the_sarge
Hey all, I'm looking at replacing my trashed Blaupunkt components in my front doors. 2005 GT. The midbass with them always sucked--worse than the M&T speakers they replaced. Question: I've seen some pictures of the large holes in the door frame sealed up with some sheet metal. I can do that--how big a difference does it make? Is it worth it? There will be some Polks going in there in place of the Blausm running off a 50W amp. Cheers--Steve
Re: door speaker midbass question (the_sarge)
Posted: Wed May 19, 2010 11:09 am
by papacueball
Totally worth it. It made a very noticeable difference with mine.
Posted: Wed May 19, 2010 11:46 am
by audiovibe
Even using the stock system for comparison; I noticed a huge night and day difference in sealing and deadening the doors. I do think most of my gain was in sealing the doors and giving the speaker a better enclosure to work in. I would most certainly seal up the doors, probably one of the best audio decisions you will make.
Posted: Thu May 20, 2010 12:45 am
by cptnsolo77
It does make sense. To seal the door holes I have seen members use dynamat. Is there a cheaper alternative? Aluminum tape maybe LOL ? The reason im asking is because I picked up a pair of Polk DB651s speakers for the front & since im going to be in there....
Posted: Thu May 20, 2010 1:56 am
by BlueVibe09
When I replaced my speakers I cut out some thin wooden rings made out of luan to fill the gaps and mount the speakers to. I put some silicon caulk on the back to make sure they sealed up good. They worked great and cost nothing to make. And I agree it does make a noticeable difference.
Re: (cptnsolo77)
Posted: Thu May 20, 2010 7:51 am
by audiovibe
Quote, originally posted by cptnsolo77 »To seal the door holes I have seen members use dynamat. Is there a cheaper alternative?I used some 16 or 18ga sheet metal to seat up the big holes before I deadened over them. This will make the area more ridged and less prone to flex. This will also allow you to have an access panel in case something needs to be done window related..
Posted: Thu May 20, 2010 10:54 pm
by the_sarge
Thanks guys for the confirmation! I'm going to go ahead and do it--not sure if I'll go the sheet metal (better overall) or luan (cheaper/easier to work). Any reason NOT to use luan?
Re: (audiovibe)
Posted: Fri May 21, 2010 1:17 am
by glennpert
yes there is a cheaper alternative to dynamat. I used some adhesive roof flashing that i got from either lowe's or home depot. It looks just like dynamat and i have never had a problem with it.
Posted: Fri May 21, 2010 2:28 am
by cptnsolo77
Cool. Does it have a odor?
Re: (cptnsolo77)
Posted: Fri May 21, 2010 4:28 am
by audiovibe
Quote, originally posted by cptnsolo77 »Cool. Does it have a odor?As long as it is not an asphalt based mat you will not get an odor. If it is asphalt based you will get an odor but will go away over time I believe. I used a butyl based deadener from RaamAudio, the BTX I believe. Another great company that makes deadener is Second Skin Audio. Once again a great product, a little costlier then RaamAudio but still way cheaper then Dynamat.If you ar ereally considering a deadner check out this linkhttp://
www.dctra.org/files/197...n.pdfThis is an unbiased comparison of various deadners avaliable. If cost is an issue FYI you will only need approx 25% coverage, meaning you don't need to go crazy extreme and cover every square inch Like myself and Sublimewind did.
Posted: Fri May 21, 2010 10:20 am
by papacueball
The guy that did the testing in the pdf that audiovibe posted also sells deadener. http://www.sounddeadenershowdo...x.cgi