GenVibe - Community for Pontiac Vibe Enthusiasts

The goal was to get some decent bass without anything visible, and the cargo area still fully available. Just now got it done... finally. Lots of prep work, pics to come tomorrow along with a better description of the whole project.Needs to be worn in for a while but already it bumps harder than I ever expected a shallow sub to.

Show me Dammit don't be a tease haha

I would but I don't want to go outside and flash pictures of it since it's almost 1 am and it's parked on the street lol. I think the neighbors would wonder about me.Also I just noticed my signature says 10' instead of 10"I think I should write to RF and see if they can do a custom subwoofer for me...

Nice.... waiting for pics... BTW, i'm on another audio forum and a guy there is installing a 32" Clarion (IIRC) sub into a 70' honda civic...!!!!The thing is as big as the car... lol..

could you supply the link sublime? That would be amazin and hilarious to see. Just hearing it invokes memories of Chris Farley, "Fat guy in a little suit..."

Okay pictures are up.Anyway, the process was to cut out the bulge in the bottom of the tub with a rotozip, then use a thin steel plate and a rubber circle, along with some handy math skills to seal up the bottom by bolting the plate into the bottom of the tub, with the rubber seal between the plastic and steel. This required me to use a shorter bolt to hold the spare tire down underneath the tub. So I cut the head off a bolt, and got it to exactly what would fit under the tub and threaded it down into the floor underneath and locite'd it in place. Now I use the original grey plastic thing that used to hold the tub down, to hold down the tire. Then I cut the circle out of a plastic cutting board, I used this because the original intention was to glue it into place and I figured plastic to plastic bonding would be best. However, I decided instead to put a circular pattern of "bolts" through the tub so that I could use them to crank the top disc down into position onto it's seal which is made of pipe insulation. These "bolts" were made from straightened bucket handles that I ran a die down so that I could screw the nuts onto them from both ends, effectively compressing the top down into the tub and creating a good seal. Also, these take up only a little over 1 cubic inch so them being inside the enclosure has no effect on sound. I need to finish up with some black silicon and paint, just to make it look better really. I also need to fine tune something to keep the deck/floor above it from rattling. It actually rattles much less than I thought it would. With this enclosure I have about 663 cubic inches inside of it, the sub says it needs at least 691 for a sealed box, so I stuffed it with loose polyfil to help with that as well. I'd much rather have the tub be slightly smaller than larger, and the difference isn't really enough to cause problems.... I hope. lol. Also everything is sealed over with black silicone too.Now, I also wanted, along with my full cargo space, to keep my spare tire AND be able to get it out when I need it without a lot of hassle. So I ran the wiring from under the enlosure over to the right, where I wired the sub into a stereo post connection thing I got from radio shack. The amplifier is under the drivers seat, so the wiring comes back under the passengers seat, and out right there where it goes to the posts I installed.Now, I explained that horribly but a picture is worth a thousand words so here's what you guys want anyway. I'll get pics of the underside later, I forgot all about that.The floor: Notice the floor is bowed a little bit, that's from the foam "bumpers" I have put underneath it to keep it from rattling, I will get around to fine tuning that next week probably to remove the bow in the floor. Floor opened Closer up on sub, Need to go back around with black silicon, I had to peel it off when I cranked the face of the enclosure down into position. Where the wiring enters Closer up on connection

Looks nice! Did you do anything to add rigidity to the plastic tub where the woofer mounts?Also a tip you should line the jack components with a thin fabric to keep them from vibrating. When I used the tub that was a huge issue hearing the jack components.Aron

Very nice...you planning to cut through that plastic floor that lays over your sub at all? Maybe cover it with some clear plexi? Either way nice work! I am looking to do the same thing eventually and was trying to figure out how to pull it off and keep the spare. I may need your help in the future

I'm going to go through all the jack stuff when I track down all the rattles. There's only two or three that I've noticed so far.As for the floor I don't plan on cutting into it, I was thinking of maybe drilling holes into the floor above the speaker to let sound and air escape from under the door more easily, then I would put a cargo carpet over it to hide the holes. I really want it to be completely invisible though and retain all functionality of having the cargo area.I was considering adding supports to the tub, but with it being a cylinder (a circle is the strongest shape possible), with a good sized steel plate in the bottom, and a solid plastic board for the top rigidity doesn't seem to be an issue.After I get everything cleaned up I'll put the aluminum "punch" trim ring around the sub too.

Looks great, congratz... A few things... You'll never realize the subs full potential with the hard cover over it... Even drilling holes won't full realize it's potential, it just moves to much air for that... The air velocity through the small holes will increase exponentially and effectively over damp the sub... (like a overly small enclosure)You would be far better off cutting a 11" hole over the sub and fashioning some sort of flush mount grill... Expanded steel is good for this.. The plastic tub.. it's flexing.. it's minor, but it IS flexing... which is a loss in output... (you may not need to worry about it if it's sufficient for you)Other than that, good show man...!!!

I may see about the hole with a grill, but I'd need to get the rear cargo carpet first. I know the tub is flexing, but at about a five inch cylinder that is supported top and bottom, as well as the "skeleton" structure on the outside of it that comes up it a bit, it isn't flexing much. It's got it's compromises in the sound, but there is no free lunch, and I want that cargo area without swapping around a box. It sounds better than I expected. The final part will be to get a smaller amp, for now I'm using the Power Acoustik amp I had in my old car which I picked up real cheap like five years ago. It's a great amp, to my ears, the only problem is that it's too big for where I want to put it.

Quote, originally posted by L5K »I may see about the hole with a grill, but I'd need to get the rear cargo carpet first. I know the tub is flexing, but at about a five inch cylinder that is supported top and bottom, as well as the "skeleton" structure on the outside of it that comes up it a bit, it isn't flexing much. It's got it's compromises in the sound, but there is no free lunch, and I want that cargo area without swapping around a box. It sounds better than I expected. The final part will be to get a smaller amp, for now I'm using the Power Acoustik amp I had in my old car which I picked up real cheap like five years ago. It's a great amp, to my ears, the only problem is that it's too big for where I want to put it.Well, I want you to understand i'm in no way dissin your work, it's uber creative and if it works for you, i'm super happy... I think it's a great set-up, it's exactly what you want.. for that, you get mad props.. especially knowing that you understand the various compromises... The fact that you are getting MORE than expected from it is a testament to that.. I think it's great..

Oh I know you're not dissin it but I felt I should at least clear that up for other people who want to do the same. It sounds infinitely better than without a sub, but not as good as a sub in a "proper" box does.Today I got some felt, and cut out pieces and laid them in to test it. I'm planning on lining the bottom of the floor with the felt so that I don't have to track down all the vibrating surfaces as it will ALL have a layer of felt between it. As a side effect this also seems to take some of the "hollow plastic" noise out of it as well and makes it sound better. I also got pieces cut, and just need to glue them in to take the rattles out of the jack, the arm thing for the jack, and the tire iron. Just laying them in without adhesive has done wonders. There is still a very slight rattle that is almost inaudible as it only happens at higher volumes and certain frequencies. I'm thinking it could possibly be from the plastic panel above the floor that comes out. The one with the pictures of infant car seats on it.

Rattles can be a real pain... hard to localize at times... You might consider a test disc.. Sheffield Labs maks a WONDERFUL test disc called "My Disc" It's got music AND a bunch of different test tones and other tests that can be done to the audio system... It's also got a full Sine Sweep that runs from 5hz (below our hearing range, makes for interesting views of the sub though) up to 30khz.. Running the sine sweep would help a LOT in finding rattles that only show at certain frequencies.. Something to consider... you are on the right track though... and you are taking the proper steps to isolate the rattles... Very good... !!!!

that would be sick cuttin a hole in the plastic floor and addin plexi glass nice idea mayne

Quote, originally posted by Atlantaboy1 »that would be sick cuttin a hole in the plastic floor and addin plexi glass nice idea maynePlexi would be awesome... then get some leds/neons under it to brighten it up I have done the same install & i just ditched the plastic cover & made a new one out of 3/4 MDF I then carpeted it and even made a lift handle and hinged it to hold it in place.. fits nice and snug.. no fluttering.. Also I did the same thing and stuffed poly-wool in around the jack & the hollow cubbys to ensure no "hollow" noises. Still working on a new home for the amps... hey does anyone know if you can just take the factory "MTunez" amp out from under the seat without messing up anything? I one of mine will fit under it if its out ....

Attached files