GenVibe - Community for Pontiac Vibe Enthusiasts

(pics on second page of thread, although the following 6 attachments have better resolution)I drive the front wheels onto a ramp about 4" high. It makes it a lot easier to get under the car. The engine sat for about half and hour after being driven for a while before changing the oil.I take the engine cover off, easier to catch spills!

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The Filter & new o-ring.

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This tab prevents the housing from turning past a certain point in case you don't tighten it properly.

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The strap wrench fits inbetween it and the housing so you don't need to hold it with your fingers. Drain the oil FIRST before you loosen it or you may have a very big mess to deal with!

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Thar Rubber O-ring goes here, don't forget to coat it in oil before you put it on.Edit: DO NOT put the O-ring at the very top of the housing, it goes in the channel at the top of the threads!!! You may end up with a MASSIVE oil leak!!!

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Put the new filter in the cup and reattach. It's seated properly when the rubber strap wrench refuses to turn it anymore. Make sure the tab is in place and refill with oil. I use 5w-20 Mobil 1 Full synthetic (Havn't found 0w-20 at any of the auto parts stores here, I'll have to grab some from Wal-Marx next time I'm stateside!)

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Wow, interesting concept for the oil filter, just the filter medium itself gets changed. I can see lots of advantages for this.

Quote, originally posted by Herb »Wow, interesting concept for the oil filter, just the filter medium itself gets changed. I can see lots of advantages for this.It's pretty common, our bimmer from '84 has a cartridge type filter.

Plus it makes it a lot easier to peel back the layers in the filter and see what you've caught... (filings, dirt...)The first time i changed the oil (at 500kms) the filter had lots of little shiny metal bits from breaking in the engine... there was practically none this time.The Sunfire also has this type of filter but beyond a few models here and there, the spin-on external filter is what I've generally seen being used.

...TOYOTA said they switched to the cartridge filter as part of their "green" image...less stuff to fill the landfills.

Quote, originally posted by Old Tele man »...TOYOTA said they switched to the cartridge filter as part of their "green" image...less stuff to fill the landfills.I always thought that it was cheaper to build a cartrige filter and charge the same price as a spin-on, less material and such.

My '62 Triumph TR4 had a canister with replaceable elements. You could buy conversion kits to use the spin-on type.

what is "2ZR-FE" please? also, have not changed oil yet, is this the oil filter type I will find when I do? i have 2009 vibe with 2.4L. thank you in advance for all help/advice.

The 2zr-fe is the 1.8L engine. The 2.4L is a 2az-fe.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_ZR_ ... ota_engine

thank you.

Quote, originally posted by star_deceiver »I always thought that it was cheaper to build a cartridge filter and charge the same price as a spin-on, less material and such.That certainly would help Toyota's GREEN image - "Green" as in their bottom line.

QUESTION: what's that YELLOW plastic thing sitting in the oil pan next to the paper filter element?

That is the side screw cap for the used oil container, so you can pick it up like a jug and carry it away!

My sisters 1991 Grand Am 2.5L had a cartridge style oil fitler too...

The Sunfire has one as well, except it lifts out of the front.

I contacted Mobil through their website about 0W-20 AFE Advanced Fuel Economy and they provided me with a contact in Burnaby as Im moving there soon, its through Imperial Oil, you know they have a refinery there. P/N 597702

I'll just pick some up at Wal Marx next time I'm stateside.... It'll be cheaper there anyways!

Being a new Vibe owner, I plan to change my own oil/filter. Is 0-20W the recommended synthetic blend for 2010 1.8L?thanks

0w-20 or 5w-20, Synthetic or not...I prefer Synthetic. Just remember to drain the oil BEFORE you remove the filter!!

...drain it (oil) or you'll wear it!

And try explaining to your wife how that giant puddle of oil appeared in the driveway and where all the kitty litter went...

Make sure the tab is in placeMake sure the tab is in place??? I have changed my oil twice now and still cannot figure out what the heck that tab is for? It doesn't prohibit me from taking off the cannister with my oil wrench, and it certainly does NOT act as a means to stop the cannister from "falling off." I simply see no purpose for it. 5w-20 is recommended for the 2009 and 2010 Vibe, although the 0w-20 (essentially watery oil) is also listed on the cap for very cold climates. Unless you are in Nome Alaska, stick with the 5w-20. I think the double listing on the oil cap was a very dumb idea.

Quote, originally posted by Caretaker »Make sure the tab is in placeThe tab is pushed out of the way by the wrench, it's only purpose is to prevent the cap from moving too far out should you forget to tighten it properly (if at all).Quote, originally posted by Caretaker »5w-20 is recommended for the 2009 and 2010 Vibe, although the 0w-20 (essentially watery oil) is also listed on the cap for very cold climates. Unless you are in Nome Alaska, stick with the 5w-20. I think the double listing on the oil cap was a very dumb idea.The double listing was a bad idea but for all intensive purposes, 5w-20 and 0w-20 are practically identical.Mobil 1 5w-20: cSt @ 40ºC - 48.3; cSt @ 100ºC - 8.8; Pour point -47ºCMobil 1 0w-20: cSt @ 40ºC - 45.5; cSt @ 100ºC - 8.6; Pour point -47ºC

Interesting Star Deceiver, thanks for that oil posting. I'm still scratching my noodle over the clip however. My oil filter cap doesn't seem to touch the clip at all, and the clip doesn't get in the way of the plastic "fins" on the side of the outer housing when I screw it back on by hand. While I'm whining, I also don't get why there is a need to change the rubber o ring either. How much wear could possibly be done over the course of 5,000 miles??

It's just one of those " here it is and here's what it does... don't ask how..." That's the info I have on it so...Maybe the rubber ring gets compressed and doesn't return to shape after re-installation especially if you don't drive much and don't change your oil regularly... But they give you one with the filter so it's easy enough to change.

Hello.I hope I'm replying to the fellow who wrote: "The rubber o-ring goes here" and who supplied a picture of the same.I think I've just screwed up. I changed my oil on my 2009 for the first time a few days ago. Today coming home the oil light went on and when I I got home and looked under the car oil was spurting out madly from around the filter.I realize that when I put the filter on I put the o-ring right up against the top of the plastic housing so that it would squeeze against the outer metal rim of the portion of the car that receives the filter.When I look at the picture you have included with your message I see clearly that it should not have been placed here. Trouble is I can't quite make out where you are saying it should be - just that it looks to be about a half inch below the top outer lip of the plastic housing (where I put it). I notice that there is a channel just above the treads on the plastic housing. Is the o-ring to fit in here? Is that the area your picture points to?(And while I'm at it is there a way of measuring how tight one should put the filter cap on?)Hope you can reply. I've got to make sure I put a new filter on correctly so that I don't repeat the near disaster of today.John

I tighten the filter housing as tight as the strap wrench will let me as the strap likes to slip. The O-ring goes in that channel right above the threads, but not to the top of the housing.I've edited the post with that pic!

...your photographic "step-by-step" sequence was excellent--I printed off a copy of every picture--copyrights be damned(ha,ha)....but, one thing I ALWAYS do when attempting something "new" for the first time, is to carefully note (photograph) WHERE everything *IS* on the original component being removed and replaced....has saved my (removed) numerous times.

Quote, originally posted by star_deceiver »I use 5w-20 Mobil 1 Full synthetic (Havn't found 0w-20 at any of the auto parts stores here, I'll have to grab some from Wal-Marx next time I'm stateside!)oh yeah I like this stuff too. You can get five quarts for $22 at walmart. Thats $4.40 a quart. Auto parts stores always charge way too much for this stuff. The other school of thought is that we should all the run the cheapest conventional oil possible to save money because it works just as well.. ehhh but I like the mobile 1.nice tutorial too thanks!

Quote, originally posted by Old Tele man »...your photographic "step-by-step" sequence was excellent--I printed off a copy of every picture--copyrights be damned(ha,ha).I accept cold hard cash as compensation..... or beer! lolQuote, originally posted by vibedrivermatt »You can get five quarts for $22 at walmart. Thats $4.40 a quart.At walmarx here in BC, 5 litres of Mobil 1 5w-20 costs $41 PLUS TAX!!! And as the CDN dollar is close to even with the greenback, someone is pocketing a whack load of cash off this.Mobil 1's never given me a problem and at $22 bucks, I usually grab a couple jugs while I'm down there. Car needs an oil change.... ROAD TRIP!!!!

...is COSTCO in Canada?...here, they have Mobil-1 5W-20 oil for $33 5/6-qts, but (this week) with a $10 off coupon!

Yes we do! I'll have a look next time I'm there but I know that Walmarx sells castrol conventional oil cheaper then Costco so I won't hold my breath.

5 smaller pics. A little less resolution so I left the attachments in the original posts.The O-ring goes in the channel at the top of the threads about half an inch down from the lip of the housing. Do not put the O-ring all the way to the top!!!!!!

Thank's ,Ill be doing my 1st oil change soon since Im on vacation till 12/6

Drove the Vibe to wal-mart to get the oil hot,got home unloaded the groceries,then drove the vibe up on my home made ramps,drained the oil 1st as directed,then tried a couple filter wrenches to get the filter cap off,finally did that.Man,thats a small filter. 2nd phase was to go christmass shoppen & pick up the oil/filter,got GTX 5w/20 & purealator filter at Advance. So far so good,then it started rainen.i'll finish up Tue. The kicker is my son-in law works for tires plus,but when he was over for t-day thay didn't have the filters yet. He comes over 2-night to pick up the grandson,we watch him twice a week,He askes me if i changed the oil yet,thay just got the filters in .BTW,I noticedt heres a flat spot on the groved filter plastic houseing. Just spin the houseing till it hits that spot & the oil just drains.No mess when ya finally spin the entire houseing off

I'll have to try that!

Simple ramp with 5/4x4Notches in the housingChannel where the O-ring goesRing installed

Good pics,you can see where the "o" ring goes & the flat spots on the houseing

Hey star_ did your re-usable canister come with your Vibe. If not, where did you get it... Toyota? It would fit my old gen 1.8L? I read the thread, but I guess I didn't pick up on that. Great tutorial and pictures.

All vehicles with this engine, 2ZR-FE (2009-10 Vibe, Matrix, XD, Corolla. 2010 Prius is similar), have the cartrige style filter.It attaches to the right side of the engine block. I have no idea if you could backward engineer it to fit on the 1ZZHere's the 2ZR-FXE of the 2010 Prius, it has no accesory drive belts and you can see the back of the canister in the lower left.

dumb question time:what size wrench is fits the oil drain plug? one of my sockets went missing and with my luck it'll be the one i need, forcing me to go with a boxed wrench or to fork over a few bucks at the store. i'm going to have to pick up a strap wrench anyways...AutoZone had a special-5 quarts of Valvoline SynPower 5w-20 and a Fram filter for $27+tax. i got 2 changes worth of each, since I've had to work harder than I would have liked to find filters/5w-20 around here.i think i'll take my baby off the dino juice after the holiday weekend,which should be about 7,500 miles (2nd oil change), give or take 200.

14mm (I believe).

star deceiver-many thanks for the photo tutorial, it was very helpful. i gave it a good lookover this morning and then did my first DIY change (on this car) this afternoon. everything was as you pictured. man, i feel bad for the guy who goofed on the O ring-i can see how it could happen since there are no instructions. if you didn't see where it came from, all the way on seems logical...my impressions-the engineers at toyota are idiots and it shows in the design of the filter cover and its location. clearly, the cover is designed to be removed with a strap wrench, but they put the thing in such a position that it's right up against other structural parts, making it impossible to do more than 1/3 a turn with the wrench before repositioning it, which is also a pain because the strap binds up against the oil pan. given the position, i have no idea why toyota didn't just put a nut on the end of the cover so that it could be removed with a socket wrench. also, making the cover out of plastic was incredibly stupid because if the cover is overtightened (which the knuckleheads at the dealer did on mine when they did my car's 1st and only previous oil change), you have to loosen the cover by tapping with a hammer and screwdriver. it's something i hate to do (but had to), even on a metal housing, but on a plastic housing, i was scared as hell that i would shatter or snap the plastic. stupid cheap toyota. for 20 cents more, we all could have had a metal cover. for 21 cents more, we could have had a metal cover with a nut on the end. how environmentally friendly is it to force tens of thousands of people to drive to the store and buy a strap wrench that is made of plastic and rubber and had to be shipped all the way from China?i'm finding so many things on this car that would discourage me from ever buying a toyota product again. their reputation for "quality" and advanced design are proving to be myths every time i turn the key or pick up a wrench.

Quote, originally posted by star_deceiver »14mm (I believe).you were correct!

Quote, originally posted by Zimm »i'm finding so many things on this car that would discourage me from ever buying a toyota product again. their reputation for "quality" and advanced design are proving to be myths every time i turn the key or pick up a wrench.Once you've done it a few times it takes no time at all and the strap wrenching goes quick. But it could be worse, try working on a Volkswagen...