GenVibe - Community for Pontiac Vibe Enthusiasts

I am having trouble removing the rear rotors on my Vibe GT , Not sure if there is a trick or just some beating on them. Help would be great on this issue please.

speaking from rotor experience in general, you probably just need to give them a little beating. AFA the Vibe GT in particular, I don't know since I just have a base, but I don't see why anything would be any different for them than all the others.

although, on my GT, it wasn't an issue. Changed the rotors on my GT a little while back and they came off with just a little tug.

OK, I'm going to ask a stupid question, but do you have your parking brake on?

Sometimes there is 2 extra holes in the rotor, they are threaded, so you can put a bolt in them and physically lift the rotor off of the hub.. I just looked, you should have the holes in the rotor.. If you don't have those holes, the parking brake it not on, then you need a bigger hammer... lol.. If the rotor is lose and hung on something, you need to release the adjuster screw for the parking brake..

The hols or 5/16 - 18

There's a bolt of some sort that screws down the cover for the spare tire in the trunk. This happens to be the exact same size and thread as the two holes in the rear drums. Take the threaded rod from the spare tire lockdown with you to Ace or somewhere that sells bolts and get a pair of them, preferably with hex heads.Those in hand, thread the bolts into the two holes in the face of the drum until they're hand tight. Then take your wrench and turn them one turn alternately until the drum breaks free. Under "obvious but sometimes forgotten", make sure the hand brake is off, and go through the back to the adjustment bolt and back it off a few turns in the event the pads have made "ruts"...I beat the living crap out of my drums until I threatened to screw up the alignment and they wouldn't budge. Had to use the bolt method.But you said "rotor" which implies disc brakes in the rear. In which case, percussive maintenance is probably in order.

wire brush and some wd-40 to help remove the rust, large hammer, air grinder to grind *lightly* off the rust, all options.Also you can try coating it the day before in liquid wrench penetrating oil.

Quote, originally posted by pljenkins »There's a bolt of some sort that screws down the cover for the spare tire in the trunk. This happens to be the exact same size and thread as the two holes in the rear drums. Take the threaded rod from the spare tire lockdown with you to Ace or somewhere that sells bolts and get a pair of them, preferably with hex heads.Those in hand, thread the bolts into the two holes in the face of the drum until they're hand tight. Then take your wrench and turn them one turn alternately until the drum breaks free. Under "obvious but sometimes forgotten", make sure the hand brake is off, and go through the back to the adjustment bolt and back it off a few turns in the event the pads have made "ruts"...I beat the living crap out of my drums until I threatened to screw up the alignment and they wouldn't budge. Had to use the bolt method.But you said "rotor" which implies disc brakes in the rear. In which case, percussive maintenance is probably in order.it is a 5/16 bolt with a thred pitch of 18

5/16" I thought for sure it would be metric

can you please elaborate on the adjusting of the parking brake. I read in a previous post that it is under the center console. is this correct. Secondly how is the center console removed?thanks

Quote, originally posted by matty77 »can you please elaborate on the adjusting of the parking brake. I read in a previous post that it is under the center console. is this correct. Secondly how is the center console removed?thanksremove the center console. there are four 10mm bolts that hold it in place. two under the felt inside the consealed area, two in the very first small compartment under the felt. Once removed there is a small nut under the brake handle that can be tightend up to help remove the slack in the cable. The hand brake should only move 6-8clicks on a decent pull.

THANKS - I couldn't get those rear discs off for nothing. Put in two 5/16 hex bolts, put some torque on them, and "crack" off came the disc's and I got to play hero to my wife. And yes, the bolt that holds the spare tire is the exact size.

I had the same problem. Hit the discs with a mallet for what seemed like forever. Sprayed them with some PB Blaster and let it pentrate for 45 min, then back with the mallet and still nothing. Picked up some 5/16 bolts and in less than a minute got the discs off!