GenVibe - Community for Pontiac Vibe Enthusiasts

Sputnik (yes, the car's name is actually my user name for those not aware) is 5 years old. He has 60,000km on him. He's not sounding so good these days. Kinda sluggish, and today going down a hill, when applying the brake, he kinda made this vibrating noise. Also sometimes recently on the highways it sounds like a helicopter inside the car (windows are closed), which I find very odd. He handles pretty well, just sluggish. Anyway only thing we've ever done are the regularily scheduled oil changes, and tire rotations. I looked in the book for what maintenance to do, but its not all that helpful - just "check this, check that." What does everyone here suggest? Does he need a tune up, and what is a tune up? Sorry for the dumb questions, but I'm not really much of a car person (despite my frequency here! )

Spark plugs for sure. Our cars don't really HAVE spark plug wires, but the connectors can get fried, they need to be examined closely. Air filter, replace. As we really don't have a fuel filter...but we do...it's available as a seperate part. You have to remove the back seat and take the entire fuel sending unit/fuel pump out, the filter if the top section of that assembly. I replaced mine on the '03 at 50K miles, and will be doing the same on the '06. As far as the brakes shimmering, you can have the rotors turned, but I wouldn't, I'd find a good aftermarket set and replaced them (check out tirerack.com's prices for a good brand name and price)....that's about all I can think of right now.......whoops....no it's not....take the air intake off and using carb/choke cleaner clean the butterfly on the throttle bottle.

At the 60k mark,your spark plugs need to be changed.I would also check your transmission fluid if you have an auto.The front rotors sound like they need to be changed and while your at it,the pads too.The helicopter sound maybe the front fascia or inner fenders,as they tend to loose the clips that hold them in place,they are cheap,but for some reason tend to disappear.

engine oil changetranny oil drain/fill or flushspark plugsclean or replace air filterclean MAFrotate tirescheck tire air pressureclean/replace cabin air filterdrain and fill with new coolant

All of what ^^^^ they said... Just adding a little note on the brakes, do you rotate the tires yourself? If so, do you use a torque wrench on the lugs? If not, you really should be. Even torque on the lugs can help prevent warped rotors, i know this from experience. I have a cheap TW i got from like Harborfreight.com for like 20$ and while i wouldn't trust it to rebuild a motor, it's great for getting lugs "about" the same torque. i have 2 different post in the suspension/brake section, that could make for an interesting read for you in that respect. Just to give you a small example, I've had the same set of rotors on my Subaru for 5-6yrs now, DRIVEN HARD(many a mountain road tamed by these rotors. They are cross drilled to and never a problem with warping. It has much to do with lug torque and proper seasoning of the rotors and bedding of the pads...

The helicopter sound you refer to, can you get the sound to change by moving the steering wheel left and right slightly as your are moving? The reason i ask about the sound changing is it's indicative of a bad wheel bearing.

Any chance you've ran any fuel injector cleaner through the car? Cheveron Techtron is the way to go, if you can get it up north.

Quote, originally posted by Sublimewind »All of what ^^^^ they said... Just adding a little note on the brakes, do you rotate the tires yourself? If so, do you use a torque wrench on the lugs? If not, you really should be. Even torque on the lugs can help prevent warped rotors, i know this from experience. So what is the recommended torque for the Vibe?

I believe someone posted 75-76ft/lbs. Check a few posts in the suspension/brake forum... I know it's in there somewhere..

oh yeah injector cleaner! I try to do that every oil change. I still need a torque wrench, but hand tight on my lugs has been working so far.... But I really want a TW bad so I can make sure everything is perfect, specially on spark plugs!

Take a look at Harborfreight.com for a cheap A$$ torque wrench, good for non-critical things, a 1/2" drive TW is NOT what you would use for spark plugs though.. a 3/8" drive is what you would want for that. I'm very unconcerned about spark plug torque, honeslty, if you get them seated and turn them 1/4 turn they should be just fine as they have a crush washer. But, if you want wone, you want to look for something that will do 0-50ft/lbs or something... I think plugs are like 10-15ft/lbs, but i really can't say for sure...

yeah I thought they were around 14lbs for the spark plugs... but its been a while, I just did those by hand too. Ill have to go look a those TW's its always nice to just have one around just in case!

suggest you change pcv valve too.

Bluecrush was talking to me about the pcv (i think) and how to clean it and how it SHOULD make a noise when you shake it....I need to look into that...

Quote, originally posted by kcorona »suggest you change pcv valve too.One thing to remember is that there are 2 different PCV valves for our car.Be sure to get the right one.Quote, originally posted by Sublimewind »The helicopter sound you refer to, can you get the sound to change by moving the steering wheel left and right slightly as your are moving? The reason i ask about the sound changing is it's indicative of a bad wheel bearing. That could def cause that sound too.

There's two pcv valve's? I know about the one near the valve cover, but where's the other one?

Quote, originally posted by ajflan »There's two pcv valve's? I know about the one near the valve cover, but where's the other one?ahahaha,No silly,There's only one on the engine,but there are 2 different types.You will know when you go to buy one.

Just to clarify here, I'm mechanically incompetent and will not be doing any work myself. Its going to the GM service centre near my house. Hopefully in the next couple of weeks.EDIT: Oh, but thanks for all the tips even I'm not sure what they all mean!

May I suggest going to a Toyota dealer instead then.It will cost you much less.

You can, but I prefer going to my dealer.

You may want to swing by the bank first!!!Ski Mask is Optional!! All that required maint. is gonna be a sizeable chunk of change!

Quote, originally posted by zionzr2 »You may want to swing by the bank first!!!Ski Mask is Optional!! All that required maint. is gonna be a sizeable chunk of change!True story

Quote, originally posted by Sputnik »You can, but I prefer going to my dealer. have fun gettin bent over the service counter.... They won't even buy you lunch for that date...

Well, I'm double income no kids (I'm a DINK!), so spending money to pay someone for something I personally either don't want to do, or can't do, doesn't bother me.

Quote, originally posted by Sublimewind »have fun gettin bent over the service counter.... They won't even buy you lunch for that date... I'll get a free coffee! ha!

Quote, originally posted by Sublimewind »a 1/2" drive TW is NOT what you would use for spark plugs though.. a 3/8" drive is what you would want for that. Doh! I was planning on trying that, I've only got a1/2" drive torque wrench, so I thought I could try a 3/8" adapter and stick the plug socket on that. Even if I'm torquing down to a low torque like 15 ft-lbs, the larger wrench will jack something up? Just curious.Anywho, sputnik - good luck with the dealer! Enjoy the free coffee. There's nothing wrong with going back to your brand's dealership for the routine stuff even if it may be more expensive. If the dealer is competent and treats you good, might as well stick with 'em since you know everything will be done right.

Quote, originally posted by ColonelPanic »Doh! I was planning on trying that, I've only got a1/2" drive torque wrench, so I thought I could try a 3/8" adapter and stick the plug socket on that. Even if I'm torquing down to a low torque like 15 ft-lbs, the larger wrench will jack something up? Just curious.Anywho, sputnik - good luck with the dealer! Enjoy the free coffee. There's nothing wrong with going back to your brand's dealership for the routine stuff even if it may be more expensive. If the dealer is competent and treats you good, might as well stick with 'em since you know everything will be done right.I doubt you would hurt anything using a 1/2" drive TW, it's just that they are designed for higher torque figures and may not be very acurate on the very low end of the scale, is all... It's also very easy to over do it with a long wrench, you would be better off, just using the tried and true, snug and add 1/4 turn... But if you want to torque them i would reccomend a 3/8" drive one that only goes up to like 50ft/lbs

Quote, originally posted by Sublimewind »The helicopter sound you refer to, can you get the sound to change by moving the steering wheel left and right slightly as your are moving? The reason i ask about the sound changing is it's indicative of a bad wheel bearing. We heard this noise several times on Friday night. My hubby refers to it as a vibration, I think it sounds like a helicopter or a loud humming noise. I'm pretty sure its wheel/tire based and not engine based, so maybe a wheel bearing. It usually occurs on the 400 series highways (those with a speed limit of over 100km/hr), but sometimes on the regular highways when we're doing close to 100 anyway. I never hear this noise just going back and forth to work. It doesn't necessarily happen when turning the wheel. In fact I think it happens more when going straight. It did happen last weekend, when going down a hill on a curve on a two lane highway. It usually stops after we slow down (or come to a stop). Sputnik is going in to have it looked at on Monday, along with an oil change and other misc things. Yay, birthday prezzie for me! ha!

I have a broken belt in one of my tires which makes a rotation noise at dif. speeds. The broken belt will make a flat spot on the tire which makes the noise. I know it is the tire since the noise moves with tire rotation. I rotate back to front and cross the front to the back. I am pushing 30,000 ( which is good for stock ) on the tires so replacing the tire is not an option until I replace all of them.

Quote, originally posted by Digger »I am pushing 30,000 ( which is good for stock ) on the tires so replacing the tire is not an option until I replace all of them. Well then, I'd say it's time to replace all four tires...if you won't replace some of them, better replace them all because it's not safe to ride on a tire with a broken belt. Even if you have the best brakes in the world, or best handling or anything else, it doesn't matter as the tires are THE most important maintenance item on the car.Don't push them any further - replace them...

Quote, originally posted by engineertwin2 »Well then, I'd say it's time to replace all four tires...if you won't replace some of them, better replace them all because it's not safe to ride on a tire with a broken belt. Even if you have the best brakes in the world, or best handling or anything else, it doesn't matter as the tires are THE most important maintenance item on the car.Don't push them any further - replace them...+1 to engineertwin2Your tread could seperate from the tire and cause severe damage to the car.I had a tread come off a Ford Taurus I was driving down the hwy at 65MPH. it did over $2500 damage to the front of the car. Luckily no one else was involved either.

Quote, originally posted by zionzr2 »+1 to engineertwin2Your tread could seperate from the tire and cause severe damage to the Driver.Fixxed it for you.... Who cares about the car in that type of situation..

Well Sputnik's all fixed up now. Mostly brake work, and other assorted items (some of which are mentioned in this thread) - all told $998 at the end. Happy Birthday to me! HA!

well, that is nice, as least it's safe again, i could have done it all for less than 300... but to each thier own...

Quote, originally posted by Sublimewind »well, that is nice, as least it's safe again, i could have done it all for less than 300... but to each thier own... Or to "her" own as the case may be.Anyway, the time, effort, frustration I would have to even attempt it is worth me shelling out the money to have someone else do it. I have NO patience, and really no mechanical knowledge whatsoever. Nor do I really know anyone who does and those that I do know, don't have the time.

Okay Sputnik isn't all better - now when I'm coming to a stop, I hear what sounds like a rubbing noise from the front wheels - only when coming to a stop - so it must be the brakes. Why would it be making noise? Its a very quiet noise, but sounds like rubbing and rotational... if that makes any sense.

Quote, originally posted by Sputnik »Or to "her" own as the case may be.Anyway, the time, effort, frustration I would have to even attempt it is worth me shelling out the money to have someone else do it. I have NO patience, and really no mechanical knowledge whatsoever. Nor do I really know anyone who does and those that I do know, don't have the time. My bad...

Quote, originally posted by Sputnik »Okay Sputnik isn't all better - now when I'm coming to a stop, I hear what sounds like a rubbing noise from the front wheels - only when coming to a stop - so it must be the brakes. Why would it be making noise? Its a very quiet noise, but sounds like rubbing and rotational... if that makes any sense.Do you feel the "rubbing" in the brake pedal? It could be a warped rotor, i wonder if they used a torque wrench to tighten the lugs, or just ripped them on with an impact wrench? Proper torque on the lugs nuts, can save many brake headaches...

Tonight on the way home the noise had disappeared about 25 minutes into my drive. But it reappeared after I went shopping after dinner.

Took the car in at 7 am this morning. I had it back by 8 am. So what they told me was that there was rust build up on the right rear drum, causing a rubbing noise. So I pick it up and and driving home and what do I hear? The damn noise again! Of course its just pouring rain here (has been for hours) and you can't hear anything really concrete because of the rain... so there's no point in me taking it back again this morning. They won't hear anything. I'm really ticked at this point.

That a dealership for you, i can't stand them myself, that is the BIGGEST reasion i learned everything i know about cars, my BAD expierences with stealerships... I sure wish i was in your area, i could be much more of a help then... any other GenVibe members in your area?

Quote, originally posted by Sublimewind »That a dealership for you, i can't stand them myself, that is the BIGGEST reasion i learned everything i know about cars, my BAD expierences with stealerships... I sure wish i was in your area, i could be much more of a help then... any other GenVibe members in your area? None that I'm aware of really. I just want to know if the noise is something I need to have fixed. I don't know enough about cars to know and I can't describe it to anyone! I think next time I go back (because I am going back and they aren't going to charge me!) I'll take them for a drive and make them listen to it!

That is your best bet, but you know, when you do the noise won't be there... it never fails...

So the rain let up a bit and I'm definitely still hearing it. At first there wasn't any noise and I thought "Okay I imagined it during the downpour." But then it came again. Maybe it is just rusty brakes?

So I'm back from the third trip to the garage. Knock on wood, this time it seems to have been fixed. They heard the noise too when they did the road test (ha! I'm not some crazy woman!). They took it apart and cleaned off all rust and also said some clips were touching the caliper. I didn't hear the noise at all on the way home.

yea!!!!Sometimes its more satisfying that someone else can just understand the issue you are talking about than the issue being fixed!!!Glad it worked out!! Finally!!!After all 3rd times a charm! right?!?