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Front Brake Job
Posted: Sat May 19, 2007 8:21 am
by Vibe_dude
Ok so with 115,000kms on the oems.its time for new set(old ones are about 3/4 done).Got a set of Inroble crossed drilled slotted rotors and a set of there pads.Was just wonderin how many ppl have done there own brakes on the vibe......if so was it hard.any pics of the process would be great or a step by step would rock.One last ?.... Iam not touchin the back brakes......should they be adjusted too.....or are they all right as they are.seem to be work fine.Thx's for any and all input.
http://www.inroble.com/Products/sport_rotors.asp
Re: Front Brake Job (Vibe_dude)
Posted: Sat May 19, 2007 9:53 am
by Raven
It will be the easiest brake job you ever did. No worries Mate.
Posted: Fri May 25, 2007 2:19 am
by Sublimewind
Do you gotta torque wrench? If not, got buy one... nothing great, i got mine for like 20-40$ IIRC... but torquing the lugs can and will help prevent warped rotors... Quote »another tip many don't know, but doubles the time it takes to do the job, IS, you need to seat the pads on the OLD rotors, and you need to get them hella HOT to burn off the phenolic material there bound with... gotta let them cool overnight to, THEN install the rotor and repeat the bedding/seating procedures... This is an EDIT, as doing the above is NOT necessary and this was pointed out to me, where i miss read, i don't know, but i do LEARN from my mistakes... Thank you Phratman... Look here for more info...
http://www.baer.com/# look under the Baer Tech 202 how to guides... it's amazing...
Re: Front Brake Job (Vibe_dude)
Posted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 9:38 pm
by Vibe_dude
Well got them on and wow these bad boys really do work.....all cars should come with cross drill slotted rotors.just so much better.
Attached files
Posted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 9:57 pm
by Sublimewind
Nice..!!Did you happen to follow the bedding/seasioning procedures i listed??? It REALLY makes a difference on the life of the rotors and pads... I've had a set of KVR crossdrilled on my Subaru for 5-6yrs now, after doing that properly... Baware, the slots/crossdrilled WILL chew up pads quicker, just beware of that.... Nice job..
Re: (Sublimewind)
Posted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 10:49 pm
by prathman
Quote, originally posted by Sublimewind »another tip many don't know, but doubles the time it takes to do the job, IS, you need to seat the pads on the OLD rotors ... Look here for more info...
http://www.baer.com/# look under the Baer Tech 202 how to guides... it's amazing... If I'm replacing the rotors the old ones are likely to be warped and/or scored - why would I want to subject the new pads to the old defective rotor surface? Looking at the Baer instructions I don't see any recommendation to use the old rotors. They recommend first doing the "seasoning" process for the rotors and then the "bedding" process for the pads. But I didn't see any indication that these shouldn't be done sequentially using the newly installed pads and rotors.
Re: (prathman)
Posted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 11:58 pm
by Sublimewind
Well Sir,You are correct, and i will edit my posts... I found this...Quote »Note: Never “Bed†pads on rotors, which have not first been “Seasoned.†Always allow a substantial coast down zone when bedding pads that will allow you to safely drive the car to a stop in the event of fade.And this... Quote »By gradually heating the material, the crystalline matrix will reconfigure to relieve these internal stresses. After these stresses are relieved, the rotor is ready to accept the heat of bedding pads. Heating the rotors before they are fully seasoned can result in material deformation due to the unrelieved internal stresses in the material. This deformation may cause a vibration from the brakes. So, thank you for the correction... I can't believe i miss read that in such a way... still thanks... Aaron