GenVibe - Community for Pontiac Vibe Enthusiasts

Do I use Anti-Sieze or not when replacing the plugs? The manual says to use it, but someone once said in a previous post that using anit-sieze just disrupts the ground to the plugs and not to use it. so which way should it be done?

Go by the book, much safer that way.

I haven't used it when I have checked or changed my plugs. Which reminds me, I was wanting to check them again after I took off that Ingition Amp for wear due to the increased spark energy. That is something you will want to check more often with the amp, Tyler.

Quote, originally posted by djb383 »Go by the book, much safer that way.yeah, the book/manual says to use it. but I know others have said no to. so I was just curious. I suppose it is ok to go without it as long as I change the plugs fairly soon. So, Brian, I guess I should be fine to just go without it, since u say I should change the plugs more often now.thanks for the feedback

Let the head cool before removing plugs. Aluminum threads can easily be destroyed if plugs are removed while still hot, especially if no anti-sieze has been used.

Quote, originally posted by tcam »yeah, the book/manual says to use it. but I know others have said no to. so I was just curious. I suppose it is ok to go without it as long as I change the plugs fairly soon. So, Brian, I guess I should be fine to just go without it, since u say I should change the plugs more often now.thanks for the feedback No, I said check them more often not necessarily, change them.And yes common sense says to check/change the plugs when the engine is cold. That is a given.

Quote, originally posted by BlueCrush »No, I said check them more often not necessarily, change them.And yes common sense says to check/change the plugs when the engine is cold. That is a given.lol, ok thanks

You know, I can't tell you if the Vibe 1.8l head is aluminum or cast iron... never bothered to check. However, my other car definitely has aluminum heads. That engine produces an incredible amount of heat, so in order to prevent seized plugs in the head I use anti-seize on the plug threads...never had a ground problem, ever. Can't see it using it doing any harm....be careful and start the plug by hand to prevent cross threading the soft aluminum.

Quote, originally posted by 03Cobra »You know, I can't tell you if the Vibe 1.8l head is aluminum or cast iron... never bothered to check. However, my other car definitely has aluminum heads. That engine produces an incredible amount of heat, so in order to prevent seized plugs in the head I use anti-seize on the plug threads...never had a ground problem, ever. Can't see it using it doing any harm....be careful and start the plug by hand to prevent cross threading the soft aluminum.alright thanks, that makes sense. I keep changin my mind to use anti-sieze or not, but I'm now going to use it, and stick with that decision. lol

I have been changing spark plugs for 16 years and have never once used anti-seize on them. I have never had a problem with a bad ground or being able to remove the spark plugs. Just tighten then the right way--not too tight, not too loose.I know 2 ASE certified mechanics who do use it, though. Take that for what it's worth.

Quote, originally posted by BlueCrush »No, I said check them more often not necessarily, change them.And yes common sense says to check/change the plugs when the engine is cold. That is a given.Common sense, that's somewhat rare these days.

I suspect that antisieze is recommended because the plugs are recommended for 100K mi. Lots of time for some corrosion to stick em tight. If you're checking or changing every 30K or so, you probably don't need it but it couldn't hurt. I really liked the the Denso IK20 in mine.

I would use it. Aluminum and steel chemically react with one an other to form a welding corrosion. Did you ever have to pound a wheel off after 300 mile. The Aluminum rim bonded with the steel hub.

Alright, it seems to me that I would probably be fine either way, but using anit-sieze is just simply the safer way to go. I don't wanna take any risks of having the plug get jammed in the head, so I think I'll spend a few extra minutes and use the anit-sieze

Quote, originally posted by tcam »I think I'll spend a few extra minutes and use the anit-sieze i was quietly hoping you would come to that conclusion.spark plugs do seize in heads. it can happen in less then 30k for sure.for the 2 seconds it takes to put the crap on it is well worth it.go ask your shop what kind of time it takes to get it out if it's stuck.i have never heard of anti-seize disrupting the ground for the plugs... I'm pretty sure it would be made not to interfere.

Like Digger said, aluminium and steel react with each other and WILL seize together. If you can find it use the high temperature nickel anti-seize for spark plugs and exhaust bolts. Also, anti-seize has metal particles in it, so I can't see it causing a bad ground.

yeah, I went ahead and got the anti-sieze, and I was actually trying to change the plugs today when I ran into a problem. The socket that I was trying to use was too short and too narrow to even fit over the plug. so I need to run out to a hardware store tomorrow and find a better fitting socket.

Definitely use the anti-sieze. I didnt use it one time before on an engine, and it was a pain to get the plugs out after only 24K miles, not to mention scary when it didnt feel right.

I use anti-sieze on just about every nut/bolt (unless i am using loc-tite). It also helps to get an accurate torque value. Why would you not use it?

Quote, originally posted by JohnC »Why would you not use it?exactly My only concern at first was that it disrupted the ground to the plugs. (removed) now that I know this isn't true, there really is no reason not to use it.

uh that reminds me i gotta do my plugs too.....

Quote, originally posted by northvibe »uh that reminds me i gotta do my plugs too.....lol, how many miles u at?

just ran up to 47k today...well last night, so im going to oil change, spark plug change and add some injector cleaner today