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I know, dumb question, but what all is required when changing the spark plugs? I know if you don't do it right you can ruin the plugs. I know how to get to the plugs and get them out, just wondering what the steps are to reinstall the new plugs. TIA!

I dunno, putting the new ones in is pretty much the same as taking the old ones out, except in reverse.Probably a good idea to check the gap on the new plugs, but the ones I got were already gapped correctly. I forget what the correct gap is. Some people have said to put antiseize on the threads or they will be hard to get back out later, I didn't, but i didn't have any troubles getting the old ones out.

I didn't put the anti-sieze on mine either, but I haven't tried to take mine out. I think there is a specified torque to tighten them down to, yet another thing I didn't do. Just made sure they were snug w/o overtightening because I didn't have a torque wrench at the time. One thing I've always heard to not do, and I recall seeing a warning sticker on my previous GM cars that had aluminum heads: Do not remove the plugs when the engine is warm! Wait until it cools, then tear into it. I'd guess that the soft metal doesn't take too kindly of something like that when hot. Other than that, yep, install is reverse of removal. Get a good spark plug socket and a really fricken long extension since the plugs are buried deep in these engines. I had bought a cheap "tune up kit" at Advance Auto that came with a passable socket for the job, a ratchet that swivled, and used an extension I had laying around. Seemed to do ok, nothing has shot out of the engine yet. le socket for the job, a ratchet that swivled, and used an extennother thing I didn't do. Just made sure they were snug w/o overtightening because I didn't have a torque wrench at the time. One thing I've always heard to not do, and I recall seeing a warning sticker on my previous GM cars that had aluminum heads: Do not remove the plugs when the engine is warm! Wait until it cools, then tear into it. I'd guess that the soft metal doesn't take too kindly of something like that when hot. Other than that, yep, install is reverse of removal. Get a good spark plug socket and a really fricken long extension since the plugs are buried deep in these engines. I had bought a cheap "tune up kit" at Advance Auto that had a passable socket for the job, a swiveling ratchet, and used an extension I had laying around. Seemed to do ok, it got the job done and nothing has shot out of the engine yet.

Not a dumb question at all.Pull off the plastic cover (2X10MM nuts and 2Xplastic pins)Remove the 4X10MM bolts holding the coli packs downRemove the 2X10MM nuts holding down the wiring harness for the coil packs (#3 coil pack on mine was blocked by the harness)Unscrew your sparkplugs using the smaller (not sure size) plug socket (You will want to use a 2-4" extension)Using a length of tubing (1/4") about 6" long, push the tubing over the top of the plug and pull the plug out of the hole.Swap plug with new one, no need to check gap as the NGK's and Denso's are already gapped. Also DO NOT try to regap your old plug or clean with wire brush. The gapper can bend the center of the iridium plug causing it to no longer fire right and for some reason Denso says to not touch the center with metal. I learned this the hard way two weeks ago, cost me $40 in new plugs.With the new plug in the end of the piece of hose, put the plug back into the hole, using the tube to screw the plug in. When the plug gets snug, just pull the hose and it will slide right off.Tighten your plugs to specs (or until you see two of your tendons in your wrist popping out, .....old VW trick)I have not found any problems with swapping coil packs around, but you never know. So you may want to keep the same coil pack on the same cylinderHope this helpshope this helps

Oh yea, you don’t want to put anti-size or anything on the plug threads. The way I understand it the plug grounds through the threads, anything that breaks that circuit can really screw things up.Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

does anyone know the torque specs for the 2zz-ge?

I see 1ZZ - Torque: 25 NVm (255 kgfVcm, 18 ftVlbf)2ZZ - Torque: 18 NVm (178 kgfVcm, 13 ftVlbf)

thanks Joatmon

anti seize has metallics in it to keep the metal to metal contact. You also do not glob it on, dab your finger and twist the threads through them gently.Also to make sure you are getting the plugs in straight and not damaging threads, twist in reverse first. Yes it sounds weird, but use just the extension (if needed) and sit the plug at the top of the hole. Now turn as if you were taking it out very slowly. It will cath and drop a bit to where it is supposed to start going in, Then you can tighten. always tighten by hand first then go back and do all the others with the ratchet.When tightening w/o a torque wrench, rule of thumb (tighten until it stops from normal pressure. Then hadd a 1/4 turn on the ratchet)

eek I hope I lined up the threads right.

Yup, never pull them out of an aluminum head when hot. I did that to my '96 Grand Prix and totally screwed up the front head. I had to do the Jedi Monkey Grip to MAKE it get back in there. Trust me, you will know if you're cross-threading the plug, it will not go in by hand at all - then, if you're like me, you use brute force to fix the problem! Killed the car, but I got a Vibe out of the deal, so I'm happy...

I'm adding this thread to the How To Maint. Index unless someone has a more detailed Spark plug change write up.

One tip I have found worthwhile is to use a rubber hose to set the plugs into the threads - then tighten with a torque wrench to finish. The rubber hose lets the plug 'find' the threads because its flexible. If the plug is not seating properly, you can't force it with a rubber hose and you can just back it out and try it again. You have more feedback through the rubber hose than you do a socket wrench.

MMMM Déja vu.