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Folks with electrical wiring manuals: I regret not getting the factory alarm now that I am looking at installing this unit. http://206.47.191.115/prostart/proguard3.html The wiring diagram is at http://206.47.191.115/prostart/guides/S ... 020813.pdf Could someone advise me what colors, harness, locations etc. for the wires needed for this alarm. I know this is a lot to ask. Did I mention I need to know whether this is possible in the next day or so?Thanks in advance. Ken.

What specific wires do you need to know? I could try and look them up in the Service Manual.

he will need:- parking light- 12v from battery (usually a big red wire)- 12v from ignition- lock/unlock wire (from the key, not the door button)- door pin switch- dome light- horn

Thanks Scott! Have meter will travel, I will do this install in Florida.Ben said his installer went in the steering harness and the driver's kick panel but there must be a real maze there. The ones that trouble me are...1. RED (+) 12 V POWER INPUTConnect to the +12 V power feeding wire at the Ignitionharness of the vehicle. The source wire should have +12 Vwhen the Ignition Key is out of the ignition switch. Could I tap in to any circuit that is live all the time? Should it be at the Ignition Harness strictly? 2. YELLOW (+) IGNITION INPUTConnect to the main Ignition wire of the vehicle. The sourcewire must have power when the Key is in the IGNITION ON(RUN) and CRANK positions.. Could I tap in to any circuit that is live when the car is running or is there other circuit I should look for? Should it be at the Ignition Harness strictly? 3. BROWN (–) LOCK 500 mA programmable 3/4-sec. or 3.5-sec. negative LOCK output.&GREEN (–) UNLOCK 500 mA programmable 3/4-sec., 3.5-sec. or double-pulse 1/4-sec. negative UNLOCK output. Ben suggested this lead should be in the from the driver's door outside lock (tumbler) He said the leads were in the kick panel to the left of the driver's foot well. 4. WHITE /BLACK(–) DOOR TRIGGER INPUTConnect to the wire testing ground with a Door open. Note:this wire should monitor all the Doors – the driver’s door isnot enough! Hmmm the little light on the dash must appear somewhere? Any other suggestions? 5.ORANGE/ BLACK (+) DOOR TRIGGER INPUTConnect to the circuit of the car giving +12 V when a Door isopen (usually the dome-light circuit). Where might the dome light show up before it hits the roof? 6. YELLOW LIGHT OUTPUTmust be connected on the vehicle to the Parking Light wiretesting negative when the light switch is in the ON position. I think I can find this one ok under the hood, but does it show up under the dash from the switch Big thank you for looking into this. Ken.

The best way to make a good jod is to take all the wiring from the same place (under the steering wheel and the kickpad as exemple) to avoit wiring going at to much different places far away from one to each other. Also, it make a better works and it does not look like a bunch of spagetti going anywhere.quote:1. Could I tap in to any circuit that is live all the time? Should it be at the Ignition Harness strictly? You can take the +12v anywhere in the car. It just need to be a constant 12v from the batterie.quote:2. Connect to the main Ignition wire of the vehicle. The sourcewire must have power when the Key is in the IGNITION ON(RUN) and CRANK positions.. Could I tap in to any circuit that is live when the car is running or is there other circuit I should look for? Should it be at the Ignition Harness strictly? You can tipe it anywhere you want, as soon it is an ignition. Be carefull, yoiur Vibe has 2 ignitions. The fan and temp control are not on the same ignition as the radio. quote:BROWN (–) LOCK 500 mA programmable 3/4-sec. or 3.5-sec. negative LOCK output.&GREEN (–) UNLOCK 500 mA programmable 3/4-sec., 3.5-sec. or double-pulse 1/4-sec. negative UNLOCK output. Ben suggested this lead should be in the from the driver's door outside lock (tumbler) He said the leads were in the kick panel to the left of the driver's foot well. Trust me, they are here. They are in the bunch of wire coming out form the door.quote:WHITE /BLACK(–) DOOR TRIGGER INPUTConnect to the wire testing ground with a Door open. Note:this wire should monitor all the Doors – the driver’s door isnot enough! Hmmm the little light on the dash must appear somewhere? Any other suggestions? This wire is also in the kickpad. Check if your getting a groud while another door then the driver`s one is open. Getting this trigger from the cluster in the dash will be hard to do.quote:5.ORANGE/ BLACK (+) DOOR TRIGGER INPUTConnect to the circuit of the car giving +12 V when a Door isopen (usually the dome-light circuit). Where might the dome light show up before it hits the roof? If I remember, this wire is under the plastic, on the A pilar, driver side.quote:6. YELLOW LIGHT OUTPUTmust be connected on the vehicle to the Parking Light wiretesting negative when the light switch is in the ON position. I think I can find this one ok under the hood, but does it show up under the dash from the switch This wire is also in the kickpad. All you need is either under the steering wheel or the kickpad.

put your led right between the hazard and rear defrost, it can been seen from all angles if you put it there. put your valet switch right beside the dash dimmer.( so obvious of a place that a thief wont look)make sure your bat back up has a lock to turn it on and off, dont forget to use a quality instant trigger hood pin switch

quote:put your led right between the hazard and rear defrost, it can been seen from all angles if you put it there. If you want, you can put 1 led in each head light. It looks amazing!!!

Cool ideas. Thanks. Keep em coming. So Ben, in the absense of a shop manual your buddy just tested wires until it gave him the signal he wanted to see?

If you are still having trouble with a wiring diagram, email me and I'll send you what I have. I have a database of almost every vehicle on the road. n2sound@earthlink.net ( I'll also try to post a version here, at a later date.) www.sound-experience.com

quote:Cool ideas. Thanks. Keep em coming. So Ben, in the absense of a shop manual your buddy just tested wires until it gave him the signal he wanted to see?Yep. Just did it with a test light. Red for positive, green for negative. I have to tell you my buddy makes that kind of job every day. So he is use to this. To test the wire, use an x-acto, put your tester probe on the blade and then gently cut the plastic only.

Here is a wire listing for an alarm instalation. As with any type of electrical installation - test each wire before you connect anything.

Attached files 2003PontiacVibe.xls (17 KB) 

Nice info. Now we won't have to test wire 1 by one to find it. But it is always more safe to test it before doing the connection, just to be sure.

quote:Here is a wire listing for an alarm instalation. As with any type of electrical installation - test each wire before you connect anything.Big thanks for posting the wiring connections! Wish I had them in Florida. Guess I needed that Diode. The value from the door is 500mv and the alarm is 6V (I think that is what it was).Anyway folks. I found all the leads in Florida myself, but because the door locks connections needed that diode, I stood down after about 8 hours. I insalled the led on the dash between the rear window defroster and 4 way flasher buttons and the valet switch on the left of the steering wheel.So I brought the car back to Canadian Tire and their pro-start fellow finished the job.However......He hooked up the locks to the inside door button. Guess what, intermittent unlock failures. So back I go. Also the hatch button doesn't work. GRRR! Wished I had got the factory system!

quote:However......He hooked up the locks to the inside door button. Guess what, intermittent unlock failures. So back I go. Also the hatch button doesn't work. GRRR! Wished I had got the factory system! He took the easy way, but not to good way. Your not the first one who had this trouble and you won't be the last.For the hatch, on my alarm, I have to hold the hatch botton for a good 3 secs, same as factory hatch button.

quote:For the hatch, on my alarm, I have to hold the hatch botton for a good 3 secs, same as factory hatch button.Tried that. If it wasn't -20 C I would check his work. Will bring it back tomorrow.

May be he just haven't plugged it

Have that file in anything else besides Excel, which I dont have....

quote:Have that file in anything else besides Excel, which I dont have....Funny. I had a thought that someone wouldn't have Excel and request it in something else. How cosmic!

Attached files

Thanks!

quote:Thanks! Thank you for thanking me. I'll send you the bill for the file conversion and posting. just kidding I am pleased to report that the install is complete. It works ok fine. I don't find the siren overly loud however, I may consider an upgrade as I don't know if I would hear it in the house without hooking up a microphone to monitor it (holy radio shack geek batman). They didn't hook up the glass hatch, which I rarely use. It is on the list for the summer.I have to get used to the active locks, I got locked out once allready. Not funny when the wind chill is at -40.Thanks to all for the support, especially Ben.

I'm always happy to help.